Celica :: 95 - Engine Is Idling At 700 RPMs With AC On
Sep 26, 2013
I have a 95 Celica ST (so it has the 1.8 7A-FE engine). When the AC is turned on and you rev the engine, when the rpms come back down it almost dies.
So say the engine is idling at 700 rpms with the AC on and I rev it up to 2,000 or something. When the rpms drop back down, instead of stopping at like 700 they go all the way down to like 400 or less and it almost stalls out. After a few seconds it comes back up to 700.
What does that sound like? All the vacuum lines are brand new, the throttle body/intake and egr valve were all completely cleaned of any carbon buildup.
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So I just recently bough a Celica GTS off an old friend, and the test drive went smoothly. Bought of course, as soon as I got it home, things started going bad.
Sitting in the driveway for a moment, I started to feel the car shake when the engine was idling. I ran the engine up to 1.5K RPMS and it smoothed out, but you could still feel it, just barely. As soon as you let it drop down to the 1K, its horrible again.
Temperatures were fine, no trouble codes. I've Isolated it to the 2nd cylinder from the right, and I've already checked plugs/wires and done compression tests on all 4 cylinders. Fuel injectors are also working fine.
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I drive a 2000 Celica GT 5 speed. I am having an issue with my 1ZZ-FE.
I am hearing a ticking/rattling noise from my engine around 2k-3k RPMS. Anything before or after that, the noise dies down. I could hear it from the interior of the car as well. I at first thought it was valve chatter. Someone said It could be a piston or rod. What parts will be needed? Worst case, ill just swap in a 03+ 1ZZ or go with a 2ZZ.
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I own a 2.4L Automatic 2003 Camry XLE.
I've gone to multiple mechanics and none have been able to give me a clear answer. Long story short, I've just recently had a new engine put in.
While it runs fine, there is a tremendous amount of vibration coming off the engine. You can feel it while it's idling, and at all RPMs. It kinda bearable at 1,500 and is the worst at 1,800 RPMs. Beyond 1,800 RPMs, it doesn't get worse, its kinda tapers off just a little.
Notes:
- We've checked the balance shafts and they are aligned correctly.
- No engine code
- Replaced spark plugs
The vibration is bad enough that some screws inside the car have even become loosened. As I said in the beginning, I've gone to multiple mechanics and no luck. What it could be and what to do/try.
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It could happen once a month or 3 times a day. No pattern and never the first time I start my car for the day. But I will be running errands, park the tiguan, run into a store for 5, 15 or 30 minutes and when I get back in my car and start it up and go, it dies when shifting from 1st to 2nd. I know how to drive stick. This doesn't happen every time. I have called/taken it to the dealer 5 times and they have no clue because it never happens with them and I cannot predict when it will happen again. Also, on occasions, when i start my car, halfway through the day, the engine will idle really rough then the RPM's will spike and the car gives itself gas and my foot is definitely on the brake. These little issues are starting to piss me off, especially since the dealer just shrugs its shoulders.
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I am desperately seeking info about my 1998 Honda Civic. My engine keeps quitting on me when I am either stopped at a stop light idling or the rpm's are really low. This seems to happen at random with no warning or check engine light. I keep my tank more than half full with gas so I don't believe this could be it. I have been to my mechanic and they said it could be a multitude of things wrong with it so it doesn't make sense to put money into the car if it won't necessarily fix it. I am desperate to figure something out so it can get fixed because I have to drive to work everyday and I'm sick of feeling anxious while driving all the time!
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Car started idling funny and stalling. Finally wouldn't start. Changed crusty spark plugs, started up once, then stalled and wont start again. Checked for spark, no spark. Changed crust dist cap and rotor and ignition coil and still no spark. Checked ignitor activity and appears to be working.
What else is there? There's a little doofer next to the coil that looks like it has two wires come out of it, looks magnetic (has metal shavings on it, probably from old rotor)... Could the ignition switch be the problem? It cranks, but no spark.
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I have a celica gts 2002 6speed. ok I know 2002 and 2005 celicas rev to 7,800rpm only but mine only rev to 7,000rpms. I have my check engine light on can that be ? I need to check the codes.
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I had an engine transplant (JDM) and am now getting P0300, P0301, P0302 and P0302 OBD2 codes with my Check Engine light. These are all cylinder misfire codes. A post on Google suggested these may be due to a leaking intake manifold gasket and suggested a replacement. My 2001 Celica GT is stalling out from standstill, idling roughly and hesitating.
