Celica :: 91 Engine Overheat And Smoke Underneath The Car
May 13, 2012
My engine started to overheat and I have a very specific stream of smoke coming from, what I believe, is the water outlet housing. I'm pretty sure the hoses that are connected to it are heater hoses of some sort. My question is what would make that specific area smoke?!? I have oil, I have plenty of coolant, although there was coolant leakage the first time I noticed the smoke underneath the car right about dead center, there wasn't a distinct epicenter of fluid, which lead me to rule out failing water pump. Got the diagnostic codes and the coolant temperature sensor checked out fine as well. Did not see any specific spots for leaking, just coolant sprayed everywhere on the underside of the car, behind the engine, towards the middle of the car and smoke coming from that water outlet housing.
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My girlfriends Camry (111K) just recently started leaking a dime size oil drip on the passenger side of the car underneath the engine. Every start up there's a decent size billow of blue/white smoke. Only thing visible under hood is the valve cover lower left size has a tiny bit of oil run down.
I read another thread similar to my issue and it sounds like valve stem seals leaking and burning? Could this be related to the leak in the driveway? What needs to be done and how serious is the billow of smoke?
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I have a 1992 celica GT 2.2l A/T. I was on my way home today from college and my car started to overheat right before i made it home. It was steaming a bit and the temp gauge was tacked out. when i pulled into my apartment i noticed a light brown colored liquid in my parking spot, and alot of it.
I saw this same liquid at my college campus and assumed it was a coffee someone spilled near my car, but now i know it came from my car. I haven't had a chance to check my houses yet as i just got home and my cars still really hot. I know its not power steering fluid b/c that's been empty all week b/c my reservoir leaks. Why my car is overheating and what liquid is coming from it. Oh also the liquid seems to be coming from the right front portion of the car.
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95 Toyota Celica wouldn't start. Jumped off the battery and it starts but kills after only a few minutes. White smoke pours from the engine area - smoke not steam. I'm selling this car and have been starting and running it a couple times a week. This is the first time it's done this.
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I have a 2000 vw Gti vr6. It leaks coolant smokes and starts to over heat when idling. Does fine when driving down the road. It has a new radiator. When pressure tested I can see a little stream of coolant coming out. But there's no space in the engine bay and I can't see exactly where it's coming from. Like I said it only happens when it's Idling for an extended period of time. It does fine going down the road.
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Recently, my car has been sounding louder than usual. It seems to be coming from under the vehicle, and when I checked, there was smoke coming from a pipe underneath. My best guess is that the exhaust is leaking. It kind of looks like there's a disconnect here....
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Our 2009 F-250 in our signature with 53,000 miles on it recently had a transmission episode that has me concerned. We were towing our fifth-wheel camper which weighs around 9000 lbs. We were nearly home on a 275 mile trip. All interstate at speeds of no more than 67 MPH. As I was in the process of exiting the interstate on the last 12 miles of our journey I noticed some smoke coming from underneath the truck. I immediately stopped and got under the truck and noticed transmission fluid running down from the top of the transmission and dripping onto the crossover exhaust pipe.
I let the truck idle for several minutes and it seemed to stop dripping fluid, or at least it had slowed considerably. I took off again being very careful not to gas it up at all, if fact I was very light footed with it from there on home. The ScanGauge II showed the transmission temp. had never got above 186 all the way home and it was at about 185 at the time I saw the smoke. The ambient temperature was around 90 and the truck had not labored at all on the way home. It would do the usual down shifting at overpasses but since I installed the 4.30 gears it doesn't do all that much shifting with the cruise control set on around 65-66 MPH.
I couldn't see where the oil was coming from but it was toward the top of the transmission. The transmission acted perfectly normal in every way even at the time of the dripping.
As I said, I took it plenty easy all the remaining 12 miles home and the tranny temp. dropped down to around 181. I parked the truck and camper on our asphalt driveway and saw no sign of drippage after it was parked. I fired the truck up the morning after this incident and drove it pulling the camper until the transmission temp. got to 185 and came home and parked it on the asphalt again and saw no signs of any leakage.
