Celica :: Engine Has Extreme Sputters / Shakes And Hesitation On Acceleration
Feb 7, 2012
I own a Celica '00 and have been driving it for 8 years. In the last year I've noticed that my CEL started coming on. Did some scans and got P0171 error code from Autozone. The Celica was running lean and took some time to accelerate but run fine for a while. It got worse soon and I took it to a mechanic. He diagnosed a bad Cat Converter and he replaced it with an universal one. He also replaced the first Oxygen sensor, Spark Plugs, Fuel Pump and the Mass Air Flow sensor. Car's CEL came back one after 10 miles of driving. At that time I put in a 4" silencer for my muffler. The silencer had a 2.5" opening and worked well to lower the muffler noise.
The CEL was still on and I disconnected the negative on the battery to see if I can reset it. Well, once I connected it back and tried to turn on my Car all hell broke loose. The engine now has extreme sputters, shakes and hesitates to accelerate above 5-10mph. I barely drove it back to the mechanic. He still is not sure what the problem is, he thinks replacing the other sensors and troubleshooting the coils should be the next step. I'm wondering if my silencer could have caused any damage? Also, I'm wondering if there is valve damage inside the cylinder? The code we're getting now is Cylinder 4 misfire. What about the Fuel filter? I don't think it has been changed at all. The car is at 122,000 miles right now.
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I have a 2002 Nissan Xterra with 94K miles on it. Sometimes after I start the car it shakes and sputters. This has been going on for a couple weeks and I didn't really think anything of it. Today as I was backing out of a spot, the car started shaking again and then the engine died and the check engine light came on. What that could be?
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So I just recently bough a Celica GTS off an old friend, and the test drive went smoothly. Bought of course, as soon as I got it home, things started going bad.
Sitting in the driveway for a moment, I started to feel the car shake when the engine was idling. I ran the engine up to 1.5K RPMS and it smoothed out, but you could still feel it, just barely. As soon as you let it drop down to the 1K, its horrible again.
Temperatures were fine, no trouble codes. I've Isolated it to the 2nd cylinder from the right, and I've already checked plugs/wires and done compression tests on all 4 cylinders. Fuel injectors are also working fine.
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I recently changed out my stock clutch for a SB Stg.2 endurance clutch. Under hard acceleration my car has developed a serious vibration. I had all four tires road forced balanced but this did nothing. It almost feels as if I have a bent wheel but had no issues prior to the install.
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When I press on gas the engine hesitates as if it's going to stall and the acceleration takes effect only after 2 seconds or around there! The check engine light is also on.
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Loving our new SF, but have noticed a problem periodically when starting out from a dead stop. When the accelerator is pushed, sometimes there is a hesitation in the engine. Almost feels like the gas has been restricted for a second, then it engages and goes. I've notified the dealer and plan to have them look into it at my first oil change, but it is happening more frequently and think it may be something I need to get looked at sooner than later.
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I have an 01, early model, AWD Passat wagon, v6, GLX and when I accelerate from a standstill or a slower speed, the car hesitates slightly and coughs(?) and then catches on and accelerate. It doesn't actually backfire or misfire.
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The engine idles beautifully. However, the engine hesitates upon acceleration. Once the engine reaches approximately 2000 rpms the engine smooths out and runs well. This is even more noticeable when the AC is running.
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I just purchased an l/certified 2013 RX 350 (34K miles) this past weekend. I did not notice these issues on my test drive. I've started to notice that when taking my foot off the gas pedal (while not resting near the break pedal) the vehicle goes through a series of easy coasts and then some resistance (as if using an engine as break on a truck with a manual t,) then returning to a smooth easy coast.
I've also noticed that when accelerating at a slow speed from stop (I'm in traffic) there is a bit of a hesitation, like turbo lag, yet this has no turbo. The lag seems to be there even if I want to accelerate aggressively.
I hate to get tied up with a dealer service department already.... "Cant duplicate," or "that is normal operation," or "Computer codes check out." Looking for reinforcing information so I don't have to take it in once a month for an unknown amount of time.
Of our three other cars (2015 Prius, 2002 Nissan Altima, and (pre-tran fail) 2002 honda odyssey) none experience anything like this.
Our household is dumping a 2002 honda odyssey for repeated transmission failures never covered with goodwill. All service was at a h dealership and manufacturer schedule was followed. I'm already sensitive to the manufacturer/dealer relationship.
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I bought a pre-owned 2015 Sonata Limited in November. I only had less than two weeks before the car hesitated upon acceleration and the check engine light came on. At the time, I thought it was a loose gas cap as I'd just gassed up. I took it to the dealership, they pulled the code and it said to replace the accelerator pedal. That required a second trip to the dealership 2 weeks later when they completed the work. Two weeks later and the light came back on. I took it back and asked them to keep it until they found and fixed the root cause while I took a loaner. They kept the car about 2 weeks and when I picked it up, I found that no work had been completed. Two days (!!) later the light came back on.
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My 92 Celica 5SFE 2.2L auto sputters at half throttle. But if I release gas pedal, performance normalizes. I already changed spark plugs cables, ignition coil fuel filter, spark plugs, cleaned injectors, replaced timing belt, engine starts right up and idles a bit high, around 1300 RPM when cold in Park, then when warm 800 RPM in drive. I don't know if it's an electrical issue or a vacuum related issue, spark plugs get carbon fouled after driving like this. I'm tired of having all the newer cars pass me by and my car "running" on 3 pistons.
