Celica :: 85 Toyota GTS Started Running Out - Low On Water
Apr 2, 2015
I have a 85 toyota celica gts 5 speed 22re the other day I was driving it and it started running out I cut it off as soon as it started let it cool down and noticed I was low on water so I put some more in and limped it home. When I got home I let it set over night. The next day I poured some more water in it instantly it poured it on the ground never cranked it or anything. It is pouring it out of the left side of the motor. I thought it was hg but I checked the oil no milky look to it I checked all around the water pump and the two main radiator hoses nothing. I can borrow it down between the oil filter and the front of the motor but just. Can't find the source.
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1991 Toyota Celica 2.2 liter standard water is boiling in upper radiator hose what could be the possible cause of this problem I have changed radiator and cap, water pump, radiator hoses and have flushed the system. could crossed hoses from engine to heater control valve and heater core cause this problem?The head has been checked and no exhaust gas was found in radiator fluid ...
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Toyota Celica 1993 has been in the shop for 7 weeks and now the shop says they have no idea how to fix the car. Car blows a fuse when the car is started. Replace fuse; try again and fuse blows.
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I have a 90 celica, and while I driving today, the engine started smoking. I pulled over and took a look. The smoke was coming from behind the smoke and air filter area. I let it sight for about 2 hours and drove it back home and it wasn't smoking. Both times, it was on the road for about 20 minutes. I got a buddy of mine to take a look and he said that it was caused from the coolant boiling(I didn't think coolant coils boil). And it rained for a week straight, and I haven't driven it since it started raining. Could that have anything to do with it?
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I was driving my 2000 celica gt and it started making an awful sound. It was clunking and started slipping. The rpm's held constant but the car was going slower. I had it towed home. I have driven it a few times and the noise is still present once the car was going down the road in third gear and the front wheels locked up and the car screeched to a halt. it can be put into gear and driven at slow speeds. I assume that the transmission has failed. If it is in fact the transmission there is a gt-s with a 6 speed at the local junk yard. From what i read the swap is direct bolt in. Is that true and does the shifter need to be changed?
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I have a 1989 toyota Celica ST with a 2.0 in it.
I have idle problems after the car has ran for about 1.5- 2 hours. It has a new cap and wires and plugs and a new intake on it and it still does it. I have it parked for winter right now because it cant get around in the ND winters so i'm just trying to get some ideas right now.
Also i pulled the cap off and there was oil in it.
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My 2001 Toyota Celica GT was put through a smog test and it was running rich on the idle only. It has been tagged a gross polluter and so i finally got a code reader to try to diagnose why. When i plugged in the code reader it kept stating no codes. It does not have a check engine light on and has not had a tune up for a while now. I am in real need of my car now more than ever.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Sienna xle that started running rough when the weather turned cold. When started, the car idles very high and will not shift properly until it was been running for around 5 minutes. After that it will run well for about 10-15 minutes and then begin to run rough or poorly. The problem is very noticeable at low speeds and when stopped. It never actually kills, but it feels like it is going to. At high speeds it is less noticeable but occasionally you will feel it jerk or chug like the transmission is slipping or a belt or something.
I took it to a mechanic who checked the codes and found that the ignition coils were supposedly bad. I say supposedly because they replace three of the ignition coils and the problem still persists. I then took it back to the mechanic who then told me it was the oxygen sensor. The o2 sensor was replaced and the problem is still there with no noticeable improvement. I again to it back to the mechanic who tells me that they scratching their heads.
I have done some looking around on the internet and have found some discussions that seem to have some promising leeds and actually last weeks car talk show had a caller who described a similar problem. The guys told him it could be a oxygen sensor but they thought a better possibility would be EGR valve or a vacuum leak. Not sure if this sienna has an EGR, but I plan to suggest looking into it to the mechanic. Also, I found some discussions talking about the idle control valve and the engine control module.
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I have a 1985 Toyota Celica Gt-s, and i have quite a bit of oil in the radiator. The car does not overheat, and I am wondering what exactly causes the oil to get in the radiator. I just purchased a full engine gasket set, and a timing kit. I am going to replace the headgasket, and the timing. I am not sure if the headgasket is the reason oil is in the radiator, but I am hoping so. Also there is no water in the oil, just oil in the radiator.
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I have a 1990 GTS with a transplanted 1996 S5HE 2.2 motor. This summer I started getting overheating issues and I believe my water pump is dying.
Here's the symptoms; car will run nice and cool on the freeway doing 70 with the tach turning at 3.5k. As soon as I get off the freeway and RPMs drop the coolant temp will spike almost into the red. Accelerating from the stop will drop the temp but it will hover near the high end of the middle till I get back on the freeway or RPM's go back up.
It does the same thing when climbing hills or when the engine is under load. It did it bad this summer when it was hot out and I was running the AC. Bad enough that it boiled over a couple times. The radiator is brand new and just based on the symptoms I'm thinking water pump.
