Cherokee :: 2002 Fitting On Top Of Pump With Clip Bracket Is Leaking
Dec 3, 2010
I have a 2002 Jeep GC with the 4.7 v8 84k miles.
I noticed that the fitting on top of the pump with the clip bracket is leaking I removed the clip and tightened the nut/fitting. Moved just a bit. The hose is loose in there and I can pull it up and down like I said it's loose. It's weeping PS fluid. Is this suppose to be loose or is there an o ring inside the fitting? I'd like to get this fixed I before it gets too cold out.
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I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee which I bought used. Last oil change they told me that the power steering pump was leaking. The leak was not enough to be seen, but it did seem to make some noise every once in a while so I took it in to get a new power steering pump at the dealer. Two days after they put the new pump in, power steering fluid was pouring out on the driveway, it was a really big puddle of fluid. I had to put new fluid in to drive it five miles back to the dealer. They said that it needed a new line, they were not sure why it needed a new line, they guessed because of the high mileage, 164,000 miles.
I told them that my Mercury has 287,000 miles on it and has never had the power steering pump replaced or the line either. I have driven most every car I ever owned 300,000 miles and have never replaced a power steering pump or line. But anyway, when the Jeep was supposed to be ready, they told me that the new line blew up spraying fluid all over the shop as soon as they started the Jeep and they had to get new parts so it would take another day or two. My question is what caused the new line to blow? My thinking is there must have been something wrong with the new pump or with the installation, somehow it was outputting too much pressure, anything that could blow a new line, would blow the old line.
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I drive a 1998 Jeep Cherokee 4x4. I lifted it with a Rubicon Express 3.5" lift and had some drive line vibrations. So, I decided to purchase a slip yoke eliminator and use a rebuilt front drive shaft for the rear. I also starting having steering issues. The pump was leaking and the gear box was shot. Other than it leaking PS fluid all of the time, it wasn't a huge issue and was steering perfectly fine. I had a friend install the SYE, new steering pump and gear box in the same day.
When I drove away, there was a slight rumble from the rebuilt drive shaft and my steering was all screwed up. I could barely turn into a parking space. U-turns were completely out of the question. I assumed the issue was that the new gear box was off center and have been waiting for my friend to have the time to redo the job.
In the mean time, I decided to investigate the rumbling drive shaft on my own. So I removed the front driveshaft and swapped it with the rear. Problem solved! The rumble is gone! I am going to rebuild a different drive shaft for the rear and in the meantime, drive without a front driveshaft. Interestingly, my steering issue has completely disappeared. I can now do tight u-turns and park without a single issue. What the heck is causing the issue?
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I have an 2002 which I bought new. It's got low millage, just over 92,000. I took it into the dealer for a free state inspection and was told that the water pump is leaking. Given the age I'm not too surprised although I don't know what the reliability is like on that part.
I want to verify myself that the water pump is actually leaking before having it replaced but don't know where it is or what to look for. Googling hasn't been too useful - I get lots of hits about the inverter pump, not the water pump.
I have not seen any signs of leaking on the ground under the car. There was no mention of the water pump leaking when I took it to the dealer at 90,000 for an oil change, with my original service advisor.
Is the water pump something that I can fairly easily inspect? Where do I find it and what do I look for?
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I decided to install a trans cooler since I was servicing the trans and got the pan dropped anyway. But when I cracked open the trans cooler connector(which is totally unnecessary and should be avoided completed), I noticed that I broke the trans cooler connector fitting to the radiator and now the coolant leaks badly from around the fitting. What are my options other than replacing the radiator? Would some liquid metal treatment do the magic? Or is there a way to remove and replace the fitting(I am not sure this would be possible since it looked like the fitting was welded to the radiator)?
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So I had a stuck caliper on the driver rear side. I pushed the piston back and checked everything to make sure all was in working order. After some though and reading about the calipers getting stuck which old brake lines, I decided to upgrade the line with the Russell stainless steal lines.
