Celica :: 91 Toyota GT 22R - Spark Plug Three Blew Out Of Cylinder When Take Off From Stop Sign
Apr 2, 2013
I have a 22R sitting in my celica and my problem is that when I was driving home from school I stopped at a stop sign..... Well I started to take off from the stop sign and as I did Spark plug three blew out of the cylinder... (WTF) well anyways I started it back up and drove it 2 blocks to where I live and it backfired and now I have no spark to any of my wires or spark plugs I checked the Main Engine Relay works just fine, For fuel problems anyways.. other than that I believe my timing skipped during that bad backfire so Woohoo for that but any other problems that could have caused "no spark" like my igniter blew out or my coil.. I would like to know where the fuse is (if any) for the igniter.
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
I'm 2 hours from home #10 spark plug blew out I pulled the injector cable and coil cable is it safe to drive home that way?
View 14 Replies
I recently became the owner of a 2000 Ford Excursion V10 (limited) with lots of extras (5.5 inch lift, dual exhaust, 37 inch tires, a 2005 front end, etc).
The intent is to use the excursion as my winter driver, towing vehicle and people hauler (things my 2010 mustang is terrible at). Unfortunately, my 5th time ever driving it, I was pulling out of my driveway and accelerating when the engine blew a spark plug. Since I do not have the tools to install a helicoil, I have taken it to the local shop to get repaired.
I am now concerned about the remaining plugs, and the general reliability of the motor. It has ~200,000 miles on it, and multiple previous owners. I have no way of knowing what work was done on it in the past. I did check all of the fluids when I first got it to ensure they where still good, but are there any other common issues with these V10's that I should check? Can I do anything to prevent any further spark plug blow outs in the future?
View 14 Replies
This has the 2.2 engine with the ignition coil mounted on the firewall, not inside the distributor.
Original not start condition seemed to be fuel related because it tried to sputter on time after it died in the middle of the intersection.
Changed fuel filter, primed and no start.
Checked for spark at the plug wire using a solid wire and touching a ground - no spark on any cylinder.
Tested for voltage at the center distributor cap - have 12 volts - replaced distributor - no spark
Replace ignition coil and ignitor - no spark
The wires all test with the right ohms so I'm not sure what is left to replace.
View 6 Replies
I have a 99 Saturn SL2/auto. Cylinder 1 will not fire. It has spark to the end of the plug. But the cylinder will not fire. No oil is getting on the plug it isn't fouling out. A brand new plug doesn't work at all. The cylinder is DEAD!
View 8 Replies
I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 that I bought used a couple of years ago. About every 20k miles (120k miles on it now) I get a check engine light and upon diagnosis it's the 4th cylinder spark plug fouled out, every time. I change the spark plug, but the old ones are always identical in damage. The porcelain has cracked on the spark plug.
View 17 Replies
Getting error code p0302, misfire in 2, pulled the plug and had oil on the treads and on the lower part. My guess is the valve cover gasket, but I'm not 100 percent sure.
View 18 Replies
My son has a 2001 F150 with a 4.6L V8 that's blown a sparkplug from # 3 cylinder. The plug looks as if struck by lightning and has a burn groove as deep as a kitchen match stem the full length of the threads.
How difficult is an engine swap/change using another 4.6L? Neither of us have extensive mechanical backgrounds but plenty of aptitude.
View 4 Replies
How to get the spark plug out of cylinder #4. I have the kit to take out the base of the plug out of the head if it breaks off. But I can't get the plug out. I think the plug broke off but not the electrode. So the electrode is caught up in the porcelain tip of the plug. It's pretty tight back there with the a/c lines and fuel rail and other stuff. I tried needle nose but they just don't grip it right, to get enough force to pull it. These are the plugs with the extended tips.
View 6 Replies
With the many discussions on F150 spark plug blow outs, is there any consistency in which Cylinders usually go or is it completely random. In my 2003 F150, 4.6, 2wd, I've replaced #3 cylinder with insert and now #2. Currently I'm at 154,000 miles but want to travel cross country with a load. I don't want to stall out on the hwy, would it be wise to go and insert the remaining cylinders - not cheap. My mechanic is willing to inspect with a bore scope the threads and re-torque. Is there a point at which if it hasn't been a problem it won't be. Truck is used primarily for commuting and to pull a single jet ski in the summer. Both blow-outs happened at a stop-light about 20,000 miles apart with no load.
Follow-up. Did inspection, found cylinder #7 nearly stripped out - it was actually pushing up the coil. Funny thing is, this plug had already the small insert which was coming out with the plug. I bought the vehicle new. Was this a factory repair? or did my previous mechanic strip-it when replacing all my plugs at 95,000 miles? Lucking the large inserts my current mechanic uses was able to find some metal and make a good repair. Looking at the cylinder order, I have now replaced 3 of the inter four cylinders (2,3,7) should have I done #6 too, this is probably the next high risk cylinder or not?
View 1 Replies
I am getting a cylinder 5 misfire and this has been a "on again off again" situation since last August. I took it around to a few places and the general solution was to get new spark plugs. After doing a bit more research I was advised to change the coil cover. I did that and it fixed the problem. Then about 4 months later the light came on again. I happened to change the air filter and the light went off. I though great, problem solved! not so much, when i went to the mountains the other day the light came back on. I did my research again and I have decided to get the plugs changed. Its a 2005 f150 with 94,500 miles on it.