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I have a 1989 Toyota Celica ST and I am having a few concerns with my engine. The engine has less than 50k miles on it, and I took it to the mechanics a week ago and was told nothing further than what I had done (tune up, oil change, change of filters) would be needed for the engine to run optimally.
Even after taking my car in, I am still experiencing a few problems.
1) Sporadic Idle - When the car is idling, the RPM shifts around. At some points, it will be so loud that it sounds as if engine parts are clanking together, and at some points it is so quiet that I wonder if my car is on.
2) Slow Start Up - Sometimes when I start my car, the engine sounds as if only 2/4 of the cylinders are running..then, after about 30 seconds, the car will turn off. This has never occurred when starting my car the first time of any day, and has never turned off while I have been in transit.
3) Problem Starting Up after putting in gas - Whenever I fill up my tank from about 1/4 full, it takes my car at least 3-4 minutes to idle smoothly.
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I got an 88 celica convertible from my neighbor. This is a fixer upper. It needs a battery and an alternator. But i jumped it and after idling for 10 minutes, the temperature Gauge was almost in the red. Yes the radiator has water in it. Is it the thermostat? Or the head gasket?
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Fan works and the ad button lights up but my rpms don't go up and the air doesn't get cold.
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It's starting to get warm again down here and I've started running my AC in the afternoon on my way home from work. I've noticed that as soon as I get off the freeway and sit at idle waiting for the light, the RPM's on my car drop considerably while the AC is engaged. I know there is a valve, AC idle-up valve or some such thing, that increases the idle when the AC is engaged. Where is it located and what is the proper name/part number so I can check or replace it? Haynes isn't supporting.
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I have a 1987 Convertible Celica GT, with Manual Transmission. The car will not idle at lower RPM. I had someone look at it, and they have it where it will idle at 2000 RPM, but anything lower than that, and the engine will die when not giving it gas.
The engine accelerates great and runs great at any speed, but if you push in the clutch without giving it gas, it will die, unless the idle speed is cranked up like it is now. What this might be?
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So I just drove my 85 to san francisco and back to Los Angles this weekend to visit my girlfriend and i had high oil pressure all the way until i blew my valve cover gasket.
So i fixed it finally today and it ran fine for a couple blocks and then my rpms shot up to about 3000 rpm and wont come down at idle speed and the car wants to keep going while in drive.
Its a 2.4l 22re EFI
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I just got a 87 celica for $500. Anyway it runs at 2000 rpm's for an idle, could a valve adjustment be a possible problem? Also where is the best place to find some performance parts for this thing? Would like cams, headers, pistons......?
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I have a 2000 GT with over 120K miles on it. The car works perfect, just a minor issue with O2 Sensor that I am going to replace soon
My question is, when I'm on the highway going around 70 to 90 miles on fifth gear, her RPMs are about 4K to 5K, is that normal??
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I have a 2000 Celica GTS that idles a little rough it has 118000 miles on it.. Fluctuates between 500 rpm and about 1100 rpm. Doesnt always do this, usually after ive been driving for a while. I also may have a rod knock, what parts would i need to fix both of these issues? Me and some friends can do the work ourselves, i just need the parts.
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I have a 2005 Camry SE V6 with 73000k I just got it out of the body shop yesterday and everything seemed fine. i started the car up a short time ago and it stalled out when attempted to drive away. its idling at 400 rpms? I feel that the guys at the shop disconnected something.
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i got a problem with my 96' 2.4 auto cavalier. It idles really rough at idle. I've replaced alternator, battery, idle air control valve, intake, plugs, and the fuel pump in the last year and a half. I've noticed that the rpms will fluctuate between about 625-675 when it's idling rough. About once every 11 seconds the car will rev up for a moment and will idle smooth but then it idle rough again. Every one in a while it will throw trouble code p0200 random multiple cylinder misfire.
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I have a 2005 Ford Ranger 4.0 V6 2wd Edge, with around 175,000 miles. It runs great, however the RPM's are slow to return and it seems to idle a little high for longer than you would expect when starting the engine. For example, exiting off the freeway with the clutch depressed, the RPM's will drop from approximately 2300, pause at 1800 for a second, then drop and pause at 1100 for a few seconds before returning to idle. If stationary and rev the engine, they seem to drop back normally.
So far I have changed the IAC valve and checked for vacuum leaks (not sure how exhaustive a check it was but sprayed every joint I could find). My mechanic agrees that it is abnormal, but has suggested that we wait for it to worsen enough to throw a code rather than spend a lot of time and money replacing things that may not be a problem. Also the throttle cable appears to be functioning normally and not sticking.
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