Celica :: 2200 Motor Sputtering At Around 3000 RPM - Two EGR Codes
Jun 25, 2014
I have a '99 GT with the 2200 motor. A couple of months ago, it started sputtering around 3000rpm. Over 3600 RPM, runs great. Per my dealer, both cats and o2 sensors were changed. $$$ Did not fix! Local garage found a extremely frayed wire at the crankshaft sensor. There were two EGR codes as well, but were ignored. They changed the wire and the car has ran great for a month. Now it is sputtering again. The garage checked and there are only the same two codes are for EGR issues (I did not write them down). Could it be the EGR? Does it kick in around this RPM?
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So I've had a problem with my celica. I've changed the vsv and the vacuum switching air control valve (Vsacv) ... I think the Vsacv went out already. New timing belt.. Engine is timed 10btdc. Cleaned intake and checked all vacuum lines
So the problem is that my Car idles at 2200 and will not drop unless I adjust the dist. Then the car bogs out. Put a new tps on last year which fixed the crazy idling but didn't fix the high idle... And it only drives good when the idle is that high....
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So I just drove my 85 to san francisco and back to Los Angles this weekend to visit my girlfriend and i had high oil pressure all the way until i blew my valve cover gasket.
So i fixed it finally today and it ran fine for a couple blocks and then my rpms shot up to about 3000 rpm and wont come down at idle speed and the car wants to keep going while in drive.
Its a 2.4l 22re EFI
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I have a 92 Celica ST 1.6L 5 speed with 175,000 miles on it. When should I consider getting the timing belt changed?
Also, several months ago the engine started acting up while I was on a long road trip, suddenly anytime I tried to accelerate the engine started sputtering / acting like is misfiring.. It got progressively worse during the trip, so I pulled over and to my surprise there was a significant amount of oil in one of the spark plug 'wells'. After soaking the oil up with a rag and cleaning the spark plug cable/connector the problem has only occurred one time since, and not nearly as much oil was present. It sound like I just need new spark plug cables.
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I have a problem that has being going on with my 2000 toyota celica gt has been sputtering/jerking when going at a constant speed of about 60 mph. The problem is interment. I have changed everything from cam sensor when it came up on the scanner. Also changed the fuel filter and fuel pump. I changed the spark plugs. No luck the problem went away for about 2 weeks when I changed the fuel pump and filter but it came back. I got it scanned and the only code that comes up is P0420 which is a catalytic converter code. I have no clue where to go from here.
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I just purchased a 2001 Jetta Wolfsburg with the 1.8T, 5 speed, and 169,000 miles. I need to figure out the engine hiccups. The check engine light is on. The car seems to hesitate between 2000-3000 rpm when the motor is lugged (pulling a hill, passing, etc).
I had the codes pulled at Autozone and came up with the following.
P0172 (Bank 1 System Too Rich)
P0300 (Random Multiple Misfire)
P0302 (Cylinder 2 Misfire)
P0420 (Catalyst System Below)
P0455 (Evaporator Emission)
P0411 (Secondary Air Injector Incorrect)
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I have had the Santa Fe back and forth to the garage no power. We where driving it and all a sudden dropped power can't rev motor over 3000 rpm. Garage said they fixed it with dry gas and more gasoline b/c it was "low" between 1/4 and empty?
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Driving home car started sputtering like crazy. vag com'd it and this is what i got from the scan!
Friday,06,April,2012,16:16:02:36785
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.2 (x64)
Data version: 20120126
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chassis Type: 3C0
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 15 16 17 19 1C 25 42 44 46 52 53 56 62 72
[Code] ....
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Recently bought a `01 Accent 5 speed.. First question . How do I tell if its the 1.5 or 1.6 ? That will really point me in a good start. Ha... Ok.. Check engine light is on and I found a paper in the glove box with some of the codes wrong with it.. The one I focused on was telling me the fuel system was to lean . blah blah blah... Dont remember the exact code as I felt that my research was good and I replaced the MAF sensor... Didnt clear the code...
