I have a 2000 jeep grand cherokee that yesterday the key got stuck in the ignition and i cannot remove it. At the same time i used to have to press the brake to shift from park to any gear now it just moves freely without using the brake.
View 14 RepliesI have tried all the tricks on the internet and still can't get the key unlocked, so I am ready to just replace the part. Is this something my son can do or is it very complicated?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee (sport, six cylinder, 4WD) that won't start occasionally. 98% of the time, it starts up without problem. When it doesn't work the scenario is: put the key in, dash lights up, begin to turn the ignition switch, and suddenly the whole system looses power - no lights on he dash and of course, no cranking of the engine. If I try again immediately, I either get nothing or maybe power until I start to turn the key. If I wait ~5 minutes and try again, it fires right up. This has happened in various weather conditions.
Another problem that might be related is that about 40% of the time, it cranks but won't start in PARK. If I switch to NEUTRAL and try again, it fires right up.
My Jeep will not start. I can put the keys in the ignition and try to start it and nothing will happen. No sounds, clicking, nothing. The battery is fine, I replaced it with a new one, made sure it was charged and nothing happens when I try to crank it. The interior lights dont come on when I open the door but if i turn them on, they come on but they are very dim. Automatics locks dont work, horn doesnt work. I tried to jump start it with the new battery in with my other car. It tried to turn over but wont come on. It just sounds like the battery is dead when I try to turn it over. The vehicle in question is a 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo.
View 5 RepliesI live on a boat access only island, so desperate. This jeep has over 230,000 km on it. Runs well, but this year started this thing where it won't start first time crank, but always starts second or third go. Bought new battery last year, so doesn't seem to be that kind of issue.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 Jeep Liberty Sport. The key is stuck in the ignition. It will still start, but when I go to turn, it's like the key doesn't want to release those last few steps. Which is as safety issue because my car is sitting ready to be stolen. When I called the dealer they wanted to charge me, just to figure out what is going on with it plus labor and parts to fix it.
This is a known issue with the '06 Jeeps and Chrysler is not wanting to do anything about it. At this point, I just need the key out of the ignition. The dealer said they would have to pull the ignition system apart to get the key out which would cause the car not run at all. We tried tapping the key to get it to release and it hasn't done it yet. It did this once before and we where able to jiggle the key and it released but it is not working now.
Again it is a 2006 Jeep Liberty v6 3.7 Liter Engine it is now sitting at about 78000 miles happened the first time at about 50-55000 miles.
This past week when I went to leave work my jeep would not start. It would turn over once, and then die....but if I kept my foot on the gas and kept the RPM's up it stayed running. So, I drove it home with one foot on the gas and one on the brake so it wouldn't stall out on the road. The next 2 days the same thing happened when I went to leave work. It starts fine the rest of the time, even first thing in the morning when it's cold..
View 1 RepliesLast fall I had my mechanic replace the broken air compressor on my 2000 Jeep Cherokee with a by pass. I didn't have money to replace it at the time and I still don't. I want to pick up one at a junk yard. How to do this? Where and how to learn more about maintaining and repairing my vehicle.
View 14 RepliesI have an '89 Jeep Cherokee and it idles way to high. In park it idles at from 1500-3000 after being warmed up. In drive it idles at 1300-1500. It idles at 2000 at 35 mph. We've replaced the O2 censor, the throttle positioning censor, the coolant temperature sensor, and a few other parts. None of this worked.
View 14 RepliesIn the really cold weather after I start my Jeep and it goes in Drive and it's driven for several miles when I go to put it back into Park the shifter gets hung up. It will go into all of the other gears except for Park. If I wait a while it goes back in but it can still feel like it's not smooth.
View 2 Replies2000 jeep cherokee brake lights will not work.changed the bulbs, brake switch, checked fuses, ripped the effin panels out and checked wires and grounds, ripped up rugs found the mouse nest-no mouse, no chews in wires. the parking lights work, hazard lights work?
View 2 RepliesEngine shutdown then starts after a few minutes....
Jeep cherokee 4.8L 2000 .....
My 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo won't start...It cranks strong but won't turn over..I can hear my Fuel Pump kick on from the back of the Vehicle but it won't kick on listening from the engine compartment??I checked all fuses.I had a tune up a couple of months ago..My check engine light was on before the tune up and my mechanic said that the tune up corrected the problem the car was coding out... I've been told to check the ALARM by turning the alarm on and off and also unlocking the car Via the driver door.. This didn't work.. I've been told to check the Fuel cut off switch(RESET BUTTON) for my make and year but can't seem to locate it...
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000, Jeep Cherokee 4.0L. The check engine light, keeps coming on, and the scan tool, shows P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303. Misfires in #1, 2 & 3 cylinder.
I replaced the Coil Pack & all spark plugs with genuine jeep parts from the dealer. What might be wrong or other things to check?
