Celica :: 92 Toyota GT Cuts Off During Shift / Acceleration
Jun 21, 2012
I have a 92 Toyota GT...2 Door...2.2 liter engine...5 Speed ... It has just over 182,000 miles...ENGINE STRONG!
My Car has Been Cutting Off During Acceleration into 2nd Gear... At first I thought it was my battery post and the Grounded wire which was frayed, I replaced with New... problem persisted...I bought a new terminal for the Post...After Stopping and Going..
(When Car Cuts off...You can Crank it right up...No Problem...Began to accelerate and Cut off.. Start it...and go..Decide to Press Gas Down and ride the Clutch and Gas While Shifting and car Stays Cranked but I look like a Rookie Behind the Wheel and will Burn out My Clutch..So.. After I stopped and raised the Hood....I took the Negative Post Off...and Car Shut Off.. Bought a New Alternator...BAM...That's The Problem.. NOT!!..
4 Days later...Start out the parking lot...Car Cuts off..Same Problems All over again.. I took the Alternator to be checked..Fine..I took the Battery to be Checked and charged..Fine.. What Could Cause the Car To Cut Off after I hit 20 + Miles and Up..between Shifts....it Dies..? I need to Get to My New Job..and It's my only Means of Transportation...
View 7 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2001 Toyota Celica GT, automatic with 177,000 miles, it has been very well maintained. I started having a problem usually just after starting when it is still not completely warmed up. I try and shift it into reverse or drive, and the shifter says it is in those gears, but the car acts like it is in neutral. Once it gets a little warmer I can try it again and it will slowly shift into reverse or drive, usually though the rpm's seem to go a little higher than normal while it shifts. It seems to drive pretty well after this, shifting-wise, but not exactly perfect.
When it is completely warm though it usually drives really well - mostly I do a lot of highway driving. The transmission fluid is full, and looks perfect, nothing in it, not burnt. Previous owner had it changed a few years ago I believe. The check engine light is on and the codes are Speed Sensor A P0500, P0770 Shift solenoid E. My speedometer also works perfectly by the way. I don't have a lot of good shops around and I feel like the ones that are closest to me will see dollar signs in their eyes when they see that transmission code and will just try and replace the whole transmission right off the bat.
View 1 Replies
I have a 1994 Celica 1.8L ST which cut off on me while driving. I have been trying to troubleshoot the problem. Here's what I've done so far:
Originally after the engine would cut off I could get it to start again, but there came a point when it wouldn't start. I ended up replacing the ignition coil, and immediately the car fired up again and was running. However, the check engine light was now on and the engine had far less power and was running very rough. Nevertheless, the car was still working and would no longer cut off. Thus, I took the car to Precision Auto Tune to get a diagnostic test done, and they told me the distributor was bad.
I then purchased a new distributor and replaced the old one. Immediately the check engine light disappeared so I took the car out for a test drive and it ran perfectly; yet, after ten minutes, the engine suddenly cut off while driving down the road. After coasting the car to a place to park, it refused to start again. I left it overnight, tried starting it the next day and it randomly started. It ran for 10 minutes again in park before cutting off again. Since then, i thought the new distributor was faulty and exchanged it for another, but the engine still cuts off after running and refuses to start again. However, when it refuses to start, if I install the old "faulty" distributor, the car starts without a problem, but the check engine light also appears.
View 3 Replies
My 1995 Taurus SE check engine comes on shortly after starting, cuts out for two seconds on rapid acceleration, and the check engine lights goes off for ten seconds. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor, the spark plugs, and the air filter. I have tried Techron injector cleaner. It is better but the check engine light is still on and it cuts out as before.
View 19 Replies
I have an '07 with 122k miles. There is an issue with the car when I attempt moderate to hard acceleration. I have observed the following behaviors:If I hit the gas hard, the engine will suddenly cut out, almost as if it hit the rev limiter or VSC has kicked in. The engine does not die, it just appears to go back to idle. It is not a miss or stumble. It is a full loss of engine power. If I keep my foot on the gas, it will kick in and out, sometimes so suddenly that it will chirp the tires when it re-engages. It will do this until I let off the gas and accelerate more slowly. It seems to happen when the car starts to pull hard over 3k rpm.