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Ok, I just bought myself some problems in the form of a '93 Celica GTS. (5S-FE)
Well, alright, that's a little dramatic. it just overheats. but here's my issue. it's got a new water pump, new radiator, and is still overheating. The guy I bought from says it's in the block, cuased by an attempt to plug a radiator leak with stop leak. He said it just had a minor leak in the radiator, so he put stop leak in it, and after that it started overheating. he's replaced the thermostat, water pump, and radiator since then.
My first question is, could he (and I) be overlooking something? could there be a clog somewhere easier to access? and then if there isn't, how should I go about cleaning out the block? are there areas I should check? anything I should do to try to unclog it? my current plan is to put cooling system flush in (he has some) and drive it home (about 55min. drive) with the flush in it, then empty it and hope for the best.
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I've got an 1989 Celica St that as it warms up it pushes water out through the overflow bottle. The car seems to be cooling ok as long as I don't get stuck in traffic. My daily commute is approximately 40 miles and if I keep refilling the radiator the car stays relatively cool. However, if I do not stop and let the car cool off between commuting to and from work the car loses enough coolant that eventually it starts to overheat and I need to pull over and refill the radiator once again. I have replaced the radiator cooling fan already and am going to flush the radiator this afternoon. I am thinking that the head gasket might be leaking and causing my problems. What to try next b4 I tear the head off? BTW the motor is a 2.0 L 16 valve. Hoping I can fix this problem w/o a head gasket.
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I have an 89 Celica GT that idles at 2000 RPM when first started up and even when it's warm it is still at about 1500 RPM. How to lower that? I failed my emissions test because it put out too much CO and the idle speed was one of the suspected problems.
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I have a 1992 celica GT 2.2l A/T. I was on my way home today from college and my car started to overheat right before i made it home. It was steaming a bit and the temp gauge was tacked out. when i pulled into my apartment i noticed a light brown colored liquid in my parking spot, and alot of it.
I saw this same liquid at my college campus and assumed it was a coffee someone spilled near my car, but now i know it came from my car. I haven't had a chance to check my houses yet as i just got home and my cars still really hot. I know its not power steering fluid b/c that's been empty all week b/c my reservoir leaks. Why my car is overheating and what liquid is coming from it. Oh also the liquid seems to be coming from the right front portion of the car.
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2.2 liter celica would improper placement of thermostat jiggle valve cause water to boil in upper radiator hose and overheat engine and spill water from overflow.
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I have a well maintained '96 Celica 2.2 and for the first time in years it started acting up on the way home last night.
I got on the highway and was cruising at 65 and it started hesitating and popping and finally forced me to the side of the road. I was then able to start off again and reached about 60 all the way home but it was hesitating and not a smooth ride at all.
When I got to a red light at the off ramp, it died. I started it and it drove rough on local streets until I got home.
This morning I started it and it fired right up but then died immediately. Did that twice. Just tried again and it won't even start but just pops and makes noises like it's out of gas, even though 1/2 full.
Check Engine Light is on. I tried jumping E1 and TE1 but nothing happened.
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I got 91 celica gts recently started to tap when the motor is warm I've changed cap button wires plugs still getting this noise might be chatter but only when warm not there when cold.
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I am new to working on cars. SO i think my water pump went out on my 1991 celica gts, there is a large water leak where the bottom hose from the radiator connects to the what i presume is the water pump or thermostat, need to know if I am on the right track...
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I replaced my 7AFE engine in my Celica 1997 1.8 with another 7AFE engine. The replacement engine had a different wiring harness, so I kept my original wiring harness.
After the swap, I started the engine and it stopped by itself after about 30-60 seconds.
Now it wont start. I have fuel, but no spark. I have tried three different distributors.
I have tried to read the fault codes, with connecting TE1 and E1, but no engine light lights up in the dash.
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Car started idling funny and stalling. Finally wouldn't start. Changed crusty spark plugs, started up once, then stalled and wont start again. Checked for spark, no spark. Changed crust dist cap and rotor and ignition coil and still no spark. Checked ignitor activity and appears to be working.
What else is there? There's a little doofer next to the coil that looks like it has two wires come out of it, looks magnetic (has metal shavings on it, probably from old rotor)... Could the ignition switch be the problem? It cranks, but no spark.
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So I just replaced the timing belt, water pump, power steering pressure line and all associated seals and gaskets including the oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket. I fired the car up and everything appeared to be fine so I decided the next step was a nice little drive just to make sure all was well.
Everything checked out until I was a couple hundred feet from my driveway when I stopped to talk to a neighbor the oil pressure light started to flicker on and off, occasionally it stayed on for a second or two. when I accelerate the light goes away. I have not put a pressure gauge on it yet.
For example lets just say the pressure is good??? then what??? and the oil pressure switch is brand new. the oil pump passed the inspection listed in the manual and the only thing I did that it didn't tell me to was assemble the oil pump with some assembly lube after changing the shaft seal and housing gasket.
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