I have a 1995 Celica GT, 5sfe engine, 5 speed manual. Front main crank seal appears to be leaking. I've replaced transaxles before but no timing chains or oil seals. Is the access from the wheel well and fairly straightforward?
View 2 RepliesPassenger differential axle seal is leaking again. It was replaced twice already. My mechanic checked the seal...its not damaged. Its not a excessive leak. Both times, the seal were replaced with OEM. I don't want to buy another one and replace it.
Its a 1995 Celica, 5SFE, 5-speed MT. 98k miles.
I replaced the front mail seal on my 2003 Hyundai Elantra. It was running beautifully until I put it gear to take a test drive. It dumped half the oil in about a minute. After reading online that there may be a problem with the thrust bearings, I pulled the oil pan and found a thrust bearing in the pan. Is this something I could fix without pulling the engine. Every thing looks good and there are no metal shavings or signs of wear. The car has 170k.
View 2 RepliesCouple weeks ago found some oil drops in the drive way so I got Underneath to see this disappointment. Hope the pictures come through for you all to see. She's been in the shop since Monday.
front crank case seal gone bad! what a mess.
My daughter has a 2000 intrepid with i believe a 2.7 engine. the rear main seal is leaking.
View 1 RepliesLast year, I had the unfortunate experience of having to get my engine replaced on a 2003 Infiniti G35 (only 121k miles, I got it used in '06, long story, I assume previous owner didn't take very good care of it). I opted to have a local mechanic find a used engine instead of paying for a rebuilt one and he was able to find one that had ~60k miles on it so I went with it. Now it's 9 months later and I have started noticing a burning oil smell while sitting in the car at a stop. I took it into a shop (not the one that replaced the engine, different tire and lube shop) and they found that the rear main seal was leaking pretty badly and that's where the smell was coming from. They don't do that kind of work so I need to take it somewhere else to get any repair done.
I feel like, if a second diagnosis also says RMS is the problem, that the shop that put in the engine should have given me a new RMS when they put in the used engine. Is it not something that would be visible and thus easily replaced when installing the new engine? If they did in fact replace it, it wouldn't possibly have failed on its own after only 8 or 9k miles, would it? I don't normally hearing about RMS problems until cars are well over 100k miles.
Took my 2014 GX in for 5k miles service even though it has only 1K miles (bought it in Nov 13). The service write up person recommended oil change (10K service). I was cool with that because I still believe in first oil change in 1K miles when the car is new regardless of what car manufacturer says.
After 1 hr waiting, the shop manager told me that my GX needs to stay longer because they discovered a small leak in rear main seal. From what I read on the internet, it is a time consuming repair.
I don't drive the car much, 1k miles in 7 month. It is parked indoor most of the time. I do drive it 5-10 miles every 2-3 wks to cycle the car. I also use battery tender to keep the battery charged.
I was surprised that this happened. My friend's 2014 GX (he bought it because I told him Lexus is much more reliable than his LR3) had his back up camera replaced at 3K miles.
Newly acquired 2011 Santa Fe GL. Recently had a 2008 Azera GLS.
We received the Santa Fe a week ago and have since put 600 km on her. I took her into my work (auto mechanic) to wash and wax, looked underneath the engine and noticed 2 drops of what appeared to be engine oil. Between the transmission and engine block there are 2 10mm vertical bolts. The drops of oil have accumulated on the head of the bolts. There is a small "plate" between trans and engine with oil "weepage". My guess is the engine rear main seal is leaking! Not a small repair and certainly at 600 km.
2011 F-350 CC, 45k miles... Found out yesterday mine is leaking. Way to early for these issues to pop up.
View 1 RepliesI haven't had time to take my truck to the dealer to actually be checked yet but it appears I might have a rear main seal going out from what I can see. I pressure washed the whole underside of my truck the other day and there is fresh oil where the engine connects to the transmission.
My truck is a 2011 with a 2013 engine in it. The truck has 103,900 miles on it. The engine has almost 60,000 miles on it. I have the extended warranty on it which is good. All this truck has to do is last 2 more lousy months and I'll replace it.
2011 Ford F-450 6.7L Diesel 12' Flatbed
Changing out the rear main oil seal on my 1999 F250 Super Duty. I have a 7.3L diesel with 6 spd manual trans. with 98K miles. This past week it has developed a very slow engine oil drip where the engine meets the transfer case. Is it necessary to remove the engine or just the transmission? What does a transmission/transfer case combo weigh? What special tools would I need?
