Celica :: Burning Oil Smell Occasionally - Puddle Four Inches Across Under The Car
Dec 4, 2012
So it appears I have another oil leak to contend with. I recently took the Celica on a road trip to Las Vegas, about 600 miles round trip. During the trip I would occasionally smell burning oil and upon retuning home I saw a puddle of oil, maybe four inches accross under the car. The only sign of leaking oil I could find on the car is at the front of the motor, coming from underneath the oil cooler, everything else is clean. It looks like the burning oil smell was from oil dripping on the exhaust but the puddle was farther back on the passenger side. How would the leaking oil pool farther back on the passenger side instead of directly under the actual leak? All the seals were replaced when the motor was swapped, so I can't see something on the timing belt side leaking.
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My mechanic cannot figure out what's wrong with my car My car is a manual trans 1996 Toyota Corolla with almost 154K miles. I had the oil changed two weeks ago (about 1000 miles with my commute), and at that time, I let my mechanic know that it's been losing oil and so check it over. At that time, he changed the oil, cleaned the engine, and added a dye to the oil to show up any leaks.
I took it in this past Thursday for him to locate the leaking, and the mechanic let me know that 1) It came in mostly dry (no oil), 2) there was no visible leaking except for a seepage around the oil pan, which he says could not account for the loss of 4 quarts of oil in two weeks, and 3) it's not burning it out in the exhaust system.
A bit of the history of the car. I got it when it was at 59K, used, and there were a number of things wrong with it that I didn't discover until later, such as that no maintenance had been done to it at all in the 60K someone else had owned it. It came to me needing a timing belt, brakes, and an engine and radiator flush (the radiator fluid was brown instead of green).
At one point at around 70K, as a stupid teenager, I did let it run dry. The oil light came on, I panicked, shut it off, dumped in two quarts (which brought it to full on the dipstick, which I thought was weird), and took it straight for an oil change, where they told me it was dry, which was odd, because I'd just put 2 quarts in it.
After that, there were no issues until it hit about 120K. At that point, I started smelling burning oil and there was smoke coming from under my hood, so I towed it to my mechanic at the time. He replaced the valve cover gasket, the rear main seal, and the head gasket (with engine block machining and all). That more or less cleared the problem up, but then I took it across the country on a 3K road trip, and it ended up accidentally running dry again. Oil light came on, I shut it off, dumped in oil, took it for a lube job.
Since that time, it's been occasionally throwing me an oil light when I go downhill (I figure that this is because it's low but not out, and the change in pitch reduces the pressure?). Each time it does this, I've shut it off, coasted to a stop, dumped in 2 quarts (which brings it to full on the stick), and gone on, berating myself. These times have become more frequent, however, even though I now check the oil regularly.
So before I endure the deserved lectures about being dumb, yes, I blame myself, but regardless of my lazy maintenance, it's becoming ridiculous. My car is now finding a way to lose a gallon of oil over the course of 1000 miles, with no discernible leak or consumption.
Also, why my oil light comes on when it's only 2 quarts down on the stick sometimes, and then sometimes goes almost dry without throwing the oil light? I just got it back with the oil topped up, more dye in the engine, and instead of going for 2 weeks, I'm going for 1 week to see if maybe he can catch it in the act of learning this magic trick of vanishing oil.
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I felt a sudden heavy vibration in steering wheel on my gen 7 Celica. At first, I thought it was wheel balancing or uneven road surface (which is very bad in my area); but discovered later, burning smell from nearside (left) front wheel, all 5 lug nuts loose, whole wheel very hot, break binding. I had driven about 15 miles on 2 occasions when I experienced the vibration. But the vibration wasn't there all the time - only at certain speeds and road surface, which made me think it was just wheel balancing; (checked other wheels everything ok). Don’t know how long brake was binding for.
It seems the piston is not retracting under normal operation so causing the binding. As to the nuts coming loose; I think it is because of the heat from the wheel; as if you apply heat to tight nuts and bolts they would normally come loose - that is what mechanics seems to do when they find nuts and bolts are difficult to undo.
