Celica :: Car Suddenly Stalled When Exiting Off The Freeway
Jan 24, 2012
I finally drove the Celica for the first time to work after rebuilding the front end. As I was exiting off the freeway the car suddenly stalled. I coasted into the lot and tried to restart. The car struggled to restart and when it finally restarted it ran extremely rough with a lot of metal on metal clatter. I tried to drive it to the other end of the parking lot and the clatter got worse and worse. Sounds like the contents of a tool box in a paint shaker.
It's always run great prior to this. The only thing that seems to have changed is the work I did to the front end and the replacement of some seals on the timing chain cover. The car still has oil but I can see oil splatter on the bottom of the distrubutor. I'm going to have it towed home in the morning.
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2004 gli , 1.8t , 136k , 6 speed
The car started misfiring after exiting the freeway, at the light it felt like it was gonna cut off. The brake pedal is stiff like the car is off. When it's idling is when it's most noticeable. It smoothed out after 2nd gear at like 35mph but still not right. The pedal thing has never happened before but I knew the sputtering was the coils, so I had it scanned and sure enough. 5 codes.random misfire.. random misfire all four cylinders.. so I bought 4 and replaced the old ones.. Changed the Sparks as well. No change.. The cel came back on..still idling rough.. What it could be.
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For some stupid reason, my truck decided to lose power today when exiting the freeway. D/s egt gauge verified it with no increase in temp when stepping on go pedal. After about a minute, I could feel it gain power. So, rolled into fuel station, and topped off tank. While filling, I popped the hood and started messing with the uvch and looking around. It was then I noticed that darn hose riding on top of a ton of wires. Pulled said hose up and sure enough, a wire is shafed clean off of insulation. Anyway, something to check while looking around under there....
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My 2011 Santa Fe stalled while I was going 60 mph on a major freeway at 10:30 pm. It was very dangerous and scary, but I was able to pull off to the side of the road and get towed to safety. The "malfunction light" came on and the dealership said it had a code of PO638. They were aware of the problem and performed a software upgrade.
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I'm at a loss here, I bought a salvaged 2001 Prius at an insurance auction and fixed it up. After driving it for about a year the car suddenly dies on me in the middle of the freeway and i had to pull it over. the car hasn't started since. I can get it to turn on but the engine won't turn, and whenever I turn the steering wheel more than 45 degrees it makes this electrical sound the wheels jerks back to the original position and the PS message beeps on. I brought it to a dealership and they said it was a problem with the transaxle but they weren't sure.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Rav4 that just had an oil change and air filter replacement a little over a week ago. Today I was driving when the oil light suddenly came on (for the first time ever) followed by the check engine light. The car would not accelerate with pressing the gas and slowly came to rest on the side of the road. I tried to restart it and it made some noise but didn't start. I did check the oil and it is showing that its full.
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Okay, So this has happened to me about five times now over the past year or so. I will be driving and my car will literally shut off. yesterday, I was driving on the freeway and was just cruising at 75mph when all of a sudden out of no where my car makes a big jolt and then the rpm's go from around 3k to 0. I have had this in the shop for this problem many times and no one can really seem to figure out what is wrong. when my car shuts off while im driving, the oil light comes on, traction control light comes on, as well as the battery light. What's even more weird about this problem is once the car stops, if i try to start it right away it wont fire up... It will just roll over. But. if I wait for a while the car starts and drives normal with all the lights off. This is not only annoying but very dangerous.
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My 2006 stalled twice yesterday. Was running normally, then suddenly stalled after driving for 10 minutes. Error message said something like "insufficient power available". Started up fine after that, but a few miles later had the same problem.
Some potentially relevant background. The night before these two stalls I got some cheap gas from a no name station. A month earlier my car had a really rough start and check engine light came on, but it drove fine. Mechanic diagnosed a leak in the air intake tube (into turbo, I think), and replaced it. He said he got some strange codes though. (120D, 121B, 216D, 21E0 for air mass meter and fuel trim, and also control module comm code E000, 710B, 900B).
He said if the problem reoccurs I probably need an air mass sensor replacement. Thoughts?
Given it restarts so easily, I'm not too concerned re driving the ~10 miles to my mechanic, but I'll be avoiding highways and rush hour. Or, do you think, I can damage the car by driving to the mechanic?
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I have a 2003 new beetle with a manual transmission. It has about 60K miles. I was driving down the freeway (about 60mph steady, not stop and go), and my car suddenly lost all acceleration. Pressing on the gas did not rev the engine. Otherwise, my car was on. I pulled over and put it in first and it still would not go. However, when I turned my car off and back on, it started like a charm and I was able to move and accelerate. .
I took it to the mechanic and they could not find anything wrong with it except that the battery was low. I don't think that could be the problem, could it? I'd hate to bring the car back out on the freeway, but how can I fix it if there's nothing wrong with it.
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The engine of our VW Passat 2000 quit suddenly while driving home on freeway. Night. Rain. We put on the flasher lights as we were slowing while trying to move to the right lane. No shoulder as we we were on a bridge. Do not remember being rammed from behind. Had a new battery installed one month earlier after VW mechanics could find no reason for intermittent non-starting of car which we had been experiencing. They had run "fault codes".
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OK so here's the deal. Driving around town @ lower speeds I've yet to have this problem. When driving at freeway speeds seems like between 1/4 tank & reserve all of a sudden the power just drops off . I mean like the ignition has been turned off. No throttle response .. nothing..... just begins coasting & dropping speed. When throttle is depressed... totally dead. This lasts for about 5-10 seconds then after coasting & looking where to pull off the highway all of a sudden the engine kicks back in like nothing ever happened. Where to look for Jetta MK 4 18T Fuel supply problem??