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I think my car has a vaccum leak. The car cranks ok, but it has a lope to it and when I try to drive it, it hesitate when I step on the gas and sputters, every since I cleaned the engine. I checked all the vacuum lines and found two that were broken or split. I replace those lines I also check the air intake vinyl connection to the throttle body it wasn't slpit. Well I didn't see a split in it. So I put it back together and cranked it. You can hear a vacuum leak sound near the fire wall. I pulled each vacuum line off one at a time and checked them again and found nothing. Could this be the intake plenum? I hat to take it to a mechanic when it is something simple that I could fix.
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I am noticing a extreme lag in acceleration. When taking off from a stop it lags really bad then acts like I floored it. My FMP is 48 sometimes dropping to 47.5. FLP is 13 sometimes dropping to 11.5 during starting. Occasionally it doesn't want to start, like its not getting fuel. New batteries 3 months ago. Also has blue spring. Its a 2005 thats never had anything done to the FICM, so its kind of old to begin with. I read in another thread that the FICM relay should be replaced occasionally, so may that could be contributing to some of my probs.
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Lately I have been having some trouble with 2002 Oldsmobile Alero v6. When the car is sitting in park I have noticed that the engine idles roughly, And when I try to drive it, the car hesitates on the acceleration every now and then. Also the emissions light (the orange one) will come on for awhile and then dissapear. At first I though it was dirty fuel injectors so I added some Fuel injector cleaner, but that has not fixed the problem. I was thinking the park plugs may need replacing?
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I posted a while back about my 04 5.4 having an issue at idle. I did all the normal things like replace coil, spark plug, etc etc. No change to the issue. It still acts as though it's misfiring on a cylinder and I get codes P0306 and P0316. Finally took it to ford and had a diagnostic check ran. Everything on the top end was in working order. The tech even put a known working coil on 6 and nothing changed. I was told that it's either an intake or valve issue on that cylinder. But no definite answer to problem.
Fast forward to yesterday. I got a wild hair at lunch and went out and started truck. Pulled injector plug off of 6. No change to the way it was running. I did the same for 5, 7, 8, 1, and 2. All of which made a big difference in the way it ran. It was obviously misfiring with no fuel to cylinder. This gave me the idea to swap 5 and 6 when I got home to see if the issue followed the injector from 6. I did NOT. I pulled the plug on 5 and got the obvious change in the way it ran. So there is definitely something going on at cylinder 6 that I cannot figure out.
PCM, bad intake, bad valve? I'm not rich so a trip to ford for repair is gonna have to wait. Truck seems to run fine when driving except for slight hesitation during acceleration.
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My 96 Explorer has been sputtering on me. I took a right turn one day and now its sputters at acceleration. It has a new fuel pump, filter, injectors, coil pack, plugs, wires, idle sensor, EGR valve. Also, all vacuum lines are good and not cracked or broken. My mass air flow sensor is also clean and clear. I have done all my own repairs on my cars and trucks all my life and thought I was good at it (not so sure about that now).
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Its a 1991 Toyota celica with the 1.6 and 5 speed trans. the motor on cold or hot start up shakes really bad and has a lot of valve chatter. Along with that, the motor does not want to rev at all, almost like you are not even touching the gas, but you have it to the floor. A little back ground on the car is, the car sat for 6 months and i bought it from a friend to drive back and forth to work to keep miles of my supra. He said that the CAT was plugged so i replaced it. I have replaced the coil pack, distro cap, spark plug wires, spark plugs, rotor button, catalytic converter, air intake, and all the air tubes that looked like they were cracking. Now I can start the car, and it does the same thing. I thought it may be out of time, just because that is sort of what its acting like. I have had the motor rev up 3 times since i have had the car. But everytime I do it back fires and DIES, the car will not start til after the car cools down.
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I have a 2006 Ford Explorer 4.0 V6 that when speed up around high 4 gear entering 5 from what I can hear (it is an automatic) it sputters slightly and you can feel the acceleration kinda die or cut out for a millisecond. I connected the OBD reader and no codes. I noticed the check engine light came on and then off so I replaced the spark plugs replaced and transmission fluids, checked all fluids and leveled them then replaced the fuel filter while I was at it. Drove around for a day like normal did about 50 miles no lights came on but then today while driving in the morning when I accelerated to around 55-60 entering 5 gear the car did the sputtering and loss of acceleration again and no lights or codes.
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I have a 2001 Toyota celica GT auto. It has 120k miles. I seem to have an issue that really is not causing a problem except for annoyance. After coming to a stop the car seems to exhibit the signs of stalling (car idles rough, shakes a bit) however the car never stalls. Once I start driving all is well. Now I took it to the dealer and they replaced the Idle Air Control Valve which is under the throttle body. They said it was getting stuck and due to the higher mileage possible. It was replaced and the problem is still there. The funny thing is even though the car exhibits these stalling symptoms the idle does not drop below 500 rpm (both dealer and I have verified this).
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My car is misfiring, as in acceleration 90% sputters until I lay the pedal to the ground, which obviously isn't good for my gas. What do I do? I can't find anything online and I don't want to be throwing money into things that don't work.
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Once again my Celica is having a similar issue. Originally over 6 months ago i had an issue with my MAP Sensor which was causing extreme hesitation issues and the car was basically not safe to drive in traffic.
The issue that is now occurring is that i can start my car fine and drive around on flat normal roads with no issues but ive noticed once i go up a steep or decent hill/driveway the car will start to bog down around 1500-2100 RPM.
Once it starts to play up it continues to do so even on flat roads.
Have Checked:
- MAP Sensor - OK
- Distributor - OK
- Leads - Old but still ok, plan to replace later.
- Spark Plugs - Ok
- Spark Plug Wells - They had oil in them few weeks ago, cleaned out and hasent returned.
- Need to replace Valve cover gasket to fix this i believe.
- Fuel is ok.
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