Cherokee :: 1998 Jeep - Heater / AC Won't Switch From The Floor
Dec 31, 2012
I bought a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo about 3-4 months ago. One problem i have is that the heat wont switch from the floor. I've heard the motor that does this is called the mode actuator, which moves a flap to direct air to different ducts, etc. I've checked all vacuum line that i could see, nothing. It is quite hard to work on as everything is literally jammed under the dash. It is also quite dangerous as I cannot defrost my windshield in the winter. I get a tiny bit of heat up to the defroster, but not a lot. Heat works very well, but cannot switch from floor. Cant even hear the little hiss that you get on other cars when you switch. I just have the basic 3 knob fan speed, directional flow, and temp knobs, as well as an A/C button.
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I have a 2008 Laredo which has been working fine until about about 6 months ago the ac/heat fan blowers continue to blow either hot or cold air even when the setting is in the off position. The blowers intensify when I accelerate. What the problem could be? The other minor problem is the fan directional. If I have it set to blow on my legs only, it also comes out of the window defrost.
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This problem is from last winter. 95 Jeep Cherokee. After about -10 it just doesn't produce much heat. Heater fan works fine. Jeep runs plenty warm..but what i neglected to mention and or forgot to consider is... I have a tiny leak in the cooling system somewhere. I added just a small amount of coolant a couple of times over the summer and have witnessed a small amount of steam (not lately for whatever reason) coming from the front of engine compartment. I can't find the leak. My question is :Could this cause enough loss of pressure to affect the cabin heating system.....
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I keep getting this message on information center " service for wheel drive switch", I own a 95 jeep grd chero. 4.0.. Can I do this one myself or do I need a pro in shop to service? Where to start.
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The problem is that my headlights on my 1996 Cherokee Jeep XJ switch off unexpectedly. I can get them to come back on for extended periods by fiddling with the control knob in certain ways. This is the kind where you pull out of the knob to turn the lights on, and can rotate the knob to brighten or dim the dash.
If I pull a bit harder on the knob, the lights come on; if I twist this way just so, then off they go; that sort of thing. The fuses are fine and the contacts in the fuse box are clean. High beams work great no matter what (these are controlled from the steering column). I think the problem is at the control knob.
Now, how can I keep my headlights on when I turn them on every time without having to fight the gremlins? I think my next move is to remove the bezels and so on as best I can and get in there with some proper contact cleaner to see it's just built up gunk causing havoc. If that fails, or if that's a bad idea, what's next?
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My 98 cherokee sport(xj) 190k has always been reliable but now its hard to start. I must press on the gas pedal and rev it up so it doesn't die. Never has done this, after a few revs it seems find. Is my fuel pump bad.?
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I've a 1998 Jeep Cherokee SE 4.0In the morning when it's cold the motor sounds like it's in high rev but the jeep isn't really moving all that fast - just more noise than speed. After it warms up it has plenty of pep and can leave rubber. What is the problem with it?
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I have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee with a straight 6. Lately I have been having trouble with hesitation when I accelerate. It happens at all speeds. It is a stick shift, and as I push in the clutch pedal, the engine races a bit and then as a let it out the car hesitates and/or bucks if I don't give it a shit load of gas. Also, if I let off the gas completely and then try to accelerate quickly it will pause and buck unless I do it really gradually. This problem is intermittent, so I am thinking it might be something with a sensor. Also, if it stalls out completely, restarting the car requires me to hold the gas to the floor. I have already replaced the camshaft and throttle position sensors. Not sure what the deal is.
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I have a 98 Jeep and the cruise control is not working. The light does not come on when I hit the switch either.
I'm reading that it could be the brake switch, the on/off switch or maybe the clockspring. Is there somewhere I can get the voltages that should be at these switches or maybe the ohms for them before I go buy new ones?
I'm driving to Colorado for a week of 4 wheeling and it would be nice to have the cruise control working!
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I have a 95 jeep Cherokee and have lost all power to my radio, heater, wipers and turn signals, i have checked all fuses and replace a relay i thought may have been bad, I have yet to find any inline fuses that may cause the issue.
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I've got a 1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4x4, 4.0 L I6, automatic, 169k miles, that often cranks but doesn't start up. When I cut the power and try again, it starts up right away. I'm concerned this workaround will one day not work and I'll be left stranded, so I'd like to fix this if it's cheap and easy. The symptoms suggest either a lack of fuel or lack of spark due to an electrical problem, so I replaced the ASD (auto shutdown) and Fuel Pump relays, but they made no difference. The other two relays - Starter and Cooling Fan - seemed irrelevant. What this could be? Maybe the crank angle sensor? (I'm not even sure where that's located.)
