Cherokee :: 1998 Jeep Started Shaking When Engine Started - Backfire
Apr 3, 2013
My '98 4.0 has 213k on it and the other day I started the engine and the jeep started shaking like crazy. Eventually the engine quit and refused to turn over so I looked under the hood and quickly discovered the problem, a deteriorated rubber elbow on the left manifold. The elbow connects to a threaded breather type valve in the manifold and has a thin piece of black plastic routing to the purge solenoid next to the left fender/air box.
When I removed the rubber elbow from the manifold the engine eventually turned over and idled fine, I then headed to autozone and found replacements of the same diameter, I cut them down a bit to match the length of the originals. Since its been a while I changed the plugs and wires, coil pack along with cap and rotor while I was at it. I replaced one plug and wire at a time to ensure I didn't mix things up, same goes for the cap. Now the jeep seems to take a few more seconds to get started but once it does it idles fine.
Now when I hit the gas hard the jeep will hesitate and then backfire. If I'm smooth on the gas the jeep drives good, whether city or highway. When coming to a stop the jeep will sometimes buck slightly like it wants to cut but doesn't. The backfire sounds like its coming from the air box and oddly enough, my aftermarket radio no longer plays in the accessory position, probably a separate issue. So far there's been no check engine light.
I really need to keep this jeep for a few more months and I would hate to put big money into at this stage.
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I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee with about 105,000 miles. The transmission (or transfer case) recently started to make a clicking sound. It usually happens in 2 wheel drive mode and gets louder as the car warms up. the clicking sound occurs in all gears except park. It also gets faster with car speed. If the car is put into 4 wheel (full time) mode the sound seems to go away or is not as audible. When you shift back in 2 wheel drive mode the clicking sound comes back.
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What would cause a 1999 jeep cherokee 4 liter inline 6 to backfire every now and then.
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I have a problem with my 01 santa fe. When I start it the engine runs rough and when u try to give it gas it pops or backfire through throttle body and air intake tube? Checked the timing belt its ok hasnt slipped.so im stuck at this point.
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I was driving my '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo (6cyl 4.0l 4 wheel drive) on the freeway when it, very suddenly, started shuddering badly. The check engine light came on and then started blinking. I pulled right over and shut it off. I stared it back up and the engine is misfiring badly. I had a code reader with me and it's showing three codes. A random misfire, a cyl #5 misfire, and a Cyl#6 misfire. It will sit and idle (very roughly obviously).
There was no drop in RPMs, oil pressure, voltage or anything when it happened.
I got it home and replaced the distributor cap/rotor, all six spark plugs, and the plug wires but there is no improvement. I cleared the Codes and re-read them and got the same errors again.
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I Purchased a used 2005 . Everything was great all weekend long, but this morning, the car started shaking as I was driving it down the road. I drove my 55 mile commute, parked and took my son in to preschool. The shaking started when I left the school. As I was driving (around 45 mph, accelerating to 55 on flat road), the car had some definite shaking like a sputtering shake, but there was no sputtering noise.
No engine lights are on. Could this be a balancing issue rather than an engine issue? Or possibly a joint? Do these cars even have a flex joint?
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Driving home the other day I noticed some vibrations up front. Reminded me of out of balance wheels. Then the check engine light started blinking. Then it was on steady, then blink, then steady... Took it easy the rest of the way home. Code reader said P0138 Oxygen sensor circuit high voltage bank 1 sensor 2, and P0304 Cylinder 4 misfire detected. At home is where I saw the engine shaking and extra noise from it (visions of piston rod slapping around in there). Removed plugs (original? tough to get out!), compression tested all 4 cylinders (130 to 140), new spark plugs (had they been in there for 196K miles?). Start engine and same, shake shake with some extra noises that weren't there before (car just sitting in driveway).
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My 98 cherokee sport(xj) 190k has always been reliable but now its hard to start. I must press on the gas pedal and rev it up so it doesn't die. Never has done this, after a few revs it seems find. Is my fuel pump bad.?
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I've a 1998 Jeep Cherokee SE 4.0In the morning when it's cold the motor sounds like it's in high rev but the jeep isn't really moving all that fast - just more noise than speed. After it warms up it has plenty of pep and can leave rubber. What is the problem with it?
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I have a mkv r32 turbo. It had C2 910cc software, car ran great. I had to change to UM 870cc software and injectors in order to get UM dsg stage 3 tune. I had it out for test ride, ran nicely for 2 miles. Then i started to increase throttle, a loud back fire, so i pulled over. It stalled, i restarted it, ran for about 5 secs at 14.5 afr, then sputtered to 10s afr, the stalled out completely.
