Celica :: Downstream O2 Sensor In Upstream Spot - No Power?
Jun 22, 2013
I actually found headers for my 5sfe and I took them cleaned them up real well and put them on.
The problem I am having is that the o2 sensor space on the headers is for the threaded style sensor and the upstream that comes stock is the bolted on style although the downstream does have the threads.
Can I take the downstream o2 sensor and put it in the slot and since I have put on headers it takes out the cat will this make the car run like crap? also I have tried to take it down the street with just the headers and I had almost no power.
would this be caused by the downstream o2 sensor in the upstream spot and no exhaust other than the headers?
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I recently had my Hyundai Entourage (2008) come up with the following engine codes: P0057 and P0037, both related to the downstream oxygen sensors. The generic description of the code is heated oxygen sensor heater control circuit low. As I understand this code, it is signaling that there is too much current passing through the heater circuit. The oxygen sensors test out OK for resistance, around 10 Ohms each and disconnecting them entirely and rerunning the test after driving a few times yields the same code. So I suspect the issue is not with the sensors but either the wiring or the ECU. I'd be a little surprised at a sudden short in the wires for both sensors but I suppose stranger things have happened. Oh and the fuse for the oxygen sensors has not blown. I am correct in reading these codes to mean there is an apparent short? Or are there any other things that could cause this to happen?
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If the upstream pre-cat sensor is bad could it cause a P0421 CEL error? 2001 Mazda Protege L4 2L 116,800....
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My accent (2001, 1.6L, with 179k miles) has service engine soon light on. Brought it to autozone and they said the upstream O2 sensor needs to be replaced. I borrowed the socket to take out the O2 sensor. It's very difficult even with the tool, because the O2 sensor was stuck with a lot of rust. I used an extension bar to get it out finally, but now when i tried to put the new sensor in, I found the hole's thread is very loose. Tried very hard but can't get the new sensor in securely. It seems I had to replace the whole exhaust manifold. The manifold is very expensive(because it has a build in catalyst converter). I'm wondering is there a way to make the O2 sensor in secure without replacing the whole thing? if I had to replace the manifold then I probably will just get rid of this car.
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I just bought an 04 camry 4 cylinder. It was running perfect when I got it but the moment we got home it threw a CEL. The code was for an upstream o2 sensor, however I did a resistance test and the heater circuit is fine. I did a voltage test on the blue and white wires and I got 3.3v and 2.9v. I don't remember which wire gave me which voltage at the moment. I would like to know if this data is a good thing or if it's broken. I do not have any data to go off of, and I couldn't find the factory service manual online. Its also worth mentioning that it idles very rough and the catalytic converter is giving a rotten egg smell but not all the time. When neither of these things happen the CEL goes away. I do not want to start throwing parts at it.
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This issue pertains to a 2006 Camry LE 4-cyl.
My check engine light came on - code P0032 (upstream O2 sensor). I bought a new sensor from O'Reilly Auto Parts. After installing the new sensor, the car would jerk while accelerating. This continued to happen until roughly 30 miles or so when the engine light came back on and the jerking stopped! I re-scanned the car and it showed the same error - P0032. I then erased the code, and the jerking issue resumed.
I assumed this was caused by a faulty O2 sensor. I returned and got another one. Same issue.
Is this the result of not getting an OEM sensor from the dealer? Or is there something else I should be worried about?
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I have a 2001 Exrursion 5.4L V8. The code P1131 comes up and it says "Lack of upstream heated oxygen sensor switch - sensor indicates lean - bank #1". I hear it could be the sensor that is bad or there is a vacuum leak. It runs like a champ, no spitting, no sputtering, no missing, no ruff idle. What do I need to do to fix it or where do I need to start looking?
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I just bought a '98 Ranger 2.5l 2wd. After driving it for a week or so I got a P1405 Code. After a quick google search I got :
P1405 Ford - DPFE Sensor Circuit Upstream Hose
Possible Causes: - Faulty Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic (DPFE) sensor (EGR pressure sensor)
- Plugged or damaged EGR tube
- Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic (DPFE) sensor harness is open or shorted
- Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic (DPFE) sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Now, I have done my research between forums and youtube and have found this EGR system to be quite. I've gone ahead and replaced my DPEF. I took an air hose and blew out all the small lines coming into the DPEF. I still have the engine light. My next move is to get a volt meter and see if I'm getting power to the sensor.
My question is about this particular code and is it possible I need to look farther into this EGR system (EGR Valve, EGR Hose, etc.)
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I have a blind spot sensor option on ny is, but im curious about where it is located beside the mirror icon. I dont have those visible circle sensors on my rear bumper.
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I have removed the 12mm bolt and disconnected the speed sensor. The problem is that the speed sensor will not come out of the transmission. Is there a pin or something else that needs to be done to remove this speed sensor?
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I connected in a Y fitting at the VVTL oil pressure sensor, attached a good quality mechanical pressure gauges and found I am getting no pressure at this point ... therefore, no lift. I put on another Y fitting at the pressure sensor by the oil filter and found the oil pressure is factory spec (20 psi at idle and 75 psi at 3000 rpm)
I pulled apart the VVTL OCV, checked the filter (OK) and checked to see if there was anything that would cause problems ... nothing obvious I have oil pressure in the engine - there appears to be oil circulating in the top end of the engine as there is a lot of oil up there but no oil pressure at the OCV
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I have a 2000 Celica GT and I suspect the coolant temp sensor has gone bad....the fans are not turning on and I'm not getting any hot air out of the heater.....where is the coolant temp sensor located on this thing?
