Celica :: Sudden Heavy Vibration In Steering Wheel - Burning Smell
Apr 30, 2014
I felt a sudden heavy vibration in steering wheel on my gen 7 Celica. At first, I thought it was wheel balancing or uneven road surface (which is very bad in my area); but discovered later, burning smell from nearside (left) front wheel, all 5 lug nuts loose, whole wheel very hot, break binding. I had driven about 15 miles on 2 occasions when I experienced the vibration. But the vibration wasn't there all the time - only at certain speeds and road surface, which made me think it was just wheel balancing; (checked other wheels everything ok). Don’t know how long brake was binding for.
It seems the piston is not retracting under normal operation so causing the binding. As to the nuts coming loose; I think it is because of the heat from the wheel; as if you apply heat to tight nuts and bolts they would normally come loose - that is what mechanics seems to do when they find nuts and bolts are difficult to undo.
Piston hard to push back into cylinder when bleed nut is locked, but easy to go back (all the way) without any resistance when bleed nut is released. But when applied brake again and again pads stays on; but when I tap caliper with a piece of wood the pads releases. I’m puzzled...as caliper is free and slides as it should when checked against opposite wheel. The opposite wheel is ok - pads on that still 6mm thick; while pads on problem brake are only 3mm thick. I noticed there’s a block under the bonnet where brake pipes are connected to. What is it, and its purpose? Could it be that something is wrong with that hence the problem? The disc/rotor is not warped.
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Problem: when driving at 65 mph and above, the steering wheel will start to shimmy and shake. if i let off the gas, and let it decelerate under 65 and then get on the gas again it will sometimes go away but it shakes most of the time.
What I've done so far: replaced front and rear motor mounts (they were indeed bad, but it still shakes when driving 65 and up AND it also makes the car shake like crazy at idle). I've checked the steering linkages and the rack mounts. all are good. I did however spot that the outer boots on the CV axles are broken. i haven't had any tell tale clicking when turning sounds yet. The tires were balanced a few months ago. i should probably rotate the tires and see if it follows.
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I own a 1990 Ford Ranger, 2.3 EFI with an 8 Plug setup and 2WD. It uses a dual-coil system an not a distributor if that means anything here.
Okay, so for the last week I have been experiencing extremely high oil pressures. My gauge would read almost as high as the "H" mark. The smell of burning oil was heavy in the cab from the vents. I took it easy, made sure my oil level was good and I had enough oil, the truck drove rough, but drove decent.
Yesterday, I got done sliding in some mud (not crazy bouncing or anything, just sliding). I stopped at a stop sign, turned around and hit the gas, and the truck died. I thought there were other issues not related to oil, however I noticed that the oil gauge now read about an inch left of the "L"ow mark. If I turned the key, to the "ON" position, the gauge pushed the needle to above the left gauge itself pointing towards about the "8 oclock" area.
Now, my truck will not start. It cranks and cranks and cranks with no start. I called a bunch of mechanics and none of them knew what I should do. AutoZone did not know what do, no one did. Some people said that the oil pump itself had gone out and that would cause the truck not to start and would cause gauge issue. Others said that it might be as small as the Oil Pressure Switch. Firstly, I bought a new Pressure Switch. Have not installed it because I cannot find the damn thing.
Where the switch OFFICIALLY is. I have read on Google that it is on the passenger side, at the rear end of the cylinder head. Other posts say it is by the oil filter...
PICTURES:
Without the key in the ignition:
With the key in the ignition, in the "ON" position:
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So it appears I have another oil leak to contend with. I recently took the Celica on a road trip to Las Vegas, about 600 miles round trip. During the trip I would occasionally smell burning oil and upon retuning home I saw a puddle of oil, maybe four inches accross under the car. The only sign of leaking oil I could find on the car is at the front of the motor, coming from underneath the oil cooler, everything else is clean. It looks like the burning oil smell was from oil dripping on the exhaust but the puddle was farther back on the passenger side. How would the leaking oil pool farther back on the passenger side instead of directly under the actual leak? All the seals were replaced when the motor was swapped, so I can't see something on the timing belt side leaking.
