Celica :: 92 ST Won't Start After Engine Swap
Jul 30, 2012
We just did an engine and trans axle swap in my daughter's 92 Celica St with a 90 Celica ST, both engines are 4Axx. When we swapped the engine we reinstalled the 92 intake manifold, fuel rails, injectors, sensors and the thermostat housing with sensors. We installed a new timing belt, and new 'O' rings and grommets on the injectors. When we went to start the car it would not start. How do I eliminate air in the EFI system and rule that out as the cause of the engine not starting?
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I replaced my 7AFE engine in my Celica 1997 1.8 with another 7AFE engine. The replacement engine had a different wiring harness, so I kept my original wiring harness.
After the swap, I started the engine and it stopped by itself after about 30-60 seconds.
Now it wont start. I have fuel, but no spark. I have tried three different distributors.
I have tried to read the fault codes, with connecting TE1 and E1, but no engine light lights up in the dash.
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We put in a used engine (2003 Accord 3.0L V6) from a Junkyard over the weekend, and now it won't start. It'll turn over and fire on a couple cylinders, but not enough to start. Doesn't seem to matter if spray a little starting fluid in the Throttle body while trying to start it. It sounds normal while turning over, put in a new timing belt while it was out, and turned it over by hand 6 times to verify correct install before reassembling.
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I am a Honda/Acura nerd. Decided to buy my friends 02 Celica that had piston slap from the famous oil consumption issue i learned about. Did a bunch of research and swapped in a Corolla motor. Everything seemed to go as normal, its in and running just fine. Only problem is now the power steering pump is making a very loud whining noise like its low on fluid.
Now first i must say the car ran, drove and turned just fine before the swap. No noises or issues aside from the piston slap. On the 1zzfe engine there is 2 bolts to remove the power steering pump and move it out of the way, easy enough.
My question is how did the power steering pump manage to get damaged? I've inspected under the car a bunch of times, inspected the top of the power steering pump, inspected everything i could looking for a problem. I just don't see any...no smashed hardlines, no leaks, has plenty of fluid, sensor is firmly plugged in. I notice when it is making the whining sound, the hardline that connects to the top of the pump is vibrating, which is what is making the sound i guess...if i crank the wheel all the way to the right or left it doesn't make the noise at all...
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We just swapped engines on a 2014 Santa Fe Sport but it won't start now. Old engine had 70k miles, new one has 25 k miles. Wondering if the swap could have tripped a fuel shutoff switch or something simple. Its not throwing any codes, but I think it has to run first before it would give a reading. Turns over but wont start. Previous engine ran but had internal lower engine problems and metal in the oil. There is plenty of spark but it doesn't seem to be getting fuel. We hear the fuel pump prime so we know that works.
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My 1986 celica gts stalls only after the engine has been off for approx. 10 to 20 minutes. It starts fine, but stalls as soon as it starts, unless i keep my foot on the gas for about 5 to 10 seconds. After that it starts and runs fine at all other times. I've changed the coolant temp. sensor, but condition still exists.
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95 Toyota Celica wouldn't start. Jumped off the battery and it starts but kills after only a few minutes. White smoke pours from the engine area - smoke not steam. I'm selling this car and have been starting and running it a couple times a week. This is the first time it's done this.
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My cousins car died. cranks but NO start. It was not very well taken care of, but it is her daily driver. Threw a code 12, which is SOMETHING with the ignition.
Have replaced the...
distributer/cap/rotor
spark plugs
wires
ignition coil
valve cover gasket [unrelated HUGE oil leak]
100a ALT fuse
Timing is correct as far as i can tell, 12 volts at both wires for the ignition coil
Battery is good, alt is good...
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The engine turns and air blows out of the throttle body. My fuel pump and TPS is good. What else could it be?
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I haven't been able to start the car since I did a cluster swap a few days ago. Both my keys fobs are adapted so it's not the immobilizer. I'm not even sure if this has anything to do with the cluster swap, but it seems like too big a coincidence for my car not to start all of a sudden. I've done a cluster swap before on my TDI and didn't have any issues.
Fuel pump primes when I open the door, I have spark, and I've done a throttle body alignment but it won't start.
Measuring Block 022 under instruments shows that everything should be fine as far as the cluster swap
With the new cluster adapted, VCDS is supposed to show the car's VIN and immobilizer ID under the first extra field in the instruments address. The immobilizer ID shows up correctly, but three characters in the middle of the VIN show up as ZXX for some reason:
It does show the full VIN and immobilizer ID under Engine> measuring block 081 though.
I even put the original cluster back in the car and it still doesn't start.
The car has a UM tune and was running great before this happened.
