Celica :: Distributor Mounting Bolt Length?
Aug 7, 2011
how long should the bolts be that mount the distributor to the (non-california) 5sfe? I'm putting my car back together (finally) and the only bolts from my pile that fit are one that is too long, and two that are only a couple threads longer than the width of the distributor flange. simplest conclusion is that the latter are the bolts that were there, but does that seem right?
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What is the original wheel bolt length? Is it 28mm?
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I went and fired up my ac today for the first time, and guess what no ac. So I crawl under the truck to check the compressor out, and guess what I find? The stupid face of the compressor had came loose and was sitting between my frame and the steering rack. Just glad it didn't fall off the truck, now I need to put it back on, but what size bolt. Looking for a spare compressor or know the size and length of the bolt?
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I have a 1999 f150 v6. Top starter bolt fell out while driving it seems. Local parts store had no way to look it up. Need to know the size, length I need? Only car I got so I am stuck walking.
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My jeep wont start if I tighten the distributor bolt, it will start and run fine if i leave the distributor loose. Has been running that way for 2 years and i just was wondering what would cause that kind of problem... 1991 Jeep Cherokee Laredo inline 6 ....
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I am installing my coilovers on my gli and I have everything installed but the passenger side coilover. I cant even remove the old strut because the damn lower strut mounting bolt is seized and I've been trying for hours to remove it at no avail. I have used pb blaster, my heat gun, and my sweat. I dont have impact tools, just my ratchet..
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1990 Celica GT ... I will be completely replacing the transmission, and the flywheel while adding a new stage 2 clutch kit. Also replacing the shocks all around.
Okay now to the problem, I don't know exactly where or what fluid or fluids it is yet. it seems to be leaking oil from the oil pan drain bolt also it seems to be leaking coolant too from somewhere behind the oil catch pan area. I did not change the water pump when the timing belt snapped but it looks like some water corrosion on the pump itself. are these common problems and what will solve these leaks?
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What is the bed length on a 2004 f-150 crew cab?
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Have a 2006 trailblazer LS with the regular AC (not the digital or whatever it's called) It's already pushing 90 some days down here....
So the AC will blow cold enough to freeze me out almost as long as the truck is moving even a little bit. Stopped for any length of time though, and it blows kind of warm-ish. Gets cold again as soon as we start going.
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First sounds from our prototype exhaust with PPE long-tube equal-length headers.
FIGS Lexus IS-F PPE Equal Length Headers and FIGS Proto Exhaust - YouTube
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PPE Engineering has been getting lot's of inquires from us ISF owners about the feasibility of making an Equal Length Header for the ISF similar to the one they make for the RCF. Since I am a past customer, live nearby, have another vehicle and am a pretty nice guy they called and asked if I might be interested in having my car test fit for Equal Length Headers.
While discussing this with them, I suggested that if modified RCF Headers wouldn't fit, maybe they could accomplish the equal length task by using long tubes. Well, it seems that RCF headers will in fact fit in an ISF, and the headers they built for me were also Long Tube. How sweet is that? But, the EL, LT headers must be used with the PPE Exhaust due to the exit point of the collector.
I went for Dyno testing yesterday, and it appears I lost 7HP at the top end and gained only 1.5 lb ft of torque at the high end. I also gained grunt at the bottom. My Seat of the Pants tells me the car is faster.
I don't know why it ran out of breath at the high end. Nothing else has changed.
PPE Headers
PPE Dual Mode Exhaust - With HiFlow Cats
Takeda Intake
As far as sound goes, in the cabin with the exhaust open, the drone remains in the same area (between 1900 and 2100 RPM) but is much lower in volume. I can now carry on a phone conversion (with bluetooth hands free) with the exhaust in the open position. The volume level does increase, however, when under acceleration through that RPM range.
Now the ISF does not have a lumpy engine by any means, but it idle with the old headers, the sound (both inside and outside the car) had a sort of lumpy growling quality to it. The sound is now very smooth, again inside and outside. The harmonics seemed to have changed.
Edit - My wheels and tires have changed. I'm now running RCF wheels with larger 295 vs 285 rears, so wheel weight is up a bit!
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Basically I want to replace all my boost/vac lines with silicone. I have a 01 jetta 1.8t with aww engine code. I need to know the diameter and length of each.