Piston hard to push back into cylinder when bleed nut is locked, but easy to go back (all the way) without any resistance when bleed nut is released. But when applied brake again and again pads stays on; but when I tap caliper with a piece of wood the pads releases. I’m puzzled...as caliper is free and slides as it should when checked against opposite wheel. The opposite wheel is ok - pads on that still 6mm thick; while pads on problem brake are only 3mm thick. I noticed there’s a block under the bonnet where brake pipes are connected to. What is it, and its purpose? Could it be that something is wrong with that hence the problem? The disc/rotor is not warped.
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I believe that I have a leaking CV joint boot in my 2006 Outback. Occasionally smell something burning. Lifted hood and had some smoke. Saw leak and a friend stuck a finger into a hole in the boot.
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I have a 2002 Mitsubishi Diamante LS. I know I know, but I am a poor student (emphasizing poor), and this car is paid off. Anyway, A couple months ago I drove through a puddle, water splashed up into the engine area and my car died. I was able to start it an hour later (after it dried out, I guess) Since then, there have been a couple times that it wouldn't start right away, it took a good 20 minutes for the car to start after the initial try, both of these times have been after a heavy rain. And now, occasionally, I smell a slight electric burning odor. I replaced the battery after the "driving through the puddle" incident. I just hit 80,000 miles. Obviously there is one or more issues I need to deal with.
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For a few months, I smell coolant when I get into the car. I thought it was the food left behind. Finally this morning I saw a small puddle of coolant on driveway. green color as we had a snow/ice storm. Lost about 3/4 inch coolant in expansion tank. still about low on cold freezing day.
I searched through this forum, not a common thing for the heater core.. There were cases about freezer plug not tight..hose clamp not tight. etc
My question is that where is the freezer plug? Any easier way to get to the the heater core.? without taking the whole dash out?
I4 2.4 ....
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I recently purchased a 1996 Celica. The car looks amazing and drives well. On top of it's reliability, the vehicle is an absolute blast to drive!!!!! However, it seems to be burning oil. I was told to switch from 5w-30 oil to 10w. A thicker weight would work.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Celica GT with the stock 1ZZFE engine. I have had trouble with it ever since I got it. It burns a lot of oil. I was told that the seals were corroded and that thicker oil might work. I had to put a gallon of oil about every two weeks. It got so bad that I went from running 5W-30 to 10W-40. On my way home last night, it died on me at 197K. It was towed to my mechanic and come to find out, my engine is blown.
I am in the process of looking for a new motor. I realize that the 1ZZFE has oil problems, but have they been resolved is my question. I don't want to buy a motor that is going to have the same problem. And in the process of my engine being blown, could that have damaged anything else under my hood?
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I have a 92 Toyota Celica GT five speed that won't going to gear occasionally. I can drive several months at a time without having a problem and then all of a sudden when I start the car to put it in gear and I have to literally force it into gear or turn off the car and put it into gear. I can go 5,6,7 months at a time without having a problem. Then all of a sudden it won't work. I would say within the last year I have had the problem I'm maybe three times. The last being yesterday since about September. I have had the car for 10 years and have replaced the clutch maybe three years ago. I have been driven a manual shift car since I was 16. Last year around March I replaced the slave cylinder and the problem seem to go away. Do I really need another clutch?
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I have a 2002 SC430 which I purchased recently. My driver side foglight bulb burned out six weeks ago, at which point I had a shop replace both foglight bulbs with brand new Sylvania standard "long life" bulbs from Auto Zone (not the ones with "blueish tint" or anything, absolute standard bulbs because I assumed they last longer than any "cool color" bulbs).
Now, six weeks later, the same driver side foglight burned out again. I cannot understand why a brand new bulb burned out so quickly again. The foglights do get turned on every time I drive the car (with the headlights), but still it seems too quick to burn out in six weeks of daily use.
Is there anything that could be causing the same foglight bulb to burn out so quickly? The car has no modifications, electrical, or otherwise. Interesting enough, the reason I did not decide to upgrade to aftermarket xenon/HID foglights is to avoid issues precisely like this one
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1990 Celica 2.2 liter, 5SFE manual trans car with 239k miles.The car occasionally stalls after it is warm and won't restart. When is is cold she fires right up as it does most of the time when she is warm. To restart he sprays starter fluid in the intake or waits until it cools down. Also as the car gets warm the idle decreases to around 650. Adjusted idle speed to 750 but no effect. The only code is 1-2, low or no RPM, measured the RPM sensor air gap and within spec, measured the sensor resistance and within spec. sensor wiring and connector looked good, measured the temp sensor and within spec, disconnected the EGR vacuum line and no effect. Problem occurs once or twice a week but at the most embarrassing place.
