Celica :: Engine Started Sputtering / Acting Like Misfiring
Feb 18, 2013
I have a 92 Celica ST 1.6L 5 speed with 175,000 miles on it. When should I consider getting the timing belt changed?
Also, several months ago the engine started acting up while I was on a long road trip, suddenly anytime I tried to accelerate the engine started sputtering / acting like is misfiring.. It got progressively worse during the trip, so I pulled over and to my surprise there was a significant amount of oil in one of the spark plug 'wells'. After soaking the oil up with a rag and cleaning the spark plug cable/connector the problem has only occurred one time since, and not nearly as much oil was present. It sound like I just need new spark plug cables.
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I recently bought a 92 Celica gt (5s-fe). The engine feels like its misfiring and wont idle on its own.
I've done all the normal maintenance to it and the spark plugs all show normal signs of wear. I haven't verified fuel and spark yet. Check out the video below. The piece of cardboard is to keep the throttle partially open. Also, the exhaust is broken off at the flex pipe so excuse the awesome sound ...
[URL] ....
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I'm wondering if the Fram Toughgard filter is the culprit. First time I'm using this brand. I know this car has had noisy lifter before, but it was all gone for a while, and mysteriously came back after the oil change. It's not the fluid level, which is fine. It should be noted that the lifter noise doesn't happen until the engine is warm and has been taken up to highway speeds.
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What's the deal with making fuel filters difficult to replace? My engine has started sputtering (cutting in and out) and I began to wonder if it was the fuel filter. So, I investigated how to change it. Apparently it's part of the fuel pump and located in the fuel tank -- good grief.
A filter is there to catch stuff, and if it catches stuff it can get clogged, if it gets clogged it has to be replaced. It appears they put in the filter to catch stuff but assumed it never would.
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Recently my clutch started acting strange, the pedal felt softer and eventually after I pressed it in it stayed on the floor. After pumping it, everything went back to normal. Next day, still same thing, no pressure in the clutch pedal. I checked the brake fluid and it's full. There is also no sign of any leak. Took the car to the mechanic, he recommended changing the master cylinder. I changed it but still nothing. I tried bleeding the slave but every time I bleed it, it has air in it. So I'm stuck and don't know what should I do next. I think it might be my slave cylinder but I don't have a place or tools to do it myself. I'm pretty sure the entire tranny needs to be pulled out to remove the cylinder. I also read that most people change the clutch when they replace the slave.
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Today my engine started making loud sputtering sounds, I checked the oil and it was completely gone based on the dipstick. I was shocked since I had an oil change not so long ago. My current millage is 103,500 i assume now at such a millage that oil consumption is very high. I poured some 5-20 synthetic oil in, but my engine continues to make sputtering sounds however, they are less audible now. Is it possible my engine is damaged?
Here's a recording of the engine sounds up close : [URL] .....
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I Purchased a used 2005 . Everything was great all weekend long, but this morning, the car started shaking as I was driving it down the road. I drove my 55 mile commute, parked and took my son in to preschool. The shaking started when I left the school. As I was driving (around 45 mph, accelerating to 55 on flat road), the car had some definite shaking like a sputtering shake, but there was no sputtering noise.
No engine lights are on. Could this be a balancing issue rather than an engine issue? Or possibly a joint? Do these cars even have a flex joint?
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Accent 1.6L. A few weeks after I bought it w 38,000 miles, it started misfiring so I replaced the spark plugs. It ran great for about another 6 months and started misfiring again. I took it to Hyundai to have it fixed and of course it wouldn't do it for them. I told them what it was doing and they said that there was no code so it was probably my spark plugs. I replaced my plugs with the OE plugs and got the same trouble about 4 months later. Now it has 60,000 miles and my warranty is done. I put in new plugs yesterday and it only ran well until it warmed up and it did the same thing. I ordered new, better than OE Delphi coils yesterday and I'll get them today. I feel like there's a bigger problem with the system that's causing the problem with the coils.
