Just recently the front of of my car starts shaking violently when I reach speeds of about 57-60-mph. It also feels unstable when I make sharp turns. I've noticed my alignment has gotten worse since this issue has begun. Tire wear looks normal except for small indentation on side wall of front right tire.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 F250 with the 5.4 triton engine. Automatic transmission. When I reach 35 mph (sometimes sooner) the truck will shake horribly when I reach lower rpms. It will do this up to 65 mph and then it mostly stops. Completely taking my foot off the gas will stop the shaking, as well as shifting into neutral.
I know for sure that the truck has a cylinder 3 misfire as well as a minor exhaust leak, could either of these be causing it? Don't have the money to fix either of the problems for another couple weeks, is it safe to drive until then or should I play it safe?
I can see this whenever i stop at a red light, once i accelerate the shaking is gone, and the headlights are really bright once again. I already replaced the alternator..
View 6 RepliesThis is the 1.8, manual trans. Was involved in a moderate front collision. Car starts and runs, but not for long. What to check?
View 1 RepliesMy car starts up and it runs for about 5-10 min and then shuts off. then it will not start again while it is hot, if i leave it sit overnight then it will start again but the same problem will occur. the engine also has a misfire from the moment i start it up, how to diagnose this problem. And after you diagnose it can you tell me ways i can check the problems. for example if you say its the fuel pump tell me how to check to see if my pump is working.
Country: United States
Make: Toyota
Model: Celica GTS
Year: 2000
Engine: 2zzge
Already Tried: Here's what I've done to my car recently: I have new engine coils, new fuel filter, new spark plugs, new thermostat. I got my fuel injectors cleaned, new mass airflow sensor, new water pump.
Car shakes real bad when it turns over and then at different speeds. 25-30 it'll shake more, along with 45-50 and around 70 mph.
Mechanic friend says motor mounts which would make since cause the one thats visible has cracks in the rubber.
But the shop my father takes the car into says it needs a new drive shaft.
I have a 1995 Toyota Celica 1.8L hatchback with automatic transmission. Car starts shutting down around 100mph. How to remove the governor or restrictor or whatever it is that's holding the engine from its full potential.
View 6 RepliesI have an 04 celica gt with around 168 k miles on it. Recently I have noticed a distinct metal on metal rattling noise whenever I accelerate at low speeds. It seems to be my exhaust as when I rev it up in park it makes the noise. But it doesn't ever make the noise when I'm on the expressway or cruising at back roads speeds. When I got under and looked at my exhaust everything looked normal?
View 3 RepliesOur '91's speedometer needle wobbles +/- 5mph at lower speeds, but evens out and becomes steady at higher speeds.
View 4 RepliesWhenever I go over about 50 MPH it starts shaking like the dickens. We have a lot of snow around so I'm thinking i just have messed up alignment from hitting snow chunks but who knows. [URL] ....
View 6 RepliesFor some time I've thought my starter is going bad because I'll have to hit the ignition multiple times for it to actually start...I've even had to resort to push-starting it a couple of times. How can I tell if this is a bad starter or something else like the main relay?
View 4 RepliesI recently was given a 96 Toyota Celica 1.8L Auto 7AFE and I have been trying to troubleshoot some problems.
It started a year ago when my brother drove it to work and then after work it would not start back up. It sat for a while and now its mine. Problem is I was not getting any spark at all a while back when we tested it. I thought maybe the distributor. The other day it happened to just randomly start after a year of not starting. It made a small pop in the cylinder then boom ran just great until it warmed up and proceeded to shut down, would not restart. Checked the spark and it was very weak (yellow) and just seemed to be a slow spark, not firing as fast as I would think. Today I put a new distributor with a new cap and rotor in and boom she fires up immediately. Let it warm up fully shut it down, restarts fine, shut it down again and now it will not restart. Last time I tested fuel was fine, seems as if I am getting an intermittent spark and usually starts when it cools off.
Not sure what to do now, where to look. The wires seem ok with no corrosion but I have only worked on the 2.2L and I am lost!
I own a 1996 Toyota Celica. When the car is cold it starts and run for about 5 minutes then dies. When I try to start the car, with the key in the 'on' position, I have no check engine light. If I crank the engine and release the key to the 'run' position, the 'check engine' light turns on. When the car is cold or I leave it to rest for a couple hours and I turn the key on the 'check engine' light turns on. it is after the car stalls out i have this problem. At this point if I spray some starter fluid into the intake the car attempts to start. I thought that it was the pump so I installed a new one. Fuel pressure is good. It seems to me that the injectors are not working.
