Cherokee :: 1998 JGC 4.0L Motor Just Shut Off When Driving - No Spark From Harness To Coil
Apr 18, 2015
I have a 1998 JGC. 4.0L motor. Driving it around town the motor would just shut off. Used to do it once in a while....then started happening more and more. I replaced the spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor....thinking maybe it needed a tuneup. Sometimes it restarted right away (right after it quit). Sometimes it wouldn't start until the next day.
So two days ago, daughter was driving it home from work and the motor just quit again. This time it will not restart. Motor cranks over fine. I read on this forum that this is a sign of a bad CPS....although a bad CPS will usually allow you to drive home eventually. So I replaced the CPS. Cranked it over....no change. Now, to check for spark and fuel. I turn on the ignition...I hear the fuel pump in the tank going. Then I pull the coil wire (brand new since I replaced all wires)...and put a spark plug on it....crank the motor....and NO spark. I then pull the wire harness that feeds the coil. It's a 2-prong plug. I turn on the key and nothing showing on the voltmeter.
I then put the volt meter on the battery and it reads fine. So I follow the coil harness connector back...and it just goes into the main engine harness. I then put the OBDII reader to the port in the Jeep and turned on the ignition. I get "Link Error".....so it's not getting a read, but the cigarette light is working...so the port is fine. So no spark to the coil harness and the Link Error does this mean a bad ECM (computer)? Also note that the fuel gauge (and maybe other gauges) are not registering when the ignition is turned on. The check engine light is not on. Maybe security system? I thought a security system failure would turn off spark AND fuel....but I hear the fuel pump running.
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Vehicle is stranded on the side of the road (safely) and here's what happened. Driving (normal) 1/4 mile away from the house, motor shut down. Pulled off, tried restart. Motor turns over normally and all gauges work (temp/oil/volt). The only weird thing is that the O/D light on the end of the shift selector stays on even after pushing it on and off. I plugged in my OBDII reader and it will not link with the system. Yes... the ignition is on Is this indicative of a fuel, computer, electrical issue? or all the above. Worst case scenario is i have it towed to the shop tomorrow and they diag it. I don't have the proper tools to diag this.
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I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 liter/6 cylinder that has 164K miles. I've kept it in pretty good shape with tons of new parts over the past 3 years or so, and don't want to part with it. However, lately it's been getting horrible gas mileage (about 10 MPG highway), has been running roughly, and smells bad.
Finally took it to the dealer after several attempts by my local, independent shop. Dealer said that the car has been dripping oil down onto the ECU wiring harness for so long that the oil corroded the wires and harness plugs/sockets to the point that they are un-repairable. He said this harness is no longer made, and even if I could find one in a junk yard, it would be "pure luck" to be able to use it and have it work.
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I have a 98 yukon w/ 5.7. Was driving the other day and it killed. Restarted with no problem. Happened again the next day but this time would not start. Upon getting it home to check it out i tested the vehicle wire for the fuel pump with a test light and get nothing from the wires (the key was turned ). Tested all fuses and they are good. So now I'm stuck....
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I am having a problem solving a will not start issue with my vehicle. It started running a little rough when stopped, it acted as if was going to stall if it remained in gear. I had to place it in neutral to continue to run. I also noticed a backfire condition that was intermittent sometimes under acceleration. After about three days of this condition now the vehicle will not run. I have checked the fuel pressure and it is within specs.
I found there was no spark @ the spark plugs so I checked the crankshaft position sensor and observed a high value of resistance between terminals B&C therefore I installed a new one. After further checking there is no voltage at the wiring connector that supplies 12V to the coil with the ignition in the on position. I'm not sure what is the correct method in checking for this voltage is. I read that it could possibly be the ASD relay so I tried another matching relay and there was still no voltage at the coil. At this point I am somewhat at a standstill and not sure where to proceed.
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Two of my plugs locking clips broke today on the wire harness side where the coil over plugs into the harness today while changing spark plugs. They will plug back up, but they won't lock together like they are suppose to. How critical is this? It is my wife's car will she break down? I drove the car maybe twelve miles, and everything seemed fine.
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My wife's 2000 Jeep Cherokee has a failing A/C system. Last year it was blowing warm air in the middle of the summer so I took it to a local mechanic who recharged the freon and it was fine through the rest of the summer. This year it is blowing warm again so we took it in for another recharge and it only lasted a few days. The mechanic said there is a leak at the evaporator coil(?) He said the entire dash needs to be removed to repair and it would run about $1000 to fix. This seems a bit steep. Any thoughts or experience with this issue?
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Here we go again. shut my 87 F150 5.0 off when I got to work when it was time to leave no spark from the coil, same as 3 weeks ago. First thing I did was pull the new dist and replace it nothing, so I pulled out the new coil still nothing, its getting power to the coil so I would assume the relay is good .
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I have a 1991 Volvo 940 SE with turbo and 162,000 miles
The problem is there is no spark coming from the ignition coil. There is power going to the ignition coil but no spark. The car turns over but doesn't start.
I have replaced the crankshaft sensor and the Ignition Module. The wire that goes from the ignition module to the Ignition Coil has been replaced with a new wire that goes directly from the module to the coil .
Also the coil has been checked and its operating within parameters.