View 1 RepliesLooking for the proper instructions in replacing timing belt and oil seal I have done this on a Honda accord before but I need to know how to properly align everything so I can do it right the first time.
View 2 RepliesJust had my truck in for an oil change at dealership and wanted them to check for oil leak seeing as I started getting drops on my driveway. When I pick up the truck they told me the front crank seal was leaking and possibly the rear main seal. Front was gonna be 650 bucks and the rear was gonna be 1020. Ended up taking truck to local diesel shop and they replaced front crank seal for 300 and said the rear main looked fine. Tech also told me the old seal looked worse than some that came out of engines with 3 times as many miles. 6.4L ...
View 1 RepliesThe engine runs beautifully, but we cannot stop an oil leak. The Machine Shop replaced the front and rear main crank seal three times and it is still leaking. We took the truck to Ford who put the dye in and checked for the leak with a black light.Their analysis was that they would START with the oil pan gasket. We then took that info to the Machine Shop who said they could see the oil leaking from the rear main and front seal again and replaced the seals in it again. There is still oil leaking from the engine. From the same place. Why we can't seem to stop the leak,and ultimately how to fix the problem?
View 15 RepliesRight after i got this truck it developed an oil leak which i thought was the front main. Turns out after a lot if degreaser and watching its not and its actually leaking from a small tube running out of the passenger side of the engine. I think its an oil cooler line but not sure. Its where the cross member is located and i cant get in there very easily or figure out how to load up pics to the site on my phone. What this line may be?
View 7 RepliesWhen I took my Saturn L300 to the dealer recently for its regular oil change I was told that my right front axel seal was leaking and it will cost me $580 to replace. This seems awfully high to me. Am I getting fleeced by the GM dealer?
View 1 RepliesI've got to replace a leaking front crankshaft oil seal. Haynes shows using a steering wheel puller with the two bolts installed, but without the center screw. Insert a socket and extension through the center screw hole. Hold the body of the puller with an adjustable to keep the crank pulley from turning while you loosen the pulley bolt. I've got an air impact. Would that hammer the pulley bolt loose without having to hold the pulley? I've also got a chain vise-grip, but I'm not sure yet if it would clear the other pulleys. Assuming I get this far, should I pry out the seal with a flat screwdriver wrapped in tape? Would it work to cut the rubber out of the seal first?
View 3 RepliesI've got an E4OD trans out of my 1994 F150 4x4. It has 145,000 miles on it. The reason why it came out was because the front seal was leaking terrible. Also the electrical connector for the transmission melted and there is a hole right there now. Other than that the trans shifted fine and worked when I drove it. My question is what can I do with the trans?
View 1 Replies1977 F150 4x4 C6 transmission 351M
I just changed the front seal on my transmission, but its is still leaking as if I never did a thing? Did I miss something or is there something else that could be causing my problem?
I have a 2006 gmc sierra, 4x4, 1/2 ton, has 155,000 miles on it. I recently changed both front hubs on my truck. They didn't have any play in them just noise. I had one new front hub that was leaking grease out of the rear seal. I took that one back off and got a new one. Must have had a bad rear seal. Now I'm getting a front end vibration at highway speeds. Between 70-75mph. It gets worse when turning left when highway turns. It goes completely away when turning right at highway speeds. It doesn't shake in the steering wheel. Feels like its coming from the left front area or left front tire. More in the floor boards. So i rotated my tires, and its not as bad but still is there in the same spot. I've checked everything.
Cv axles have no tears in the boots and aren't spinning out any grease. I turn the steering back and fourth while the truck was on the ground and I didn't notice any play in any of the front end components. The only thing I did notice was the passenger side inner tie rod boot had a bunch of grease built up on it. But the boot was actually full. Could one of the bad wheel bearings caused something else to go bad? Warped rotor? Truck doesn't shake or vibrate when braking either.
So I am on my way home after an honest 8, and I make it a mile down the road and goose the old girl a little off a stop light. Well next thing I know we have smoke rolling out under the hood, well it turns out the "smoke" was r134 refrigerant. The guy that recharged it said that the compressor failed and that its common with retrofits because 134a runs at a higher pressure.
Now I don't need a/c, and I might just leave it as is, but it would be nice to have the old girl working 100%. It also turns out that the front seal of the transmission is leaking, I am debating whether or not to just have the transmission rebuilt. it shifts fine but its gotta come out anyway. Its a 700r4 and the trans guy recommends stronger 3-4 clutches and a shift kit to make the holding pressure higher.