Celica :: Right Turn Signal Fuse Keeps Blowing Out
Aug 12, 2014
I have an 87 ST. Recently the turn signal fuse keeps blowing out. This only happens when I use the right turn signal. It will cycle about 5 or 6 times then the fuse blows out. Hazards are fine, left turn signal is fine, all bulbs, contacts, and wires are fine. I'm guessing it could be either the turn signal switch itself, or the relay.
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This issue came on suddenly. I unplugged the license plate lights- fuse still blew. I don't know where the wire harness is for this group of wires going to these lights to check for frayed or melted wires. I don't see any damage any where. I am severely limited for funds for a mechanic so I need to try and figure this out first myself. Looking for pictures of how I can traces the wires through the car?
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I have a 91 celica st and my efi fuse keeps blowing. i would like to know what the efi fuse controls, or what to check first.
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I have read and re-read the owners manual fuse section. Can't find what fuse I blew. I do not have trailer brake or turn signal on either side. I do have running lights on the trailer. Which fuse or fuses control the brake and turn signal lights on a 2012 F-150 ecoboost. I had them all a month ago, but bought a new trailer and first time I pulled it the lights went out. Figured I blew a fuse, but can't find the one! No power at the receiver.
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I have a 1990 f-150 that periodically (and rapidly) blows the fuse for the turn signals. The brake/tail lights continue to work, but just the turn signals quits. Looking for a schematic of those systems?
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I've blown my turn signal fuse for 3 times until the relay burned out. Now I have had cleaned turn signal switch (with CC) from all of the old stuff in there and replaced hazard switch. But it happens again! After 5 minutes driving, both fuses (7,5 AMP for turn signals and 15 AMP hazard) blown out. I'm afraid there are some shorts in wirings.
I'm looking for the wiring diagrams or any other users experience in this matter... Where shall I start from?
There was a water leakage behind and under drivers seat. I removed trims etc. to lift the carpet to take the Comfort Module for checking as there were some weird thing in overall car electric systems (central locking, saloon lightnings, electric windows and dropping gauges on instrument panel. I found a small amount of water in container, where the module is placed, but on the electric parts weren't any water marks... Also it's impossible to connect to the CCM via vag-com.
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2001 F-350 diesel. Out of nowhere, I start the truck and there's no turn signals. Fuse is blown so I replace it. It immediately blows. Tail lights work. No turn signal, brake lights, or hazards. I haven't hooked up a trailer or done anything abnormal recently. Only the #1 fuse (20Amp) is blown. Pulled bulbs and they work fine. Inspected wiring under and near lights. NOTHING! Any way to localize a short?
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I have a 96 Buick Century Special with the 3.1 six cylinder engine. Starting on March 18, 2015 my car has started blowing the Injector Coil fuse any time I take a fast left-hand turn. It never does it during a right-hand turn. I have now replaced the fuse a total of 5 times since March 18.
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Every time I step on the brakes, there is a bright spark in fuse #13. My brake lights, turn signals and hazards don't work. At this point my truck isn't drivable.
According to the owner's manual in my truck, says circuit #13 is for "stop lamps, CHMSL/hazard, trailer tow stop lamp, and speed control."
I'm assuming that the hazard part covers the turn signals as well, but I know the cruise control works even when the fuse is blown. I used it last night on the way home (this was before I realized I didn't have brake lights).
So I know I have a short somewhere. The only mods I've done to the lights are aftermarket headlights, but if the fuse only gets blown when I step on the brakes, I don't see what that would have to do with it. Also, the lights have been installed and working for about a month before this started. The only thing that I did around the same time was install the gauges. I ran the power to them from #5, the customer access circuit.
Are there any other "common" areas for this to happen? I already removed the rear brake lights and it didn't work. I am quickly running out of 20A mini fuses.