I got all the lines put in but I seem to have fluid leaking on the passenger side fitting which I can't seem to get to stop. I put the old line back in but it is still leaking. I am not sure what I need to do or check to get it to stop. It seems to be leaking from the thread area. I checked the fittings and they don't look cross threaded so I don't understand why it may be happening.
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I have a pair of Santa Monica rims on a 2002 2.0l jetta and the ones in the front just don't fit perfectly. The hub seems to not come far out enough for them to stay on it and my steering wheel starts to shake at around 60 mph. I currently have the wheels off for winter but I'd like to know what to do before spring rolls in.
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I have a 03 Solara with the 1MZ that has had the engine replaced with a 02 camry 1MZ. I bought it as a project, and have everything worked out, but I've run into a problem that I need solving. The power steering adjustment bracket is different between the two cars, due to the T-belt tensioner it doesn't have a stud to mount it too. It has the tensioner at a angle, not straight up and down.
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After my 95 GCL wouldn't start and was towed to Jeep dealership, the problem was diagnosed has the fuel pump. I went to pick up my Jeep. Started and ran beautifully..but I noticed the air bag light was on, and wasn't that way before it wouldn't start. Went back into dealership and told'em..they told me nothing they did would have any bearing on the air bag or the dash warning light. What could have happened to cause this problem? I have re-booted the electrical system (more than once) by disconnecting the battery.
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Vehicle is an '86 Comanche 2.5L. Tested the battery at standing and charging, came to 12.8 standing and 14.7 charging. The alternator relay clicks, though that doesn't necessarily mean it's in good working order.
Any electrical load applied; headlights, taillights, hazards, blinkers, etc. kill the engine.
The clutch master cylinder is leaking onto the fuse box, though I moved it as best I could as I don't have the funds for a new master cylinder right now and I'm not sure which fuses, capacitors, and relays do what on the fuse box as the writing is barely noticeable.
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I have a transmission cooler attached to my transmission. The lines that connect it are leaking around the crimp fittings. I figured if i just cut the fittings off and used 3/8 fuel line, would i be ok. I am afraid that i might get some air into the lines and mess my transmission up...
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My 2001 jeep cherokee sport had a transfer case boot replaced a few months ago where the "oil spinner?" is near the rear portion. Before that went out i had periodic noise that i narrowed down to the transfer case using a mechanics stethoscope. Now i have a cluncking noise with gear grinding sounds periodically between 15-35 mph. I have annecdotal evidence from another forum that it may be the oil pump in the transfere case related to a TSB, yet i cannot find this TSB. Am i on the right track? It appears that i can get an oil pump for $60 but i have to consider dropping the case myself and pulling it apart.
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The passenger side of my jeep accumulates water when it rains. (leaking Sunroof) I remove the water as soon as possible, however Lately it has developed problems starting. There is a clicking sound that is coming from under the glove compartment or maybe the fuse box in the same area. Is it possible that the fuse box could be causing the shortage and my next question is can this problem detected/ corrected, by rewiring entire box or damaged wires? I love my Black Beauty, very little problems and only 112, 000 miles.
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My wife's 2002 Jeep GC has just started having the problem of stalling at speed. Happens without warning and will start back up with out any signs of trouble. No CEL. Car has a 6 cylinder with 130k miles and is well maintained. Have been reading around this forum and have seen a few people post similar issues. I will look at the connection at the ECU tomorrow. Is this a common area of trouble?
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I learned today there are at least two water pumps in my 2006 Prius, and that one of them is leaking. I had the recall done for the electric motor water pump in November. Now, during my scheduled maintenance, they tell me my second water pump has been leaking (slowly). My car has 132,000 miles.
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A little less than a year ago I decided to change the timing belt & water pump on my then 61k miles '05 V8. I bought the BlauParts timing belt kit and rented the tools from them also. The install went without a hitch, the old water pump gasket came off nice and clean and I installed the new water pump gasket without any RTV as per the instructions.
A couple of weeks ago the Phaeton hit 65k miles so I did an oil change and while I had the belly pan off I noticed a small whitish pink spot on the belly pan, right below the crankshaft pulley. Looking closer I found coolant traces that came from the water pump area. I cleaned it all up and decided to drive it for a few weeks to see if it's an actual ongoing leak or if that was maybe just an old leak that might have happened just after the install. Unfortunately it's an actual leak ..
