I get significant vibrations when stopped at a signal or stop sign. I don't get them in park or neutral. I ran Seafoam through the car once and it went away for about a day and then came back.
Now the catch. Had several shops check the motor mounts. All said they were fine. Could it still be the motor mounts?
Have an 05 Auto GT which will vibrate when at a signal. If I shift into N it'll go away instantly. Had my motor mounts checked multiple times with multiple mechanics and they're fine. ATF is also clean and trans shifts smoothly.
I did run seafoam through it and it was fine for about a day, then started vibrating again.
Engine vibration? Its pretty significant and is always present doesn't matter if your in park or driving. What to check...
View 5 RepliesWhat could possibly be wrong with my new 2012 Elentra GLS. When i stop at red lights or at stop signs the car starts to shake a bit. The vibrations can be felt in the cabin specially around the dash board area. I wouldn't have noticed it if it was same on all stops, however, it seems intermittent. The car would be dead quite and motion less on one red light while on the other I can clearly feel the vibrations. I have taken it up with the dealership and mechanics there are clueless about it. One reason given was that it could be the inline 4 engine causing that vibration, or, a car system kicking in e.g. air con. that would cause stress on the engine.. i frankly thought it could be caused due to clutch not engaging properly..
View 60 RepliesNoticed seat vibrations when fully stopped? My 2013 has a sweet spot where the needle hits *just barely* under 750rpm when stopped at a light or something, where it doesn't vibrate at all. Anything even a smidgen over or under that and the seats and sometimes even the steering wheel vibrate. It's pretty random. One set of lights and I'm vibrating, the next set of lights not far down the road and no vibrations.
Also when I'm idling or stopped and I want to roll a window up or down, the whole car will shake, RPMs will dip a bit too.
I have a 1992 toyota celica st204 i got my dignosis and it come up with 12rpm signal cranking just wondering what it is and if it will cause my car to lose a bit of power .
View 1 RepliesI have an 87 ST. Recently the turn signal fuse keeps blowing out. This only happens when I use the right turn signal. It will cycle about 5 or 6 times then the fuse blows out. Hazards are fine, left turn signal is fine, all bulbs, contacts, and wires are fine. I'm guessing it could be either the turn signal switch itself, or the relay.
View 1 Repliesmy 2006 f150 shutters or vibrates when it downshifts from overdrive
View 1 RepliesI've got this 05 F250 5.4 liter V-8 w/ 118K miles on it. I've noticed a significant reduction in power after hooking up my 24' enclosed car hauler to move some furniture to a new house. I mean this has turned into a real dog.
It has a new serpentine belt, a new fuel filter in last 4 months, new air filter, recently started using Lucas Upper Cylinder lube w/ injector cleaner.
It does have a cracked R exhaust manifold which is being replaced in two weeks but it's not too loud at start up.
I mentioned this loss of power while have the belt replaced this morning and he thought without looking at it, it could be a failed camshaft sensor.
I have a 2005 C-280 4Matic wagon that I purchased used a year ago. In the last few days I've noticed a vibration and low frequency growl when I turn into a parking spot, pull out of said spot while turning the wheel, doing a K turn etc. It's the kind of sound you hear on 4 wheel drive cars when the wheel is at it's maximum revolution during a turn.
I can't tell if this has always been happening and I am just noticing it now, or if something happened!
After fixing a misfire on cylinder 4 (bad plug) I find two other problems on a 2005 Camry I bought recently. It has 88k miles (bought at 85k) has new plugs, air filter, and oil changed recently.
When I start the car in the morning a puff of blueish smoke comes out and doesn't come back until it gets started again after getting cold. Has a strange chemical smell. Also when it starts it shoots up to 2k RPMs and slowly goes down to a notch below 1k after a minute or two.
The other thing is that when cruising at around 40MPH and just holding that speed the car will start to vibrate intermittently. Not just the steering wheel or anything, it's felt throughout the car. I also notice that the RPMs fluctuate slightly, just a notch up and down as the vibrations come and go. If I let go of the gas it stops, if I accelerate, it stops.
