Celica :: 94 Oil Light Is Permanently On With Definite Lifter Noise
May 23, 2012
Recently bought a 1994 Toyota Celica GT with a 2.2 off of Ebay, for a good price mind you as the body work on it is very nice, sporting a "seamless supra" body kit as they called it and some nice 8 spoke unilug rims.
The car has been nothing but problems from the start, first- when they shipped it to me, the car had been sitting for a month, so they jumped the car with a semi. Blew all of the relays, took me a few days to figure out that dilemma (as I'm not much of a car person)
Once the relays were replaced, the car ran beautifully as a 94 with 174k on it does.
And the trouble starts, I changed the oil in the car- was about to give the engine and the suspension a total overhaul and baby the car up real nice, the next morning as I am driving to work the oil light blinks a little bit, but I think well maybe there was so much sludge in the engine that the Part-Synthetic High Mileage Castrol motor oil I used broke up some and it had a bit of a hard time processing it.
Well by the time I get off work, I start the car, oil light is on permanently and I am hearing definite lifter noise. I dropped the oil pan, cleaned the screen and made sure the oil pump still worked, and replaced the oil filter. Still nothing. I checked the oil pressure by removing the filter and turning the car on momentarily, the car spat oil out where the filter is and will spit oil out if revved from the top where you place the oil.
But then all of a sudden it wont even start, it will turn over- but it wont start.
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The check engine light came on today but nothing showed up in the instrument cluster to let me know if something was wrong.Gas cap(I got some gas just a couple of days ago but was wondering if that has something to do with it.02 sensor maybe.The light does not blink or anything like that but is permanently lit.
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I have a 2003 Camry with the 2AZ-FE in it. It has just under 300000 kms on it and is really starting to make lifter noise. Now i know these engines do make ticking noise but I can tell that it is getting progressively worse. I phoned local toyota shop and they want 900 in labor to adjust valves no parts. I know this engine has no adjustment other than swapping lifters to a different size. I am just curious to see if this is worth it on a car with so many miles. Would I be better to drive till it dies then buy another motor or head? Also kinda worried about stripping head bolts in the block if i do change the head. How common is this?
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I have a 1998 Volvo S70 with 140k. 2.5 litre 5cyl automatic. For sometime now my lifters have been making noise especially at start up. I'm up to date on my oil servicing using Volvo filters and a 20-50w motor oil ( as recommended by my mechanic ) but still the noise continues. In the past I have used additives to the oil but still the problem continues. Maybe I'm using the wrong one.
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2001 Jetta 1.8T wolfsburg
When I start my car the ASR light is already on and I cannot turn it off by hitting the button. It's just permanently on. Then as I start to drive and step on the throttle and get above 3000rpm the ECP light turns on and my car goes into "limp mode". Then in idle the engine stutters and RPMs go up and down, up and down. I'll turn off the car and the ECP light disappears but comes right back on again after getting above 3000rpm.
Thing is, these issues only appeared immediately after the following:
-Disconnected and reconnected CCM (checking for faulty wiring, battery was connected during this)
-Disconnected battery terminals for 3 minutes and reconnected them (no key in ignition)
Did I cause an issue by disconnecting battery?
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When I start my 2013 Prius (the car just passed the 1000 mileage marker) cold, I notice a tick coming from the ICE that almost sounds like a lifter tick. I do remember reading somewhere (I've read so much Prius literature in the past couple of weeks, I could begin to guess where) that the car, when cold, fires after DTC. I noticed this twice now, once when the car had about 500 miles on it, and again this morning, though I'm sure this is occurring each time I start it cold. Is this noise typical or is this something I should bring to the dealership's attention?
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On my drive home today around 2500-3000 rpm I am getting real bad lifter ticking noise. When I let of the gas it stops but as soon as I get back on it it will start ticking again. I just bought oil for an oil change Mobile 1
0W-40 I'm pretty sure plus a mobile 1 filter. Will this stop the ticking noise or do I need to adjust my lifters?
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Irritating lifter noise that is pretty loud when I cold start there engine in the morning. Have had the roadster for about 6 months and it has 122,000 miles.
I did not use the car for 2 months while I was away.
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My car is making the dreaded lifter tick noise. The dealerhip is telling me that my lifters need to be replaced at a cost of $1200. I have been letting my car warm up for about 15 minutes before driving because I cannot stand that noise. I am living near Charlotte, NC and would like to know if there is a cheaper fix for my problem.
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07 Santa Fe 3.3 with 155k miles has lifter noise all the time. Much more pronounced in cold weather upon start up when the engine is cold. These miles are mostly highway and I change oil every 5-6k with Citgo synthetic blend. Is this just normal wear or could the engine be getting gummed up? I was thinking about treating the engine with some Marvel or Rislone but I really don't like putting solvents in my crankcase.
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I had an oil change done last week for my 03 trailblazer, and was getting valve tapping on startup after sitting 8 hours in the cold, it goes away after a few minutes. I stopped by today, and they looked through the maintenance records and noticed a new i.e., supersedes the old filter filter model had been used, they are going to pick up the old model filter and swap it out. I can get the part numbers tomorrow, but in 154 k I have never had such a noise. And it started day 1 after the oil change. 5w 30 as specs and level was full.
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Sometimes I'll walk my wife out to the garage in the morning when she is leaving for work. When she starts up her 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan FWD sto n go I hear a clicking noise for about 2 seconds. To me it sounds like the lifters prior to getting the oil delivery. I was wondering if that was going to eventually cause some engine damage and also if there is a problem with the oil pump or something like that. Is this a problem that I should check into or is this normal for this van. We hit a deer several months ago and the whole front end was wasted. I don't remember hearing this clicking sound when the van was newer.
