Century :: 98 Classic Dings When Try To Lock Door By Using Button
Oct 9, 2013
I've had cars that will 'ding' if you try to lock the door while the lights are on, key is in the ignition, etc so I'm familiar with the sound. My 98 'dings' at me when I try to lock the door by using the button on the door. I can't find any reason behind it, no lights on, keys out, etc.
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I have a 2011 Avalon. The power door locks will all lock with the door button and the remote key. The problem is that only the drivers door will unlock with either method, what a pain.
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I have a 2002 Prius. The car unlocks both from the key in the door and the unlock button on the door but it will not lock. I have tried the lock button on both the driver side and passenger side. I am forced to manually lock each door. Why my car wont lock?
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My daughter has a 2001 S60. She's noticed lately that when she pushes the lock button on the key fob that the driver's door does not lock.
The other three doors lock, and the alarm sets. Not sure if I just need to get the shop to pull the door panel and lubricate it, or if it may be more serious.
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I just bought 07 es350 the outside left front door lock button is jacked up, can I get the rubber separately.
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Weird thing happened this evening. About sunset I went out to the front porch and pressed the door lock button on the fob to lock the doors. It honked at me. Never done that before.
Then it started making a loud clicking noise, like a relay, from under the hood. I went around to the drivers door and pressed the unlock button but the doors did not unlock. Pulled the emergency key out of the fob and opened to door.
I was thinking maybe it just wanted me to start it up and recharge for a minute. Haven't driven it since last Thursday before a spell of freezing weather on Friday & Saturday.
Inserted key fob in dash socket & tried to start it - nothing happened except some warning lights on the dash started blinking in time with the relay clicking sound. Turned it off & back on and door locks started clicking like it was trying to lock & unlock.
Kept turning it off and on, tried to manually unlock or lock the doors. Left the door open and went inside & put a new battery in the key fob, went out to try again. Tried to start it but it would not. Eventually, everything stopped except the "Check Engine" light came on. Car still won't start. Now I can't lock the drivers door.
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Last week out of the blue, the lock/unlock button the driver's side door stopped working altogether. It's not stuck, as I can definitely feel it click when pressed. Also, the passenger side button works just fine. This is very annoying after spending a year without ever having to use the actual key fob.
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Lock/unlock button on door handle failed? Over the past couple of weeks mine has iced up a couple of times. I'm pretty sure water is getting behind the button and freezing. Now it seems like the button only works intermittently, and it definitely has a spongy feel to it when you press it. Off to the dealer I guess. Though if it's because of ice it's probably going to fail every year.....
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On my 2007 Prius the exterior lock button on the driver door works maybe 1 time out of 10. After shutting all the doors I press it and usually nothing happens (when it works, it locks all the doors and makes the beep sound as expected).
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It only does it when I get in. It dings 1 time. It just started this. Its like if you left the lights on or keys in. But none of that is true. I get out every night and lock door with the remote. Then in morning I unlock and get in, as soon as I open the door "ding". Then it stops, only 1 ding..
I know the car is trying to tell me something, BUT what???
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so it started like a month ago my door light would occasionally come on for no reason now it's to the point where my door light is always on and it constantly dings, i know its the door lock module but is there any way to tell which door? it might be the trunk and also is there a way to temporarily fix it soi don't drive my car into a tree from being so annoyed.
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My passenger front door lock will not work with remotes or lock unlock buttons inside vehicle.
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The rear driver side door on my Passat doesn't work right, it doesn't lock or unlock from the button on the front two doors....and the window only rolls down when that door is open and the car is running, how to fix?
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I am getting ready to tackle a few projects on the new X. First I would like to fix the door locks. passenger side front, it makes a noise when i hit the lock/unlock button, but doesn't move. Hoping it is the actuator but wanted to make sure first. Is the actuator the first culprit to fix? I guess, How do i know it is the actuator? Wanna order them from rockauto soon. I've researched on here door actuators, looks pretty simple.
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After being all over the map, MK4 to MK5 to MK6 to Corrado to MK2 to MK6 and now back to the MK4 I am back! Long ago, almost 10 years I built a 2001 GTI VR6 turbo that I absolutely loved, but college funds forced that sale. Driving just about everything I have always wanted another 12v to play with, but they are getting harder to find that are not totally molested.