I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L with about 180,000 miles on it. I'm currently in the middle of a road trip, and today my car's been stuttering as I've started it up. After the car sits idle for a while, it stutters as I turn the key ("chug-chug-chug-chug-chu-chu-chu-chu-fail" is about how it goes). When I take the keys out and put them in again for another shot, it manages to start on the second or third try.
It runs OK once the engine gets going, and after I've been driving for a while I can turn it off and on again, without any problem. My main questions are: (1) Is this likely an issue with the starter, alternator, or something completely different? and (2) just how serious is it? If I can get the car running can I make it another ~1500 miles, or should I try to find a dealership before making it back home?
Brooklyn mechanic says "every Jeep Cherokee 2000 6 cyl. 4x4 has this problem--number 3 cylinder mis-fires because it can get too hot". When I return from the country to the city, unload Jeep at the apartment, then, after about 15 minutes, re-start Jeep, it bucks and rumbles and misfires with no power from motor. I pump the gas pedal, and after about a minute it settles down.
Country mechanic has done smoke tests, looked all over for any compression leak, replaced gas cap, put insulation tape over #3 cylinder, and reported that this problem is in the "data bank" of Cherokee problems, where ever that data bank is. The question is, can one live with this problem, or will it cause more problems? Why does the motor settle down after pumping the gas pedal for about a minute? I've had the starter coil replaced recently, as I was told it can get fried from too much mis-firing.
My wife's 2000 Jeep Cherokee has a failing A/C system. Last year it was blowing warm air in the middle of the summer so I took it to a local mechanic who recharged the freon and it was fine through the rest of the summer. This year it is blowing warm again so we took it in for another recharge and it only lasted a few days. The mechanic said there is a leak at the evaporator coil(?) He said the entire dash needs to be removed to repair and it would run about $1000 to fix. This seems a bit steep. Any thoughts or experience with this issue?
View 1 RepliesJeep 2000 Cherokee
So I have this thumping noise, almost sounds like something is loose.The noise occurs for a few seconds when I accelerate from a dead stop and then goes away, it returns when I slow down and almost come to a complete stop.The noise also goes away when I put her into 4wd.The thump/rattle sounds like it is coming from the center counsel area and directly under the floor board in the driver seat.My car changes gears smoothly up and down while driving.
I was told it might be a transfer case problem and that it might need to be rebuilt, which makes me worry.
2000 Jeep Cherokee Classic 4.0L, in Palo Alto, CA.
My air conditioner clutch stops engaging after driving in hot weather.
In hot weather (>80 degrees), when I first turn on the AC it blows nice and cold for up to 30 minutes, after which it gradually gets warmer and then hot air comes out. If I leave the AC on when it is blowing hot air, it will suddenly blow cold again (sometimes it takes a couple minutes for it to work again, sometimes it takes 30 minutes). Then the cycle repeats.The AC seems to be dependent on outside temperature: on very hot days ~95 degrees the AC will only work for ~5 minutes before blowing hot, 80 degree days the AC works longer, limited testing in cooler weather (at night ~60 degrees) AC always blows cold. When it is blowing hot air, the clutch on the compressor hasn’t engaged. When the AC is blowing cold, the clutch engages/disengages normally depending on how you set the temperature. I replaced the low pressure switch, did not change AC function. I recharged the AC, did not change AC function.Engine temperature reading always in normal range <210 degrees. Heater is working normally.
I’m pretty sure the clutch is getting the signals to engage. When the AC is working normally the engine revs slightly higher when AC clutch is engaged.Likewise, when the AC is blowing hot air and the clutch isn’t engaged the engine revs higher. And if I disconnect either the low or the high pressure switches the engine reduces to normal idling.
I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Classic with 214,000 miles on it. Ok......this hasn't happen too often, but scares the CRAP outta me when it does.The other day, it happened twice. Traveling on the highway, 65 - 70 MPH, the car suddenly jolts with a loud BANG!I've had the transmission fluid flushed.Each time I go in for service at my local garage, I have them check ALL the fluids. They never find anything. And are at a loss as to what it could be. They've dropped the pan and found nothing wrong with the transmission. No metal in the fluid. They've check the rear diff. Still nothing. I've gone about a year without the issue until this past Monday when it happened twice. I'm a little paranoid to go faster than 60 - 65 right now.
View 15 RepliesMy Jeep makes a whistling noise in cool/cold weather (~60 degrees and below) that no mechanic has been able to diagnose let alone fix the problem. Here are the details...
-high pitched whistling (can be heard inside and outside the car - very loud) only when temps are about 60 degrees and below-after 5 minutes of the car running-only when RPMs are about 2.0 or below.
However, RPMs can be higher when it is colder out and it will still make the noise-as you push on the accelerator, the noise gradually decreases until RPMs are high enough to completely stop the noise.
When temps are around 50-60 degrees, sometimes the whistling will stop after the car has been at a complete stop for about 1-2 minutes-If you turn off the car and let it sit for 1-2 minutes, then turn it back on, usually the whistling will be gone. It will need to sit in the off position for longer the colder the temps are. This problem has been ongoing for about 4 years.