Is it the computer? Given that fuel is getting to the injectors but the injectors are not firing, Given that I have ignition since when I spray starter fluid into the intake the car fires up and runs until it runs out of starter fluid. Where do I start? I have not used a noid light as yet to check the injector harness and as you all know the harness is a little difficult to get at because of its location under the intake.
I have a 90 Celica GTS thats a 5 speed, and the last month or so when going at slow speeds and turning, it almost sounds like tires rubbing bad on the fenders. But they are clearly not. There is also some resistance too when turning. I've checked the PS fluid and its full and not leaking.
View 2 RepliesI have an 08 Camry v6 with 33K. Over the past 3-4 months I've noticed the wheel shaking at all speeds but got worse around 65-70mph. Went to the dealer a few weeks back and he put 2 new Michelin on the front, balanced all wheels and gave me a 4 whel alignment. The shaking at lower speeds is still there but not as bad, but around 60-70 MPH the wheels is all over the place in terms of shaking and controlling lanes. What it could be....
View 2 RepliesI have a 1995 Buick LeSabre with just over 100,000 miles on it. Recently it has begun to shake at low speeds. The car shakes as if it were driving over a rough gravel road, and makes a sort of chugging noise when I step on the accelerator at speeds from 15-25 miles per hour. When I accelerate beyond 25, the shaking stops, and the car stops making the chugging noise as well. It drives beautifully on the interstate, but horribly when I am in town. After taking the car for a drive on the interstate for about 30 minutes one day, the shaking at low speeds actually ceased for over a week, but then came back. The "check engine" light has not come on. I maintain the car regularly, getting oil and filters changed, fluids filled, etc. I'm wondering if this sounds like it could be caused by a problem I can fix myself, or if I need to have the car looked at by a professional.
View 2 RepliesI posted a couple weeks ago about my sonata beginning to shake at speeds above 60 mph. I took it to a local dealer, who could not find a problem, so I took it to the dealer and they said I need to replace the rack and pinion, gat my car aligned and balance and rotate my tires. I am concerned this is not the problem and the dealership is trying to get money out of me, especially since I had my tires balanced before seeing them.This problem is intermittent and happens in the afternoon, not at morning or evening times. It takes about 15 mins to begin to shake and will stop if I get off the interstate and come to a full stop.
View 4 RepliesOk my 2000 Toyota Celica GTS is having 2 very bad issues.
1st - It is hesitating very bad when doing "cold starts" and nearly dies when I turn the A/C on (engine code reads : Random/Multiple Misfires on all 4 cylinders)
2nd - I have to put in 1 pint of Anti Freeze every single WEEK! It is not leaking on the ground as far as i can tell too.
92 Celica at speeds of 35 or less brakes feel fine. At higher speeds the pedal sorta chatters with light pressure. If I press harder the pedal is smooth. Is this warped rotors or possibly something loose in the assembly? The car does not pull to either side the brake pedal just vibrates under light pressure at higher stopping speeds.
If it is a warped rotor will I be able to check for it with a mic or caliper? I do not have a dial indicator to check run in or run out. I do use a good machine shop with an machinist that I trust, but I would rather not pull rotors unless I have to.
Now I know this is not just tired mechanic syndrome and is a real problem with the car.
I have had a wobbly wheel since I can remember, it starts at about 55. I have replaced the front tires, struts and mounts, new rotors, brakes and I cant seem to figure it out. The front end is tight and the cv axle boot is still intact and I have never seen one go out without ripping the boot. If I lift the car up the front left tire hops a bit so thats the culprit but I cant seem to narrow it down anymore. I think its the cv axle but it seems weird considering the boot isn't torn.
View 4 RepliesI had a problem with my steering wheel shaking at various speeds. Eventually I found a bad inner tie rod and replaced it. The shaking is gone, but whenever I get over 70 mph there is still a very small vibration. I had all 4 wheels aligned after changing the tie rod. Tires are brand new, less than a week old. The mechanic checked my ball joints while doing the alignment and said they were good. Could my struts be causing the vibration? They need replaced, not sure if the previous owner ever replaced them and the car has 225,000 miles.
View 3 Replies