Celica :: ST182 - Poor Acceleration And Bad Throttle Response
Apr 20, 2012
Is it possible bad spark plugs and wires affect poor acceleration and bad throttle response.I have no error codes and the engine is rebuilded.Idling sound good.Difficult to start engine first time(seconds after-easy to run the engine).
Tyre size 195/65/15 winter?
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Finally had a chance to pull the coils for inspection, and give the truck some very needed plugs. anyways, since i got it, the truck on initial start will rev itself up to about 3k rpms. it will almost always die after that rev. with the MAF sensor disconnected, it will rev to about 2k rpms, and the idle, if you can call it that, around 1k rpms. it will buck, jump, spit, burp, chug, pop, blow, and phew noises the whole time. I can rev the truck at this point but the throttle repsonse is poor. it does rev with a slight misfire, but no popping like what it does at idle. the exhaust has been dropped before the cat, so i know its not a plugged cat. i feel it could possibly be a sticking idle control valve allowing air past behind the MAF sensor causing this crazy scenerio
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I just recently got my truck back, My father and I switched vehicles due to need and distance's being driven. 2005 F350 6.0, 164,000 miles
I couldn't wait to drive it again, I spent hours detailing and cleaning. Well I go to start and noticed it struggled to start, and didnt seem to be idling right. I looked under the hood and it was leaking fuel from the Regulator. I left it parked and never drove it since he last did. I read around on these forums and I bought the blue spring upgrade kit.
Now I notice it shakes at idle a lot more than it used to, pretty bad at times. Then upon driving it shakes even worse upon acceleration attempts, and has very poor throttle response. I have to put it nearly to the floor and even then the acceleration is nothing like it used to be. Most of my trip was highway at 60mph, and anytime it would start climbing a hill it would shake pretty bad with the acceleration. When i let off the gas to slow down before braking it stopped the shaking.
So I read around on here and I went back and used the factory bowl and valve for the regulator, still had the issue. Next I went back and replaced the blue spring with the original, still have the issue.
I just checked the FICM and it is reading between 48-49 during key on, cycle, and cranking.
Batteries are great
Alternator only reads 13.6 at 2k rpm idle, but have not had charging issues.
My father says he never noticed anything wrong with it other than it occasionally missing out. But I don't see how changing the fuel pressure regulator would have caused this. Especially since I tried every combination of oem and aftermarket parts, ensuring that all the connections and parts were installed correctly.
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My friend has a F250. He was getting terrible mileage and the mechanic he took it to replaced the intake gaskets. After that the mileage went to 12 and he was happy. Now its down to 6-8, just highway. It seems to me the throttle response is terrible compared to my dad's 01 V10. And it sounds terrible. Exhaust manifolds aren't leaking that I see.
I've got AE and have hooked it up, but I'm really not very familiar with these trucks. I don't get any codes that would relate to anything. Had one trans sensor code but that was about it. Key on engine running test didn't say anything.
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I have read many different threads regarding the TPS sensor on the pedal and EBPV deletes on the E99 7.3L Powerstrokes. I am trying to troubleshoot some issues with my E99 7.3L. Usually on cool mornings and after not being started for awhile the truck will seem to be stuck in an Idle. This is an intermittent problem that doesn't always happen.
I cleaned the connections to the Tps and the IVS sensor and put them back in. No luck. On another note I am also seeing a reduction in fuel mileage and power like the truck is being restricted. I don't know if these symptoms are related or possibly their own issues. I am troubleshooting and possibly thinking it is the EBPV system that isn't working correctly. Considering doing an EBPV delete with a NON-EBPV Pedestal and Flange.
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Well again my celly has died. I was driving down the road listening to some tunes when i noticed all of a sudden i had no throttle response and when I turned down the music my engine had cut out. Well i tried to start it back up and it was a no go. I tested for spark and I am getting nothing, I replaced the main relay and the distributor. I have new plug wires and NGK spark plugs in. This is my main source of transportation so any leads would be amazing. I have a 91 Celica ST with the 1.6 4AFE.
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When the engine is cold, and up to about half way to 190 degrees on the temp gauge, the throttle seems to not want to open very far. Almost like there is a disconnect between your foot and the throttle. You get a little acceleration but no where as much as when the engine has warmed up. I have noticed this when the outside air temp is below 25 f or so. Is this some goofy emissions or "save the motor until its warm" thing?
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I purchased a 2014 3.6 SEL from a non VW dealer. They may have put regular gas in the car, I feel like it runs weird, feel a delayed throttle response and a little stutter before acceleration? or is it just me?
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My 2007 Chevy Impala with the 6-cyl engine is, overall, a nice car. One thing I just do not like about it, though, is the electronic throttle. There is a quite annoying lag between acceleration on the gas pedal and response from the car It isn't just my car, all the Impalas and other cars I test drove when shopping for the car are the same way. Even the 2007 Buick with the last year of the 3.8 L engine had a touch of lag time compared to the 1987 Olds Cierra I had with its 3.8 L engine and mechanical throttle. I'm no lead foot but when I want acceleration I want it now and not later. Guess I got spoiled from 20 years driving the '87 with its giddy up and go.