I checked the transmission fluid level per the instructions in the owners manual and it appeared to be right up to full. I don't believe it was over full. It smelled like it was new without a hint of any burnt odor. I bought the truck with 31,000 miles on it and had the dealer at which I purchased it change the transmission fluid at that time so it should be in very good condition.
I am going into a very busy time with this truck and can't chance any down time if it can be avoided. According to the research I did at the time I purchased this truck the automatic transmissions Ford used in the 2009 F-250 are pretty much bullet proof if maintained properly and not overly abused. This one has been well maintained and I've NEVER abused it. I wanted a manual trans. at the time I bought this unit but could not find one anywhere. I'm not a big slush-a-matic fan and I sincerely hope this one doesn't make me realize my long standing fear of slush-a-matic transmissions.
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I replaced my exhaust manifold gasket, which also required replacing the cat and flange gaskets. For the first hour or so when I first fired up the engine, there was smoke coming from all three gaskets and i though "I'm such a loser. They are all leaking".
Today I looked and they don't seem to be doing that anymore. Was that just the gaskets curing or something? My fingers couldn't tell if anything was coming out of the seems. How do you definitively determine if there are any small leaks? Do I need IR goggles or something?
Also, looks like I need to replace the pipe between cat 1 and and what appears to be cat 2.
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I was in traffic the other day on the express way and I noticed my engine was starting to overheat. I think it has something to do with the AC because as soon as I turned it off the temp went back to normal. What it could be?
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My 1997 Saturn SL has had an odd overheating problem for several years now. When idling the engine starts to overheat, but the fan does not kick in until/unless I turn on the AC.( I do a lot of idling, as I work from the car a good deal.) I've had the car serviced, even had the fan specifically checked in the shop, & had the AC components changed out last year (whole other issue, barely blows cool air). But the overheating abides.
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My engine temp indicator shows overheat to the red line, however when I stop the car I can put my hand on the radiator cap and leave it there. No signs of any leaks anywhere. The top radiator hose on the drivers side is hot. Engine runs fine. Oil on dipstick clean. I can't find anything to back up my temp indication. What else I can look for? 1987 chev caprice classic brougm ls 5.o liter.
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We have base line 2004 Cavalier coupe that has about 130K miles on it. It is currently doing two things: When the car is idling the engine begins to overheat, and the air conditioning goes awol. As soon as forward movement begins again, the temperature goes back to acceptable levels, and the air conditioning becomes cool again. Since these problems occur simultaneously, it leads me to think they might be related.
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The engine fan in my 2003 MC SS doesn't seem to be working and the car is starting to overheat. The other fan, which I think is the A/C fan seems to be working okay. I know nothing about cars and before I take this to a mechanic. I do not want to go somewhere and get totally ripped off. So it would be nice if I appear to know what I am talking about... when I take it to the mechanic.
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I have a 2003 Honda Civic with 140k miles. It has a leaking head gasket which is causing the engine to overheat when driving slower without airflow to cool the engine.
I would love to drive the car to 200k+ miles but if this is the first of many pricey fixes I want to cut my losses.
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Gen3 Prius. Once it turned 100k miles I took it in for an inverter coolant change per the maintenance schedule. The dealer charged $109 for this and the car had absolutely no issues prior. Got the coolant changed on 7/23 and then drove it short distances in town for two weeks with no issues. Once I drove it on weekend longer road trip got a check engine light P0A93 "inverter A cooling system performance". Shortly there after started getting hybrid overheat alerts and pulled over to let it cool.
I checked the inverter coolant reservoir and it was still above full. After letting things cool, I turned it back on and listened to the water pump. Seemed to be running fine, heard it clearly with my ear up to a long screw driver, touching the pump. Noticed that the hose leading to the pump was vibrating but the return hose out of the inverted was not. Also no turbulence in the reservoir. My guess is that they didn't bleed air out of the system.
