My brake light goes off and on constantly. It happens when I am on an incline, start from a dead stop or go over a bump/into a dip. The fluid is fine, the pedal does not get soft or hard to press. Could it just be that the float is shot and needs to be changed?
View 5 RepliesMy girlfriend just bought a 98 XLT AWD 4.0. does have a few problems.
First, the brake light is on (on the dash). all the lines are good, but the front pads need to be changed. if i take off hard, the brake light goes out for a bit.
Second, had a CEL. P0743, torque converter clutch circuit blah blah. also, the o/d light flashes constantly.
The trans shifts fine, even under WOT. also goes into o/d with no problems, and the button works.
1999 Passatt ... My ABS system is shot and the "ABS BRAKE!" lights flash constantly, as long as car is on. I have been told to not replace the ABS system as it's incredibly pricey. I was told by another owner that he had heard there was a way to have this blinking stop pretty easily.
View 1 RepliesI started the car one morning after it snowed. the red "BRAKE" light is constantly on and while the car is moving it beeps which is extremely annoying.. I have tried:
-Topping off brake fluid
- another ebrake sensor (under the center console)
- brake pads have plenty of meat on them
- brake light are working
Okay, little back story me and my dad pulled this 1986 Toyota Celica gts out of the wood after been left to rot with a broken timing belt. Anyways we fixed it, got it legally driving, everything was great. Well minus the acorns that blow out the vents when the ac was on. I was going to work one day and the oil pump locked up and broke the timing belt. We then had the motor rebuild .04 over I think... It ran like a brand new car but shortly after about 3 months I noticed every time I got in the car to go somewhere the idle was going up with each start of the motor. Now after sitting for a long time I really wish to get it running again.
It hasn't been started in a while, 2 years maybe. As I'm afraid that it might hurt the newly rebuild motor. It last idled at a constant 3500 RPM, if you're driving down the road it just keeps going tell you find yourself in 5th gear. It wants to take off from stop signs like a rocket as well... I know its not the cpu because we got one and swapped it out and it still does it we done a few other thing like check timing and try to adjust the idle screw checked the distributor cap. it has no codes flashing when using the jumper next to the engine. it has all brand new parts alternate, water pump, o2 sensor, fuel pump, oil pump, fuel injectors. I think that's about it.
Two days ago my '03 Silverado stopped recognizing when I pop the parking brake loose and now dings incessantly while I drive and the parking brake light on the dash flashes on and off.
I tried...
1.) Engaging and releasing the parking brake multiple times.
2.) Checked the brake fluid level (perfect level)
3.) Checked my owner's manual (not enough info in the manual)
I have a 1.8l 1zzfe that has been rebuild because of the oil consumption problem. Right before it was rebuilt, it became extremely sluggish and was popping po300, po302, and po171 constantly. When the motor was torn down #2 cylinder had a burnt valve, rings were stuck, and carbon everywhere. All bearings were in spec, but they were still replaced. Pistons, rings, timing set, and plugs were replaced. I am still getting a sluggish acceleration, and popping codes po171, and po300. I have tested the injector resistance, seemed ok. Tested spark, seems ok. Tested the wiring harnesses, cleaned the maf, intake, and checked all of the vacuum lines. Not sure what to try next?
View 2 RepliesSo I got my 92 Celica GT 2.2 Motor Auto (unfortunately for now). Back off my wife's uncle and it wont crank or anything. I also noticed that now when you push the brake, it still wont let u shift it out of park. If you try to start the car it does nothing, however the brake light on the dash shows up. I am thinking it may be the starter as all the relays and fuses look ok. I am thinking it could be the ignition switch as it wont let me shift out of park without using the release button, but am not sure where I should start.
View 14 Repliesi have a 2001 Passat & my ABS & Brake warning lights have come on with no other symptoms. Brakes work fine - local mechanic can find nothing wrong!!
View 2 Replies2003 Ford Explorer Sport Trac XLT v6 4.0 with 89k.
Lately my truck has been acting funny. About 1 out of 3 times I start my truck and put it n reverse it starts doing what I would describe as a hesitation. If I sit for about 10 seconds, it will stop. But if I move while it is happening it will move and jerk as if i was slightly hitting the brake constantly (no the parking break is not on). It will continue when I throw it in drive until I give it some gas. From then on as far as I can tell there are no problems. It doesn't do it every time. I went in for an oil change and they told me I will need to replace the belt soon, so could that be the culprit?
My Mazda RX-8 has been towed and now its emission light is constantly on. I've been told that this could be due to gas sloshing that may has set a code. If so, how can I re-set the code ? Is this a big problem? Can I continue driving the car prior to fixing this?