VCDS shows no fault codes.
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I have an 06 Prius. I bought it with a broken/leaking transmission about 3 months ago. I drove the car home and it sat for a few months, then I drove it into my garage to start working on it a few weeks ago. I just finished up with the trans swap this evening and I went to "start" the car to get the coolant circulating/blead, and the car would not start. I get nothing, I just get a blinking red light in the shape of a car with a key in the center.
I am pretty sure this is the immobilizer symbol. What can I do to reset/fix this? This is my first prius and I have not driven this one more than 50 miles so it could be something silly that I am just not familiar with. This is what I am doing...I get in the car, put the key in the key slot, and I push the brake, then I hit the power button...I get nothing, other than the blinking light on the dash.
I went back out to the car and messed around a little bit. When I put the key in the slot I get what I described above...nothing. But if I don't put the key in the slot, and just push the power button the display comes on but I am not able to shift into any thing other than park or neutral. When I am able to power up with out the key in the slot I get a red car with an explanation point going through it at the top left of the screen.
Then at the display just below the windshield most of the lights stay lit up. What does this point towards? Why would the car not try to go into Drive or Reverse? And what's going on with my key? The only two times I have driven this car i just put the key in the slot and it turned right on and I drove away, now with the key in it will not do anything.
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I want to do an engine swap 98 regal to 01 regal. Both are series 2 3.8L. Should the engine and tranny swap without a huge problem?
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I was wondering if it was possible to swap the engine in a fifth generation Camaro with a less powerful one? Preferably an engine with 100-150 hp.
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I have a 2011 corolla. the engine just dont have any pep. is there a way to swap 1.8 for a 2.4 . is it worth the effort. or how can i get more pep without sinking lots into it.
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Brought my b6 to the shop for engine swap now getting code 1314 and car is still at the shop
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Finally finshed the installing the new motor. Motor cranks but wont start. I have spark on all cylinders. Pressure in fuel rail but not sure how much. I don't hear any "clicking" coming from the fuel injectors. i measured the resistance on the injectors and its good. I just went out and got a new battery for it. I am not sure where to go from here.
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Can i change from 3 cyl to 4 cyl 1992 metro....
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I am trying to swap my ecu for a chipped one out of an 04 gti 1.8. Both awp engine codes. I programmed the immobilized and the car doesn't start. I am thinking it has the ignition kill feature but the guy who sold it to me doesn't think it does. i was just wondering if the ecu's are compatible even though the part number is different.
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I have a 2006 Prius with 186,000 miles. The engine developed a knock. I swaped the engine with one from a junk yard. The swap went well. I reconnected the HV battery and the 12v battery. When I tried to start the car I recieve the red triangle with many other dash displays and (!) over the car in the upper left corner of the system screen. I checked for codes with a code scanner, all I can see is $7ea and $7eb. When I clear them the (!) disapears for about 5 seconds and the word problem displays and then tha(!) comes back. The 12v battery reads 12.4 volts.
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I take my 4.2 to a great mechanic in the Minneapolis area. I took it in for some pretty hefty service. Control arm bushings, ATF change, and timing belt. My car has 205k miles on it and I feel like shes got another 100k in her. Lots of highway miles. I mentioned that I noticed a small coolant leak in the right front. He gave a compassionate grin and he seemed to know exactly what it was. He told me about a plastic pipe near the oil cooler that leaks. He's seen it on a handful of A8s. Told me to read up on it...I wish I hadn't. It seems like one hell of a job. Engine needs to come out.
My question is, if the engine is coming out and I've got 205k on it, do I take the opportunity to buy a used low mileage engine and enjoy another 200k+ miles? For those with experience regarding this leak, is this something I can live with, or does it continue to get worse? The system holds pressure as it is. It's a very small leak.
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I have a 1995 Chevy S-10 4.3 V6 TBI Z engine, manual trans 4x4 with 228,000 miles. I went through a long and expensive ordeal trying to fix an ignition problem. I won't get into the whole story but I went to 4 mechanics over 1.5 years. I finally have it fixed and running good. Last mechanic replaced the whole engine with a used one.
One of the quirks I have now is some of the gauges are not accurate since the engine swap. The new engine came out of a 1500 truck, not an S-10. The battery and oil pressure gauges are working fine. It's the speedometer and coolant gauges that are off. Speedometer is reading about 10+ mph above the actual speed and the temp is reading very low. Mechanic says the new engine wouldn't affect the gauges. The gauge needles are moving smoothly, not sticking or jerky. Is there any way to adjust them? Or maybe the sensors? Mechanic says I have to replace the whole cluster. I don't see any aftermarket ones for this truck.
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