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Just started the truck after not running for a few weeks and drove around fine. Looked down and suddenly a CEL was indicated. Checked it with my Edge Evolution diagnostic mode and Code P0161 came up 2nd bank downstream heater circuit fault. I've also have an exhaust leak in the right passenger side exhaust manifold for about the last year. I've been waiting to install my newer 03' used engine when time and funds permit.
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What is the location of the speed sensor on a 1991 automatic .. According to Haynes it is under the air filter but know matter how hard i look i cannot locate it .. Could it be that mine is an import from Japan so will have a different location ..
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I am getting the code for the camshaft position sensor. Erase code, comes back immediately. I don't even think this car has a camshaft position sensor.. I guess the first step would be locating the little bugger. Crankshaft position sensor is new and seems to work fine. Car is running btw.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Celica GT, automatic with 177,000 miles, it has been very well maintained. I started having a problem usually just after starting when it is still not completely warmed up. I try and shift it into reverse or drive, and the shifter says it is in those gears, but the car acts like it is in neutral. Once it gets a little warmer I can try it again and it will slowly shift into reverse or drive, usually though the rpm's seem to go a little higher than normal while it shifts. It seems to drive pretty well after this, shifting-wise, but not exactly perfect.
When it is completely warm though it usually drives really well - mostly I do a lot of highway driving. The transmission fluid is full, and looks perfect, nothing in it, not burnt. Previous owner had it changed a few years ago I believe. The check engine light is on and the codes are Speed Sensor A P0500, P0770 Shift solenoid E. My speedometer also works perfectly by the way. I don't have a lot of good shops around and I feel like the ones that are closest to me will see dollar signs in their eyes when they see that transmission code and will just try and replace the whole transmission right off the bat.
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I have a 2003 Variant V6, 34,000 miles - I was pulling out of a parking spot and the car had no "power". but eventually it kicked in..then when I got home I noticed that the brake lights stayed lit...no problem, I pulled the fuse so the battery wold not run out...put the fuse back in for the ride to the dealer, but a block out and again no power - depressing the gas pedal had no effect. Could these be related? The cars been at the dealer all day, they have no clue so far. I had the fuel pump replaced under recall...could it be some sort of electrical problem.
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I have a 1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera with 235,000 miles which last summer started to lose power going up hills and then stalled when I pulled into a parking spot. After sitting 20-30 minutes car restarted and drove fine. At the time a mechanic recommended tune up and replace fuel filter. Because money was tight, I could only replace the fuel filter, which actually improved driving performance.
But a few months later, when I started the car the idle was very rough, at 35-40mph the car felt like it was driving over those street cut outs, acceleration capability dropped...got a tune up but it hardly fixed the problem. Mechanic thought the ignition module was bad, but a new one didn't cure the rough idle. Fuel pressure was normal and the injectors seem to be working fine.
Since the tune up, there's strong gas smell outside the car (lessens after engine runs a while), gas consumption has dramatically increased, and the engine shuts off repeatedly when slowing to turn into a parking spot or turning car around in the street. This winter cold killed my battery so the first thing I need is a new battery, after that then what? Should I get a compression test? What could be causing these engine performance problems?
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So I'm coming home from the gym and the truck is running fine all the way until i get to my apartment and I notice its vibrating more than usual and as I am turning into my parking spot the truck starts running really rough, like when idling in drive it doesn't just go forward it lurches forward and then the rpm drops and then lurches forward and then the rpm drops.. Know what I am saying? I was low on fuel (light had just came on) so I was worried maybe i was running out of fuel (kind of seemed like it) and turned the truck off immediately because I didn't want to run it out of fuel.
Went to the gas station got a 5 gallon can and filled it up with diesel turn it on and its still running rough, like when you put your hand over the exhaust its not a constant flow but more like a puff puff puff and you can hear it too, I tried again this morning thinking maybe it would magically go away but nope still the same thing, if i put it in drive and try and let it idle it struggles even more. Should I be worried about letting it run or driving it while its running bad? I was thinking maybe it would go away if i let it idle for a while? but I don't want to ruin anything so i just turned it off.
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The service truck threw a CEL, and i pulled oxygen sensor performance bank one sensor one code. That would be driver side sensor between the manifold and cat, rite? Don't want to change the wrong one...
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My brother was the original owner then passed it on to me. I then passed it on to my younger cousin about two years ago. The car is completely stock and has never been modified. Everything is OEM.Just a couple of weeks ago I was called by my cousin saying the car broke down on her .The problem is that we took it to a few mechanic shops but they still haven't fixed it ...
Problem with car: When pressing on the gas, the idle drops and then the car dies (a scary event that happened to us and on a main road). I do not wish to bring it to another fail mechanic shop.What the shops did: changed all fluids, distributor cap and plugs, new spark plugs, and replaced air intake piping with oem piping.
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