Before I go replacing stuff and taking stuff apart. My 94 Celica key sticks in the ignition. It will turn to accessory and run and starts just fine. The key won't turn back to release. Unless the battery is unhooked.I figured this out after killing my battery then recharging it. The steering wheel also doesn't lock. I am unsure if they are related but unhooking my battery to get my key out is annoying.
View 6 Repliesi have an 83 gt celica and i am have trouble getting the gear shift to go into 3rd gear. I can do it if i shift slowly, but doing this fast risks shifting into 1st or getting jammed between 1st and 3rd.
i have attached a link to a diagram of the shifter parts and this contains more info on the car and engine type if needed. My question is what exactly do i need to replace to make it easier to shift?I have removed the boot and the gasket just to look inside and see if something looks bent, but I have not taken out the retainer or the plate below, but i am thinking that is the piece i need to replace.
Intermittent problem: put car in park and key will turn to off position but not "lock" and therefore cannot be removed. Subaru specialist could not replicate problem, Theories include need a new factory cut key, dirty console, cylinder/steering column tumbler, solenoid, switch , but we think it is some connection between the shifting into Park. Speedometer was replaced about 2 years ago--possibly jumbled something ??
View 2 RepliesLooking at buying this used 2004 F150 and the Seller says it has a problem with the ignition switch; that it continues to run the starter even after the engine is running, which burns out the starter. He's an obvious layperson and doesn't know much about mechanical stuff (or he's pretending, IDK).
This sounds very strange to me, because if it's some kind of mechanical defect/factory defect, it's something that Ford should have identified, documented, issued a recall maybe, or something, yet when I research the issue the only thing I find is a problem with ignition switches that cause fires in model years that end in 2003 (not 2004). Other than that I find no documentation.
I wonder how accurate the Seller's description is, or maybe it's defective due to some other reason, like maybe a car thief shoved something into the ignition and damaged it, or possibly corrosion. Or maybe it's simply "sticky" and some spray lubricant would fix it.
Is it possible to change the ignition switch without the key. Problem is my old key broke so im replacing the whole switch.
View 1 RepliesWhen I put my key in the ignition, I cannot turn the key. I tried putting a small amount of WD40 in the ignition and turning the wheel back and forth while trying to start, but all that did was make my key greasy and my wheel lock up. I've tried getting a new key made from Lowes and Home Depot, but their keys are too wide and will not fit in the keyholes. The only thing I am down to is replacing the ignition switch completely but I'd rather do that as a last resort because my car has had a big problem every week (alternator gone, new wheels, new master cylinder, new rotors/brakes). I haven't explored yet? And also, if it comes down to replacing the ignition switch, how would I do that without being able to turn the key?
View 2 RepliesFor some time I've thought my starter is going bad because I'll have to hit the ignition multiple times for it to actually start...I've even had to resort to push-starting it a couple of times. How can I tell if this is a bad starter or something else like the main relay?
View 4 RepliesCar was parked nose slightly uphill. would turn over strong, but wouldn't catch ignition after long tries. I dinked around for 5 under the hood for 10 minutes in the 30 degree weather, and then after a medium long try, it started and ran. started fine after a 45 minute stop with the nose pointed slightly downhill. Then after 10 miles the engine shut off suddenly at 40mph with no warning. there was never any diminution of power in the acceleration. would not start again after many tries with plenty of revolutions. It did seem the cab lights were a little finicky/dim, but I couldn't tell if that was electrical weakness or just old car cab light switches. didn't behave the way a battery related ignition problem would. no check engine light.
Cop pulled up and wanted it off the busy road, and long story short it wound up at this shop I don't know anything about. the guy there said it started and ran fine for the 45 minutes or so he had it in the garage, but then it shut off. it wouldn't ignite when he sprayed throttle body cleaner into it while cranking the key. I think he said he did something else to confirm there was no spark. he's got his theories about what is wrong, but doesn't want to commit to anything unless he can burn some $100/hr time diagnosing.
I'm hoping it is not the ignition control module, ECM or especially the crankshaft position sensor.
95 GT Convertible - 5sfe
I have a 1995 Celica that I've owned about 6 months. Great car until it broke down last week. It's an automatic and it spluttered to a stop as I was pulling into a car park (how polite). I've traced the problem to the ignition not creating a spark (removed and observed spark plug while engine turning over), but cannot find root cause. I replaced the engine management system this morning to no avail. A passerby mentioned that the 'igniter' which is built into the distributor casing might be the root cause of the problem.
View 4 RepliesIt's a 1999 Toyota Celica GT 2.2L, about 190000 miles and I just replaced the transmission not too long ago. Here's what happened, I was sitting a light, the light turned green, and I pushed the gas and the car stalled. I put it in park, tried to turn it on, and it won't start, but is still turning over, making an awful whining noise. Not the transmission. Battery is good, windows, stereo, etc still work. Terminals are good. Everything is still connected, I just changed my oil about 1000 miles ago, still has oil. Has transmission fluid, actually has all it's fluids, no leaks. No check engine light or any other lights. She did not overheat, if anything was colder than usual, No water in my motor, everything LOOKS good, and I take good care of my car, so I'm really baffled. I just spent my savings on the transmission, I'm not a mechanic, I'm just learning to do things on my own.