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2007 Explorer Sport Trac was misfiring when first started and then would settle down. Now it is misfiring and when I try to drive it, it does quiet a bit of sputtering and has no power. Took it to mechanic he said it would be hard to tell if it was fuel injectors or what.
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My trailblazer started with the spitting and sputtering (misfiring) last week. Over 100,000 miles on it, ya, in need of a tune up. So for obvious reasons new spark plugs seemed to be the logical choice. If it wasn't the problem, it can't hurt to change them. Truck's SES light did not come on, but truck was running pretty crappy, more when it was cold than hot, but definetely a loss of power. There is also a slight exhaust leak starting, where abouts right now I haven't pinpointed, deaf in one ear so it's hard to tell where it is coming from.
So I had my brother in law install the new spark plugs. We took the old ones out and 4 and 5 cylinder plugs had oil on them. Ah great, valve cover gasket and the gaskets the spark plugs sit on (don't ask me, not a mechanic lol) need to be changed. Started with just the plugs for now. Started truck up, still had a bit of vibration on idle, like it would from an exhaust leak, but still didn't seem right . But an even more noticable loss of power when driving, truck doesn't seem to want to get above forty.
Now my SES light is flashing almost consistently unless I'm stopped (idled). It almost feels like the cat is clogged. Did smell a heavier than normal gas smell when changing out the plugs. I know that the flashing SES almost certainly means a misfire. But why would it all of a sudden come on after changing the plugs? Tomorrow I am going to my friends garage who has the scanner tool (not just the one that reads codes) to see if it is a bad coil pack and to see if there is a specific cylinder that is misfiring.
But there is something about that exhaust leak that is leading me to believe it is the culprit of my problems. Leak came first, then the misfiring. Could the cat be clogged, which blew a hole in the exhaust and cause a misfire? And the new plugs just made the misfiring worse to cause the SES light to come on? Is there anything else I should check besides a faulty coil pack and compression check (even though I should have done that when I changed the plugs, but live and learn).
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I replaced my 7AFE engine in my Celica 1997 1.8 with another 7AFE engine. The replacement engine had a different wiring harness, so I kept my original wiring harness.
After the swap, I started the engine and it stopped by itself after about 30-60 seconds.
Now it wont start. I have fuel, but no spark. I have tried three different distributors.
I have tried to read the fault codes, with connecting TE1 and E1, but no engine light lights up in the dash.
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I have a 90 celica, and while I driving today, the engine started smoking. I pulled over and took a look. The smoke was coming from behind the smoke and air filter area. I let it sight for about 2 hours and drove it back home and it wasn't smoking. Both times, it was on the road for about 20 minutes. I got a buddy of mine to take a look and he said that it was caused from the coolant boiling(I didn't think coolant coils boil). And it rained for a week straight, and I haven't driven it since it started raining. Could that have anything to do with it?
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I have a 2013 Hyundai Azera with the 3L V6. I only use 93 octane gas (as recommended) and only use either Shell or Chevron. Each day, when I get in the car for the first time, I can count on it running rough and having inconsistent performance and some minor sputtering or misfiring (don't know the difference) until the car gets warm. Once it gets warm, all is well. It has 24k miles. Any thoughts on what may be the root cause? Should I change the fuel filter so soon? Does that matter being it gets better when it warms up?I change the oil religiously whenever the computer in the car tells me it is time to do so and use Mobil 1 synthetic.
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I have a '99 GT with the 2200 motor. A couple of months ago, it started sputtering around 3000rpm. Over 3600 RPM, runs great. Per my dealer, both cats and o2 sensors were changed. $$$ Did not fix! Local garage found a extremely frayed wire at the crankshaft sensor. There were two EGR codes as well, but were ignored. They changed the wire and the car has ran great for a month. Now it is sputtering again. The garage checked and there are only the same two codes are for EGR issues (I did not write them down). Could it be the EGR? Does it kick in around this RPM?