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We have a 2015 Sonata 2.4 Sport that has developed an intermittent turn signal problem. When the left turn signal is turned on, the right signal will blink. When the right signal is turned on, nothing blinks. A new symptom that recently started is sometimes neither turn signal will turn on regardless of the position of the turn signal stalk. I managed to get the car to dealer #1 while the LEFT=RIGHT & RIGHT=NOTHING issue was happening but while troubleshooting it, they ran across an inactivated aftermarket alarm system that dealer #2 that sold me the car had installed. I guess the alarm they install is so cheap, it's not even worth removing if they are unsuccessful in upselling you at the time of purchase.
Since dealer #1 would not troubleshoot any further unless the alarm was removed, I retrieved the car and took it back to the original dealer #2 I bought it from. They removed the alarm and the turn signals started working again, however, this lasted about 2 weeks before the symptoms returned. I booked an appointment at the dealer #1 to bring the car in & half way during the drive there, the turn signals started working again. With nothing to show them, I didn't drop off the car. Now the problem is back. Since it tends to come and go, I have try and time when I can drop the car off so it's happening when they get it.
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I have a 72 F250. When I put the left turn signal on and apply the brakes, the signal stops blinking. I checked the bulb and it was fine. What is the likely cause?
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I have a 1992 toyota celica st204 i got my dignosis and it come up with 12rpm signal cranking just wondering what it is and if it will cause my car to lose a bit of power .
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Have an 05 Auto GT which will vibrate when at a signal. If I shift into N it'll go away instantly. Had my motor mounts checked multiple times with multiple mechanics and they're fine. ATF is also clean and trans shifts smoothly.
I did run seafoam through it and it was fine for about a day, then started vibrating again.
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I get significant vibrations when stopped at a signal or stop sign. I don't get them in park or neutral. I ran Seafoam through the car once and it went away for about a day and then came back.
Now the catch. Had several shops check the motor mounts. All said they were fine. Could it still be the motor mounts?
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Just picked up a 1994 1.8 celica hatch and it was told to me that the 100 amp alternator fuse blew and there was some issue. So far haven't found any but I also cant seem to find this 100 amp alt fuse that goes in the fuse box under the hood. I don't have old one.
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So I bought a Celica a while back and the fuse box is uncovered meaning the cover that tells you which fuse is for what is gone. I can't find the cover saying which fuse is what online anywhere. If someone has a '92 Celica and can take a picture of it, that would save the day for me. It's a 1992 Celica GT 5 speed, 2.2L. Note that there are two fuses missing in the picture. I'm working on it right now, that's why.
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Toyota Celica 1993 has been in the shop for 7 weeks and now the shop says they have no idea how to fix the car. Car blows a fuse when the car is started. Replace fuse; try again and fuse blows.
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I found one fuse is blown. It's located under the driver side labeled "gauge." However, if I replace with good one (10A), it will be blown again once I turn on the power.
The gas indicator and back lights will work in the combination meter. The rests (turn-on check up indicators, coolant temp, odometer) won't work. The moonroof and power window don't work, either. Radio/CD does work. Engine has no problem to start.
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I have a 92 st, all stock. It was given to me by a friend that moved. The car was in very good shape before sitting for about two months (I had to go pick it up an hr and a half away, then replace the battery and starter).
The only issue it's had is the heater fan control will blow the circuit when turned on, which will kill my gauges, not to mention no fan. I removed the blower fan and bench tested it, seems fine. And with the fan unplugged, I can turn the switch on without blowing the fuse (it's possible that this plug is the only wiring from that switch, not sure).
My question is, is it possible this switch is short circuited and that's what is causing the fuse to blow? And is it possible this switch could be the source of my battery drain?
I was thinking maybe this was an ongoing thing, because the switch hasn't worked in a year and a half, before I got it. Perhaps this was draining the battery, but wasn't showing up because the car was being driven daily. I'm not sure what to do next but don't want to guess and start buying parts.
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FUSE 38 Keeps blowing...it controls the fans and dealer is not sure why. Coolant fan control (FC) control Module.....
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Temp knob is turned full to hottest setting and heat only blows warm. I checked the hose from the IACV and hose from just past the Thermostat housing and they are also hot. Where the hose enters the "Damper" just outside the firewall, it is hot but the small portion of hose after the damper into the firewall is only moderately warm. Is it possible that damper is clogged or is the heating coil iside the car clogged?
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