It can happen in any gear, as I have tried playing with keeping it in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd, and have observed the same behavior when I hit the gas hard. It is not pedal position dependent, as I have observed this at anywhere between half throttle and wide open. There are no lights when this occurs. I have held it in this state for almost 20 seconds at times, trying to get a CEL, but nothing happens. I have hooked up a TIS tech stream monitor, and there are no problems recorded. The car runs and idles perfectly aside from this problem. If I accelerate normally, it will run just fine. It almost seems like a fuel delivery problem. Could the pump be suspect, not allowing enough fuel during high demand?
View 14 Replies
Lately I've been having trouble with my car in third gear under hard acceleration while in tip mode with DSG. I have been Stage 2 since April and it hasn't really been an issue until recently.
The best way I can describe it is when you get into 3rd with your foot on the gas the car stops accelerating and kind of gets stuck. I have to completely let off the gas and before it "wakes up" again. I feel like it's been getting worse in worse, but it only ever happens when I try to push it hard.
No problems in auto mode or sport, it's just a major let down. Could the fuel pump be the culprit? It just feels like the car doesn't want to move for a second or 2, like no response from the gas pedal.
View 23 Replies
I have been having an issue with my 4-5 gear shift under hard acceleration and know that a rebuild is due soon but I was wondering if any high performance kit available with all the clutches and friction discs needed to rebuild.
View 6 Replies
My truck has about 100,000mi and has had all the scheduled maintenance.
My 2006 5.4 engine cuts out under medium acceleration when accelerating from a stop. Happens when warm or cold. Works fine under light acceleration. Cut out happens before it shifts into second. Cuts out just for a second, then resumes. Stumbles twice under heavy acceleration. Very repeatable.
I noticed the gas was low - above E but below 1/4. So I filled up at the gas station. The problem went away. I had this issue with a 1980s fuel injected VW - it would get a vacuum lock on the gas tank. But with this truck I did not notice and inrush of air when I took the gas cap off.
I suppose it could be the gasoline sloshing towards the rear of the tank, away from the fuel inlet pickup.
View 5 Replies
Just installed my SCT livewire TS. The truck runs good without a tune but it has egr delete so it had check engine light. So I put a performance tune with egr disabled so it cleared code. But I noticed at pretty heavy acceleration the fuel seems to cut out. Usually once boost builds. Does the same with the street tune.
View 5 Replies
The other day I got into my car and it started fine. After driving about a block it cut out. All the dash lights come on but it makes a funny sound when turned over and doesn't start. I tried jumping it but it was no different
View 2 Replies
i have an 87 toyota 4runner with the 22re last week the starter stuck on and drained the battery and burned the starter up so i replaced the battery and starter and now it will start and run for about 3 seconds and run out of gas
View 5 Replies
My son's 1998 shook and cut off at a red light today. I am taking it to be fixed and do not want to be taken for a ride financially. What it could be, so I can show up at the repair shop professing some knowledge?
View 4 Replies
Does the shift selector on the 92 Celica ST, lit up when the other lights comes on, like when turning on the headlights, and if so, how to replace such light? like what I would need?
View 1 Replies
I have a 2002 Celica GT automatic and it wont shift out of what seems like 3rd. The car starts and runs fine and reverse works great but when I put it in drive it seems to be starting out in 3rd and will not shift out of it no mater how fast or slow I go. I tried to manually shift from low to 2nd and then to drive and nothing it still starts in 3rd. What may be causing this?
View 1 Replies
I recently bought a 1992 Celica GT with 250k miles on it. It has a rough idle and a couple other things that may or may not be stemming from the same thing that's causing the rough idle
Like I said, it has a rough idle and there is a bit of jerking sometimes during acceleration. The exhaust makes sort of a "put-put-put" or "chirping" sound at lower RPMs and the frequency of the sound corresponds to the engine RPM. I do know of a couple things that could be causing the rough idle and maybe even the jerking, but I'm not sure about the sound from the exhaust.
