I might be getting a 78 celica gt 5-speed and with the stock 2.2 ... It doesn't really go very fast and I am trying to figure out what I want to do to this thing. so far I kinda like the idea of shoving a 350 under the hood but i kinda wanna stick with putting a toyota motor in it.
View 2 Replies1992 Celica with about 130k miles.
The brake pedal pulsates at a rate directly proportional to how fast the car is going. How violent the pulsing is depends on how hard you apply the pedal but even at less than 5mph and even when barely applying the brake you can feel it in the pedal.
I've had this before on other vehicles and the fix was swapping rotors. Rotors are cheap enough for it so I changed the front and then the rear with no real change from either swap. As part of the swap I wire brushed the face of the hubs to make sure there wasn't rust buildup on them. Replaced a wheel bearing on the passenger front as it had some play in it. Swapped tie rod ends as they had some play. Bled brakes enough to refresh the fluid.
The changes have made it drive a little better (at least I like to think they did) but the pedal is almost completely unchanged.
I think that to feel it in the pedal it has to be an irregularity in the rotor or something else causing the piston in the caliper to move.
Got my IS 350 F Sport on 6/30 and I love it... but I found my first fault in the car... and I hope it can be fixed or I am wrong... The wipers just aren't that fast.... and their are very few speeds...
The FAST wipers setting (all the way down, clicking twice) doesn't hold up well against heavy ran...this setting is like Medium-High on my old 2013 Infiniti... But the Infiniti almost had a "VERY HIGH" setting and it was great for down pours... this "high" on the lexus just isn't that good... and quiet frankly IS NOT SAFE.
Also, pushing it down once for the intermediate setting where you can twist for 3 different speeds just isn't enough as well...
Video : [URL] .....
I just swapped the 1.8 7a-fe for a fresher 1.8 7a-fe. Everything is properly assembled, but when I start it up it idles low and doesn't run smoothly. As if it weren't timed correctly... My buddy claims it is though, and he ran it with a timing light.
Another issue is black exhaust, I'm not sure if they bare any relation but I know black exhaust cannot be good..
Fan works and the ad button lights up but my rpms don't go up and the air doesn't get cold.
View 3 RepliesSo i'm lowered on BC racing coilovers. never had a problem like this before. my tires went bald so i got new tires. after that when i drive on the freeway i can start feeling like my car is wiggling side to side. i thought it was cuz of my alignment or my wheels are off balanced so i did that today. i went to firestone got an alignment. then went back to where i purchased my tires (costco) and got my wheels balanced. I still feel my car "wiggling" sometimes on the freeway. it didnt wiggle my wheel but i just feel that my car is wiggling.
plus my frame has no damage. im lowered but not that low. never scraped the frame (only bumper) and never damaged the frame.
I have a celica 1.8 st202 that doesn't start. The efi relay and fuse are ok. I tested these and even replaced the relay with another one.
-When I jumper the pins in the diagnose box B+ and FP the engine starts.
-When I remove it the engine won't start.
-When I remove the jumper the fuel pump doesn't get any power.
About 2 months ago i was driving and heard a clicking noise that would increase the faster i drove, i 1st thought it was something in the tire. after checking my right front tire and saw nothing was there for some reason i figured it was the brake.....so my personal mechanic the next day took off the wheel i told me i had to replace the braking kit because one of the pins was rubbing on the rotor, in the mean time he pulled it to try to realign it into place.....after he did that i realized the steering wheel shuddering when braking at highway speeds....figuring since i needed the braking kit that when replaced, this new problem would b solved.....braking kit replaced problem still there....
View 11 RepliesMy air conditioner is giving me problems. For some reason, when I drive around town taking short trips, my AC refuses to cool the car down. I've also noticed the "outside temperature" gauge displayed in the cluster shows the temperature about 20 degrees hotter than it actually is.
I noticed today while driving on the highway, once I hit 45mph or so, the cool air really started to come through. I've looked at it with a non-Toyota tech after driving around for about an hour, and when we're sitting and idling the low pressure pipe doesn't seem to get cool. After my ride today, I popped the hood when I stopped to check, and it was cool to touch, but not cold as I've felt on other cars.
We also checked the pressure within the system, and it's right on the money (so he says). What could be causing this? I know my AC has never really been as fast as other cars given I keep it in eco mode, but it literally blows warm air until I start going an an accelerated speed.
Is there any way the front blower can be wired to run or spin FASTER? The rear blower in my 1997 spins fast enough but the front could use a 5th speed. I have interchanged blowers and Resistors from rear to front, but no change, both resistors and blowers are identical. I remember one time a residential a/c tech showed me how to rewire the air handler blower in my apt. to make it run faster and the result was amazing, though he did explain the life of the blower would be shortened, I never had any problem. Does the same principle apply to a 12V automotive blower?
View 14 RepliesSo i just recently purchased my 2012 Toyota Camry SE V6 about a month ago. At first everything is great which it STILL is but lately I've discovered that I'm hearing a weird & SERIOUSLY IRRITATING noise/sound/rattle! Every time I drive between 10mph-40mph and it gets rapidly fast as I increase speed.. thats the RATTLE noise. I did my research and it said it can be a loose bolt or a loose heat shield underneath but I'd like some advice from Toyota Nation. Also when i make a slight turn I hear a weird clunking or some weird unexplainable noise. All in all this car is awesome .. smooth/FAST/comfy seats for me/agile/great on gas compared to my 2011 Camry 4 cylinder I had ..