First I thought maybe it's leaking out at the gasket but closer investigation shows that the leak is actually right below the pulley at the bottom of what looks like a freeze plug at the front of the water pump. Is this a common area for a leak with this type of water pump? It's only been installed for 11 months and 4,500 miles. Btw, the pump in the kit is a Saleri model GD42107.
I'm really bummed about this because it's a lot of work to swap a water pump out and I'd hate going thru all that work again (and having to rent the tools again). Question is, can I swap the water pump out without putting the front bumper into the service position? From what I recall the only clearance issue might be finding a puller that is short enough to pop off the camshaft sprockets with the radiator that close.
Here are a few photos from when I found the leak:
This was after a 200 mile trip, fresh coolant:
This is were the leak is coming from:
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I just got back from the dealer and was told my water pump was leaking. I was told it was a small leak and that it could only be seen by lifting the car. I opened the hood and noticed some pink crusty looking thing on what i believed to be the water pump. I took some pictures of the water pump, the radiator and overflow level. If you look closely you can see some of the pink crusty stuff around the pump. I poked it with a pencil and it broke apart pretty easy.
First of all if that pink crusty stuff is anything i should worry about? Also if the levels of the fluid in the radiator/overflow tank are good? Is there another sure way i can tell that i even have a water pump leak? I searched around the forum and it looks like the hardest part about replacing the water pump is getting the air out of the system and that the dealer quote is a rip-off.
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my 2007 Camry LE I4 and I got an oil change at the dealer today. He tried to tell me my water pump was leaking and needed replacement.
Offered me a deal of "%50 off the price for $500" which I think is ridiculous. Took it to a family friend that is a mechanic and he said $266 to replace the whole thing.
Dealer said they would do a price match but I'm not sure what to do.
They said it would make it to Tennessee and back because it's in its infant stage.
My question is, when I refilled my low antifreeze, I accidentally overfilled a lot past the line. Would this have anything to do with this issue?
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I was hearing some sounds from my engine and opened up the timing covers to determine where the sound was coming from. It sounds exactly like the Sienna with the same 3MZ engine in this video: YouTube ....
While I didn't find the source of the noise, I did find that my water-pump is leaking. My question is, is this water-pump leaking bad enough to be replaced? I do not notice any coolant loss and never had the need to top up.
It appears from this last photo that the pump is leaking through its pulley shaft and not at the interface with the engine:
The timing belt and water-pump were changed 3 years ago with the Gates timing belt kit from RockAuto. The pump at the time didn't look that great quality in its casting compared to an Aisin pump.
I could not feel any play or hear any abnormal sounds from the pump while it was running with the timing covers off.
This is on my 2005 Lexus ES330 with the 3MZ-FE 3.3L V6 engine, same motor as the Gen 5 Camry SE V6.
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My ICE failed to start on a wooded forest road -- after the car had sat under a fir tree for a day or three it ended up starting and all the warning lights went away. I ended up taking it to the dealer though and while they replaced a leaking water pump, never found any cause for the ICE failure.
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I replaced my timing belt, tensioner and water pump last weekend because I noticed I was leaking coolant from the water pump. The other day I popped my hood after driving and notice the reservoir bubbling a little bit because it sounded like the coolant was boiling and the line coming into the top of the reservoir felt hotter than normal. I opened the cap slowly and never heard any pressure release. I figured it was air in the line somewhere so I tried to work the air out. It sounded like the air came out and I took it for a drive and I finally heard pressure release after 3 different attempts. I opened the cap later when it was cool and noticed that the coolant was still at the original level.
Then the next day I was driving and came to a stop and noticed white smoke coming out when I gave it gas. It still drove fine though. I pulled over and opened the cap slowly but didn't hear any pressure release. I put in a little bit of radiator sealant and it seemed to do the trick.
The car has never overheated and there's no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. The heat also seems to be working correctly and my fans come.
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