Celica :: 97 GT 2.4 - Hard Or No Start After Driving Around For 20 Minutes
Oct 5, 2011
My 97 Celica GT runs fine , battery is solid, no fuel delivery issues, timing is good, no backfires, new air filter, but when I have been driving around for like 20 mins and park for 15-20 or so I have trouble starting up, I have to keep trying and eventually it will kick in, but last night when I got home I tested it by letting it sit for about 20 mins and tried to start no dice, tried few times, then after cooling off over night, it started right up today with no problem. I remember a mechanic that was working on it said it could be a IC chip that could be overheating, I'm also concerned that it could be an engine or ignition component that is overheating and once it cools it's easy to start.
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We got a 1990 celica gt with the 5sfe in it. first night driving it after about 30 minutes the oil light would flicker at idle. We checked the oil, it was nasty so we did a complete oil change. Didn't fix the issue. Well then we developed an oil leak at the oil pump seal so we replaced all those. We had heard the sending units were notorious for going bad so we took it out and put an aftermarket gage in it. Still an issue.
Ok so then we checked the main bearings to make sure they were ok, they are fine. Normal wear. No clogged oil screen either. We then was told to try a little bit thicker oil so we did that. Still the issue. Here's what happens. start it up cold at idle is about 50-60psi. Let it warm completely up and it drops to 18-20psi. When you rev it up it rises.
Ok well after driving it for about 30 minutes after warm when I came to a stop it dropped to 0! Rev it up and it rises a lot. Held it at 2k rpms and it stays at about 30-35 psi. Ok as I'm driving it, it has good oil pressure. Motor is not making any noises other than the common Toyota valve chatter.
We have ran cleaner thru the engine thinking so gunked up ports and still no change. We are at a loss. Like I said cold it's fine, revving it up after being hot is fine. Driving it is fine. but boy when the engine is hot n u come to a stop or at idle it's nothing.
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My 1986 celica gts stalls only after the engine has been off for approx. 10 to 20 minutes. It starts fine, but stalls as soon as it starts, unless i keep my foot on the gas for about 5 to 10 seconds. After that it starts and runs fine at all other times. I've changed the coolant temp. sensor, but condition still exists.
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In hot weather or even warm / humid weather, my very low mileage Mazda 626 (2002) becomes almost impossible to shift, especially from neutral to first, after about 20 minutes of driving. If I stop driving and the car cools off, it's okay again, until another 20 minutes of driving. It's fine in cool weather. This problem started in the summer of 2010.
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Has 118,000 miles and we have replaced speed sensors and changed transmission fluid and updated computer software. It runs perfectly for 30 minutes whether driving in town or highway but then hesitates and jerks when shifting from 1st to 2nd and downshifting also. After it shifts into 3rd, it is fine. Repair shop says it could be gear box or computer problem. No one in town seems to know what it is for sure. 2004 Saab 9.3 2.0T
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All of the lights that show up when starting the car are coming on when I am driving. After about 5 minutes of driving, it is hard to accelerate and the car seems to stall (like I am trying to change gears - it is automatic). The first time it happened, I took the car to a repair shop and they told me I had a leaking hose and needed a new alternator. I had them change the hose and took the car to my usual mechanic. After two days of driving my car, he could not reproduce the problem and said he didn't think the alternator needed to be changed. I started driving the car today and it happened again. When I got home and turned the car off, it would not restart.
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The truck had a hard time starting, turn the key over hear that it wants to, but won't. Once getting it started, truck would drive fine, but after about 10 minutes just dies while driving. It then took 6-7 tries to get it started again, drove back like no issue. What it could be? I have come up with, potential battery, fuel pump/filter, spark plugs, EEC relay, PCM, or AIS motor, O2 sensor....
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My 2005 STX 4.6 fuel pump crashed a couple of months ago. A couple of days after having it replaced I started having hard/rough starting problems accompanied by a 0300 and 0301 code. I reset the codes several times and they only come back during the 3rd or 4th hard start, never while driving. The hard starts occur after the engine is shut off for more than a few minutes after driving. I have replaced the plugs, #1 COP, remaining COP boots, Cam Pos Sensor, Fuel pump drive module and had and FI. Also had the fuel pump replaced again on warranty thinking maybe a bad check valve. Again...it worked perfectly for a day and now I'm back to square one. Haven't gotten any codes YET but its only been a day. Bad injector? EGR?
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'93 Civic 1.5 manual starts first crank when cold but has trouble starting if you shut it off within 5-10 minutes of initial start. Just cranks and cranks, no start. Wait a half hour, starts right up. Warm start no problem, just that first 5 minutes after initial start. Gonna check it out today . . . first chance I've had to look at it. No other problems, drives and runs well, no stumble, good idle, mpg hasn't changed, just this annoying issue.
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I have a 1990 Toyota Celica, and I've been having trouble with it not starting after driving. There are no symptoms when the car is running, aside from a very slight rough idle. The car starts fine after sitting for 3-4 hours, but for short trips where it's off for under 1-2 hours, it cranks but will not start. The cranking also seems weak unless I floor the gas while trying to start, and sometimes it will eventually start if I hold the gas while cranking. It always starts at the beginning of the day.