Also it was sputtering quite a bit in all gears mainly at low rpms. I did change the fuel filter , checked plugs and wires etc.. Now I replaced the MAF sensor and it has not solved the problem.. Took it to have it rescanned and have been given codes p1127 and p0136 .. both seem to relate to the Bank 1 sensor 2 O2 sensor. question is I have saw the "upstream" sensor located right below the exhaust manifold but did not see a second sensor?
From what I have gathered sensor 1 does the most work, so I`m curious if these 2 sensors are interchangeable? Could I buy the downstream sensor and if that does not solve my problem , take it out on try it in the upstream sensor? Also do you really feel as though just changing that sensor will "cure" my sputtering issue? the car only has 88k on it and seems to be in good shape otherwise.. I really need this check engine light problem fixed so I can get inspection..
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I have had a wet weather issue twice, once last fall and once this spring. Both times were very wet and damp conditions causing a sputtering and chugging and dying at lights, both times no codes and after drying out in brother's shop it went away. Now this weekend up at the cabin it reappeared, again very wet conditions. Replaced the MAF...no change. Sputtered and chugged my way home with it killing at most stop signs/lights. Finally got home and couldn't even back the TT up the driveway, it would kill. Finally threw numerous codes (misfire in cylinders 1 and 9, and misfire in first 1000 revolutions). I'm thinking COPs as the plugs are not that old and the little research I have had time to do suggests this also. If it is COPs, I have heard there are some to avoid and some that are recommended?
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2004 Santa Fe 2.7L V6 2WD ... Car was running fine, filled it with gas, and upon starting, heard a backfire into the intake manifold. It coded for a Cylinder 3 misfire so I had plugs and wires changed.
Now...The car starts, idles rough, accelerates sluggishly, and running rough any time it was around 2000 RPM. After I changed the plugs, it started bucking a little and stalls when I take off in the morning.
Coded and it's reading 7 codes, but some are duplicates:
-P0274 Cylinder 5 Injector Control High
-P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire
-P0102 MAF or VAF A Circuit Low Input
-P0050 H02S Bank 2 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
-P0030 HO2S Bank 1 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
-P0274 Cylinder 5 Injector Control High (Shows Twice)
-P0102 MAF or VAF A Circuit Low Input (Shows Twice)
After having a backfire and then cylinder misfire...replacing the plugs and wires.
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I have an '05 5.4L 3V and I was way to trusting in how it was running. BTW, I change the oil every 3 to 5 and have only driven highway miles, albeit a lot of them...155k! I bought it with 40k on it but was not aware of the plug change issue until I heard about it off-hand. I let the plug change go cuz it was running so well. Bad move.
Anyways, a few weeks ago it began to lose power and I suspected that the PCM was retarding the timing for some reason. Before I could get to the shop, the thing went nuts on me at 75mph. Started shaking and sputtering and throwing cel codes. I shut it down and after 5 minutes re-started. It seemed fine and actually was running a bit better. Took it in and the code was the 0302. #2 cyl misfire.
They also said the compression was very low on that cylinder and slightly low on 1,3 and 7 as well. I had them change the plugs and the #2 COP even though they said I needed a new engine and then I picked it up. Now the engine barely runs at all. It shakes violently, where to go from here. What should I do now? New engine?
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My V8 is "sputtering" between 1000 - 2000 RPMs. Not only can you feel it, but you can see the tachometer bounce up and down as well. No problems accelerating or putting the engine under load - it's only between that RPM range where there seems to be hesitation. The car is not giving any fault codes, and I just recently had all plugs and coils changed. (The car ran great for 2000 miles following the plug and coil change.) It started on a road trip, and I took it to the local dealer. They thought it was bad gas. (I've since run several tank fulls through it...)
My suspicion is a mass air flow meter beginning to go, but until it triggers a fault, I can't say for sure. The dealer wants to check the MAFs values and to do a fuel tank pressure test to see if it's the fuel pump. I do have the Real Driver warranty, but they will not cover investigative costs. I'm not too excited about throwing money to test a bunch of different things.