The cooling fans are hard wired to the ignition so they run constantly, so when it's cold out like it is right now it takes forever for the engine to warm up. Is there a switch somewhere that they are supposed to be wired through? Where would that be? Also, the previous owner did kind of a hack job of putting on a cold air intake and I think I may be missing some sensors, especially because it seems to burn more fuel than it should. What sensors are located on the air intake, or are there even some in the stock airbox itself? And would this possibly be contributing to the rough idle and the jerking?
Also, I do get some vibrations when stopped at idle so I think I may want to replace the motor mounts.
View 14 Replies
2000 Celica GTS e shift will not hold gear it just shifts like its in drive....
View 1 Replies
All the gauges on the dash will die for a second and the engine cuts out and the car jerks then it will come back on and everything is fine. Sometimes the gauges turn off completely and the car will die and will not start for several minutes. I will try to start the engine but it will not start until the dash lights come back on. The first time this happened to me I changed the air filter and the car ran fine for a month. So when it happened again I took my air filter out put it back in and again the car worked fine for a couple of weeks. Now, It doesn't work to mess with the air filter at all. The car is cutting out more and more.
View 2 Replies
Is it possible bad spark plugs and wires affect poor acceleration and bad throttle response.I have no error codes and the engine is rebuilded.Idling sound good.Difficult to start engine first time(seconds after-easy to run the engine).
Tyre size 195/65/15 winter?
View 1 Replies
I have 93 GT-S, AT, 2.2, 163,000 miles.
My problem is slow acceleration. As I get on the highway and give it the gas my car slowly climbs to my travel speed at 75 mph. She will climb steady at around 3000-3100 rpm. When I punch it the car revs to approx. 4000 rpm but then quickly drops back to 3000 without me letting off the gas. Almost sounds like its bogging down. Another thing I noticed while cruising at around 65 mph is that the car bucks a little but I don't hear any misfiring. Also, when I do step on the gas, the car is severely louder. Almost sounds like it's coming from under the hood. I tried parking it, opening the hood, and listened to the engine while giving her the gas but she sounds much quieter. So the louder noise seems to happen under load. Please note there is no check engine light.
Is this one issue or possibly multiple issues? Could my TPS be an issue here as well?
View 4 Replies
I own a Celica '00 and have been driving it for 8 years. In the last year I've noticed that my CEL started coming on. Did some scans and got P0171 error code from Autozone. The Celica was running lean and took some time to accelerate but run fine for a while. It got worse soon and I took it to a mechanic. He diagnosed a bad Cat Converter and he replaced it with an universal one. He also replaced the first Oxygen sensor, Spark Plugs, Fuel Pump and the Mass Air Flow sensor. Car's CEL came back one after 10 miles of driving. At that time I put in a 4" silencer for my muffler. The silencer had a 2.5" opening and worked well to lower the muffler noise.
The CEL was still on and I disconnected the negative on the battery to see if I can reset it. Well, once I connected it back and tried to turn on my Car all hell broke loose. The engine now has extreme sputters, shakes and hesitates to accelerate above 5-10mph. I barely drove it back to the mechanic. He still is not sure what the problem is, he thinks replacing the other sensors and troubleshooting the coils should be the next step. I'm wondering if my silencer could have caused any damage? Also, I'm wondering if there is valve damage inside the cylinder? The code we're getting now is Cylinder 4 misfire. What about the Fuel filter? I don't think it has been changed at all. The car is at 122,000 miles right now.
View 13 Replies
I drive a 2010 Toyota Corolla, 1.8L vehicle. We recently went on vacation to Colorado and somewhere around Fairplay, CO, which is about 9500 feet above sea level, our relatively new car with only about 47K just died in the middle of the road where there was not shoulder or cell phone service. I pulled over the best I could and popped the hood after several attempts to restart to no avail. I removed the decorative plastic engine cover and looked at it long enough to realize I did not know anything to do or try, reinstalled the cover and closed the hood. I was then able to restart the car and go a little further.
It did happen to us one more time and again after a few minutes on the side of the road with the hood open I was able to start it. I was very surprised that there was no check engine light when I was able to restart the car. I would expect if the engine just dies in the middle of driving that it would at least produce a code where I could have some idea of what was going on. I have read about vapor lock, but it sounds like it is more likely to happen on older cars with a carburetor and with the fuel pump under the hood instead of in the fuel tank. Should I try higher octane fuel?
View 8 Replies
