Car shakes real bad when it turns over and then at different speeds. 25-30 it'll shake more, along with 45-50 and around 70 mph.
Mechanic friend says motor mounts which would make since cause the one thats visible has cracks in the rubber.
But the shop my father takes the car into says it needs a new drive shaft.
I have an 04 celica gt with around 168 k miles on it. Recently I have noticed a distinct metal on metal rattling noise whenever I accelerate at low speeds. It seems to be my exhaust as when I rev it up in park it makes the noise. But it doesn't ever make the noise when I'm on the expressway or cruising at back roads speeds. When I got under and looked at my exhaust everything looked normal?
View 3 RepliesJust recently the front of of my car starts shaking violently when I reach speeds of about 57-60-mph. It also feels unstable when I make sharp turns. I've noticed my alignment has gotten worse since this issue has begun. Tire wear looks normal except for small indentation on side wall of front right tire.
View 1 RepliesOur '91's speedometer needle wobbles +/- 5mph at lower speeds, but evens out and becomes steady at higher speeds.
View 4 RepliesSo my aunt's celica just crapped out on her over night. Car was running normal till the morning she was going to work. She started it and had all kinds of problems.
Basically, engine has no power. I live not too far from her (half a mile) and i tried to drive it to my house to work on it, and it was a terrible drive. I had to keep it in first the whole time, with the car barely accelerating.
Car has new spark plugs, new cap rotor and wires, Here is a pic of how the spark plugs look like after 3k miles
I checked timing and it was perfectly aligned, i swapped over a known good dizzy and nothing has changed.
Changed out the ect sensor for a new one, nothing has changed.
Here is a video of how it runs .....
Not sure what that popping is but it sounds like it's coming from inside the intake manifold.
I have a 90 Celica GTS thats a 5 speed, and the last month or so when going at slow speeds and turning, it almost sounds like tires rubbing bad on the fenders. But they are clearly not. There is also some resistance too when turning. I've checked the PS fluid and its full and not leaking.
View 2 Replies92 Celica at speeds of 35 or less brakes feel fine. At higher speeds the pedal sorta chatters with light pressure. If I press harder the pedal is smooth. Is this warped rotors or possibly something loose in the assembly? The car does not pull to either side the brake pedal just vibrates under light pressure at higher stopping speeds.
If it is a warped rotor will I be able to check for it with a mic or caliper? I do not have a dial indicator to check run in or run out. I do use a good machine shop with an machinist that I trust, but I would rather not pull rotors unless I have to.
Now I know this is not just tired mechanic syndrome and is a real problem with the car.
When I first start up my manual Golf TSI and shift from 1st to 2nd gear and take my foot completely off the clutch, the car begins accelerating on its own before I give it any gas unless i put my foot back on the clutch (or brake obviously). I'll have no feet on any pedals and it will fairly quickly go up to 15 mph before it stops accelerating. I've also had it do it in 3rd gear. i tried to let it go on it's own to see how much it would accelerate and had to finally put my foot on the brake because i was coming towards a speed bump.
I have a Launch Edition, so there's no cruise control, so obviously it has nothing to do with that, and it's not going downhill. It only happens during the first time I start my car for the day, or after having not driven it for several hours. I've never experienced it with any other manual cars I've driven and I though it seemed odd. My friend has a MK 6 and he said his does the same thing, so I don't know.
Problem: when driving at 65 mph and above, the steering wheel will start to shimmy and shake. if i let off the gas, and let it decelerate under 65 and then get on the gas again it will sometimes go away but it shakes most of the time.
What I've done so far: replaced front and rear motor mounts (they were indeed bad, but it still shakes when driving 65 and up AND it also makes the car shake like crazy at idle). I've checked the steering linkages and the rack mounts. all are good. I did however spot that the outer boots on the CV axles are broken. i haven't had any tell tale clicking when turning sounds yet. The tires were balanced a few months ago. i should probably rotate the tires and see if it follows.
Engine vibration? Its pretty significant and is always present doesn't matter if your in park or driving. What to check...
View 5 RepliesI just bought a 92 Toyota Celica for something to play around with. It's got just over 200,000 miles and everything seems to run alright except there is a really rough vibration at idle. The vibration is so bad that it's almost visible. You can still feel the vibration in drive but it isn't nearly as bad.
Any clue at what could be causing the vibration? I'll try to get a sound clip or video uploaded ....
I have a 2008 Saturn Astra and there is a high pitched squeeling sound when i accelerate from a stop. It has been happening since last year but seems to have gotten worse. It only happens in the summer time. It squeels only when accelerating at low speeds. if I accelerate quickly the sound goes away. but will come back if i come to a stop and accelerate normally again. It doesnt start from 0 RPMs but only at low rpm. It only happens when I first turn on the car and accelerate. If I have been driving for a few minutes and then accelerate from a stop it doesn't make any unusual sound. It happens in reverse as well as drive.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee with a straight 6. Lately I have been having trouble with hesitation when I accelerate. It happens at all speeds. It is a stick shift, and as I push in the clutch pedal, the engine races a bit and then as a let it out the car hesitates and/or bucks if I don't give it a shit load of gas. Also, if I let off the gas completely and then try to accelerate quickly it will pause and buck unless I do it really gradually. This problem is intermittent, so I am thinking it might be something with a sensor. Also, if it stalls out completely, restarting the car requires me to hold the gas to the floor. I have already replaced the camshaft and throttle position sensors. Not sure what the deal is.