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2004 auto ranger 120k miles
When I bought it there was a lifter making a tap tap tap. Its not all the time or consistent which makes me feel its a failed lifter as opposed to a rocker arm that is loose. Ive tried the "stuff" in the oil. Seafoam, marvel mystery, etc with no luck. So this coming winter Im going to break it down and replace the lifter.
First question. I havent put a stethoscope on it or used the "hose to ear" method to track down which one it is. Im pretty sure its the right bank in the front. Will it be obvious which one it is when I get it broken down?
Next. At 120k miles should I be worried about the other lifters? Ive never had one fail on anything I own and hardly ever hear them on other cars. I pretty much thought that hydraulic lifters were failproof anymore. Should I be worried about the others?
Next next, do I need to be worried about damage to the pushrod and or rocker arm? Should I be prepared to replace those as well? Finally anything else to be concerned about or consider?
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As everyone can probably tell, I migrated from the 6.0 Diesel section. A few weeks ago I bought myself a 2008 F250 with a 5.4. I do have several questions: It is a 2008 with 116,000 miles on the odometer
The guy I bought it from had replaced the engine in it. The tag on the engine indicates a build date of 4-21-06. It supposedly had 40,000 miles on it. He told me that the mechanic that installed it replaced the spark plugs and replaced one of the timing chain guides.
What model year would the engine be considered for replacement parts and trouble shooting?
I do hear, what I would describe from the old days as lifter noise. It is not a ticking, but more of a swooshing, RPM specific, that is slightly louder when the engine is cold vs. warm. RPM at idle is perfect at 640, fluctuating only about 5-10. It idles very smooth, hardly detectable.
I do not know what kind of oil was used in the truck, but the filter was after market. I changed it to 5W20 with a **** filter the day after I bought it.
The rear end is geared 3.73, and coming from a chipped diesel, this one seems sluggish. I realize this is a very heavy truck for the engine, but should it feel heavy. The "lie o meter" tells me my MPG is 9.4 driving in the city. Have not yet had a good chance to take it on the highway.
So, to summarize in trying to learn the 5.4. What would the model year be considered. What should I check with the swooshing/lifter noise.
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My 2003 Escape 2.0L has the "door ajar" light on the dash permanently lit, including with the engine off and key removed, which means that I have to switch the courtesy light on and off by hand or else it stays on.
Obvious first guess is a fault with a door or tailgate switch, but they all look OK to a visual inspection. Are there any multimeter tests I can do? Any specific voltages, resistances to look for?
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I have a 2011 Sonata SE 2.4 In the last week Ive noticed a noise what sounds like my valves are rattling or maybe even a bad lifter. This only happens when I bring the RPM's up to 2500-3000. Not at idol or normal driving when RPM's are around 2000 or lower. Its getting progressively louder every couple of days. I've ruled out bad gas (I used another station in another city on last fill up ). My oil is changed every 3000-4000 miles with the recommended oil as well.
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The engine problem I am having is with a 96 corolla with about 198000 miles on it it runs rough and has lifter noise as if there was no oil in engine it only happens when cold and when the vehicle has sat for more then 3 days since last use.....
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My RX350 2012/13 model AWD check system and slip indicator warning light are permanently ON on the dashboard. The car is driving normal. How to clear the indications because I am very uncomfortable with it.
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2001 Ford F-250 7.3 Lariat, Crew cab, 8 ft bed. Have had the truck since about 2007 and 4x4 has never worked. It has the typical ford "self rotting" vacuum lines (which have all been replaced along with the hubs themselves). Took it to a mechanic a few years back and he n-word rigged it (for a lack of a better word) and bypassed a lot of vacuum stuff and it still didn't work. The weird part is this-- the 4x4 light is permanently on on the dash, even if the switch is in the 2wd position. Flip the switch and nothing happens. No sounds, nothing. No mechanic can fix it and I have yet to find a forum with someone having the same problem. (Worth manual transfer case swapping it?)
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I just punches a 2010 Camry 4 cylinder with 44,646 miles. Very clean. I've owned 2 camrys in the past a 97 and 2002 that both reached well over 200,00 miles without a hint of trouble. Well, when I start the 2010 when its cold like from overnight it sounds like the lifter are ticking?, it lasts until the engine is warm and then I don't hear it. It still has the 2 month 3000 mile warranty from the dealer. I just don't seem to remember our other Toyota sounding that way.
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I have recently bought a 2007 ES350 that's runs fantastic considering I bought it with high miles from the Lexus dealer (149k). I live in warm climate area and I notice that even though it's not cold out in the mornings my car idles high (at about 2k) for only a few minutes 2-4 tops then starts to drop to normal as it warms up. It hurts me to hear it as I'm not use to this and I worry that it may cause damage to my engine due to oil not being circulated properly yet.
Most importantly, ONLY when cold, I hear a very light knocking sound, kinda like a bad lifter tick, but by the time I get to my daughters school which is about 5-6 miles away it goes away and sounds normal at that point. Had me very concerned as I just bought it less than a few weeks ago and I'm afraid something was wrong and dealer may been able to mask it at my point of purchase and now its starting to rear its ugly head.
This is my first Lexus ES350, not really sure if it's normal or not. I can tell you, when it warms up, I've jumped out of my car and have put me ear to the good and can't hear the tick. Should I be concerned? Is high idle with tick normal if it goes away when it warms up or is it a fair warning something is bad or about to go bad?
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