Had it towed home, all 6 plugs were black. VCSD mobile log states multiple misfire and misfire #6. I put new plugs and switched coil packs, same issue.
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I bought a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo about 3-4 months ago. One problem i have is that the heat wont switch from the floor. I've heard the motor that does this is called the mode actuator, which moves a flap to direct air to different ducts, etc. I've checked all vacuum line that i could see, nothing. It is quite hard to work on as everything is literally jammed under the dash. It is also quite dangerous as I cannot defrost my windshield in the winter. I get a tiny bit of heat up to the defroster, but not a lot. Heat works very well, but cannot switch from floor. Cant even hear the little hiss that you get on other cars when you switch. I just have the basic 3 knob fan speed, directional flow, and temp knobs, as well as an A/C button.
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I have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee with a straight 6. Lately I have been having trouble with hesitation when I accelerate. It happens at all speeds. It is a stick shift, and as I push in the clutch pedal, the engine races a bit and then as a let it out the car hesitates and/or bucks if I don't give it a shit load of gas. Also, if I let off the gas completely and then try to accelerate quickly it will pause and buck unless I do it really gradually. This problem is intermittent, so I am thinking it might be something with a sensor. Also, if it stalls out completely, restarting the car requires me to hold the gas to the floor. I have already replaced the camshaft and throttle position sensors. Not sure what the deal is.
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I have a 98 Jeep and the cruise control is not working. The light does not come on when I hit the switch either.
I'm reading that it could be the brake switch, the on/off switch or maybe the clockspring. Is there somewhere I can get the voltages that should be at these switches or maybe the ohms for them before I go buy new ones?
I'm driving to Colorado for a week of 4 wheeling and it would be nice to have the cruise control working!
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About a week ago I was driving my Pontiac 2003 Grand Am V6 and it began to violently shake and the "check engine light" came on and started blinking. I then immediately took it to the mechanic It has been with the mechanic for 6 days and they were unable to locate the problem. They called me today and I was told that I have no compression in one of the cylinders (I have done business with them before and felt comfortable in that I wasn't being taken advantage of). Also, is there any problems in the future with getting a cylinder replaced i.e. other parts of the engine that might correlate?
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I have a 2000 f150 4x2 5.4 168k... Check engine came on,started shaking, weather was really cold. RPM would be a little high then low then back up. Especially when I turned on heater. Felt like truck would die but never does nor does it have issue starting.
So far, I have replaced two oxygen sensors inside engine,all coils, spark plugs, fuel filter, had injectors cleaned, intake cleaned. Truck runs better but, light came on a day later again. I can feel the tiniest of shaking going on and, cold mornings still make RPMS a little unstable. I was driving truck on highway at about 60 mph when a slight tug was felt and Truck check engine came on. I feel truck heavy, once it warms up completely, a little lighter.
Codes came up at auto zone as P1151
But I'm running out of options and frankly, money to fix this truck.
Checked the MAF and looked okay.
I'm with minimal skills.
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I've got a 1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4x4, 4.0 L I6, automatic, 169k miles, that often cranks but doesn't start up. When I cut the power and try again, it starts up right away. I'm concerned this workaround will one day not work and I'll be left stranded, so I'd like to fix this if it's cheap and easy. The symptoms suggest either a lack of fuel or lack of spark due to an electrical problem, so I replaced the ASD (auto shutdown) and Fuel Pump relays, but they made no difference. The other two relays - Starter and Cooling Fan - seemed irrelevant. What this could be? Maybe the crank angle sensor? (I'm not even sure where that's located.)
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I have a '98 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4Door, 4WD, 5-Speed Manual Trans, 4.0L Inline 6 cyl. mileage: 220,000+At highway speed if I hit a bump the car will start to shake like to fall apart. The only thing that stops the shaking is to ease of on the gas and it slowly subsides. What is causing this? Suspension? Transmission? Steering? Incidentally, the steering is not specifically affected, other than the fact that the whole car is shaking like a jack-hammer.
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My Jeep will not start. I can put the keys in the ignition and try to start it and nothing will happen. No sounds, clicking, nothing. The battery is fine, I replaced it with a new one, made sure it was charged and nothing happens when I try to crank it. The interior lights dont come on when I open the door but if i turn them on, they come on but they are very dim. Automatics locks dont work, horn doesnt work. I tried to jump start it with the new battery in with my other car. It tried to turn over but wont come on. It just sounds like the battery is dead when I try to turn it over. The vehicle in question is a 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo.
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