Celica :: Oil Lamp Stays On For 2 Seconds After Turning Engine On
Jun 14, 2012
I rebuild my celica st182 end grinding(I'm not sure if that's the word) the crankshaft I put 1st repair bearings. Rebuild head and put new oil pump(from e-bay). I bought Eneos 15w40.After 1000km oil pressure lamp began to go off after 2 sec after I start the engine. That starts just when weather temperature rises to 30'C.Today I changed the oil filter and there was no leak from it(empty). What is the problem -oil filter.oil pump,crankshaft gaps or bad oil. When I tried to cut the ignition cable and run starter the oil lamp goes off(warm car). If the car is warm and turn off the engine and started it again lamp goes off immediately. If stays about 4 hours lamp goes off after 2 sec. Tomorrow I'll warm the engine and measure the oil pressure.
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I have a 2007 GS350 AWD with about 110,000 miles right now. For almost the last year or so it has been burning off some oil. By the time its up for an oil change, it occasionally gives me the engine oil low light. It stays on between a few seconds to a minute and then turns off.
I've been telling this to the local Lexus dealership where i've had all my maintenance done, and they eventually did an oil consumption test. They said it was losing about 1.5 liters after 3,000 miles. They say that is within spec.
This issue came up several times while i was still in my 100,000 mile warranty, but they wouldn't do anything as it was in spec. I don't see how i should get a low engine light warning every 3-4k miles and have been pushing them to do something and cover under warranty since it has been documented as an issue before the warranty ran out. Lexus corporate asked for a compression test (which i had to pay for), the results are below:
Cyc#1: 205 dry; 225 wet
Cyc#2: 200 dry; 215 wet
Cyc#3: 190 dry; 215 wet
Cyc#4: 200 dry; 225 wet
Cyc#5: 205 dry; 210 wet
Cyc#6: 190 dry; 220 wet
After Lexus received the results they asked for, they still said: well the oil consumption is in spec so won't do anything.
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I've been noticing on the 2006 I've purchased recently with 120k miles now, the MFD would show the ICE engine no longer is on and proving power when I cruise to a stop. However when I'm actually stopped, I noticed the ICE engine is still on, about 5 seconds after I make the complete stop, I then notice the ICE engine shut down. Although there are no DTCs on the car, this seems to baffle me on why it's happening. The mpg average on the car is lower than my other cars, it can be anywhere from low 40s to about 45mpg on the MFD. What could be causing this?
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Yesterday I changed battery after that its seems malfunction indicator lamp stays on, i checked with hyundai service center they told to reset the program then diagnose the problem, then only come to know the issue or not issue they asked 20rial, i m wondering just changed the battery got some issue.
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Now I have an airbag lamp that stays on, gonna have to take it in for this one. Getting funny DTC's also:
P0480 Cooling fan 1 ???? seems bogus to me!
B0001 Cannot find a description, but seems to be a BCM Code, may be attached to lamp?
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2001 Celica, battery dead after seeming to crank more slowly each time it was started during the day (wife was driving). I disconnected the battery to charge/test it, after reconnecting it started immediately but after 1-2 seconds engine dies. RPMs can be coaxed up to 3,000 in that time, but even though it seems to be running fine it shuts completely off, no coughing or sputtering. Won't start at all unless key is turned off and then back on, then it will do the same as described above.
It's giving a P1300 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 1 error code. Possible causes listed are:
- Ignition Coil No. 1 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil No. 1 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Ignition Coil No. 1
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Seems to me a lot like the last, the ECM.
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I'd been suspecting that the fuel pump on the car was going bad recently, and yesterday when turning a corner the engine shut off and it won't start back up. At first it would turn over a couple times, but now there's nothing at all. I've checked the timing belt, which is good, and I'm almost positive that there's no fuel getting to the engine. The problem is that I can't figure out where the fuel pump / relay is located.
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How do you go about disabling or turning off the daylight lamp?
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I have 2008 460l sport package. I hear this noise immediately after turning off engine for less than two seconds.
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I took my 2001 Toyota Celica GT in to have the engine re-built due to a connecting rod that was ready to blow. I have taken it back to them four times. First time not dropping into 4th gear car is automatic stays stuck at 3RPMs. Said it was a transmission problem. I said didn't have one when I came in and not having one on my way out.
Nothing wrong with transmission. Said they fixed whatever they came up with and still car not dropping into 4th gear and my hood shakes so bad I have to put it in neutral to stop the shaking/vibrating at every stop sign and red light. Said they changed out the non-detergent oil for thirty weight and the shaking stopped for a minute.
I told them the third time I brought it back that the hood was still shaking, still not dropping into 4th gear. I checked my oil and fluids a day later and found no oil in my car and the tip of my dip stick was black. No coolant in the car either. I told them that this car needs special spark plugs or it will run like it needs a tuneup with no power. I was pissed.