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My car has a vibration that translates up through the steering wheel. It occurs intermittently at varying speeds, from 1-3 minutes, and then goes away for awhile. The tires, CV joints, struts, and mounts were all checked and OK-ed by a car mechanic. There is also a burning rubber smell that I will notice after several minutes of driving. In addition, when I engage the car into drive their is an audible deep clicking sound as if something is engaging or breaking free from a stuck position. This also sometimes occurs when moving forward from a stopped position. The car has 160K miles on it but its been well maintained.
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Today was the first day I notice smoke from the wheel well, it wasn't heavy smoke but enough to caught my eye. The past few days I been smelling burning oil from that side of the car. I am not leaking oil from the motor because I check it everyday. Why it would smell and be smoking from the wheel well?
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So yesterday I was on my way home from work, and I had smelled a little burning and then I saw smoke from the steering column???? i pulled over and it had stopped no lights came up? the car is fine now..? I don't know whats going on?
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I have a 93 Aerostar RWD 4.0L that I was driving around town a few weeks ago and I noticed it wasn't braking that well. The pedal is usually firm but easy to push and very sensitive...instead it was a lot firmer and didn't brake as quickly when i put my foot down. The van itself felt a little under powered, like something was holding it back and I had to put my foot down a lot more to get it up to speed. After awhile I began getting a really bad burning smell coming in through the driver window. I pulled over and saw small faint lines of smoke coming out of the front driver side wheel well, upon closer inspection I got a good wiff of burnt brake pad (I am familiar with the scent) and the hub cap on the wheel was really hot. I automatically assumed the caliper was ceased.
Later when I had free time took the wheel off removed the caliper from the wheel and everything looked fine. I was able to push the piston back in with ease using a C-clamp, but there was a lot of corrosion in and around the piston, I wire brushed it off and greased and cleaned everything up. I took it out since then on a few short trips to the store, everything seemed fine. Today however it happened again, and I began smelling burnt brake pad from the same wheel well. It only seems to happen when I have been driving it for a long time like 30mins to 1hr, short trips everything is fine. Is this the caliper or the Master cylinder? Due to the excessive heat around the wheel hub should i maybe think about replacing the inner and outer wheel bearings as well?
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It has been there for about 6 months....i own a 3rd gen and i feel the steering bit heavy (actually not soft) to steer compared to other toyota models...the tire is 215 45 r17...can the steering tightness be adjusted technically at some point....
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Today I noticed a strong burning rubber or plastic smell coming out of the right rear wheel well. All other wheel wells did not have this odour.
We had a bout of freezing temp's here recently and some snow, I'm wondering if the brake on that wheel may have seized slightly through the all wheel drives tourque vectoring or through parking brake use.
I'm going to drive it to the dealership tomorrow without making an appointment in hopes they will look at it right away as making an appointment this time of year is probably going to take forever.
Something I might be missing or can do?
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After smelling burning for a few days randomly, I've narrowed it down to the rear driver side wheel. After about on the highway, I stopped, and it is HOT! I pulled the wheel but the hub spins easily 1/16th of a turn or so, as it's in park, so the brakes are not dragging. What else this could be? Or are they dragging at random? The rotor is perfect, no rust and no groves, so hte pads are doing their job. 1/16th of a turn is way exaderation, but it can move. Also there's no sounds at all.
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A few months ago I bought a used 2008 Mazda3s sedan, and ever since I get an intermittent burning rubber smell from my rear left wheel. I recently got new tires, brake pads, and had the rotors turned, with no change.
The smell does not always happen, it will be there maybe one out of 3 or 4 times, and it is more likely to happen after long drives (e.g., one hour highway driving).
The wheel well also feels very hot. The obvious answer would be that the brake caliper is sticking, causing friction, heat, and the burning smell. However, if I touch the rotor it feels the same lukewarm temperature as the other three.
One additional thought is that this is caused by the exhaust, which is right next to this wheel well. I have noticed that the area of the floor of the trunk right above the exhaust gets very hot, which I had not seen in any other car I owned.
Could it be that the exhaust is causing the rubber of the tire (or something else) to overheat and smell bad? Visually, it does not look like the tire has a different wear or different appearance, compared to any other one.
This may or may not be related: my handbrake seems to be useless If I leave it on I can easily drive with little to no noticeable slowdown... I guess the previous owner did not read the part of the manual where it says you have to release the handbrake before you drive.