View 4 RepliesRecently I have noted the SRS light has stayed on constantly -- I thought perhaps because I placed a heavy box of books on the front passenger seat - and it was telling me that I needed to fasten the seat belt. The light went off initially but not too many days later -- the SRS light came on and has stayed on ever since. I had it "diagnosed" at the dealer and was told that the OPDS sensor has failed. It was explained that this is something "electrical" and if not working properly that none of the airbags will deploy if needed in an accident. However, since the "diagnosis" -- and driving my car home and on an errand or two -- now I see that the SRS light is off. Did the "diagnosis" with the computer actually "reset the SRS light" and is it possible that my OPDS sensor is actually "okay and not in need of an expensive repair"? I would like to know that my airbags are going to work -- in the event of a serious impact - would running another diagnosis confirm that the OPDS sensor is faulty or confirm that "all is working well with the SRS system". I know the dealer doesn't care -- if he takes my car if for a repair that is no longer needed - but I do care.
View 8 RepliesI have hooked up an amplifier in my 06 sonata.For that i had disconnected the battery for around 4 hours.After finishing the installation i reconnected the battery started the car now airbag light is constantly on. What should i do?
View 6 RepliesMy washer fluid low light is constantly ON, even if it is 100% full. I even ordered and filled the OEM washer fluid, but no change.
After reading though a lot of forums i realized what the actual issue was. i used the crappy orange Rain-X that screwed up my washer fluid sensor, like everyone else's.
U was looking for a DIY where i can change it myself, without taking it to the dealer.
I recently got a mk6 Gti and was wondering, if I put new wheels on it will the tire pressure light be on constantly? And is there something I can do to make the new wheels compatible with the pressure monitor system?
View 13 RepliesWhich line goes to front brakes and which to rear from the master cylinder?
View 1 RepliesThis is on a '91 Celica GT, 5SFE engine, with front disks and rear drums, and no ABS.
Whenever braking, the front passenger wheel seems to be doing much more of the braking work. In the wet, its very easy to lock up the front pass wheel under pretty mild braking. In the dry the same wheel is always the first to lock up, considerably before the drivers front, and much before they should, based on the deceleration.
I recently had to replace all the brake hoses, and a long run of hard brake line from the engine compartment back to the gas tank. I've bled the system multiple times and doublechecked all the connections, and cannot find any leaks. With no brakes applied, all wheels spin freely.
It seems like the braking circuit for the driver front wheel is not working as well as it should be. Is the passenger rear brake on the same circuit as the driver front? This seems like air still in the lines somewhere.
Could the master cylinder be causing distribution problems between the two circuits?
My college son's 2014 Charger V6 has developed three issues since he purchased it used in late May. The cruise control has stopped working and the anti lock brake and traction control lights are constantly on. Any possible cause?
View 15 RepliesI was driving home from work on Tuesday and I saw a message flash across the MFD saying that I needed to check coolant and consult owner's manual. Also the coolant light was constantly flashing. I was quarter mile from my house so I just drove home, checking the temp to make sure it was ok. I got home and opened the hood to see no coolant in the reservoir, but there was some in the hose. I was like "ok cool I just bought this car 3 months ago but not a big deal." I also looked on the ground under my car quickly and there wasn't a leak. I happen to live about 500' from a VW dealership so called them up and they said bring it over.
When I got there the SA came out and took a look and said to give him 5 to fill it up and I'd be on my way. As I'm waiting in the lounge, I notice a puddle on the ground under my car. I told him about it and he confirmed coolant leak. But because I didn't buy the car from them, they wouldn't give me a loaner, so I had them fill it up and I took a ride to where I bought the car (30 mins away). Now I'm driving a new Jetta. I got the call from Balise yesterday (the dealership I bought it from) and they said my radiator core was defective internally, they overnighted a part and they started fixing it yesterday morning. Since it's such an involved job, only a master tech can do it and there might not be one there today (which I have to check on around noon) so I might not get it back until Tuesday. But I really can't complain (other than the fact that it's a brand new car), I have a car to drive and it's being fixed properly.
It probably was that damn lowerthanzimmy sticker. I realize defective parts are made, they can't catch all of them before they're installed.
I got one this morning and the thing never went away. and yes, i checked my fuel cap. How to remedy this issue or do I need to take it to the dealers.
View 3 RepliesIt's causing the 'engine preheating' light to constantly blink. Very annoying.
Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Control Module Part Number: 070 906 016 B HW: 028 101 073 7
Component and/or Version: V10 5,0L EDCG000AGM5726
Software Coding: 0000175
Work Shop Code: WSC 43095 134 00985 VCID: 0F26408D67DB
1 Fault Found:
18048 - Internal Control Module: EEPROM Error
[Code] ....