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1991 Celica ST 4A-FE automatic, 238,000 miles, son's car, has been running great, until he says his oil light occasionally flickers on him. Car is in Wisconsin, driven maybe 2 miles one way to work every day, hasn't been on the highway is a couple months. Has synthetic 5W-30 oil with about 2,000 miles since last change.
Brought the car into the garage. Sure enough, after engine warmed up and idle got below 1,000 RPM, oil pressure warning lamp would come on. Engine sounded normal at idle and fast idle. Tough to put a mechanical pressure gauge on this engine (after to remove the alternator and A/C compressor and bracket, per the service manual, to access the oil pressure switch). I drove it on the highway, put about 40 miles on it, ran great, until I exited the highway. Anything below 1200 RPM, oil pressure warning light would come on.
Came home, removed the oil filter with intent to change it (to make sure it wasn't plugged). Smelled of gas. Oh-Oh. Drained the oil (oil level was at full mark, unusual for this vehicle, normally would be 1/2-quart low after 2,000 miles - 2 months of winter driving). Oil came out with consistency of water. Smelled of gas, and could see water droplets as I switch the drained oil from a collection pan into a jug. Thought was many short trips caused oil to never get hot enough to burn off unburned fuel blow-up or accumulated moisture, so oil was diluted, much too low viscosity.
Changed oil & filter with synthetic 5W-30 & Purolator PureOne oil filter. Took it back on the highway for 40 miles again. Highway drive was fine. Upon exiting, oil pressure warning light came on at 1,600 RPM or below. Oh-Oh. Had another 40 miles on the highway to get home. Highway drive was good again. Upon existing, oil pressure warning light came on again at 1,800 RPM or lower. Oh-Oh.
Worrying that the oil pump for pressure by-pass valve or of bearing spin-out or extreme wear (although engine sounded fine all the time), decided to order an OEM oil pressure switch. Had to take some of the bolt-ons off to access the oil pressure switch, but not all the service manual said had to come off. Took the old oil pressure switch out - looked just fine. Installed the new one, put everything back together. Checked to make sure the oil pressure warning light still came on with key in the ON position (it did), so I knew the wiring connections were good. Startup was fine (cold engine). Took it on the highway for 40 miles, after exiting highway, no more oil pressure warning light. Even tested the situation with the automatic in drive, brake applied, lights on high-beam, heater fan on high, rear window defroster on (got the engine down to 600 RPM), still not oil pressure warning light. Turned engine off, then turned ignition key to ON, oil pressure warning light comes on like it should.
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On the way into work today, I smelled a burning smell in my cabin. Got to work and opened the hood and it's very clearly something burning in the engine bay.
Coolant levels are good (even opened the coolant reservoir and it filled back up a bit, so it doesn't seem there's a coolant leak there), checked the dipstick and oil level seems good. MK6 GTI, just hit 21.5k miles. The only things I can think of are:
-Haven't replaced the cabin filter
-Intake may need to be cleaned? It's been on for about 10-12k and hasn't been cleaned yet.
Might also be just because my senses are heightened because of this, but the engine sounds louder than normal, specifically the lifters sound louder, but might just me being paranoid now. Been hearing about the headgasket possible 2.0 recall that's been bouncing around, so could it be that?
I want to take this to my car guy, but he's about 1.5-2 hours away, so I'm iffy on driving it that far.
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Three times in the past few months I have smelled something burning in my car. It only lasts for about 10-30 seconds. I've taken it into the shop to have checked with no results. One dealer told me I was smelling burning leaves caught in the manifold. It sure didn't smell like burning leaves to me though.
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So i had a burning oil smell for 2 years. I finally brought it to the shop and had the valve cover gasket changed as well as the chain tensioner gasket. I now have a constant burn smell. It cannot be burn off because when i open the hood i see it dripping on the cat. converter i just cannot see from where. I seems to be right behind the heat shield that covers the edge of the valvle cover. What else could be wrong here?