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My Celica is running great, I drove about 30 miles and the car started hesitating to run, I was in heavy traffic, I could hear rattling sounds which appeared as though they were coming from the heater. I stopped at a stop light and I could tell something was burning out. I have lots of power, car is very fast. I went to the next stop light and the car died, it started and I went to the next stop light with plenty of speed and the car died and would not start again. I tried starting the car for 3 hours, no fire from the coil.
I have no spark out of the coil. I am confident the coil is good. I have 2 coils. I went to the salvage lot and purchased an "igniter" (ignition module). I installed it on my Celica, still no fire out of the coil. I have a relay under the glove box that clicks when I crank over the engine. The engine cranks over very well for over 3 hours. I have an after market alarm. Why do I not have spark out of my coil?
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'91 Nissan NX 1600.It does not start., No spark from the coil which I've tried replacing, and the wiring tests fine everywhere before that. It's been sitting like this for going on two years, I think.
Background : Right before this started happening I replaced the clutch disk and flywheel, as well as complete timing, sprockets, guides, even the cover. About a week after that the fuel pump stopped, after I replaced that I hear it prime, but now I have the no spark problem.
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My 93 camry v6 has spark jumping all over the place from the coil wire.I bought some new plug wires but only used the coil so far to see a minor improvement.I'll wait till it's dark to see where and if there is any more leakage.Plug wires are only 5mm thick.Is there something better than this(duralast) out there?
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'91 Nissan NX 1600.It does not start., No spark from the coil which I've tried replacing, and the wiring tests fine everywhere before that. It's been sitting like this for going on two years, I think. Background:Right before this started happening I replaced the clutch disk and flywheel, as well as complete timing, sprockets, guides, even the cover. About a week after that the fuel pump stopped, after I replaced that I hear it prime, but now I have the no spark problem.
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I've been doing the 40k service to my R32, and was in the process of changing the spark plugs.
The first three went smooth with no problems, the next three however.... When I pulled the coil packs off, they were covered in rust and corrosion.
The inside of the block leading down to the spark plug (where the coil pack was) also had rust in it. I haven't pulled those three spark plugs out yet. What caused the rusting?
I assume I need to replace these three coil packs, and clean off the existing spark plugs before removing them. Is that a fair assessment?
I haven't had any trouble with misfiring or stalling. The car has been running great.
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Scheduled maintenance for changing spark plugs for my Camry 2004 2.4L is either 120k miles, or 144 months (12 years). My Camry reached 12 years first. In removing the coil connectors, 3 of 4 holdowns cracked off. I guess not so surprising after 12 years subject to engine heat. I'm NOT going to replace the connectors. Looking for a patch for this problem? Duct tape will just result in adhesive getting everywhere it shouldn't. Maybe there's a high temperature "crazy glue" I could apply at the connector interface that will last another 12 years, or 120k miles?
Otherwise, I'll use the "hope adhesive". That means I'll just hope the connectors don't work loose at a bad time.
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2004 passat 1.8t. How do I remove the coil packs on the top of the spark plugs, so I can repalce the plugs.
I unclipped the wire and unsure how to pull the coil pack off.
No bolts. can turn it and maybe pull, but doesn't budge and don't want to break.
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1996 Ford F150 5.0 ... New battery, new alternator, new starter, new coil, dis cap good and rotor is good. New plugs and wires. Ignition mod tested good.
Drove a mile from my house and lost power to my engine. Lights and radio work. Just sits there and cranks and cranks. I'm not getting spark from the coil. Don't know a lot about engines.
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1998 Ford Explorer. Coil pack isn't putting out spark to that cylinder. Would the next step be to replace the pack, or might I check something else 1st?
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I have an 86 f250 i just bought back with no spark. this truck is not original. used to be a diesel. has a 400 out of 81 f250. had this truck running just fine 4 years ago. sold it to a guy running and bought it back 4 yrs later not running.
Checked all the connection to make sure they r clean. Had the ignition modular tested and tested good. I have 12+ volts from the white and red wire. I have a little over 6 volts at the bat side of the coil. I have no spark from the coil. I notice every time I connect and disconnected the bat cable I will get a spark from the coil. i ran a test light from the tack test sight on the coil and tried to start and the light stayed real dim and never flickered.
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Swapping a 2004 2.4 motor and trans into my 03 that has a locked up motor. Pulled the motor out of the 2004 yesterday and started tearing into my 2003 today and noticed that the 2004 motor and harness doesn't have the provision for the vacuum control valve mounted in the air cleaner lid like the 2003 has. Since I'll be using the harness and ECM from the 2004 into the 2003, wondering if I can just either use the lid from the 2003 and keep the VCV(hook lines back up) but not have electrical connection going to it. It will basically be pulling the vapors 100% of the time since there is no power going to it and it's a naturally open valve.
Using the harness from the 2004 that I pulled with the engine, there is no way of hooking up to the VCV since the 2004 didn't have one(hence no electrical connector).
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Have a 2006 Ford Taurus that has two dead cylinders. Cylinder 3 and 4. Code says bad coil. I replaced with new coil and plugs. Same problem. Replaced wires and same problem.
Car has 65K. What is causing both cylinders to be dead? Pulled wires off while running and no spark on 3 and 4.
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