When making left turns without a traffic light, I have to allow a much wider open slot in oncoming traffic than I ever did since driving the 1973 Toyota Corolla with its four weak hamsters under the hood. I'm not the only person I've heard gripe about electronic throttle. I have to wonder what about drive by wire is superior to mechanical throttle if it slows down the throttle response so noticably???
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I swapped my old 4.3 for one out of a 86 chevy blazer. the motor ran great in the blazer but after getting everything hooked up I get erratic idling and poor response from the car. throttle body is new as well, where to start?
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2002 V6 Camry 145,000 miles, cleaned throttle body with TBC fluid, now starts runs for a few seconds and dies. In order to open the butterfly in cleaning I turned ign on and propped pedal down. After cleaning the car ran better but idle was high and a little erratic. I disconnected the neg batt for several hours, now it starts, but dies right away. In the cleaning process I had removed the throttle control sensor an reinstalled it. Can't keep it running long enough to adjust it.
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I want to get rid the delayed throttle response on my 01 B5.5 passat V6. I've heard of this "Sprint Booster" product, which seems like it works, although it kills your throttle modulation abilities. I was looking into the Unitronic chip, its supposedly gives 16HP .
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My accelerator is very "slowpoke", anything I can do?
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We love our Touareg, but one things plagues our truck. There is a terrible lag in throttle response. We press the pedal down some, nothing, press some more, little to nothing nothing (like it is starting to crawl), press some more and ZOOM - the truck takes off. Kinda hard to drive like that... Is this expected behavior or is there a programmer to fix it? We have an 06 V8 and have not had any luck finding one so far.
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I am leaving from a meeting with my business partner and taking a left turn at about 10mph and very light throttle due to a rough road. All of the sudden I've got nothing. No throttle response and my car starts chugging bad. Then I see the EPC light on. I shut the car off as it sounds like I have only 2 cyls firing. start her back up and boom, normal again. No power loss, no lights, nothing. I immediately thought water pump. not the case though obviously. From what I can tell the EPC will come on for multi misfires. but for it to come on that suddenly for no apparent reason and then just be fine when I shut off and restart, I would assume this may be an ecu or coil issue.
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Went to install my intake last night, got everything in and together, started up the car and it idled just fine. Backed it out of the garage, put it in drive and had no throttle response. I was only able to coast. I did some research and tried replacing the fuse, cleaning the battery terminals and took the K&N intake out and replaced it back to stock. Still no change and still have the check engine light on.
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Feel that VW has tuned down the throttle response of 2.5 I5. Well after having the car 2 weeks now, I don't hate the engine as much, and I don't think the issue I am having is with the engine it-self. In sport mode and tip mode it is much better, Once the car decides to give me what I want, it has plenty power. But in auto mode, It has to do with starting off from first gear at a stop. I really believe it has to be a software problem the way the throttle is mapped in the DBW. The problem is there is little throttle response off the line. Like I push the accelerator down halfway quickly, and the engine throttle opens maybe 1/8 and slowly goes to 1/2 like 5 seconds later. It's more of a drive-ability problem. It's like no other car i have ever driven. If I give half throttle, I expect the car to open to half throttle immediately, and not delay it. I really hope VW comes up with a fix for this, I'm sure it is just a programing problem. So am I the only one?
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First ever failure with a Toyota. We limped home at 25mph this morning. No response with throttle pedal input, but the throttle body did operate in fail safe mode. Throttle pedal checks out with omhs check across the terminals per Toyota manual. I'm looking at having the car transported 45 miles to nearest dealer. I can change the tb out myself but not sure of the electronics. Does the computer have to be programed for a new tb?
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Mk4 jetta 1.8t ECP light is on, when I lightly push gas, car stalls and cuts off. Where to begin? Here's the vagcom readings:
906-032-AWP.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 032 LP
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0007
Coding: 07500
Shop #: WSC 78901
VCID: 77FDFDB25513C5A6AAD-5140
3VWSE69M12M090016 VWZ7Z0A4180723
18 Faults Found:
[Code] ....
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I have been getting no throttle response intermittently. I will be driving usually at lower speeds and all of a sudden the engine with slow down and there will be no response to the throttle pedal. It will come back quickly. Also the ESC light sometimes comes on and yesterday I could not set the cruise control. Today it had this problem but the ESC light was off and cruise control worked.
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I've noticed that my throttle response is pretty weak. Doesn't seem to just go when ya put the pedal down. I mean it goes but not as fast as i think it should. is this how it is on all our cars? kinda seems like it has a hesitation or something. Anything I could do about this?
IMG : [URL] ...
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