Anyways, I came across a 2001 Jetta VR6, one owner car, 100% un touched, all maintenance records, and only 79,000 miles! I had to buy it. Only a couple minor dings in the passenger door I will mend out down the road, otherwise the car is darn near mint condition.
Engine Plans:
Kinetic Manifold
Precision 6262 T4 .81
C2 # 630cc fueling
9:1
Flipside Short runner
FX400
Interior:
Full R32 seating, steering wheel, pedals (I saved this in storage in case I were to buy another MK4, glad I did!)
Maybe suede headliner/pillars
Exterior:
Bora-R front, GLI side skirts, Votex rear if I can find a nice OEM one somewhere
Undecided on Brakes/wheels/suspension, I want the car drivable, to go enjoy some canyon ripping up here in the Rocky Mountains. This car will not be slammed down just to destroy the geometry and make for a poor handling car while ruining fenders and body work
Anyways, some quick pictures for me to reference where it all started, nothing special, again only 79k on the ODO, she is CLEAN
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I bought an '02 LE, 4 cyl w/123k miles and found electric issues. Are they somehow related and indicate a bigger issue? No lights by shifter (PRINDL). Auto shut-off for overhead light works intermittently. Driver door lock button works intermittently – at times when you pull to lock door it’s ok. At times it slides back and forth doing nothing, and can’t be locked manually w/ key or w/ remote. Driver and passenger windows kind of jump at start of open and end of close.
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My power door lock switch in the drivers door stopped working (not the actuator problem, but the actual switch would unlock, but not lock the doors)
I started to research if it could just be simple corrosion and decided to spray the contacts with CRC electronics cleaner. It completely fixed it.
Next, my parking brake light sensor stopped working so I did the same and it fixed it.
I began to research cleaning contacts and found a number of people in the automotive forums who basically spray contact cleaner on every electrical connection they ever touch.
I will do this in the future. The only part I wonder about is if there is something better to spray on them to prevent further corrosion in the future. I used dielectric grease but it would be nice to just spray the thing down. However, CRC does say their electronic cleaner prevent future corrosion.
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With my 2003 PSD 6.0L, I would lock all doors with interior lock button and lock driver's door with the key. Can I do the same with my 2015 PSD 6.7 L or is there another easier/simpler way?
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The anti-lock alert indicator of my 2000 Buick Century goes off and on every day or so in warm weather; seemed that it stayed on much longer in cold weather. Braking is fine, no other alerts associated with braking. Is this a common problem? Might this be oxidation on terminal connectors of wheel sensors since it's so intermittent??
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I own a 2001 Honda CRV and have realized that I will never own another Honda because it has had many of the exact same problems that my old Accord did. Seems certain things just break on Hondas. However, unlike the last car, I have decided that doing the repairs myself would be a cheaper way to fix these minor problems. To the point: A few months ago, my driver's side door lock started acting up. (Note: I quit using the keyless entry a long time ago and simply use the key). At first, it randomly wouldn't lock/unlock along with the others. However, simply using the key or pushing/pulling on the lock knob did the trick. As time went on, the lock got more and more stubborn. Eventually, it took turning the key (hard) at the same time as pulling on the lever to unlock the door. Locking it still was not a problem. Now, even that does not work, and the only way to unlock it is to pull hard on the outside handle while pulling on the lock knob (this requires the window being down and is therefore impractical for any kind of daily use). Hence, I am resigned to climbing in the passenger door. After reading that Hondas usually have this problem and that it is usually the door lock actuator that is the problem, I purchased a new lock mechanism and actuator (I figured replacing the entire thing couldn't hurt...). So, I have replaced the entire mechanism within the door. However, the problem is still exactly the same. What else could this be?
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I have a 2008 Camry Hybrid with about 125k miles. A few thousand miles ago the door locks have been displaying portions of the following issues and then finally ended up with all these issues described:
Driver door lock: (OK)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
- Power door lock switch locks and unlocks door
Front passenger door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on this door or driver door, does NOT lock/unlock door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear right door lock: (Intermittent Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger doors intermittently fail to lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear left door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, does NOT open the door
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger door does NOT lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
What specific parts would need to be replaced?
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