Celica :: O-ring Oil Leak When Engine Turn On And Accelerate It
Aug 21, 2015
I have a 3SFE 1997 engine. I've installed a Toga HV oil pump. My engine also has an oil cooler. But when I turn on the engine and accelerate it oil starts shooting out of the oil filter. When I remove the filter it has blown out the filters O-ring. I use 5W-30 since I've rolled it of the show room. What can it be?
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I have a 95 celica gt with a 2.2 5sfe engine that has a bad oil leak. I was told it is the oil pressure switch. Looking it up it seems to be a cheap and simple fix.
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I noticed a drip on the remote oil filter adapter connecting block, it was appearing from the seam between the block with the supply and return lines to the oil filter and the engine adapter. I purchased a gasket set and replaced the two O rings, the old ones were hard and flat. The new ones are soft and round, I thought that would stop the seep, but there was no change. So after removing a few more times and cleaning, even substituting a slightly different size O ring with no change in the drip. The two aluminum blocks are held together by a 13 mm bolt. It is a 1992 S-10 Blazer 4WD 4.3L. None of the crimps are leaking.
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I installed a BPD EGR cooler about 4 years ago just as a preventative measure (along with an oil cooler) in my '06 F-250 6.0. About 6 months ago some coolant was found to be coming down the rear of the engine and onto the garage floor but only in the mornings after cooling down and even then not every morning.
A couple weeks ago I did a coolant flush and put the red ELC coolant in and now I can see better where the coolant is coming from. It appears to be coming out from the O-ring between the cooler and the intake manifold. I did check the torque on the stud and bolt and they are tight.
Is there a way the drop the cooler enough to install a new O-ring with out going through the whole process of removing the intake manifold and everything that is associated with that? The thought is daunting...
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I bought my wife a 2011 GX460 from Lexus. On my way home i realized the car was in KM not MPH. The outer ring is in KM and the inner ring is in MPH. The dealer thought they were going to be able to change but turns out they can't. I'm at a crossroads, what do i do. They offered to try and find a new car or i keep the car and we work out a deal of some sort. If i keep the car will i run into other issues with it being from Canada. So, what makes a 2011 GX460 from Canada different then one from the US ?
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I have a 1996 Toyota Celica automatic transmission with just under 160k miles. It's always been a great car, very reliable and very few problems. A few days ago, it started having trouble starting (engine would turn over and not fire, usually starts after four or so tries) and then will bog down considerably while taking off from a stop until it shifts into second gear. No problem idling, not stalling.
Mechanic changed fuel filter, checked fuel pressure, plugs, cam and ignition timing, catalytic converter - all okay. Thinks it might be the distributor but would take a few hundred dollars worth of work to diagnose, plus whatever expense if it is the distributor, and obviously more if it is not. Might it be the distributor?
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I have a 2009 toyota camry le 4 cyl with 170000 miles. I had my rear main seal replaced because there was an oil leak. Now after I got it back from the shop, there is a oil leak near the front motor mount and my engine had gotten louder when i accelerate. also it smells like paint or something inside my car. what did the shop do?
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How to disconnect the door chime? I like to keep my drivers door open while I listen to the radio and it would be nice to not have the annoying chime ring.
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I tore it apart and there was no gasket or donut ring in the flange. Is there supposed to be a gasket or donut ring? I can feel the leak with my hand. I have retightened & it still "tick-ticks" real bad.
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I got some issues with my f150 2009 supercab... 6,5 box 5.4 6speed 160k on it...
For the past 30 k my truck vibrates between 20/30 kmh when accelerating mostly when making a right turn and when engine is warm, feels just like driving with 4x4 and doing a u-turn....