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I have a 96 camry that has a minor oil leak. I have taken it in to get checked, and the mechanic told us that as long as I'm willing to keep putting oil in it every month, I don't have to fix anything. However, lately the car has been making a burning smell, especially when I turn on the heater, and when the car is low on oil. Also, my oil cap has some yellow gunk on it. I'm concerned that this means water is mixing with my oil.
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A 2000 Passat with the 6 cylinder and automatic transmission. 95,000 miles has a burning smell...especially with the heater on...Changed the oil about two weeks agao ...and now with the heater on the car smells like its burning... You can see smoke coming off the rear of the motor when the engine cover is pulled off. .
Could it be a head gasket?
Could it be a rear seal?
Could it be a valve cover gasket?
Could it be the tranny leaking?
Anything typical of these V6's that might give possible insight? Local car mechanic was looking at the car and said "take it to the dealer" ....
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So, last Saturday I took my car into New German Performance and had my ECU flashed to Stage 1. I used it on Saturday and Sunday in 93 mode, but switched back to stock for my commute during the week.
Starting on Tuesday this week, I've noticed that I constantly smell smoke at work and while at home. All of my clothes are smoky. Well, I narrowed it down to my car. When I got home today, I had the gf smell the inside of my car and it indeed smells like smoke and/or exhaust. What could have happened here?
The car has a hair under 33k on the clock and the last time the oil was checked (last Thursday morning I believe) the level was right on max. Of course, I haven't checked it since the tune (I will once the car cools down tonight), but I'm beginning to worry a little here.
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2004 V6 XLE Power Steering Leak *pics* ... The problem now? Car doesn't start. I've done all the 'usual' checks and I am totally baffled.
So I was dropping my friends off at night. When I had the car in reverse to get out of the parking spot, turned off my AC and drove to park my car on the road. My ears heard something 'different' from my engine, like a 'wurrrrr' noise. I first thought it was my power steering pump was making noise (see my previous thread why). I pulled on the side of the road this is what happened.
I open my hood to determined my fluid for PS was OK. I noticed a 'burning' smell like something rubber was burning or metal getting super hot. I turned my car off and restarted the engine. The car cranked but it crank very slowly, lights dim and it started almost like a weak battery. Maybe battery? The 'wurrr'/buzz noise was coming from the belts area and was RPM related. Car did rev fine without any hesitation. [URL] ....
As I had the car on for a minute to take a video (below), I was in my car when I noticed light smoke coming from the right side (drive belt) area. I immediately turned off my car and attempted to see where the smoke was coming from.
After 10 minutes, I wanted to see if it would still start. Nope. Just rapid clicking of starter (See : [URL] ....)
It was dark so I couldn't do much (iPhone w/ flash light app), but I did check all what I could above and below the engine. I didn't see any burn wires or grounding either. So I was thinking...
-If AC or Alternator seized up/locked up, the car would still start but belts would burn, right? Same with power steering?
-Timing belt torn or tensioner sized? If belt torn, engine would crank freely though? Tensioner would usually just make a bad noise, right? Wouldn't really account for the 'weak' starting prior I think?
-Electrical problem such as a short within alternator/ac compressor....
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Lately my 2002 v6 has been smelling like it's burning oil from under the hood. Around the front exhaust manifold, there's a wet black "powder" type substance. Oil levels are fine and the car has also been driving without any issues. The car hasn't overheated but then again, I live in NJ where the temperatures don't go above 35F.
I'll be posting a picture tomorrow.
The car has 144k and the timing belt, water pump, spark plugs were done at 120k.
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I have noticed an oil burning smell when i come to a stop. Its been getting worse. I just replaced my valve cover gaskets. With new spark plugs also. Any way after I completed the job, I let the car run for a few minutes and seemed like i could still smell the burning smell. May be its just because it all needs to burn off the heat shields, but I thought I saw some oil accumulating on the bottom side of the v.v.t solenoid on the front of the valve cover. Is that a separate cover? Doesn't seem to be a gasket there. Do these v.v.t covers leak a lot?
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