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I bought an 89 celica gt back in december of last 2010. and my motor mounts recently went out on me and i was wonder how difficult it would be and exactly how many motor mounts does my car have? I am fairly new to car repair.
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I've had this strange knocking noise ever since may coming from my motor. I thought, it might go away if i push the car a little. But it's been 6 months, and the thing is still going hard. What I'm experiencing is kind of a knocking noise, something akin to marbles being shaken up in some kind of jar, and it is only at partial throttle. Starts at 2000 rpms and goes all the way until redline. What it could be? Engine sounds perfectly fine at idle, power is still there. MPG's are the same... I've also read a couple threads that indicate that it could be my intake manifold, I am really not that good with cars, shameful but i admit.
Btw while i was browsing found a repair manual on the net [URL] ....
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I got 91 celica gts recently started to tap when the motor is warm I've changed cap button wires plugs still getting this noise might be chatter but only when warm not there when cold.
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I have had my 91 ST for about 6 years. Bought it with 55k miles on it and the motor blew up on me at 165k. I had the motor replaced and when I got it back one of the headlights was out (low beams). I replaced that and got nothing, replaced the other one and still nothing. Even tried swapping bulbs around and no luck. Checked fuses and all look fine.
Talking with my mechanic who did the engine work about this and he started thinking it might be the dimmer switch. I ended up getting one and replaced it, moving one wire at a time off the old one to the wiring connector. Got done and nothing still. Now my Hi-beam indicator doesn't come on either. He is looking at this again and thinks the switch might be bad but can't confirm the wiring either. The diagram he has from work shows all the wires being different colors from any of the wires in the connector, even from other pieces.
Looking for any diagram that would tell us what wire pins from the dimmer switch and other parts of the combination switch go into the connector block under the steering column.
I really need this car back soon. Having to drive my Silverado 1500 crew cab to work and that is a 90 mile round trip every day. Want my 35+mpg Celica back.
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I have a 2008 MK4 2.0 with only 53,000kms. At 40,000Kms I put new OEM spark plugs.
Just recently, every morning when I start the engine is sputtering and rough running. The engines want to die but I give a little gas, and run rough like it is only firing on two or three cylinders.
When it gets to the normal operating coolant temperature it runs without any problem and I can use the AC. Its only give me this problem on the first start of the day.
Does not have any MIL light on the instrument panel. I scan it with VCDS-Lite and do not found any fault codes. The only thing that's come to my mind is to change the Green Coolant Sensor.
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Where is this located on an '87 Celica GT with the 3SFE? I'm having nothing but problems with the headlights and illumination. Schematics show all these wires going through the retractor relay. It shows in my book that it's supposed to be located in some ridiculous location behind the stereo. I've looked on both sides with a flashlight and see a very large black box that looks like the ECU and not the retractor relay... I see some exploded views of it located under the hood on other websites. I still have yet to spot where it's located. There's about 200 different fuse/relay panels on this car. I would like to fix my lights but I can't with the terrible information in my book and lack of it on the web.
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Its a 1991 Toyota celica with the 1.6 and 5 speed trans. the motor on cold or hot start up shakes really bad and has a lot of valve chatter. Along with that, the motor does not want to rev at all, almost like you are not even touching the gas, but you have it to the floor. A little back ground on the car is, the car sat for 6 months and i bought it from a friend to drive back and forth to work to keep miles of my supra. He said that the CAT was plugged so i replaced it. I have replaced the coil pack, distro cap, spark plug wires, spark plugs, rotor button, catalytic converter, air intake, and all the air tubes that looked like they were cracking. Now I can start the car, and it does the same thing. I thought it may be out of time, just because that is sort of what its acting like. I have had the motor rev up 3 times since i have had the car. But everytime I do it back fires and DIES, the car will not start til after the car cools down.
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I have a 1989 celica gts. I can hear the motor but my sunroof wont move..it wont open so I dont know how to get in and see what the problem is. Do I start by taking out the headliner?
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