Celica :: Gen 6 2.0 GT - Low Oil Level Light Comes On From Time To Time
Mar 28, 2005
I drive a Gen 6 2.0GT Celica. It goes great and never gives me any hassle. While it is still going great it has given me a little cause for concern. The low oil level light comes on from time to time. What actually happens is when the car's up to operating temperature the light comes on. Then if I accelerate or just rev the engine the light goes out. There is no smoke, no strange noises, no lack in performance and no strange smells. The oil level is definitely ok, but I don't want to just ignore the light and it means I'm not enjoying driving now. I was thinking it could be a faulty sensor, but I don't like the fact that I can predict when it will come on. Could it be the oil pump or the filter? What would cause this?
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Started having problems with my Chevy Malibu (1999, with 95,000 miles on it) while driving two times this week. Both times an alert warning flashed on my dashboard. The first time, flashed the brake check and ABS warning on the left side of the dashboard, and the second time the check oil and check battery warning on the right side. In both cases, after the warnings flashed, the car was still running, but stepping on the gas pedal resulted in no acceleration, but brakes still worked. The steering wheel also locks-up to the point where I can't turn any more. Both times, I stopped and shut off the engine, waited about 30 seconds and restarted, after which everything is fine and normal. The brake pads were changed recently, but not the rotors which may not be in very good shape.
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So a couple weeks ago I refilled the reservoir for coolant because it was low. But the radiator level was fine. Then today I checked the reservoir and it was below the L and the radiator level was a little under as well. What could be causing this? Possibly a hose? I don't think it would be a bad radiator?
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Both engine cooling fans on my 1986 Camry are running all the time; even when the engine is cold.
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I just had the engine in my 2001 Toyota Celica replaced with a rebuild at 145,000 miles (the original engine was burning oil). It runs fine but now every time I fill the tank with gas and start the car it runs for about 15 seconds then dies. This goes on about four times then it runs fine. After the initial dying eposoide the car runs fine until i fill-up again (i usually fill-up when i have avout 1/4 tank left). Before the engine replacement I had no problem like this. The mechanic thought the problem was the fuel pump and replace it and the filter and inspected the tank for debris. I am still having the problem
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My gas gauge is intermittent. most of the time it reads right, but like 30% of the time it shows empty regardless of how full the tank is. What would cause this?
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I have a 2000 celica gt... My motor is making a loud knocking noise at all time.. The other day it completely stop working. It started back after a couple of attempts... I think I need a new motor but idk... What kind of motor will fit and how much or what can I get for the car if i sale it..
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Last oil change at the dealer (they're free) I informed the service desk of some knocking and grinding noises that are happening from time to time in the front end.. and fluid in the driveway.. they did the oil and said they saw nothing... so I have to go back next week for my last free oil change and before I made the appointment, I dropped in to see my regular mechanic.. steering rack is leaking on the passenger side and has been for a while as the fluid is down to the minimum line in the reservoir.
Made the appointment with the dealer, informed them about the noise again and fluid on the driveway.. again. Let's see what they say this time.
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The headlight beam height can be adjusted from inside the car. But even when not fiddling with the dial, I hear an electric motor sounding noise from them time to time, just a short <1s whirring sound. I listen with the bonnet open and I'm pretty sure it's coming from the headlights. Is this normal? is there any way I can stop it?
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So I'm also noticing my car occasionally makes a huge thud sound from time to time when I put it into two certain gears. From park to reverse it's not loud but there's a little noise, but from any gear into Drive it's sometimes a loud boom and the car shakes. My pops mentioned to me this is dangerous because of how the engine is moving underneath the hood when it happens. I just recently changed the dog bone mount, could it be the others? I'm ware that it's wise to change all 3 if you change one but I was on a budget & it was a lot worse before. Someone mentioned it might be my torque converter but I did some research & the two symptoms don't add up. And I'll add once more that this happens occasionally & not every time I switch to a different gear. What it may be?
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My prius 2008 94k miles makes this strange noise from time to time, randomly. What it might be?
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Over the past year we have been noticing that the HVAC blower doesn't turn on from time to time. All settings in the control panel seem normal and the fan speed is turned on. Most of the time everything is working normally, sometimes when the car starts the blower isn't working and then starts after a minute of driving. Sometimes I notice the blower isn't working and I turn up the fan speed and after a few clicks it starts working normally for the remainder of the drive. And then sometimes the blower doesn't ever start and I need to turn off and restart the car a few times. When the blower hasn't been working the a/c compressor has been turning on, something in the blower circuit is failing.