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Weeks ago, I was waiting for someone with my car idling and suddenly it just stalled. The battery power was still on but the engine died. When I restart it, it starts up but then dies after a few seconds. After trying 3-4 times it no longer starts. I had it towed to the repair shop and by the time they went to look at it, it started up just fine. A few days later I was driving (like 1 min from my house) and the car engine died, again the battery was still working. Power steering was gone. I coasted off the road and tried to start it--again it would start up and then die and then after a few tries it no longer starts. I had it brought to the repair shop. Again, it started fine for them but they changed out the battery just to see. I also had fuel cleaner put in the gas tank.
Just to be safe, I brought it to a dealer since my normal mechanic couldn't find anything. At the dealership they ran codes and didn't find any. They said that sometime the lines to the cams or crank get corroded but that mine looked fine. Since it wasn't doing it for them, they didn't have any other recommendations. Everything has been fine for the last few weeks and then I went to start my car last night. It started fine even though it's really cold and hasn't been driven in a few days. While I was scraping the car, I could hear the engine turn off. When I re-started it the same pattern happened--restarted the first few times and then died and then wouldn't even start. I don't even know what to do at this point since it only seems to happen close or at home and not for repair places.
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While driving with cruise control set at 80 mph in my 2002 Toyota Camry, the engine suddenly revved up to 4200 rpm while going up a hill on the freeway. I was wondering if this sudden high rpm could do damage to the engine? The car has 163,000 miles on it.
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Yesterday, for the first time ever, car had to be towed to the dealership for some major problem. My dad was driving to work with his car , a 2003 GLS V6, and suddenly it stalled in the middle of the road. Turns out it was the fuel pump that caused it. Never mind the expenses which is ridiculously high and can't do anything about it (yes, i'm loyal to my dealer). His car had 129399kms on it plus a km to the dealer and mine had 70136km for a 2002 GLS V6.
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I have a 2002 Celica GT.
It was driving fine for a few months after buying it and now all of a sudden it will just die while driving down the road. It will start and idle fine for hours but after about 15 minutes of driving it down the road it will just die without any kind of notification. It will start back up and run again after I let it sit for 15-20 minutes but will do it all over again but if I try starting it right after it dies, it will start and immediately die again. The only codes it is reading is the #1 spark plug is misfiring, but it has been that way since I bought the car.
I was told to clean the O2 sensor and throttle body, which I did and it ran fine for a few days but is back to dying randomly.
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I have a 98 Celica GT convertible that had suddenly lost fifth gear, and what I mean by loosing fifth gear is not that it pops out of fifth or that it will not go into fifth, the gear shift lever goes into the fifth gear position just fine and stays in that position, yet the car responds as if it is in neutral. This is what happened while driving home recently. The first time this happened was within a week or so of having my clutch replaced, so I took it back to the mechanic that replaced my clutch.
Upon investigation he found that the nut that holds fifth gear in was loose. He tightened this nut and it fixed the problem for awhile. This was now over two years ago, and to make a long story short, I eventually ended up having to replace that transmission with another used transmission from a salvage yard. The current transmission has been in the vehicle just over a year and a half with no problems until now. I am getting this same problem again, with no fifth gear.
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I was driving home from campus yesterday, and as I approached about 50mph, the Celica suddenly revved into higher RPMs, all the while slowing down. I pushed the gas pedal, which only worsened the problem. I was able to limp the car home. About an hour later, I tested the car again, and the problem remains: Accelerate to about 35-50, then get high RPMs while the car slows down and jumps forward.
I suspect a transmission problem, accentuated by a loose wheel bearing that I haven't been able to afford to get fixed yet. My Celica is an automatic, with about 213000 miles on it.
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Three weeks ago I started my truck as usual in the garage and let idle for couple minutes. Backed out of garage and accelerated, then it stalled, started again and drove about 150-200 feet and stalled again. This repeated two more times and then I decided I better try and "limp" back to the house. It has been in at the service dept. for three weeks now and they first told me it was the fuel pumps. Now they say its the fuel transfer pump, don't know if there is a difference.
My service dept has no straight.
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Automatically lock doors 30 seconds after exiting car. I have found a maker of a simple module that can be easily added under the dash with five wires. easy to install and does NOT require integration into the databus (CANbus) system. Installed on 2011 GenIII currently.
The processor looks for the (+) ignition to be turned on, then waits for it to go back off. It then looks at the (-) door pin input and waits for the door to open then close again. At that point, there is an LED output that starts flashing slowly for 20 seconds. During this 20 second period the processor is monitoring both the ignition input and the door pin input - if either of them toggle their state the timer pauses, then starts over once both signals are clear.
After 20 seconds the module outputs a short beep through an external hood mounted beeper and then the LED starts flashing quickly for 10 seconds, while the processor continues to monitor the inputs (and resets to the very beginning if something changes). At the end of this 10 second period the module outputs a (-) door lock signal. Finally, the LED output flashes at a slow rate to simulate an aftermarket security system.
LED and beeper optional when installing.
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So once in awhile, after I park my car, turn it off, then open my door, the inside of the car would beep, as if I were to leave with the lights still on, except my lights are off. On the MID screen, there are no error messages.
Sometimes it's one long beep (about 1.5 seconds)
Occasionally it will be just repeating short beeps.
Doesn't happen all the time, just once in awhile.
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Got my 2016! 324 miles ... and only 120 of those miles are mine, dammit. First brand new car. Lights came on as I was exiting the highway, dealer is right there. They gave me CC loaner, and said they wanted my car for the day.
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