I have an 89 Celica GT that idles at 2000 RPM when first started up and even when it's warm it is still at about 1500 RPM. How to lower that? I failed my emissions test because it put out too much CO and the idle speed was one of the suspected problems.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 Celica GTS that idles a little rough it has 118000 miles on it.. Fluctuates between 500 rpm and about 1100 rpm. Doesnt always do this, usually after ive been driving for a while. I also may have a rod knock, what parts would i need to fix both of these issues? Me and some friends can do the work ourselves, i just need the parts.
View 1 RepliesSo lately my 2000 Jetta GLS hasn't been running that smooth I can tell when I'm changing gearing and when I start the car and the car idles around 1000 RPMs. I think it may be the engine miss firing because some times I can feel the car shaking but I have no check engine light. Lucky... Also the coolant is leaking idk what the exact problem is but everywhere I go there is a puddle of coolant under my car.
View 2 RepliesI was driving my 2000 celica gt and it started making an awful sound. It was clunking and started slipping. The rpm's held constant but the car was going slower. I had it towed home. I have driven it a few times and the noise is still present once the car was going down the road in third gear and the front wheels locked up and the car screeched to a halt. it can be put into gear and driven at slow speeds. I assume that the transmission has failed. If it is in fact the transmission there is a gt-s with a 6 speed at the local junk yard. From what i read the swap is direct bolt in. Is that true and does the shifter need to be changed?
View 1 RepliesI just swapped the 1.8 7a-fe for a fresher 1.8 7a-fe. Everything is properly assembled, but when I start it up it idles low and doesn't run smoothly. As if it weren't timed correctly... My buddy claims it is though, and he ran it with a timing light.
Another issue is black exhaust, I'm not sure if they bare any relation but I know black exhaust cannot be good..
Okay, little back story me and my dad pulled this 1986 Toyota Celica gts out of the wood after been left to rot with a broken timing belt. Anyways we fixed it, got it legally driving, everything was great. Well minus the acorns that blow out the vents when the ac was on. I was going to work one day and the oil pump locked up and broke the timing belt. We then had the motor rebuild .04 over I think... It ran like a brand new car but shortly after about 3 months I noticed every time I got in the car to go somewhere the idle was going up with each start of the motor. Now after sitting for a long time I really wish to get it running again.
It hasn't been started in a while, 2 years maybe. As I'm afraid that it might hurt the newly rebuild motor. It last idled at a constant 3500 RPM, if you're driving down the road it just keeps going tell you find yourself in 5th gear. It wants to take off from stop signs like a rocket as well... I know its not the cpu because we got one and swapped it out and it still does it we done a few other thing like check timing and try to adjust the idle screw checked the distributor cap. it has no codes flashing when using the jumper next to the engine. it has all brand new parts alternate, water pump, o2 sensor, fuel pump, oil pump, fuel injectors. I think that's about it.
Well, a couple months ago my engine started making a noise. We located the issue to be a loose timing belt. We had it tightened, and the noise stopped, but since then it kind of acted like it was a little out of time with rough idles every now and then. This past week, I had driven my car out. I came to a 4-way stop and the car shut off on me. It would not immediately start back up so I pushed it to the side and waited a bit. It started up after sitting for a few minutes and cooling down. I got it back home and it stalled right as I was turning into my driveway (after the RPMs had lowered to idle).
A couple of days ago I set out to replace the timing belt as it seemed to me the timing was off ever since we tightened the belt and it eventually got worse, thus the stalling. I changed the timing belt, set the timing on the cams the way it shows to be set below:
I set the timing on the crankshaft pulley to the specifications found in this video:
Which is putting the crankshaft pulley on and turning it until it aligns with the '0' mark on the bottom timing cover. So I decide to start the car without anything else on to make sure its in time. It fires right up so I shut it off quickly and go about putting it all back together.
Once the car is completed, I attempt to start it again. It fires up, I back it up and it dies. It would not start back. I waited a few minutes and attempted to start it again, it started up so I pulled it back up to the same spot it was in and shut it off. Took the pieces off again, got it back to where I could line the timing up again. I again set the timing one more time to make sure. It was set correctly. I then tried starting the car again and this time it would not crank.
I gave up for now as its 30 degrees outside and I have been working on it non stop for 3 days to no avail.
I have a 1989 toyota Celica ST with a 2.0 in it.
I have idle problems after the car has ran for about 1.5- 2 hours. It has a new cap and wires and plugs and a new intake on it and it still does it. I have it parked for winter right now because it cant get around in the ND winters so i'm just trying to get some ideas right now.
Also i pulled the cap off and there was oil in it.
So I've had a problem with my celica. I've changed the vsv and the vacuum switching air control valve (Vsacv) ... I think the Vsacv went out already. New timing belt.. Engine is timed 10btdc. Cleaned intake and checked all vacuum lines
So the problem is that my Car idles at 2200 and will not drop unless I adjust the dist. Then the car bogs out. Put a new tps on last year which fixed the crazy idling but didn't fix the high idle... And it only drives good when the idle is that high....
I have a 2003 Jetta. After it runs for awhile, if I have to shut it off and start it back up - I have to pump the gas to get it started and it idles high and gets flooded. I can smell gas after it gets started. A mechanic already replaced the ignition coil, which wasn't the problem at all.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1992 celica GT 2.2l A/T. I was on my way home today from college and my car started to overheat right before i made it home. It was steaming a bit and the temp gauge was tacked out. when i pulled into my apartment i noticed a light brown colored liquid in my parking spot, and alot of it.