I have a rough chatter noise coming from the rear end. It happens when starting off up till about 25mph. It rattles the cab a little and sounds real rough. It also happens when turning up hill, causes lots of vibrations in the cab. Some have mentioned it could be the rear differential needing a friction modifier or the u-joints needs some special lube? Its an 05 F150 with 62K miles.
View 3 RepliesMy cooling fan just stoped working the other day (not sure why) i replaced the fuses and relays they are all good. Now when i unhook it from the radiator fan switch it turns on but plug it back in and well it shuts off, i put a new switch to see if it will work but it started running real rough and hard to start so i put the old one back on and nothing changed. I read the book and checked everything but still nothing and why my engine light came on and it started running rough.
its a 91 celica 1.6 (4AFE)
For some reason it just stopped - did I do some top secret code?
View 7 RepliesMy engine is overheating, plenty of coolant but fan stopped working. Not sure whether to check fuse first. Dont actually know which fuse box to look in.
View 4 RepliesExperienced problems with their right taillight, both brake and turn signal light stopped working. This occurs intermittently. I have replaced my rear license plate lights with error free leds .
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 t-reg, purchased used about 4 months ago. I love VW but have doubts about this purchase from the numerous problems/issues (Tire pressure & flat tire sensor, unable to turn off headlights, etc). This new issue has me worried the most:
While stopped at a light, the car began to shake (almost like it was sputtering at a low RPM), and immediately after, a warning light came on. It flashed at first, then went solid. I don't recall what the warning light stood for (and I don't have the manual with me), but it looks like a faucet (best way I can describe it), it's yellow, on the left side of the instrument panel.
I drove it today because I have to, but only 2 miles. Can I get a way with doing this for the next couple of days? I don't have time to take it in this week.
My left front turn signal stopped working. Rear turn and mirror light both work normally. Checked the socket and it is clean. Switched bulbs with right side to confirm. This one is driving me crazy and I don't want to spend a fortune at the stealer to fix it.
View 5 RepliesI now have a 2002 Camry and the left rear turn signal has stopped working. When I put the signal on, it flashes about twice as fast inside and in the front, but nothing in the back. I replaced the bulb but it still didn't work. I'm going to switch the bulb here with the right one and see if it's still good just to be sure. Anyway, the rear left flasher doesn't work either. I've had turn signals be fuse related before but not when it's just one signal that's not working. Live in the city and driving without it is no good.
View 5 RepliesThis passenger side rear turn signal stopped working two weeks ago after a period of intermittent operation. All other lights work. I replaced the bulb and fuses. I am not an expert about auto electrical. The relay box is under the hood on the driver side. There is another fuse box under the driver side dash left of the steering column. Auto parts stores want to sell me a "flasher" that, well, I can't figure out where it goes. The "TNS relay" in the relay box is smaller than the flasher the parts stores are selling me. My little owner manual is not useful. Any theories about what is wrong? Wiring? Relay? Where does that flasher go? Somewhere under the dash?
View 2 RepliesDriving home the other day my right turn signal stopped working. Checked all lights when I got home and the front signal had a constant but low illumination and all the other lights were mostly out as well, very little was working actually.
Pulled the bumper and head lamp tonight. The plastic connector on the low beam was melted and the wires were burnt. The problem was the two brown wires that are sort of routed together. Third wire (grey or another shade of brown depending on headlight manufacturer) was OK.
Headlights are aftermarket, Volx Tuning, < 1 yr old. The rest of the harness inside the assembly looks good- certainly don't see any opportunities for a short.
I replaced the connector and bad section of wire and plugged it back in for a test. All lights were then 100% operational. I removed the assembly to find that the same lamp was smoking again. (I sort of expected this, but had to try.)
Clearly I've got a short somewhere but where do I start? The part of the vehicle's wiring harness that is visible behind the assembly is in good condition. The lamp itself (H7 I believe?) appears OK as well, I don't guess I get so so lucky as to hear those can develop an internal short in the base or something?