This leads me to believe I'm dealing with a flooded engine, but I'm not sure how to diagnose why. I thought it might be leaky fuel injectors, but wouldn't that cause symptoms when running?
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In the morning when I start the car it idles rough, revving up and down from stable to almost dies from no gas but after 10 minutes of driving car runs fine ... BMW 530i 5 speed with 150K miles ....
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I'm really bad with cars but I'll try to be as specific as possible.
Car: 2002 VW Jetta
Basically the car will just stall out of nowhere while driving (not stopped at a light), I would say usually about 10-20 minutes after I started driving. After this, when I try to start it, it makes that noise like it is trying to start but the actual ignition doesn't happen. it usually takes me about 15 minutes to start it up again.
In addition to this, when driving, the RPM seems to randomly drop off often, and the car also jerks frequently, especially when I press on the pedal quickly.
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Prius a/c start to blow hot air after driving the car for 30 min. In the next day when i start the car, it blowing cold air.
A/C starts to blow warm air if i drive the car more than 30min. look like once the engine heats up its start to blow hot air. What will be the issue?
Only twice i got the VSC and Engine Check light. but it went off after 2 days. i Took it to the auto shop and did a scan, they said its giving lots of code (codes like: C1241, U0073, U0123,U0124, U0126, U0293, U0111) and they have reset the codes. and told if you get warning lights again then they can try.
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When car dies driving or idle- will not start for appx 30min after - cranks over immediately like it wants to, but will not actually start for about 30minutes... is this a sensor?
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I just returned after leaving LS 460 in garage for 5 months. Car & a/c start up fine but after 5 minutes of driving the a/c shuts down & can not be re-started until I shut off the engine. I re-start the car and again after about 5 minutes, the a/c shuts down. All a/c panel lights are off except "outside temperature". In the dashboard console where the outside temperature is normally displayed there is an "E" displayed instead. The coolant fluid level is fine.
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This only happens once or twice a week. After driving the car for 20+ minutes and sitting in the driveway, it will start running hot. I'd say around 230 degrees and it will stay there until I start driving the car again. I made sure the fans work and I also checked the coolant level and both are fine. What could be causing this issue?
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So I have had an issue with my Ranger. When the car is cold it's fine. After a while...maybe 20-30 minutes of driving, the clutch will start to stick. No better way to describe it. I will take my foot off and it will stick on its way back. It starts subtle but the this will gradually get worse and eventually the clutch will seize up and I can't press it anymore and the car stalls and I'm stuck. The car cools off and everything will be fine no problem.....but the problem keeps resurfacing.
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I've been having an intermittent stall-out problem with my 2003 F250 5.4L (160k miles). The truck has been retired from DD to farm duty, hauling, and towing only. Over the past 9 months, the truck has stalled-out on me 3x while driving. I will be driving along sometimes at highway speed, sometime slower, and everything will die: no PS, lights go on all over the dashboard. It will not restart right away. I have to wait at least 20-30min to restart it and then everything is fine for several weeks and hundreds of miles.
There are no codes and I have been unable for reproduce it/cause it to happen purposely. My mechanic has changed the Crankshaft Position Sensor, and checked the fuel rail pressures. I also checked all the harnesses and fuses, cleaned the battery terminals, looked for vacuum leaks, and gave it a good look-over. The following are new: battery, IAC valve, fuel filter. After searching the forum I also pulled the fuse box and examined the integral fuel pump relay: it and the board looked perfect, no bulges, cracks, discoloration, etc.
My mechanic thinks this is more likely an ignition problem than a fuel delivery problem.
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I just recently replaced the timing belt and water pump on my toyota celica 1996 st205 (5sfe engine) and now my car is overheating after roughly a 30-60 minute drive. the radiator seems to be overheating and boiling/forcing the reservoir tank out through the overflow hole. when refilling the coolant i had to use some water as the 5L bottle of 50/50 coolant i had wasn't enough. I cant see any leaks, i did see bubbles in the radiator with the cap off and engine running however i think that may be due to the reservoir tank being empty. I had never had this problem prior to the timing belt/water pump change.
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I own a 1996 Toyota Celica. When the car is cold it starts and run for about 5 minutes then dies. When I try to start the car, with the key in the 'on' position, I have no check engine light. If I crank the engine and release the key to the 'run' position, the 'check engine' light turns on. When the car is cold or I leave it to rest for a couple hours and I turn the key on the 'check engine' light turns on. it is after the car stalls out i have this problem. At this point if I spray some starter fluid into the intake the car attempts to start. I thought that it was the pump so I installed a new one. Fuel pressure is good. It seems to me that the injectors are not working.
Is it the computer? Given that fuel is getting to the injectors but the injectors are not firing, Given that I have ignition since when I spray starter fluid into the intake the car fires up and runs until it runs out of starter fluid. Where do I start? I have not used a noid light as yet to check the injector harness and as you all know the harness is a little difficult to get at because of its location under the intake.
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I got an 88 celica convertible from my neighbor. This is a fixer upper. It needs a battery and an alternator. But i jumped it and after idling for 10 minutes, the temperature Gauge was almost in the red. Yes the radiator has water in it. Is it the thermostat? Or the head gasket?
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