I am told its time to change them regardless. I started calling around and getting quotes and have been told by multiple shops that ford made the plugs in my truck in a bad way. They have been telling me to change them and breaking them is a 50/50 shot. THEN, when they quote me they charge a rate to replace them plus the plugs themself. If they happen to break one then the customer pays for the new one. Do the plugs would really break that easy and should I plan on replacing some of them?
View 14 Replies
1987 Toyota Celica GTS 2.0 manual Transmission The Problem ... The power cable to alternator sparked on the side of the engine when I was connecting it. I did not think the battery cable was connected at the time but it was.. Now I have NO SPARK I have changed all the fuses at the battery could not find any that were blown but still changed them and checked all the fuses under kick panels none were blown. What should I look for now?
View 4 Replies
I just bought a 2000 Toyota Camry 4 cylinder with 150K miles. It drove great for a week. Now it wants to cut off when I'm at a stoplight or stop sign. When I press the gas there is no acceleration and very sluggish. This is when it wants to cut off and does about half the time. At normal driving speeds it drives great. The Check engine light also came on. Advance Auto Parts store read the codes and it's P440, p441, p446 and P106. All have to do with evaporative emission control.
View 3 Replies
I have a 02 F250 with 137 thousand miles. When it had 130 thousand on it I had the plugs changed unknowing that this year 5.4 was known for blowing the plugs.
View 14 Replies
I recently was given a 96 Toyota Celica 1.8L Auto 7AFE and I have been trying to troubleshoot some problems.
It started a year ago when my brother drove it to work and then after work it would not start back up. It sat for a while and now its mine. Problem is I was not getting any spark at all a while back when we tested it. I thought maybe the distributor. The other day it happened to just randomly start after a year of not starting. It made a small pop in the cylinder then boom ran just great until it warmed up and proceeded to shut down, would not restart. Checked the spark and it was very weak (yellow) and just seemed to be a slow spark, not firing as fast as I would think. Today I put a new distributor with a new cap and rotor in and boom she fires up immediately. Let it warm up fully shut it down, restarts fine, shut it down again and now it will not restart. Last time I tested fuel was fine, seems as if I am getting an intermittent spark and usually starts when it cools off.
Not sure what to do now, where to look. The wires seem ok with no corrosion but I have only worked on the 2.2L and I am lost!
View 4 Replies
I'm trying to turn the crankshaft by hand to verify my timing belt alignment, but meeting some resistance. is this because I have the spark plugs in? do i have to take them out to turn the crank? also, that little groove in the belt guide doesn't seem to line up with anything or get held by the rib on the crankshaft. does that matter, or have i got it installed wrong?
View 1 Replies
2001 Ford F350 V10, 220K in crap condition
First of all on the left side 2 of the coils were so withered the rubber separated from the bolt and were loose. Without any tools I was able to remove 2 coils. Typically there is the hole and several inches inside hole is where the spark plug sits.
On cylinder 4 the spark plug is on a funny angle and is level with the hole or possibly poking up above the hole. Tried sticking the ignition coil over the spark plug but it wasn't correct. Leaving it alone until my cousin can take a look. Spark plug was tight but I didn't put a ratchet on it.
Wondering, is this the infamous spark plug blew threw the cylinder thing. Wish I would have taken a picture (I will next time I'm with truck).
Had codes for misfires on 4 cylinders but that was with 2 coils unplugged (way I got truck at auction)....I replaced 3 of them (1/2/6).Cleared codes...4th cylinder remained unplugged....And the only code I got after letting truck idle for 10 minutes was something about ignition coil D (which would line up with cylinder 4 I think).
View 6 Replies
I need to tap a bigger hole and put in an insert for the spark plug. I can see that the piston is far enough down so that it won't get harmed from the process. But if I don't get the intake and exhaust valves shut, and then use compressed air to blow out what chips I can, and then I start the engine for a few seconds to blow out anything else (with the coil unplugged of course) will a few remaining chips, along with some that may have gotten blown into the intake, be a big problem? It's an aluminum head, so I can't see the chips doing much damage before they go out the exhaust or end up in the oil filter. But I am just guessing. I don't have the tool to test when all the valves are shut. Also, is it possible that a valve might be in the way and get damaged from the tap?
View 11 Replies
I have a Toyota 2001 Echo and after about 5 min of driving, it starts to stutter when I step on the gas and shake back/forth. It gets worse going up hills. Once it starts, it continues at any speed and doesn't have the normal power but doesn't die. Stepping on the gas harder doesn't increase the RPMs like it should. Thinking it might be the spark plugs, I removed the cap on one plug and found the well with about 2 cm of clear, yellow oil. Is this bad? if so, how bad?
View 6 Replies
I have a 1995 Corolla which is facing misfire issue and randomly turn off at stop sign the code I am getting is 26 which is rich fuel ratio. I have changed the O2 sensor car has new spark plugs and spark plug wires both NGK. the problem started when I installed the new distributor. one of the member here had the same problem.
Here is the person who had the same problem: [URL] .....
View 7 Replies
my wife drives a 2008 toyota camry 4cyl. she has about 86000 miles so i figured i would do a little tune up. change plugs, filters, injector clean, etc. while changing the plugs i seem to have broken 3 of the 4 pressure tabs on the plugs that plug into the coil. for the time being i have the pressure tap electrical taped very tightly onto the plug. What I should do? or is that common to for those to break off. I didn't even really use a lot of pressure either.
View 2 Replies