View 4 RepliesThis happens to me again on a very hot day. The symptom is: all of sudden, the brake pedal becomes stiff. I mean I can only depress down the pedal just a little bit. Then when I want to accelerate, the engine works very hard and speed picks up very slowly. RPM will shoot to 3000. When I remove my foot from the gas pedal, the speed drops very fast. The car slows down much sooner than usual. So my feeling is the brake is dragging the car. The dealer cannot duplicate the problem during short test drive. So what can be wrong? The brake booster was replaced a few months ago. Is it possible it provides too much boost?
View 17 RepliesI have removed the 12mm bolt and disconnected the speed sensor. The problem is that the speed sensor will not come out of the transmission. Is there a pin or something else that needs to be done to remove this speed sensor?
View 3 RepliesCould a bad vsv be affecting my idle speed? I'm wanting to adjust idle as per the maintenance schedule and i don't know if i should wait until after i replace what appears to be a bad VSV. Also, where on the top part of the wiring harness i can connect an ohmmeter so it runs to the VSV so I don't have to get back in that tight area?
View 10 RepliesCarburetor: Autolite 4100
Fast Idle Speed: 1250 RPM
Curb Idle Speed: 600 RPM (At normal operating temperature)
When I cold start my truck, the fast idle speed holds the throttle at 1500 RPM. I will let it idle about 30 seconds or so, and then I will tap the gas to bring the idle down.
When I do this, the idle will immediately drop all the way down, and too low for a cold engine. The engine won't stall, but it will hover just below 500 RPM, which is a bit too low to idle smoothly.
But when the engine is at operating temperature, the idle speed is 600 RPM and the engine will happily idle smoothly.
Shouldn't there be an "in between" speed? When I tap the gas pedal at 1500 RPM to bring the idle down some, shouldn't the speed drop down a little lower, like 1000 RPM since the engine is still a bit cold?
If so, what do I need to adjust? The Autolite 4100 works PERFECTLY otherwise.
I have a 1994 celica GT, 2.2 with a 5 speed. I thought I either had bad tire noise, or maybe a wheel bearing noise, I put the car up on jack stands, started the car and put it in gear, and the noise I have is a loud growling sound, which gets worse the faster the wheel spins. I took a 2x4 and stopped the passenger side tire (drive wheel) so the driver's side would spin, the noise went away. From what I can tell, or am guessing, the noise is coming from the trans. Could this be a bearing in the trans case? Of course I can't find an exploded view of the trans!
View 3 RepliesI got a Toyota Celica 2001 recently from my dad and when I put the throttle all the way to the grown it barley speeds up as if it has some kind of throttle limiter so I can't speed everything else is fine it's a manual I just can't give it gas if I want to speed up really fast or race whatever the case is. How to remove the limiter or whatever else it is ?
View 2 RepliesMy 94 gt doesn't have the idle speed adjustment screw like the manual says it should so how does one adjust the idle speed?
View 7 Replies1994 celica GT 2.2L
Just happened last night, i was driving on the highway when i noticed my temp needle was reading about a 1/4 of an inch higher than normal. That's never happened before. It's always been rock steady right in the middle. I was doing about 80 miles an hour. i slowed down to about 65 and the needle went back to the middle. I sped up to 70 and the needle went back up again. So i slowed down again and it went back down.
Tonight i was on the highway again, but due to the freezing rain and hail, i was doing between 40 and 60. Tonight the Gauge never moved from the middle. It was steady all the way until i got on the off ramp at the light, Then it went up and came back down by itself. I didn't hear the fans come on. I went to a local parking lot to do some tests. I parked the car (gauge was in the middle), and reved the engine to raise the temperature. It went up and then came down. Fans did not come on. Strange. I them went back to my house. parked the car, put the hood up and tried to make the fans some on. Here's where it gets interesting...
while in my drive way, the needle goes up, both fans come on high speed, needle drops. I then tried to do it again. Reved the engine for a second, i hear both fans come on high speed, but the needle is in the middle. It did the same thing again with the needle in middle again.
There are no external leaks. engine oil is full. Both fans work, but on high. There is no debris covering the radiator. I replaced the thermostat around april 2011,( it was not a genuine toyota part and didn't have jiggle valve. is that ok? it's been fine all this time.) Timing belt and water pump have not been replaced (so i've been told).
Tomorrow i will check the coolant in the radiator, ignition timing, and check the radiator cap. What are the odds of it being the cooling fan switch or a relay? i only ask because it hasn't come on low speed since this happened. Will warm car up in drive way and see tomorrow.
So I just drove my 85 to san francisco and back to Los Angles this weekend to visit my girlfriend and i had high oil pressure all the way until i blew my valve cover gasket.
So i fixed it finally today and it ran fine for a couple blocks and then my rpms shot up to about 3000 rpm and wont come down at idle speed and the car wants to keep going while in drive.
Its a 2.4l 22re EFI
So I bought a Celica a while back and the fuse box is uncovered meaning the cover that tells you which fuse is for what is gone. I can't find the cover saying which fuse is what online anywhere. If someone has a '92 Celica and can take a picture of it, that would save the day for me. It's a 1992 Celica GT 5 speed, 2.2L. Note that there are two fuses missing in the picture. I'm working on it right now, that's why.
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