Celica :: 92 ST - Engine Shut Off When Turning A Corner - Fuel Pump?
Jul 23, 2011
I'd been suspecting that the fuel pump on the car was going bad recently, and yesterday when turning a corner the engine shut off and it won't start back up. At first it would turn over a couple times, but now there's nothing at all. I've checked the timing belt, which is good, and I'm almost positive that there's no fuel getting to the engine. The problem is that I can't figure out where the fuel pump / relay is located.
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Have a 95 Bronco with 5.8, I turn the key on and fuel pump doesn`t shut off. Changed fuel pressure regulator still no shut off. Changed relays, no luck. Have 38 pounds pressure with key on, but no start. Checked spark just in case, and have fire. Don't know what to try next.
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I've followed steps 2-6 from this image
I don't feel any pressure in the hose from the fuel filter. I can hear a buzz (guessing its from the fuel pump) but no pressure.
I've checked both fuses, the efi main relay, and swapped out the circuit opening relay with a known good one and all checked out good. Only thing left is the fuel pump or the writing and electrical connectors.
Car has pretty much took a dump one morning and has almost no power. I can't find anything else wrong with this car besides this. Is the fuel pump the problem even though I can hear the pump?
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It acts like it is fuel poor, As if the fuel pump is not pumping. It spins fast on start. Then another try and it starts! No relationship to hot or cold. Fuel OK. Battery strong. I find no corrosion on fuel pump leads.
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I have a celica 1.8 st202 that doesn't start. The efi relay and fuse are ok. I tested these and even replaced the relay with another one.
-When I jumper the pins in the diagnose box B+ and FP the engine starts.
-When I remove it the engine won't start.
-When I remove the jumper the fuel pump doesn't get any power.
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I have a Kia Optima, 2007. I've had the car since 2009 and about a year after having it, started having trouble filling the gas tank. I do NOT top off. However, if I allow the tank to fill until the pump shuts off, more often than not, gas comes overflowing back out of the car. Not only is it an environmental concern, but it's also a waste of money because I've now paid for the gas that's pooling on the ground. The amount that comes out varies, but is typically at least a few cups worth. This has happened to my husband as well when he has filled my tank. Neither of us top off. I've brought it to the dealership multiple times and they can find nothing wrong. Someone suggested it was more an issue with the gas pumps not shutting off when they're supposed to, but this happens at varies stations. Plus, no one else I know has this issue, so I can't imagine how this is a gas station issue. The car was rear-ended 6 months after I got the car and the side with the gas tank was pushed into another car, but the damage was minimal (the point of impact was the opposite side). Again, we do NOT top off.
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1987, 2.9 ... I got all my wiring repaired and replaced both the intank pump and the high pressure pump, for a few days it would fire right up as soon as you hit the key but it had a miss (the pumps shut off after a second or two with the key on "RUN"). I tore the throttle body off and cleaned all the carbon out of it, when I put the throttle body back on I noticed that the engine to body ground was loose so I ran a new piece of 4ga from the intake manifold bolt to one of the master cylinder bolts.
After I did this I went to start the truck and no go, the fuel pump turns on with the key but then it wont shut back off until you turn the key off. if you try and start the truck it will crank but wont fire, after about a half hour of cycling the key and cranking it will start to put a little bit then a few tries later it will start but sounds rough when it first fires. I thought it may be a stuck injector so I ran some cleaner through the Schrader valve on the rail. Still have nothing, both pumps do run but still don't shut off after a few seconds like they should and now it wont even try to start.
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The car cranks absolutely 100%, in no way is this the battery, it just will not start. Then I noticed the fuel pump wasn't shutting off, I only had a quarter tank in the car, I figured as hot as it was today I was getting some vapor lock with the fuel. Went and got some gas, still wouldn't start, then the dash started yelling at me telling me I have no oil pressure, shut off the car.........car you are not running calm down. So then there's that along with the car not starting. I took the fuel hose off to make sure I was getting fuel, I was, so I took the key back out, but the car would not give up, the fuel pump kept going and the dash was blinking violently. When I put the hose back on and got compression it finally stopped, that can't be how the cars work can it? The fuel pump doesn't shut off if there's no compression? Checked all fuses and the fuel pump relay, every was fine, the fuel pump even still ran with the relay out. What could be going on, I can't seem to find one damn thing even related to the fuel pump not shutting off.
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I have just replaced a fuel pump on my 98 neon and it started up and then shut off after about 5 minutes. there is electricity running to the pump just not kicking it over what could be the problem
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My 2001 Oldsmobile Alero only starts about 50% of the time and has also turned off twice when I was driving, once in a parking lot and once when I was stopped at an intersection. It cranks and the radio and lights work. The fuel pump was replaced two years ago and sometimes you can hear the pump turn on and sometimes you can't. My husband replaced the fuel pressure regulator and has switched out the fuel pump relay but it hasn't fixed the problem. Based on this, can you tell whether the fuel pump might need to be replaced again or whether it could be something else connected to the fuel pump, or something else entirely? The fuel pump is under warranty at the dealership that replaced it, but unless the fuel pump is bad then I don't want to go back to this dealership and would rather go to different repair shop.