View 19 RepliesMy brother was the original owner then passed it on to me. I then passed it on to my younger cousin about two years ago. The car is completely stock and has never been modified. Everything is OEM.Just a couple of weeks ago I was called by my cousin saying the car broke down on her .The problem is that we took it to a few mechanic shops but they still haven't fixed it ...
Problem with car: When pressing on the gas, the idle drops and then the car dies (a scary event that happened to us and on a main road). I do not wish to bring it to another fail mechanic shop.What the shops did: changed all fluids, distributor cap and plugs, new spark plugs, and replaced air intake piping with oem piping.
The sliding armrest/storage bin cover in my 2013 RX sticks. When I'm driving and try to move it forward it won't budge unless I hit the back of it (which is hard to do when keeping one hand on the steering wheel!). When I've dropped by the dealer (3 hours from my home), of course, it doesn't stick. But when I'm back on the highway, it sticks.
View 11 RepliesI replaced both rear calipers, rotors, pads, parking brake cables and it still sticks once in a while. I have played with the adjustment on the console many times, but to no avail. I have to crawl under the back and press the link up to unlock the parking brake. It's only about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch at most. Is there some type of spring I can use so it retracts all the time? I have seen Toyota's with them.
View 4 RepliesTake a look at this. The first pic is my left rear wheel. Look toward the top of the tire and look how much it sits under the fender. Now look at the same part of the tire, only this is the right side.
Does it look like it sticking out more? It sure does to me. As of this second I only rub on the right rear, where the bumper joins the fender.
we have a 1986 dodge truck and the brake pedal sticks down and you have to manualy pull it back to release the brake. What could my problem be.
View 2 RepliesI tried spraying the throttle cable at the pedal end and linkage end with wd-40, and the problem is quite a bit better, but it still sticks at 45mph and occasionally when I first try to apply gas.
View 5 RepliesI bought my 06 GS300 AWD with 104k a year and half ago and have noticed the transmission sticks while shifting. This is prevalent during winter or cold driving.
These are the cold symptoms w/o Snow Mode active:
-sticking between shifts (gears 2-4).
-on highway coasting speeds, take your foot of the accelerator and the Tac. needle bounces.
-downshifting to lower gears the car pushes forward further than expected.
-coming down a decline with your foot on Brake, the gear upshifts instead of downshifts (has happened after driving for more than 20 minutes).
- high Tac. reading during warm-up drive, have to depress brake pedal further, to prevent collision.(this one I expected since all Toyota vehicles that I've owned has done this).
I have talk to my local Lexus dealer and a tech mentioned this transmission has been known to do this while it's cold.
So, my question is, should I consider changing the trans. fluid to see if the problem goes away?
I tried searching around, but nothing. the rear door on the passenger side sticks out a little, im wondering if there is an adjustment i can do to fix this.. its out less than a quarter inch. someone said adjust the striker, but i cant seem to find it.
View 8 RepliesI drive a 2004 Kia spectra (base model) w/ 93k
My clutch would start out fine as I start the car, but after pressing on the clutch pedal for about 40-60 times on one trip, it'll start to loose pressure & becomes stickier. And as I press on the clutch pedal more & more, the problem gets progressively worse to the point where I have to manually pull the clutch back up with the tip of my foot.
I also notice that when I drive with the air conditioning, the problem would precipitate earlier & clutch response deteriorates much quicker. But when I let the car rest for a couple of hours or overnight, the clutch response would slowly return, and eventually be normal again.
I own a Honda Accrod 2005 V6.
I don't know much about cars, but for the past year my clutch gradually started to just stick to the floor. I'm now at 80,000 miles, the clutch doesn't slip, and it for the most part drives fine with exception to this sticking. Sometimes when this happens, the stick shift stays in gear and I can't get the stick out of gear until the clutch has been lifted up and pushed back in. It is def getting worse. I have brought it to several mechanics.
I have been told by Honda that I need to replace the clutch set (clutch disc, pressure plate, and throw out bearing) and the clutch master and slave cylinder.After another mechanics look over, they also did confirm the same as honda but stated to get a new cut flywheel.
But after several other mechanics look-overs, they told me that the clutch is fine, so they recommended me to get the master and slave cylinders replaced.
So, trying to save money a mechanic told me to take one step at a time and see how it goes. He said he will bleed the slave and master cylinders and see if it is just an air pocket. That didn't work, so I trusted him and he replaced the master cylinder, but the problem still exists. He said the next thing to do is maybe to do a new slave cylinder. I'm now contemplating.
Another mechanic took a look after the work was done and said there is no leaking.
I bought my 2011 GTI new in June and shortly after delivery noticed one of the radio pre-set buttons sticks. You can pry it out with a fingernail, but it's clearly not right. This was no big deal because I was planning on an aftermarket stereo, so I told my sales rep we'll just take care of it on my 90 day inspection.
When I took the stereo in for service last week, they refused to fix the problem, stating I had voided the warranty by removing the stereo from the dash.
So now I'm looking for a way to fix the thing so I can sell it for the $100 it's worth on Ebay. Better yet would be someone from VOA who could talk sense into my local service department (Volkswagen of Oakland). Threatening to never let them see my car again didn't make them any less stubborn.