There are five possibilities:
The HVAC controller isn't telling the blower to turn on
The power relay isn't always working
There is a wiring or connection problem
The blower motor itself isn't working
The power mosfet is failing.
What needed to be replaced?
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I own a 2012 Camry Hybrid XLE, but I'd imagine this issue could exist w/ any trim. Hear a slight crinkle/rattle from time to time coming from your headliner area? At times it almost sounds like someone padded your headliner with a plastic grocery bag.
I usually heard it on bumpy roads. I went through a nightmare with my dealer where they had my car for about 40 days trying to figure out the cause. They even replaced the headliner! (they did a lousy job too, w/ lots of oil smudges and scratches on my plastics)
Discovered the real cause of rattle. The sound actually comes from where the sun visor meets the headliner. The white plastic socket (pictured) where the sun visor plugs in has some wiggle room. When the car vibrates (be it from a bumpy road or what have you) it can slide against the interior cut out of the headliner. This makes an obnoxious crinkling sound.
At the moment I'm driving around with no sun visor on the passenger side-- and I also have no rattle (occasionally I might hear it from the driver side sun visor, but it's minor). I'll probably add some foam up there to add some more tension to alleviate the issue completely. Even just re-seating the sun visor and ensuring the screws are tight would probably have significant impact...
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Having problems with the auto-up feature on your windows? Mine seems to randomly stop working from time to time. Only the drivers side has the problem. When the truck was new the dealer re-programmed the computer and put a new window switch in. That worked for a while but the problem keeps coming back. I can easily do the re-programming sequence however the problem always comes back. I have a 2012 Lariat SCREW.
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I have a 2002 Kia Sedona Mini van and it runs real well except for when it rains. i will get the dreaded squeeky belt from time to time while driving in the rain and the van just doesn't seem to run as smoothly...is that possible?
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I am new to the world of maintaining my own car. I had an issue this morning when I drove my 2011 Elantra. The car started jerking from time to time while i was driving. So I ended up going back home and swapping cars. Other than a coming up oil change, what could the issue with my car be? I am at about 43k miles.
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I get a musty odor from my vents from time to time. It usually happens on days when it is damp out and often on startup but sometimes it happens later in the trip. Its quite strong, unpleasant, and terrible for allergies.
I read something about this a long time ago but cannot find the posts. Found a TSB summary on VW's site but Dealer pulled it and says its for Passat. Thinking its something in the A/C or ventilation system.
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Driving last night, I heard this horrible scraping sound from time to time, but I couldn't stop right away. When I got home, I saw that the bottom cover (or whatever the proper name for it is) had come loose at the left front -- I assume from hitting the ground once too often (damn this low clearance). I took a pic, but it's not too clear. The front edge is frayed a bit.
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I have a 2006 mariner that the ABS light is on all the time and the 4WD light flashes 8 times and the vehicle feels like it is in four wheel drive when turning only at slow speeds and usually in reverse but only when the vehicle has sat for a while, as if you parked for a hour then pulled out of the stall and were turning the wheel.
Tone rings on all wheels are good and all speed sensors have good continuity. Have a friend that works at Ford dealership and he got a tech to scan the car for me. Scan showed the left rear wheel sensor at fault so that's what I'll replace.
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94 ford ranger, 4.0L OHC, 4x4 5 speed manual 146,000 ....
So the other day I was driving home and i noticed my battery light was coming on each time i stopped at a red light. Soon after it remained on regardless and the voltage gauge started to drop till it hovered right at the "N" in normal but thinking if my alternator had gone i was best to keep driving rather than having to stop and restart the car again. I shut the radio off and made it home. The next day i grabbed my haynes manual and started going through all the tests of the charging system and everything checked out.
The battery had a full 12.8v at rest and when idling showed 14.3, whats going on? The car didn't have a problem starting the next day and the battery, even now another day later, has a solid 12.8 on it so I don't suspect a drain anywhere. The only thing that i notice is when i tested the resistance on the voltage regulator the manual calls for at least 2.4ohms and mine read 4.0ohms, is that normal? Could it just be that my actual gauge is bad and i am getting a false reading? My only other thought here is maybe the drive belt is a little loose and its slipping when the alternator is under load, but I don't hear a squeal and when i measure the deflection between the alternator and powers steering pump i get a little less than a 1/2".
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Flickering low beam lights for several weeks and I decided to change both bulbs, pretty straight forward job, some 30 minutes for each side but when I went for a drive I noticed that ESP warning light on all the time, looked in the manual, tried to turn it on / off, no change. I can't believe there's a connection between changing the bulbs and ESP?
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