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My garage measures exactly 235" deep, and I would have to remove some shelving on the back wall to get it. I want a used F150 with an extended cab, and so due to the length restrictions, it needs to have a short bed.
One Used Truck dealer actually measured an F150 he had for sale, and it measured 228", which would have left 7" if I had bought his truck. So part of my question is if all F150's are the same length, do they vary by year, body style, etc..., but my main question is if it's possible to know the overall length of the truck just by having the VIN#.
Weeks ago, I found a particular "VIN Checker" website that gave me the length of one particular F150 based on the VIN#, but I didn't bother to save the VIN Checker website, and despite the fact that I've used several sites to check several trucks, the "overall length" specification has not been listed once, ever since.
So I don't know if there was something special about that particular site, or if the overall length spec is only available (via the VIN#) in certain years, on certain models, or what. So I'm asking.
The main reason is if I'm looking at a truck and I can get the VIN. Note I see other physical dimension specs all the time, width, etc... but length is the one that I DON'T see. I don't know if this is because the VIN checking websites don't have/can't get the information..
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Measuring the stock suspension length from bolt hole to bolt hole for me? I want to lift the front of my 05 an inch or two with longer hangers and just want to make sure the ones I have now are stock length.
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What is the correct length of the front sway bar end links. I need that info to order replacements for my 04 X EB 6.0 4x4. I just don't want to wait another day.
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Anyway I have a 88 s10 blazer that will not start, I've replaced fuel pump, filter, charcoal canister, also the rotor, cap, plug wires, module, pick up coil and ignition coil. Before I changed the pickup, it would start till it warmed up then die, wouldn't start again unless I gave it gas, if I held it steady the rpm would fluctuate but stay running till I let go of the throttle. Now that I've replaced the pickup coil it turns over, I do have spark but it will not start. I bought a code reader all I'm getting is code 12 which is no distributor signal to ecm. Like I said I e replaced both the module and pick up coil.
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My car was running perfectly, then one day I parked into my home and that was the last time it started. A mechanic came by and showed me that the distributor was not creating a spark and that I needed a new distributor. I bought one at a junk yard which looked much newer than mine but when we installed it, no spark. I went back and replaced the distributor for another at the same junk yard and the same thing happened, no spark.
I live in a very remote small town and this is the best mechanic that I have found, but they are not sophisticated, no real shops, diagnostic equipment, etc. After going through the expense, trouble, and having my mechanic tell me that it may be the computer, I decided to investigate myself and read a problem that appeared similar to mine indicating that it may be possible that the Crank Position Sensor may be bad.
This is what I read on a post on a different forum: "The first thing I would do is to check out and thest the CRANK SHAFT SENSOR. If this has shorted internally, you may have destroyed the IGNITION MODULE and or the COMPUTER. You might be lucky in that the crank sensor is the only faulty item."
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I have a '79 D100 that needs a new distributor. I've removed the two necessary bolts that I know of. I've tried to twist it, and will will barely turn. I've tried to pry it up. I've loosened a few bolts in the area to see if that relieved pressure. I've degreased the area and sprayed WD40 at the base of it and still nothing.
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I have a 1950 GMC truck that I restored with a 350 small block v8 with a stock set-up. I now have 30K on the motor and it runs great except for one problem: The module in the HEI distributor keeps failing. The mileage between failures is random: 3k, 5K, 8K. I have now put in 8! I pull the module out and test it: Yep, cooked. I have replaced the cap, coil, and alternator. I think the distributor is not grounded properly. There is no tach attached to it. What is the source of problem? Should I just replace the whole distributor and hope for the best?
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I trying to find the distance/length of a 2005 4x4 onward front radius arm. I'm fitting a 2004 Cummins nv5600 and transfer case into a 1997 fzj80 Landcruiser. I'm also fitting front and rear diff/axles from a 2008 f350 however don't have the radius arms and late model f250 are extremely rare birds here as Ford don't sell them here. I want the distance from the rear bush in the radius arm(at the chassis) to the front bush (top and bottom) at the diff/axle....
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I'm going to be freshening up my distributor for my 1950 Cadillac, and I think because of bad weather stripping and other leaks, when it rains heavy, moisture might be getting on the distributor. Is there something I can spray on it that will repel moisture or would just a healthy dose of dielectric grease do the trick?
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