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I have a 2002 ford explore 4.0 sport 4wd. I have a problem with my car, one day I tried starting the car and it didn't want to start. So i replaced the fuel filter and the car started. then after starting it a few times it didn't want to start anymore, so i took of the fuel tank (thinking bad gas, and there was stuff in the gas) so i take out the old gas out and put new gas, and bought a new fuel pump and filter, and when i put the gas tank back on the car, it still didnt want to start, so i take the fuel pump and find a random battery and connected it to the fuel pump and the pump spins so it works. I connected the pump to the car by itself not it the fuel tank (from underneath the car) and i was under the car to see if the pump turns on and someone tuned the car on, and the pump doesn't turn on (doesn't spin or anything). Long Story short, what i should do? Also I was looking for the fuel pump fuse and couldn't find it (thinking it might be the fuse) what is the fuse number or where its located.. i know where the fuel pump relay is, but just not the fuse. Why the pump wouldn't turned on??? The pic is how my fuse box looks like(there are many different version of the fuse box just wanted to show you how mine looks)...
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I have a 2004 MY05 Jap built AWD RX330 that won't start. It is almost 12 yrs old & has 115k miles on it. This is the very 1st problem I've had with it.
Some quick checks indicate that it may be power supply to fuel pump or fuel pump itself. No sounds from it when turning ignition on.
Any wiring diagram for the 5 pin plug for the fuel pump? I'd like to put a meter on it or connect 12V to the pump directly before I remove it.
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A friend has 2005 escape 3l. He called me yesterday saying that he needed replacing his fuel pump.
Before I got to his place he had already replaced the fuel filter...
We got the pump replaced, and when we went to start the vehicle, it still wouldn't start.
We double checked to make sure everything was connected and plugged in and it was. We checked all fuses, and they were all good.
This morning I am going to try jumping the relay and see if that does anything. What else to check?
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I rebuild my celica st182 end grinding(I'm not sure if that's the word) the crankshaft I put 1st repair bearings. Rebuild head and put new oil pump(from e-bay). I bought Eneos 15w40.After 1000km oil pressure lamp began to go off after 2 sec after I start the engine. That starts just when weather temperature rises to 30'C.Today I changed the oil filter and there was no leak from it(empty). What is the problem -oil filter.oil pump,crankshaft gaps or bad oil. When I tried to cut the ignition cable and run starter the oil lamp goes off(warm car). If the car is warm and turn off the engine and started it again lamp goes off immediately. If stays about 4 hours lamp goes off after 2 sec. Tomorrow I'll warm the engine and measure the oil pressure.
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5.4 L, Engine runs if primed at the intake. Fuel pump can be heard running but no fuel gets to the engine. Truck is mint and being sold real cheap due to this issue.
Fuel Pump? Filter? Both? I haven't seen the truck, a friend is considering buying it and rolling the dice it is a quick fix. Fuel is in the tank .....
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My 2001 4.6L F-150 has been sitting on the driveway, used once every 2 weeks or so for the last 3 yrs. I came to start it a few days ago and it kept turning over but not starting. The key security chip is working, battery is charged, all plugs are firing, fuel pump fuse and relay check good. When I turn the key to ON, sometimes I hear the fuel pump priming, other times it doesn't. The times it does prime, the truck fires right up.
The times it doesn't prime, engine won't start. When the pump does prime, and while the engine is running, the pump makes a noticeable buzzing sound, much louder than normal. When the pump primes. fuel pressure measures at 42psi in the ON position, 36psi with engine running, and 46psi with engine running and vacuum hose removed. I believe all these are within specs.
My question is this: Is it safe to assume that the pump is going bad and will eventually fail completely? My second question is (and I know this can be debated til the end of time) should I get the Motorcraft or aftermarket? I have Airtex, Spectra, Carter, and Delphi available locally.
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I was driving my 2004 VW Phaeton V8 (USDM) and stopped at a corner in the neighborhood. I then started going around the corner, when the steering just locked up for no reason and the battery light came on. I then shut down the engine and restarted it, making everything ok. What happened?!?
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I have a 1999 honda civic that has had an issue with randomly shutting off lately. It always happens within a minute of me turning the car on and I usually have to wait several minutes before the car will crank again. When it does the engine shuts off and all lights immediately go off. Once I finally do get the car to crank its hit or miss if it will stay running, but if it makes it through the first minute or so its usually golden. Its like it has to have a perfect connection or something or it wont stay on. The only suggestion I've had from someone is possibly the ignition being bad.
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Often as I slow down and start turning a corner, mostly to the right, my 1998 Lincoln Town Car stalls. I have to pull off to the side of the road, put it in park and then restart it, which it does every time.
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When turning a corner the back end of the car hopes over. 2012 Elantra, 6000 km.
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Having trouble with the EV system? Its suppose to shut down at 25 MPH. Mine on a regular bases shuts down at 10 MPH. Also shuts down when turning corners. Getting the run around with the Toyota Dealer.
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