I drive a 95 Celica with the 1.8L. when there's air in brake lines, and pump the brakes, the pedal gets stronger? It's kind of like that, except my friction point gets lower and lower to the floor. My clutch reservoir was a little below the MIN line but filling it didn't work. I'm assuming air may have gotten into the lines, but how to bleed them.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2004 Ford Expedition and today on the freeway I had to step on the brakes pretty hard to avoid an accident. After pressing, the pedal resistance became really soft and the brakes worked, but were very sensitive (a lot of pedal movement to brake). I had this happen some time ago and I did a complete system flush and no problems since then, but it has to do with how hard I hit the brakes. What could be wrong????? BTW - I never noticed the anti-lock brake pedal pulse at all during this event. I'm not even sure it is working at this point. No dash lights to indicate an error of any sort.
View 3 RepliesI have a 97 F250 that is having reoccurring brake issues, It has an intermittent hard pedal with little to no brakes when it occurs. It will stop but you are standing on the pedal with both feet. I have replaced the booster, master cylinder, and the vacuum pump in the past trying to isolate the issue and still had the problem. On this year model the abs ids only on the rear correct???? if it is shouldn't it only be affecting the rear brakes? Since this truck has a dual reservoir MC the front should still work?
View 4 RepliesIf this was my car or older truck I would know what the deal was. First hill I came down in my recently bought 2003 F250 the pedal pulsed a bit as I tried to slow down...is this the way ABS brakes behave? Never had them on a truck before...she stopped ok but don't know if they are warped or normal ...I'll pull wheels later (not a daily driver)...
View 7 RepliesHow to go about getting a stronger sound outta my exhaust. I know some have removed the resonator - just not sure what that sounds like. I switched from a Touareg v8 (LOW GRRRR), and as much as I love my new toy, having some difficulty w/it's voice - particularly when I push out .
View 2 RepliesAfter putting my Ford Ranger in park and pressing down on the E-break to get the news-paper or mail. I've noticed that there is a consistent squeaking coming from the back drum brakes when the brake pedal is applied. But only for a certain period of time; then the squeaking stops.
View 8 RepliesI have a 1990 GTS with a transplanted 1996 S5HE 2.2 motor. This summer I started getting overheating issues and I believe my water pump is dying.
Here's the symptoms; car will run nice and cool on the freeway doing 70 with the tach turning at 3.5k. As soon as I get off the freeway and RPMs drop the coolant temp will spike almost into the red. Accelerating from the stop will drop the temp but it will hover near the high end of the middle till I get back on the freeway or RPM's go back up.
It does the same thing when climbing hills or when the engine is under load. It did it bad this summer when it was hot out and I was running the AC. Bad enough that it boiled over a couple times. The radiator is brand new and just based on the symptoms I'm thinking water pump.
What can I replace my fog light bulbs with that are a little stronger than factory? I don't want to melt the housings and am thinking about amber bulbs. The stock replacements are hardly noticeable when on. It's a '03 W8.
View 2 RepliesI've followed steps 2-6 from this image
I don't feel any pressure in the hose from the fuel filter. I can hear a buzz (guessing its from the fuel pump) but no pressure.
I've checked both fuses, the efi main relay, and swapped out the circuit opening relay with a known good one and all checked out good. Only thing left is the fuel pump or the writing and electrical connectors.
Car has pretty much took a dump one morning and has almost no power. I can't find anything else wrong with this car besides this. Is the fuel pump the problem even though I can hear the pump?
Ok, I just bought myself some problems in the form of a '93 Celica GTS. (5S-FE)
Well, alright, that's a little dramatic. it just overheats. but here's my issue. it's got a new water pump, new radiator, and is still overheating. The guy I bought from says it's in the block, cuased by an attempt to plug a radiator leak with stop leak. He said it just had a minor leak in the radiator, so he put stop leak in it, and after that it started overheating. he's replaced the thermostat, water pump, and radiator since then.
My first question is, could he (and I) be overlooking something? could there be a clog somewhere easier to access? and then if there isn't, how should I go about cleaning out the block? are there areas I should check? anything I should do to try to unclog it? my current plan is to put cooling system flush in (he has some) and drive it home (about 55min. drive) with the flush in it, then empty it and hope for the best.
I have a 2002 Celica GTS with 80,000 miles. The clutch pedal pressure was very stiff. I had a 2001 GT, and it had a very soft and easy clutch. I just removed and rebuilt the clutch slave cylinder, using the CSK 2426 rebuild kit. The slave cylinders on 2000 to 2005 Celicas are all the same. After bleeding the cylinder, the pedal pressure is very much improved. It still takes some effort, but not like before.
View 1 RepliesI'd been suspecting that the fuel pump on the car was going bad recently, and yesterday when turning a corner the engine shut off and it won't start back up. At first it would turn over a couple times, but now there's nothing at all. I've checked the timing belt, which is good, and I'm almost positive that there's no fuel getting to the engine. The problem is that I can't figure out where the fuel pump / relay is located.