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I have a problem that has being going on with my 2000 toyota celica gt has been sputtering/jerking when going at a constant speed of about 60 mph. The problem is interment. I have changed everything from cam sensor when it came up on the scanner. Also changed the fuel filter and fuel pump. I changed the spark plugs. No luck the problem went away for about 2 weeks when I changed the fuel pump and filter but it came back. I got it scanned and the only code that comes up is P0420 which is a catalytic converter code. I have no clue where to go from here.
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According to the OBDII, I have a misfire on #3 & #4 cylinders. Im getting codes PO300, PO303, PO304 and PO171.
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My husband bought this car 12 days ago. Had NTB check it out and they said we were good to go.
This afternoon, out of nowhere the car started getting usually hot, even though is was almost freezing outside. (Pic of temp below)
I pulled over and let the car idle for about 10 minutes. It cooled down by an amount so small its not even worth noting. I decided to try to make it home. As I drove it started to drop in temp... The car started sputtering as I slowed down at a red light. It started to shake. Then it cut off. I think I made this worse because I keep stepping on the gas hoping to get it back on. It did but it shook worse and anything close to 20 mph made it shut off again. It did this a total of 4 times before I made it home. Each time I stepped on the gas repeatedly to get it going again.
Once home I popped the hood and the pictures below are what I saw. Its in what I believe to be the radiator overflow. I checked the oil, and I do not see it there. I got down on the ground and looked for other leaks but all I see is the gunky stuff. The consistency is light very watery caramel. There was like smoke coming from the engine and it looks wet (included below).
Called my local repair shop and they are quoting me 3 grand. They said I need to replace the engine. My husband can't get to the car for another week and it is our only vehicle.
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2005 prius battery is not charging . Then check engine light /problem light came on . The vehicle started sputtering and would not accelerate over 25 mph.
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Okay so I haven't driven my car in a couple of days, and when I started it today it started sputtering and shaking like it wasn't getting gas. I let it do this for about ten seconds to see if it would set a check engine light but it didn't. I shut off the car and restarted it, then it ran perfect.
I have had this happen to other cars if I let off the key too fast, but I don't think I did that today, I turned the key the normal amount of time. It only has 20k miles on it.
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I have an Hyundai Accent Petrol 1.6L ABS.
While driving the other day suddenly the car started sputtering or jerking while on low rpm and after changing gears
the exhaust is also making sputtering sounds when on idle.
when I press the accelerator the sputters/jerks and then picks up rpm. the performance of the car does not seem to be affected but petrol mileage has fallen.
when I accelerate slowly then the sputtering/jerking is reduced and sometimes not present much. There is also a deep and heavy sound of the engine running heard inside the car (which has been present before the timing belt change)
I took the car to the workshop and attached the OBD.
the codes P0340 P0112 were present. we now erased the codes and the mechanic checked the sensor wire plugs for the cam sensor and air sensor saying it looks fine. on attaching the OBD again the codes were not present. However the sputtering/jerking continues. (the fuel pump and filter were also checked to be ok)
My Timing belt has been changed approximately a month back. My car does not run much (Approx 40kms a day)
My questions are
1. can a bad timing of the timing belt have anything to do with this and thus giving these codes?
2. Can there be something wrong with the exhaust due to which this problem is taking place?
3. what could be possibly wrong with the car?
4. Can this result in any damage to the engine?
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I have a 2003 Golf VR6. Last weekend the car started sputtering and then died. I haven't been able to get it restarted since. I have already replaced the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump. Since I replaced the fuel pump it will prime when I open the door or when I insert the key. When I go to start it it will only stay running for 5-10 seconds then acts like its running out of fuel and dies. EVERY. SINGLE. TIME.
Its not throwing any codes other than a couple 02 sensor codes telling me its running lean. What to do at this point. I was told that vws have a secondary fuel pump relay under the passenger rear seat that sometimes when it goes bad it will turn on the fuel pump to prime it, but wont kick on when its supposed to stay on. I cant find anything on the interweb about it. The shop I took it to that diagnosed the fuel pump said it wasn't throwing any codes when they scanned it.
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