View 1 RepliesI felt a sudden heavy vibration in steering wheel on my gen 7 Celica. At first, I thought it was wheel balancing or uneven road surface (which is very bad in my area); but discovered later, burning smell from nearside (left) front wheel, all 5 lug nuts loose, whole wheel very hot, break binding. I had driven about 15 miles on 2 occasions when I experienced the vibration. But the vibration wasn't there all the time - only at certain speeds and road surface, which made me think it was just wheel balancing; (checked other wheels everything ok). Don’t know how long brake was binding for.
It seems the piston is not retracting under normal operation so causing the binding. As to the nuts coming loose; I think it is because of the heat from the wheel; as if you apply heat to tight nuts and bolts they would normally come loose - that is what mechanics seems to do when they find nuts and bolts are difficult to undo.
Piston hard to push back into cylinder when bleed nut is locked, but easy to go back (all the way) without any resistance when bleed nut is released. But when applied brake again and again pads stays on; but when I tap caliper with a piece of wood the pads releases. I’m puzzled...as caliper is free and slides as it should when checked against opposite wheel. The opposite wheel is ok - pads on that still 6mm thick; while pads on problem brake are only 3mm thick. I noticed there’s a block under the bonnet where brake pipes are connected to. What is it, and its purpose? Could it be that something is wrong with that hence the problem? The disc/rotor is not warped.
I have owned this car from new and it currently has 32k miles. The only fuel used has been 85 octane or occasionally a tank of 93 octane. There is a distinct hesitation when accelerating from speeds of 10 to 15 mph and I do not believe it is due to the transmission shifting. I did move to my current state,California, from Pennsylvania and was told by my local Hyundai dealer service department that because California has a different gasoline formulation from most other states as well as a summer and winter blend to reduce emissions it is recommended to run a bottle of injector cleaner every 15k miles.
View 1 RepliesI've got a 2002 Toyota Camry with 96,000 miles on it. Car has been running fine for years but on a recent 250-mile drive I noticed a whirring noise (almost like the engine of a remote-control electric car). The noise is faint, but definitely new. I'm fairly sure it's coming from the under the hood, or at least from the front half of the car. No vibrations. The noise is only audible at highway speeds, and really only present when I'm accelerating (or on cruise control). It seems to get slightly worse if the car is climbing a hill.
Some things that have been worrying me:*I left the car in a friend's driveway all summer. Could that have anything to do with it? (There were no noticeable problems when I got back, which was months ago--when I came back after two months, I simply re-connected the battery and the car started on the first try).*I had a transmission fluid change about 2K miles ago. It was at a Jiffy Lube. They "flushed" the old fluid. They claimed they used the correct Toyota brand fluid. (I've since read that flushing the old fluid can be a bad idea for older cars.) Could this have something to do with it?*I just had my snow tires put on two weeks ago (and this is the first long drive I've done with the snow tires on). The guy who changed my tires took about 2.5 hours to do the job, saying "this is only his second week." The car is steering fine, and not drifting or anything, but could that mechanic have done something to the tires that is causing this highway-speed, acceleration-only whirring noise?
My 2007 Hyundai Accent gs shakes really bad while I am accelerating at lower speeds. I thought the front driver's side tire was loose or possibly had an air bubble, but could find no evidence of such. The rim and the tie rod looks fine, but it is shaking bad. It pretty much stops shaking when i reach higher speeds (60+mph), but when I am stopped and need to accelerate or turn it gets frightening.
View 2 RepliesMy 2007 Hyundai Elantra SE (Automatic, 69,400 miles) makes a grinding noise when I start to accelerate from 40 mph. I sometimes hear a noise that sounds like an airplane wheel being activated when I'm driving at lower speeds driving around town. Could this be the transmission? Who should I take the car to?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2005 Toyota Corolla XRS with a manual transmission which has developed a shudder. When this shudder started, it only occurred when accelerating at highway speeds, or maintaining highway speeds. Now it happens at lower speeds if I give it gas without downshifting, but at reasonable RPM, 3000-5000. I cannot feel the shudder in the steering wheel, but the whole car shakes, and it definitely feels like it is coming from the front end. I have had the tires balanced and rotated. I also have replaced the IACV and MAF due to a CEL. These were replaced after the shudder started. For a few days after the replacement, the CEL returned, but now I am no longer getting it.
There are no visibly obvious issues with the suspension or the drive shafts or CV joints, and the motor mounts likewise look okay. I am not getting a CEL of any kind, and I replaced my plugs 6 months ago, but I pulled them anyway, and they are not fouled. I don’t think the issue is in my suspension, steering, or wheels because I cannot feel it in the steering wheel. I don’t think my half shafts are warped because the shudder happens at varying speeds, and the instant I let off of the gas, it stops. Though this doesn’t rule them out completely, there is no clicking from the CV joints. When I brake, the car slows smoothly, so the rotors are fine. I have run injector cleaner a couple of times, and octane boost once. These both seemed to solve the issue, but did not make it stop, and it has gotten worse lately. My wife did put low-octane gas in the car once, but it was weeks ago.
My '01 Aztek has a very odd shimmy. It only happens when turning right, at highway speeds, and when accelerating. Not when turning left, and not while just 'coasting'. Only when accelerating.
The mechanic replaced a tie rod end, and that seemed to fix things for a few hundred miles. But now it's back and is happening at lower speeds.
The last couple of days I've noticed a strange sound that come on under boost accelerating at highway speeds. It's a harsh ssshhhh sound that rises in frequency with engine RPM, sort of between a wood lathe and a bench grinder. happens under mid to WOT. It almost seems like I am loosing a little HP as well but I can't confirm that. It's loud enough to hear it in the cabin and with the windows down I can definitely hear it. It's not really fluttering, that I'm used to being on my 3rd tuned 2.0T
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