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I have about 2500 miles on my manual MK7 GTI (bought it with about 70 dealership miles) and ever since I got it it's been having these weird little backfires/slight sputtering while idling.
I'll be idling at a stoplight, and I'll feel a few little kicks/vibrations underneath my seat accompanied with a light engine shake. It's very hard to describe, but it's been bothering me since I got it, as none of my other cars have done it and I don't know what is causing it.
I have always pumped 93 octane gas and even made sure the dealership pumped 93 octane when they gave me the free tank. Not sure what they pumped before that.
I went to a Mobil gas station last night to top off my tank (a little under 1/2 full) and no later than 5 minutes after pulling away from the gas station, I was cruising in 4th gear at around 40-45 mph when I felt the engine sputter. It was only for a brief second or two, but I clearly felt the engine sputter then pick itself back up. This happened another 2-3 times on the way home.
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The knocking started very suddenly 2 days ago - but not after any unusual events, other work etc. Truck has 145 K, and otherwise starts & runs perfectly. Doesn't use oil.
I heard it from in the cab, windows closed. At first, thought it may be a rod bearing - but if so, not terribly loud. Didn't drive it any more after getting home. But starting it in the drive, the knocking was audible.
Then I discovered it * completely disappeared * several times, after shutting off engine, then restart a few seconds later. When that happens, absolutely no knocking at idle or reeving it up a bit. But it may return on the next 1 or 2 restarts, then disappear again.
Since the knocking * completely stopped * on some restarts, does that rule out a bad rod or main bearing?
I haven't seen oil gauge pressure fluctuation, whether it's knocking or not. The gauge is where it's always been - well above 1/2 way. But, the gauge also doesn't move when I rev it to around 2000 RPM (? may be normal not to move, after engine's already running?). When the knocking is happening, increasing RPMs also increases the knocking frequency.
Can't hear the knocking from top side of engine w/ hood open - even using rubber hose to my ear & moving it around. But (when) it knocks, can easily hear it inside the cab or under the truck.
From underneath, knocking is more in the center of truck, near the back of block / oil pan or tranny bell housing. I can't isolate the noise as more on one side of the block than the other.
Could the oil pump itself be making a knocking noise? The knocking is "similar to" a rod knocking, but doesn't seem quite as "hammer on metal" metallic.
There are no DTCs showing on my scanner. Only odd thing was, for "O2 Monitor Test," it showed "vehicle did not return data for any O2 monitor test." Though under the scanner "I/M Monitors," it shows O2 Sens Mon. "OK," and O2 Sens Htr "OK."
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My brother was the original owner then passed it on to me. I then passed it on to my younger cousin about two years ago. The car is completely stock and has never been modified. Everything is OEM.Just a couple of weeks ago I was called by my cousin saying the car broke down on her .The problem is that we took it to a few mechanic shops but they still haven't fixed it ...
Problem with car: When pressing on the gas, the idle drops and then the car dies (a scary event that happened to us and on a main road). I do not wish to bring it to another fail mechanic shop.What the shops did: changed all fluids, distributor cap and plugs, new spark plugs, and replaced air intake piping with oem piping.
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So I have been tying to find out what the Temp rating for a 7A-FE for so I know what thermostat to get. How impossible is it too find this info sometimes?
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So I just recently bough a Celica GTS off an old friend, and the test drive went smoothly. Bought of course, as soon as I got it home, things started going bad.
Sitting in the driveway for a moment, I started to feel the car shake when the engine was idling. I ran the engine up to 1.5K RPMS and it smoothed out, but you could still feel it, just barely. As soon as you let it drop down to the 1K, its horrible again.
Temperatures were fine, no trouble codes. I've Isolated it to the 2nd cylinder from the right, and I've already checked plugs/wires and done compression tests on all 4 cylinders. Fuel injectors are also working fine.
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Where is the TPS on the 2ZZGE engine? I bought an OE part from bap geon and i cant find it on the car to save my life.
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