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Just like the title states, there is an intense burning smell (like plastic or electronic) inside my 2007 chevrolet equinox. I first noticed it this morning; last night there was no smell. The smell is most intense on the driver's side under the steering column. I checked the fuses and none of them are blown and everything seems to be working on the interior of the car. I am having electrical issues with the back windshield wiper not working and the passenger airbag seat indicator not working, but both of those issues have been going on for a while now. The only other issue I know of is that sometimes (but not every time) my key won't come out of the ignition when I turn the egine off. To get it out, I push the little release button on the interior of the steering column. I have been doing this for about a year now, but I wouldn't think that that would have anything to do with a burning smell....
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Lexus es 350 steering wheel is heavy/tight when turning?
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2007 SF SE 3.3, approaching 60,000 miles. I'm feeling a front steering wheel shimmy on "heavy" braking, as in a recent trip into the Adirondack mountains with twisty roads.
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While driving to work I did a quick U-turn to avoid a congested left turn lane and when I completed the turn and straightened out, the steering wheel was about 30 degrees off center when driving straight ahead. A few seconds later it slowly centered itself, I'm assuming this was a Variable Gear Ratio Steering (VGRS) fault.
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06 F250 6.0 CCSB 4x4 163K Truck was in a pass side wreck about three weeks ago. Aside from bumper, head light, etc I had to replace the track bar and then I had the alignment done. Mech said the steering was loose and was either the steering box or column.
PROBLEM: Truck drove and parked fine last night, I went to leave the driveway this morning and I had to turn the wheel full right while backing up. The wheel locked up and wouldn't turn back to the left to straighten out. Hood wouldn't pop either to check anything
I crawled under the truck, the belt was in place and I didn't see any power steering fluid leaking. Thinking it was a PS problem and the hood not opening, I basically floored it and yanked on the wheel and it broke loose. Also, for what ever reason the hood opened after that
Now the steering is heavy and the wheel doesn't center on it's own. It will stay turned when I let go of the wheel. Scared that it would happen I didn't try turning it full lock on the way to work. but it happened again exiting the parking lot, again full right lock and the wheel stuck.
I managed to yank the wheel to the left again and I heard a distinct pop from what I'm sure was the pass side wheel area.
The PS fluid is dark and I'll figure out how to change it. I've read issues from the U-joints, ball joints, Steering box, steering stabilizer, and failing PS pump could all lead to this. Being the truck had a pass side fender bender, and I'm pretty sure the pop sound came from the pass side how do I check all of these items.
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The steering on my truck has become a little heavy after making a turn and bringing the steering wheel back to center. The steering feels heavy like I had a front tire half way down. There's a lot of drag then once on center it's gone. Could it be the beginning of the end for my ball joints?
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I have a 1990 toyota celica. The parking attendant somehow locked the steering wheel and the key will no longer turn in the lock. I tried everything i could think of: turning the wheel whilst turning the key, putting car in all positions other than park and then turning the wheel and key, changing the key, etc....The steering wheel remains locked and will not unlock.
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We recently purchased our 17 year old son a 97 celica, Problem, when he goes out in the morning to start it, it sounds like a is belt squealing really really bad. We changed the tensioner and it stopped for about a week and then returned. We sprayed the belt with belt dressing to determine which belt it was, one at a time, it was the one that goes to the alternator, so we put a new belt on it, the sound stopped this time for a few days and returned.
This happens whether it is wet or dry, but seems to be worse when dry. The sound lasts for a few minutes and usually goes away. I thought it sounded (the actual sound) like power steering. The sound does get worse when we turn the steering wheel, then when the steering wheel is straightened it goes away. My son said now it periodically will do it will drive for no apparent reason and go away.
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I am on my 4th Avalon and have loved everyone. This newest one, however is experiencing a slight steering wheel vibration intermittently at 70-75 mph. It also does not seem to "track well" at this speed. I have to work harder to drive this than my wife's Suburban.
Neither one of these problems is "severe", but aggravating and worrisome. The vehicle has about 2000 miles on it. I am taking it to the dealer tomorrow and my fear is all he will do is the balance the tires (and maybe that will do it), but I am afraid the "tracking" issue may be more involved. It almost seems like there is a slight amount of play in the steering wheel.
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