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I have a '98 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4Door, 4WD, 5-Speed Manual Trans, 4.0L Inline 6 cyl. mileage: 220,000+At highway speed if I hit a bump the car will start to shake like to fall apart. The only thing that stops the shaking is to ease of on the gas and it slowly subsides. What is causing this? Suspension? Transmission? Steering? Incidentally, the steering is not specifically affected, other than the fact that the whole car is shaking like a jack-hammer.
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My Jeep will not start. I can put the keys in the ignition and try to start it and nothing will happen. No sounds, clicking, nothing. The battery is fine, I replaced it with a new one, made sure it was charged and nothing happens when I try to crank it. The interior lights dont come on when I open the door but if i turn them on, they come on but they are very dim. Automatics locks dont work, horn doesnt work. I tried to jump start it with the new battery in with my other car. It tried to turn over but wont come on. It just sounds like the battery is dead when I try to turn it over. The vehicle in question is a 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo.
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Would the control on dash cause there to be no air coming out heater vents on floor. I can hear the blower very loudly in dash about in the middle air comes out dash vents and out defroster ducts. When you switch to heater you get blower noise but very little air coming out floor vents.is it the control or possibly a vacuum mother on a vent somewhere
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It works great for the first 5 minutes and gets icebox cold. I can almost see my breath then the system starts blowing warm air and stays that way. I've had the coolant recharged and the shop tells me there is nothing wrong with it. Of course it works for them.
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I have a 98 Grand Cherokee (V-8) with 127K on it, that sometimes during cold starts acts like an old carburetor system with the choke sticking. It floods, chokes, it sputters, and you have to maintain an RPM of about 2000 to keep it running and get it to snap out of it. A local shop did a tune up on it before this problem started to happen intermittently, aside from this, it seems to run well. I took it back to the shop and they did several diagnostic tests and even got it to do it for them while they had it.
I told them that it seemed like if we released the key from the start position as soon as it began to fire, the problem would happen, if we held it I the start for a bit longer we could usually avoid it. They returned it to me saying that "Yup, if you hold the start position longer it won't happen, and by the way here is a bill for $103." With the recent below zero temps, it's getting worse, almost unavoidable. My wife says it uses a lot of fuel when this is happening but we have not actually tracked the mileage. Other than this it's a great car but I'm ready to drive it off a high mountain cliff.
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1998 Jeep Cherokee sport ... My mechanic tells me that my #1 fuel injector is always spraying and that that is why the jeep runs rough. This is after he already told me that my injectors were clogged and needed to be replaced (which he did). When the car is idling for a while, the exhaust really begins to smell like gas, so this seems to make some sense to me, unlike his previous diagnosis. But now he is telling me that I need to replace the computer to fix this problem.
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I have a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee with about 240000 miles on the clock. Words cannot describe how impressed I am by this car. However, yesterday I noticed that the selector switch where one chooses to direct the air output has failed me. It seems to be stuck in the windshield defrost setting, unable to redirect the airflow to anywhere else. I am however still able to control the temperature as well as A/C settings. The switch felt strangely 'limp' almost as though it is no longer connected to whatever engineering or witchcraft it is attached to behind the control panel. What are your thoughts on this? Could it be as simple as some mechanical linkage that has snapped off? Just to recap: blower motor, heat and A/C are not affected by this.
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My '98 4.0 has 213k on it and the other day I started the engine and the jeep started shaking like crazy. Eventually the engine quit and refused to turn over so I looked under the hood and quickly discovered the problem, a deteriorated rubber elbow on the left manifold. The elbow connects to a threaded breather type valve in the manifold and has a thin piece of black plastic routing to the purge solenoid next to the left fender/air box.
When I removed the rubber elbow from the manifold the engine eventually turned over and idled fine, I then headed to autozone and found replacements of the same diameter, I cut them down a bit to match the length of the originals. Since its been a while I changed the plugs and wires, coil pack along with cap and rotor while I was at it. I replaced one plug and wire at a time to ensure I didn't mix things up, same goes for the cap. Now the jeep seems to take a few more seconds to get started but once it does it idles fine.
Now when I hit the gas hard the jeep will hesitate and then backfire. If I'm smooth on the gas the jeep drives good, whether city or highway. When coming to a stop the jeep will sometimes buck slightly like it wants to cut but doesn't. The backfire sounds like its coming from the air box and oddly enough, my aftermarket radio no longer plays in the accessory position, probably a separate issue. So far there's been no check engine light.
I really need to keep this jeep for a few more months and I would hate to put big money into at this stage.
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1998 tahoe LT .. My truck selector switch has been acting up. when i turn the switch from defrost to AC mode it takes time before it moves the doors to the correct position. does something need lubed or do i have something that needs (or will need) replaced?
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2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport: Sometimes the directionals shut off after a few blinks and sometimes they don't work at all. I think I identified the area where the blinker noise comes from. It is to the left underneath the steering wheel column.
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