Celica :: 5SFE - Car Not Starting After Replacing Head Gasket


Dec 29, 2013

So I've replaced my head gasket on my 5SFE. But after putting my car back together, my car didn't want start. This is how it sounds like (click on the video to watch it).

So I suspected that my timing was off, so I took off the valve cover to check the timing marks on the camshafts. So the two timing punches lined up like so (I only took picture of one of them)

Though I'm not too sure what the two dots mean on the exhaust camshaft since there are not two similar dots on the intake camshaft.

So I'll assume that I have my camshafts lined up properly But how do I know that it is in time with the pistons?

Could it be the distributor? I am not too sure if I installed it correctly, but I did follow instructions in the Chilton manual.

On the other end, there were two vacuum lines that I'm not sure if I installed correctly. I'm positive that the left two pipes are correct; however, I'm not too sure about the two on the right. This is mounted on the cylinder head.

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Could it be the line from manifold vacuum to brake master cylinder ie servo amplifier? Or something else?Should I worry? The car seems to get about 15 mpg, used to get 18 mpg, and the check engine MIL is on.

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A 2007 Toyota Camry 2.4 was brought into the shop I work at smoking badly and running terrible. The car had been run hot because the radiator was busted and it blew the head gasket. So I pulled the head and sent if off to the machine shop to have it checked. They said it was badly warped across three cylinder and they resurfaced it.

Now I have everything re assembled, but it simply will not start. All the timing marks on the timing chain line up where they should be. All four coils are firing. Injectors wires pulse noid lights. A few times it has hit and sputtered like it was trying to start but never successfully does.

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This does not happen initially when I turn the car on from a cold start. I turn it on leave it at idle for a while and even rev it up and hold it high. It starts to leak after about a 2 mile drive and the car is at running temperature. I removed the hose on the valve cover when the car was at idle and a good amount if air blows out when at idle now when I rev the car up the air blowing out drops some.

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Shut the car off cleaned up my throttle body a bit the went to start the car again it it would just crank and crank

I just put in a new fuel pump, so that cant be it, I have not checked for spark yet ( car is stuck at work )

I heard that the ignition coil likes to fail on these would that be causing this problem?

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Once again my Celica is having a similar issue. Originally over 6 months ago i had an issue with my MAP Sensor which was causing extreme hesitation issues and the car was basically not safe to drive in traffic.

The issue that is now occurring is that i can start my car fine and drive around on flat normal roads with no issues but ive noticed once i go up a steep or decent hill/driveway the car will start to bog down around 1500-2100 RPM.

Once it starts to play up it continues to do so even on flat roads.

Have Checked:
- MAP Sensor - OK
- Distributor - OK
- Leads - Old but still ok, plan to replace later.
- Spark Plugs - Ok
- Spark Plug Wells - They had oil in them few weeks ago, cleaned out and hasent returned.
- Need to replace Valve cover gasket to fix this i believe.
- Fuel is ok.

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My 92 Celica 5SFE 2.2L auto sputters at half throttle. But if I release gas pedal, performance normalizes. I already changed spark plugs cables, ignition coil fuel filter, spark plugs, cleaned injectors, replaced timing belt, engine starts right up and idles a bit high, around 1300 RPM when cold in Park, then when warm 800 RPM in drive. I don't know if it's an electrical issue or a vacuum related issue, spark plugs get carbon fouled after driving like this. I'm tired of having all the newer cars pass me by and my car "running" on 3 pistons.

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1-Was it proper for the shop to do the first repair without checking for a potential head gasket leak?

2-Is there some type of testing that could have been done by the repair shop to check for coolant leaks into the engine oil? 3-Would I have saved money (labor) by having this taken care of at the time of the initial repair?

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I add a block sealer and now the car is working fine (Block Seal, Head Gasket Repair, Bar's Leaks brand).

I would like to replace the head gasket in my V6, but I was told that I need to the surface finish to flat the head and in the lower part too (block), is this correct?
I know that this must be done in the upper part (head) but never heard that this must be done also in the lower part (block).

I have a 2007 accord V6 Engine 4 door sedan SE.

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