I saw this same liquid at my college campus and assumed it was a coffee someone spilled near my car, but now i know it came from my car. I haven't had a chance to check my houses yet as i just got home and my cars still really hot. I know its not power steering fluid b/c that's been empty all week b/c my reservoir leaks. Why my car is overheating and what liquid is coming from it. Oh also the liquid seems to be coming from the right front portion of the car.
My 2000 celica is leaking engine oil from the rear of the motor on the driver side ( passenger side for the U.S). the oil drips are quite insignificant at the moment with only a small amount leaking on the garage floor, but a leak is a leak and i want it fixed. ive tried my hardest to find the source of the leak but i just cant squeeze my head in well enough to see where it is coming from as the engine bay with the 2zz motor is pretty tight! the car only has 116k KMS on the clock (72k MILES) and is regularly serviced so it doesn't make that a seal is on its way out already, but from the area that ive isolated it to, it looks like its the crank pulley or seal....
View 3 RepliesI have a mkv r32 turbo. It had C2 910cc software, car ran great. I had to change to UM 870cc software and injectors in order to get UM dsg stage 3 tune. I had it out for test ride, ran nicely for 2 miles. Then i started to increase throttle, a loud back fire, so i pulled over. It stalled, i restarted it, ran for about 5 secs at 14.5 afr, then sputtered to 10s afr, the stalled out completely.
Had it towed home, all 6 plugs were black. VCSD mobile log states multiple misfire and misfire #6. I put new plugs and switched coil packs, same issue.
I have a ford f250 with a 5.4l 2v engine and lately it started to shake when it idles. i have changed all the ignition coils and spark plugs, the injector are fine, but i cant seem to pinpoint the problem. the weird thing is that there are no codes. the fuel trim on bank 1 is around -8 and bank 2 is at almost positive 20 and higher.
View 14 RepliesI have a well maintained '96 Celica 2.2 and for the first time in years it started acting up on the way home last night.
I got on the highway and was cruising at 65 and it started hesitating and popping and finally forced me to the side of the road. I was then able to start off again and reached about 60 all the way home but it was hesitating and not a smooth ride at all.
When I got to a red light at the off ramp, it died. I started it and it drove rough on local streets until I got home.
This morning I started it and it fired right up but then died immediately. Did that twice. Just tried again and it won't even start but just pops and makes noises like it's out of gas, even though 1/2 full.
Check Engine Light is on. I tried jumping E1 and TE1 but nothing happened.
I have a 85 toyota celica gts 5 speed 22re the other day I was driving it and it started running out I cut it off as soon as it started let it cool down and noticed I was low on water so I put some more in and limped it home. When I got home I let it set over night. The next day I poured some more water in it instantly it poured it on the ground never cranked it or anything. It is pouring it out of the left side of the motor. I thought it was hg but I checked the oil no milky look to it I checked all around the water pump and the two main radiator hoses nothing. I can borrow it down between the oil filter and the front of the motor but just. Can't find the source.
View 1 RepliesI got 91 celica gts recently started to tap when the motor is warm I've changed cap button wires plugs still getting this noise might be chatter but only when warm not there when cold.
View 5 RepliesQuick back story I bought a 1999 Ford Ranger It is a 4 cyl with an auto trans the guy said it had some trouble with the tranny (major understatement) he also forgot to mention he cut out the CAT. so running a 4 banger off the header.
When you start the truck it rough idles but you have to hold the gas down til it warms up. You can shift into reverse but it labors the motor and the motor will not up the rpms kinda stays at idle and wants to die no matter how hard you accelerate and you can't move up a slight incline.
When you shift into drive you have to rev the motor to 3 grand an it will catch then move slowly forward. no matter how high the revs go. The fluid levels are a tad above the full level and a bit dark for my liking.
Ok, I used an OBDII scan tool from the parts store and it came up with 3 codes P0351, P0352, P0500. From my internet search the first two seem to be coil related which explains why the motor is running like garbage. The last may or may not have to do with what the tranny is doing.
I replaced my 7AFE engine in my Celica 1997 1.8 with another 7AFE engine. The replacement engine had a different wiring harness, so I kept my original wiring harness.
After the swap, I started the engine and it stopped by itself after about 30-60 seconds.
Now it wont start. I have fuel, but no spark. I have tried three different distributors.
I have tried to read the fault codes, with connecting TE1 and E1, but no engine light lights up in the dash.
Car started idling funny and stalling. Finally wouldn't start. Changed crusty spark plugs, started up once, then stalled and wont start again. Checked for spark, no spark. Changed crust dist cap and rotor and ignition coil and still no spark. Checked ignitor activity and appears to be working.
What else is there? There's a little doofer next to the coil that looks like it has two wires come out of it, looks magnetic (has metal shavings on it, probably from old rotor)... Could the ignition switch be the problem? It cranks, but no spark.
So I just replaced the timing belt, water pump, power steering pressure line and all associated seals and gaskets including the oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket. I fired the car up and everything appeared to be fine so I decided the next step was a nice little drive just to make sure all was well.
Everything checked out until I was a couple hundred feet from my driveway when I stopped to talk to a neighbor the oil pressure light started to flicker on and off, occasionally it stayed on for a second or two. when I accelerate the light goes away. I have not put a pressure gauge on it yet.
For example lets just say the pressure is good??? then what??? and the oil pressure switch is brand new. the oil pump passed the inspection listed in the manual and the only thing I did that it didn't tell me to was assemble the oil pump with some assembly lube after changing the shaft seal and housing gasket.