I'll get the transmission flushed but didn't work (does shift smoother though). They said the u-joints were still good ,no play. I don't hear any strange noise either
In the last while i read a lot about trouble with the pinion angle/driveshaft/slip yoke and what all on the newer f150
Can I grease the slip yoke myself easily or? Is there a complete aftermarket driveshaft available that solves the problem permanently instead of temporary or would it be the transfercase? Cause i didn't buy this truck new so not sure if the transfer case oil ever got changed,or does it not need to be changed ever?
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I have a 1990 celica hatch automatic with 33x,xxx miles on it. the cars always had problems like it would suddenly turn off or the rev would go high but all of thats been fixed
recently the car started losing power and it cant really accelerate to a high speed and speed past 30 and the car will start to shake a lil as if it was gonna turn off and even if i floor it at high speed it doesn't really go anywhere and if i use overdrive the rpm shoots way higher then usual.
Do i need new engine or is it other problem? my friend said it could be distributor?
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Our family celica has a leak at both the top and the bottom. There is a crack on the top where the leak is coming from but I can't see where the bottom is leaking from.
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I am new to working on cars. SO i think my water pump went out on my 1991 celica gts, there is a large water leak where the bottom hose from the radiator connects to the what i presume is the water pump or thermostat, need to know if I am on the right track...
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My 1987 Toyota Celica ST will not seem to turn over. When it has the push button addition that takes the power from the battery straight to the seloniod it works. But when i set the starter back up to the ignition switch and set it up factory style it will not spin over. it sends the 12 volts needed to start it but yet will not turn it over.
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I have an 87 ST. Recently the turn signal fuse keeps blowing out. This only happens when I use the right turn signal. It will cycle about 5 or 6 times then the fuse blows out. Hazards are fine, left turn signal is fine, all bulbs, contacts, and wires are fine. I'm guessing it could be either the turn signal switch itself, or the relay.
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When I put my key in the ignition, I cannot turn the key. I tried putting a small amount of WD40 in the ignition and turning the wheel back and forth while trying to start, but all that did was make my key greasy and my wheel lock up. I've tried getting a new key made from Lowes and Home Depot, but their keys are too wide and will not fit in the keyholes. The only thing I am down to is replacing the ignition switch completely but I'd rather do that as a last resort because my car has had a big problem every week (alternator gone, new wheels, new master cylinder, new rotors/brakes). I haven't explored yet? And also, if it comes down to replacing the ignition switch, how would I do that without being able to turn the key?
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The key to the trunk lock on my 1988 Celica won't turn. I don't have the original key. Could be that I have the valet key. All other locks (ignition, door and dash door work. I will probably get a replacement from the junkyard if I can find a car with a lock and key. Other trunk locks are interchangeable with the celica???
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I recently just purchased a 97 celica st limited edition. I am in love with everything about it except one thing. The seat belts only retract when I turn the car off.... As long as the car is running the seat belts will not retract at all. Once I turn it off the seat belt instantly pulls tight. I'm at a loss and have tried searching online but have not found anything.
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83' Toyota Celica GT with an automatic transmission. The problem that we are having is that we can't get it to turn over. All it wants to do is click at us. As far as we both can tell all cables and wiring harnesses are plugged in and there aren't any loose wires. We've had the alternator and starter checked and they both passed. Also there is a new battery with new terminals installed so that's not going to be the problem. In all of the reading that I've done I keep hearing about a neutral start switch. What is it? And where is it located? I believe I've found a spot where it should be but there isn't anything there. And we've put all of the parts in the car back where they go.
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I have a 1990 toyota celica. The parking attendant somehow locked the steering wheel and the key will no longer turn in the lock. I tried everything i could think of: turning the wheel whilst turning the key, putting car in all positions other than park and then turning the wheel and key, changing the key, etc....The steering wheel remains locked and will not unlock.
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I'm trying to turn the crankshaft by hand to verify my timing belt alignment, but meeting some resistance. is this because I have the spark plugs in? do i have to take them out to turn the crank? also, that little groove in the belt guide doesn't seem to line up with anything or get held by the rib on the crankshaft. does that matter, or have i got it installed wrong?
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