View 1 RepliesIt acts like it is fuel poor, As if the fuel pump is not pumping. It spins fast on start. Then another try and it starts! No relationship to hot or cold. Fuel OK. Battery strong. I find no corrosion on fuel pump leads.
View 8 RepliesI am replacing my leaking power steering pump. I checked the hose connections and it doesn't appear that the leak is coming from there. I have removed the right front wheel and have the car on jack stands. It is really tight under there.
If I remove the cross member under the power steering pump will that allow me to get the old power steering pump out and the new one back in?
Will the removal and reinstall of the cross member affect alignment.
117,000 miles, 1 previous corporate car owner, 30 day warrant. Bought 1 week ago, odor of burnt electrical. Seems to be stronger in the back inside.
View 8 RepliesI have a celica 1.8 st202 that doesn't start. The efi relay and fuse are ok. I tested these and even replaced the relay with another one.
-When I jumper the pins in the diagnose box B+ and FP the engine starts.
-When I remove it the engine won't start.
-When I remove the jumper the fuel pump doesn't get any power.
My 1987 toyota celica brake pedal is going to the floor when I apply the brakes but not all the time,i checked the pads and shoes they are still good i also bled the brakes, I am thinking it is the master cylinder or maybe the master cylinder needs to be bled.
View 1 Replies92 Celica at speeds of 35 or less brakes feel fine. At higher speeds the pedal sorta chatters with light pressure. If I press harder the pedal is smooth. Is this warped rotors or possibly something loose in the assembly? The car does not pull to either side the brake pedal just vibrates under light pressure at higher stopping speeds.
If it is a warped rotor will I be able to check for it with a mic or caliper? I do not have a dial indicator to check run in or run out. I do use a good machine shop with an machinist that I trust, but I would rather not pull rotors unless I have to.
Now I know this is not just tired mechanic syndrome and is a real problem with the car.
1992 Celica with about 130k miles.
The brake pedal pulsates at a rate directly proportional to how fast the car is going. How violent the pulsing is depends on how hard you apply the pedal but even at less than 5mph and even when barely applying the brake you can feel it in the pedal.
I've had this before on other vehicles and the fix was swapping rotors. Rotors are cheap enough for it so I changed the front and then the rear with no real change from either swap. As part of the swap I wire brushed the face of the hubs to make sure there wasn't rust buildup on them. Replaced a wheel bearing on the passenger front as it had some play in it. Swapped tie rod ends as they had some play. Bled brakes enough to refresh the fluid.
The changes have made it drive a little better (at least I like to think they did) but the pedal is almost completely unchanged.
I think that to feel it in the pedal it has to be an irregularity in the rotor or something else causing the piston in the caliper to move.
I drive a 02' Camry SE V6 ... The VSC, TRAC OFF, and the Engine check light appeared one day shortly after I started the car. Along with that, I have to push the gas pedal all the way down for the car to move; smooth launch, opposite of full throttle, and the RPM stays at 2000 unless I pump the pedal. A few restarts later, all of the lights disappear but the throttle problem remains.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1994 Volvo 940 and have previously owned a 740 for many years. I've only owned this car for about 1 month. The car appears to have been well cared for. Doesn't leak a drop of any fluids, everything works, and mostly a really nice old car. What happens is that it idles rough when it's cold. In fact, I have to pump the gas pedal to keep it going. When I first start off, the performance is less than what it should be too. Once it get warm, it mostly runs fine.
I have so far replaced, the Plugs, Wires, Cap & Rotor. All the vacuum lines, crank position sensor, Air Mass Meter and the fuel filter and most all the fuel lines too. The Fuel Pump Relay was replaced but I removed it and saw a few cold solders and fixed those but no changes in performance. Before I replaced the Air Mass Meter I brought it to local shop and they returned a readout of 2-3-2 which I'm understanding means running too lean. That's why I replaced the Air Mass Meter. (I did notice a big improvement once I replaced the Air Mass Meter too.) It was interesting that when I replaced the Distributor Cap, I noticed like black carbon in there and I'm not sure what could cause that. Although, I did find the previous plugs were not all the same. Three of them were high spark performance plugs and one was just normal
I pulled the Idle Air Control Valve and plugged one side to ground and the other side to 12V and noticed the flapper moving when powered on/off. The previous owner told me he replaced both fuel pumps about two years ago. It also looks like the fuel regulator valve is mostly new.
I'm guessing now that I have a problem with the Idle Air Control Valve or perhaps the Fuel Temp Sensor under the intake manifold. I purchased the Fuel Temp Sensor and just have not installed it yet. I really don't want to remove the intake manifold but I know it's not going to be that bad. I know that it could be carbon build up on the intake valves but I'm not quite convinced yet. I put some fuel cleaner in the tank to see if that works and so far nothing yet. The car only has 150K on it and I was told that during the owner before me did do highway driving.
When it's warm, the car does run very very well. The idle is still a bit quirky even when warm. For instance, when I power on the A/C, the idle RPM doesn't increase like I expect that it should. (It did on my 740) ... I'm still thinking maybe it's the Idle Air Control Valve too. Perhaps it's intermittent or do I understand that they can gradually open and gradually close?