They said that I had two broken motor mounts and the engine wasn't sitting correctly and that is what was causing the the shake and the 4th gear from dropping down. I was astounded..... They replaced the motor mounts and the spark plugs. When I drove it home it drove great. I even took it out to the river to make sure it was running great because I am selling this car and they knew I was selling it.
My buyer took it to Toyota of Orange and had a test done on the car to the tune of $120.00. It came back with upper and lower power steering hoses leaking and that I needed a new power steering pump. And wait for it.... a new head gasket!!!!
Which tells me they never rebuilt my engine, they just fixed the connecting rod. I took the report into them from Toyota and told them that I want everything fixed on this report and I want my car back in three days or I will take you to court.
I talked to the owner today to ask him when my car would be ready and he said by tonight that he had replaced the head gasket. Which still doesn't tell me if they rebuilt the whole engine. I told him I wanted the power steering pump and hoses fixed as well or I would report them to the Bureau of Automotive Repair. With the engine vibrating and jumping all over the place couldn't that have caused the power steering pump and hoses to be damaged? And am I within my rights to make them fix these at no charge as well?
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Is this the issue with the pressure units being set incorrectly? Or is this a hardware malfunction of the TPMS as the manual indicates?
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I have an '87 Celica and it takes a good 10 seconds of cranking to start. After being parked only 24 hours, it's the same thing. It won't even give a hint of a kick until about the 8 second mark. Then it'll give a couple of sputters and eventually fire right up. Is this the fuel pressure regulator that's the problem? Is it not keeping the fuel at the rail pressurized properly when sitting? It's just annoying having to sit there cranking for so long to get going. I would think if it was the pump, it would give me problems when running.
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After I turn the car off the "PARK" light in the Dash stays lit for about 6 seconds after all the other lights have turned off. Is this normal?
I will advise, I have the parking brake set to auto and the car seems to be functioning normally.
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I just purchased a 2014 Prius C and am having a problem with the Hill Start Assist/Control.
At every single stop, no matter how lightly I press the brake, when I release the brake the car stays in place for two seconds (no gas), and then starts moving.
I am assuming this is the HSC and not a normal function on the car.
If I depress the brake all the way no lights come on, no buzzer sounds, but the above described behavior still happens. I've tried the light stops on up hills, down hills, and flat ground, it all is the same.
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Two years ago I replaced the rear turning lights with LEDs and updated the flasher. Last week as the headlights came on I saw on my dashboard the left turn signal was on. I stopped and checked, the rear left turning light was on, not flashing and the front parking/turning light was off.
When the headlight are off, there is no problem flashing. The right side is flashing with HL on or off. I replaced the left side rear turning light with a bulb and the problem went away. The front bulb and rear LED are good. What is going on?
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I have a 92 celica gt with a 2.2 and I got it on the road and the next day it wouldn't start just kept turning over and not firing and it flooded itself I plugged in the block heater and about 20 to 30 minutes later it started no problem and now 3 days later I'm having the same problem but can't plug it in because it's at my work..... what it might be????
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I just bought a 2003 Ford Crown Victoria with sport package. It is similar to the P71 Police Interceptor model with stiffer springs, thicker anti-roll bars, etc. I checked the sticker on the door and found that Ford recommends 32 psi for the front tires and 35 psi for the rear tires. This is a conventional front-engine, rear-drive car. I was expecting to see 29-32 psi, and same pressure for both front and rear. I don't understand the manufacturer would recommend higher pressure in the rear for a car that is a little heavier in the front. I am thinking of keeping both the front and rear at 32 psi.
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Just this evening I turned off my car (2000 Toyota Corolla), went inside and then came back out an hour or so later to discover that my radio, clock, and cigarette lighter still had power. Without the key in the ignition, I'm still able to listen to the radio, for example. This was never the case before. I had the battery replaced five days ago, but I doubt that makes a difference.... How I can fix this so that my battery doesn't drain.
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So, a couple weeks ago, while driving down the highway, my '99 Grand Am had the oil lamp come on, and the engine was running rough. I pulled over and stopped the car, and then went to try to start it, to no avail. The engine wouldn't crank. After getting it home via tow truck, I charged the battery as first aid.Now, with the charged battery, the engine will start, and run very roughly, as in shaking the entire engine bay. Further, the oil lamp is on now. After a minute of running like this, the engine dies off. Stepping on the gas expedites the stalling out. I've checked and filled the oil, and the coolant (which was low). My next guesses are fuel filter and timing belt.
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When I push on the pedal Lamp starts blinking and engine works weird. What can it be and how to fix it?
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So ive had my celica for about a year now and recently it was having problems starting, i had to try and start it 2-3 times before actually turning on and running perfectly, now it sometimes doesnt even start. The only thing i can think of is my fuel pump isnt building enough pressure to start my car, my solenoid is going bad, or (could be a stroke of luck) one time i was pushing on the fuses in the fuses box and it start more then 15 times in a row left it for about 15 minutes and would not start again.
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