So I just drove my 85 to san francisco and back to Los Angles this weekend to visit my girlfriend and i had high oil pressure all the way until i blew my valve cover gasket.
So i fixed it finally today and it ran fine for a couple blocks and then my rpms shot up to about 3000 rpm and wont come down at idle speed and the car wants to keep going while in drive.
Its a 2.4l 22re EFI
My car is a 2001 honda accord v6. It sat for 3 winter months. When I go to turn it on in the morning, the car will rev while idling. Jumping between 1000 and 3000 rpms. Why this might be happening?
View 3 RepliesWhen I start my 2003 Escape 3.0, the rpm's shoot up to about 3000rpms. After a few seconds they drop to about 2000 and slowly creep back up to 3000. When I put in gear, I don't even have to step on the gas and my vehicle goes. It maintains between 1500-2000rpms as I'm driving. When I come to a red light or stop sign, it lurches like it wants to go even though I have my foot on the brakes. I've replaced the IAC valve, TPS, had it checked for vacuum leaks, PCV valve replaced. I'm at a loss as to what it could be.
View 3 RepliesTruck: Ranger
Year: 1990
Engine: 2.3 Lima
Trans: 5 Speed Manual
Miles: 83,445
Recently Replaced:Oil Pressure Switch
Oil Pan Gasket
Crank Position Sensor
Spark Plugs
Plug Wireset
Ignition Control Module
Driver Side Coilpack
After I got done with all of this crap on my Ranger, I noticed that it was driving great! But...today I was on my way to school and BAM! My engine idle started hitting (presumably because I do not have a tachometer) about 3000RPM and lowering down to about 2500RPM and from there, every time I am not in gear it decided to fluctuate between 2500RPM and 3000RPM. Crazy style too.
Now, I got to school, and getting closer to it at a stop light the truck basically died. It was almost at 100'ish RPM. I gave it gas, and BAM. I hear a continuous hissing noise from under my hood. Haven't diagnosed it fully yet because I just got home and its 12AM.
Now, every time I stop at a light or in traffic or whatever it may be, I have to give it gas every other second, like a small push on the pedal, to make sure the truck doesn't die. Also, every time I am out of gear and my RPM's are at an 'idle' state, I get continuous hissing from somewhere, I get no power loss or anything, just really weird idle RPM's and hissing when my foot is not on the gas basically. It is strange. I think It is some sort of Vacuum leak but I am not sure.
To get a better picture of the 'hissing' noise, it is the same hissing as you would hear when letting the air out of a tire. That is the best way I could describe it.
I have a 1987 Convertible Celica GT, with Manual Transmission. The car will not idle at lower RPM. I had someone look at it, and they have it where it will idle at 2000 RPM, but anything lower than that, and the engine will die when not giving it gas.
The engine accelerates great and runs great at any speed, but if you push in the clutch without giving it gas, it will die, unless the idle speed is cranked up like it is now. What this might be?
I just got a 87 celica for $500. Anyway it runs at 2000 rpm's for an idle, could a valve adjustment be a possible problem? Also where is the best place to find some performance parts for this thing? Would like cams, headers, pistons......?
View 6 RepliesCould a bad vsv be affecting my idle speed? I'm wanting to adjust idle as per the maintenance schedule and i don't know if i should wait until after i replace what appears to be a bad VSV. Also, where on the top part of the wiring harness i can connect an ohmmeter so it runs to the VSV so I don't have to get back in that tight area?
View 10 RepliesI have a 100% stock 2004 Celica GT ~125,000 miles. Over the last few months I have been getting a rough idle and stumble at low rpms. The other day the car would not restart after sitting for about 20 minutes. Only recently has it actually thrown a DTC. The error codes were for misfires (P0300, P0301,P0302,P0303, P0304). I don’t get a code every time but the problem seems to be more noticeable if the car has been ran for a while, sits for 20-30 minutes while in a store and then when I try to start it when I come out of the store is when the problem most often occurs. When it restarts it will stumble at low RPM and if I hit the gas it has little response and misses badly. I have never used a scanner until now. I am using a Autel MS509 scanner and I am not sure it is giving me the correct diagnostic numbers for the live data. I think the DTC are correct but the live data is questionable.
Here is what I have done so far.
- Cleaned IAC valve (completely removed and cleaned)
- Searched for vacuum leaks using carb cleaner
- Cleaned MAF sensor
- Replaced all 4 injectors
- Replaced upstream and downstream O2 sensors
- Replaced Coolant Temp Sensor
- Ensured cam tensioner is providing adequate pressure to the cam chain
- Tried 2 sets of new Iridium NGK plugs and a new set of Bosch Copper plugs
- Moved coil packs around
- New air filter
- New fuel filter
- SeaFoam through intake and gas tank. I have not mixed in the oil.
- Compression Test (1=190,2=190,3=160,4=178)
Things I have not done.
- Taken it to the stealership
- Fuel pressure test
- Valve Clearance
I am concerned about the compression test because according to the service manual it should be around 218. I was using a Harbor Freight compression tester and I am not 100% sure I had a good seal with the tester.
At the beginning December I put my brand new winter tires (general altimax arctics) on the factory steelies and put them on the car gearing up for the snow. Not to long after the install I notice that I was getting a very strong engine vibration starting at 3,000 rpms and it stopped around 3,100 rpms no matter what gear I was in. At first I though it maybe just the cold affecting the engine. Well...
Last week I put my summer rims and tires back on for the 1,600 mile trip to MO and back, and like magic, no more heavy vibrations. Smooth acceleration throughout the normal driving rpm range. I just changed the oil and tranny fluids Tuesday after we got back and with the warmer weather the car is running smooth as silk. Still an awesome car with awesome mileage and couldn't be happier.
My 94 gt doesn't have the idle speed adjustment screw like the manual says it should so how does one adjust the idle speed?
View 7 RepliesIm curious if this is normal or not. When I'm driving and I put my car into neutral to coast, the idle speed is at around 900rpm. When I come to a stop, the idle will drop to around 650rpm. Is this a design feature? I wish the rpm would drop more to conserve on gas while I'm coasting!
View 7 RepliesI noticed on 5 different occasions so far this year that my idle speed will increase to around 1100 rpms when sitting at idle for more than a few min. Last summer it did it while running a/c, and today it did it with cold weather. The rpms are usually at 550, what happens is the pcm will decide to increase idle speed for no reason at all. Start driving it, and the next time at idle it will stop doing it, a couple times it went down to 550rpms, then went back up to 1100rpms. I recently changed the spark plugs, the air filter is clean, and runs good. I have a code scanner, no pending codes. I have 53k miles. I wonder what could cause this?
View 6 RepliesI have a '99 GT with the 2200 motor. A couple of months ago, it started sputtering around 3000rpm. Over 3600 RPM, runs great. Per my dealer, both cats and o2 sensors were changed. $$$ Did not fix! Local garage found a extremely frayed wire at the crankshaft sensor. There were two EGR codes as well, but were ignored. They changed the wire and the car has ran great for a month. Now it is sputtering again. The garage checked and there are only the same two codes are for EGR issues (I did not write them down). Could it be the EGR? Does it kick in around this RPM?
View 3 RepliesHad a first-time issue with my car today. Background, 2010 II bought in June, just short of 15K miles, never had any kind of mechanical issue.
While en route to work this morning, I was about halfway into my 15 minute drive to work, when I noticed my engine was idling very high, I would guess 2500 rpms. It started doing it while I was driving around 35 MPH, then continued doing it while I stopped at a traffic light, and continued when I continued driving to a speed around 50 MPH. The high idle while stopped was not transferred to the wheels, so it was not a safety issue as it would be in other cars.
When I got back up to 50, curious to try something, I hit the ECO mode button and the car returned to normal. I took ECO back off and the car was still fine. I had no further problems.
I would point out that this morning was about the coldest temp that the car has experienced. Outside temp ranged from 7 to 10 degrees.
Let's say I'm going from zero to forty, my RPMs will hit over 3000, but when it shifts, the RPMS will drop down to 2000-ish really hard, making the car jerk. It's not a smooth drop, it's like a split second. Upon acceleration there is also a very rapid knocking sound. There's no lights on my instrument cluster.
This trouble all started after I had my alternator die, then having the car towed a few months back. Ever since then this problem has been getting worse. Wat this could be?
I have a 2001 accent with a 1.6 .... It won't rev over 3000rpm's. It does not have any codes being set. If I unplug the IAC it will rev up just like normal. I tried replacing the IAC, TPS, and swapped ECM and nothing has changed it. I tested continuity of the IAC circuit to ECM and it tests good. Tested ground circuit and it tests good. Have correct voltage at sensor. Not sure what else to look at.
View 21 RepliesSymptoms- won't rev over 3000-3500 rpm's, upon acceleration (especially uphill) seems to struggle and won't accelerate much at all, seems as if trans changes fine. BTW, throwing no codes at present.
What I have already tried...new air filter, new fuel filter, had cat. check (was told stopped up but when removed found it was not and truck did the same even with cat. off), o2 sensor (upstream) replaced, battery disconnected to reset computer.
After reset of computer, runs a little better but still not good. Seems to start if you accelerate to quickly or when truck reaches around 40-45 mph.
My oil pressure gauge jumps all over the place when I get over 3000 rpms. At lower rpms it is in the normal range and the engine sounds ok. How can I tell if this is the oil pump or the sending unit or the gauge? This is a 1980 CJ5 with a 151ci 4 cylinder.
View 2 RepliesI have a 01 b5.5 Passat. When I'm in tiptronic and I'm about to hit 3000 rpms, a really off noise goes off and it's like a grinding sound.... Like when your car doesn't want to go to the next gear!
View 1 RepliesLast night when accelerating from 40 to 60 mph I felt a "whoosh" and then the RMPs went to 3000 when I had my foot on the pedal. They dropped to 1200 if I let off. This morning the car would shift into reverse, but punching the accelerator did nothing. Other gears are fine. I rolled out of the drive, stopped at the mech and diagnostics showed only a bad speed sensor. I saw a post elesewhere that had a similar issue in 2006, same model Toyota Sienna 2000 xle. Mech pricing the transmission replacement. Could it just be malfunctioning speed sensor sending bad data to the ECM?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2012 Nissan Versa with a 1.6 Engine/CVT transmission. When going down a steep hill the RPMs rev up to at least 3000 or more...is this normal for a car to do this?
View 3 Replies