I have an 04 celica gt with around 168 k miles on it. Recently I have noticed a distinct metal on metal rattling noise whenever I accelerate at low speeds. It seems to be my exhaust as when I rev it up in park it makes the noise. But it doesn't ever make the noise when I'm on the expressway or cruising at back roads speeds. When I got under and looked at my exhaust everything looked normal?
View 3 RepliesCar shakes real bad when it turns over and then at different speeds. 25-30 it'll shake more, along with 45-50 and around 70 mph.
Mechanic friend says motor mounts which would make since cause the one thats visible has cracks in the rubber.
But the shop my father takes the car into says it needs a new drive shaft.
I have a 2007 RX350 with about 243,000kms on it. I recently purchased this car and everything is great on it except one thing. As of late, I've begun to take notice that when I accelerate from a stand still (for example after stopping at a light/stop sign), a loud rattling/grinding starts and then as I pick up speed and change gears, it fades away. The sound is more rattling than grinding. As if there is a metal bowl with some smalls stones in it and someone is just shaking that. There is also another sub issue that I'm having. There seems to be a clicking noise every time I apply the brakes or even accelerate. The same clicking noise reoccurs every time I put the gear into drive from neutral. However, when I do that, there is only click as opposed to braking/accelerating, where there are many. I'm hoping this is all part of the same issue and not isolated issues.
View 1 RepliesI have an 04 rx 330 with air suspension. The swaybar end links have just been replaced on the front and a rattling noise persists.
The noise happens over large and small bumps at high and low speeds at normal and low vehicle height. When the height is at "HI" the noise is louder and it feels as though the front end is shaking loose over bumps at 10 km/h+.
I took it in and was advised to replace the end links, they did so and returned it claiming the noise was gone. The air compressor and struts are in working condition.
I have done a search through the forum, not extensive... I was wondering which other components come loose/wear and cause a clunk/rattle/shudder noise.
Also, tires are new and at approx. 32-34 psi.
I drive a 2000 Celica GT 5 speed. I am having an issue with my 1ZZ-FE.
I am hearing a ticking/rattling noise from my engine around 2k-3k RPMS. Anything before or after that, the noise dies down. I could hear it from the interior of the car as well. I at first thought it was valve chatter. Someone said It could be a piston or rod. What parts will be needed? Worst case, ill just swap in a 03+ 1ZZ or go with a 2ZZ.
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i have a 96 toyota celica sx which makes a horrible noise when i start it, its almost like a high pitch rattling noise, usually goes away when it warms up but sometimes still making it accelerating, think the noise is coming from area which is in the photo, what it is?
View 7 RepliesOver the last couple of days, my 2009 Sonata V6 has developed what I best can describe as a rattling noise near the engine when I am accelerating the vehicle (noise changes based on throttle input). I only hear the noise with the car in drive, if I shift into Neutral or when I am in Park I don't hear the noise when I rev the engine.
View 6 RepliesMy 2009 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited make a rattling noise when accelerating. Only does it sometimes. Sounds like something is loose under vehicle. Does not make noise when in park and revving engine. Checked under Jeep and found nothing loose.
View 4 RepliesWhat is going wrong to gs 300 engine rattling noise from LH bank when accelerating?
View 9 RepliesI'm new to the VW family as a couple weeks ago I purchased a 2003 VR6 Jetta. So far I LOVE it and it's been by far my favorite car I've driven. About a week ago, I was visiting my parents back home (I'm a college student) and when I went to turn on my car to go back to school I received the alternator workshop message. I didn't want to take the risk so I took my sister's car back to school and my dad took my car into a local mechanic during the week.
Unfortunately, the mechanic we took the car too does not specialize in European cars (They're just a general mechanic/Ford dealership), but we didn't want to take the risk of driving a car with a potentially failing alternator to the closest VW mechanic (About 40 minutes away). The car was repaired and a new alternator added. All was going well, but I began to notice a slight "clunking" noise when first accelerating/lifting my foot off the brakes. I didn't think too much of it and it wasn't very loud nor severe. To me, it sounded like the interior plastic shifting when I moved.
Anyway, here I am a week later and I'm noticing a lot of noises that didn't exist before, including the clunk I just mentioned. I took a few audio recordings. (For the record, there is NO CEL or any dash lights currently on, thus why I'm not as concerned).
The first audio: [URL] ....
In this link, I'm driving the car around the parking lot in which I park my car here at school. It's mostly bumping gravel, but at the time of the recording I was driving very slow. You can hear a squeaking noise.
The second audio: [URL] ....
In this link, I'm revving the car while parked. Something I've noticed that it didn't used to do is rattle while idling ever so slightly (It's not audible in the recording), but in the recording you are able to hear a slight clunking noise.
I have about 72k miles on my Highlander, which we purchased certified through a dealer in May. At the time of purchase, we noted an intermittent rattling noise, but didn't think much of it. It has increased in frequency and in volume since that time. I have had it to the dealership four times now to have it fixed. They have replaced the heat shield on the exhaust, tightened my license plates and today replaced my catalytic converter (at no cost to me) Imagine my dismay upon driving home and again hearing the rattle. When they decided the rattle was related to the catalytic converter, they were essentially banging around my car with the handle of a hammer and trying to replicate the rattle...needless to say, I am a little concerned that the techs are unable to determine the root of the problem, much less fix it. It seems to be correlated to some degree with a certain RPM. It sounds as if something is loose somewhere, but that place is a mystery to at least four different techs (all of whom I have driven around so that they could hear the sound and who still cannot identify it).
View 2 RepliesThree days ago my Outback started making this grinding/rattling (hard to describe) noise when shifting and cruising at low speeds. Is this the clutch or the transmission? No trouble shifting though. I got rear-ended by a big Lexus SUV last week, but wouldn't think that would have anything to do with it. Just damaged the bumper a little.
View 1 RepliesSo I bought this 2007 used with 86K on the engine. After 2 days cats code went off and i had both replaced with brand new ones. Now my truck is making a rattling as i step on the gas at about 2500 rpms. Its sounds like metal in a can swirling around amd as i let off gas the sound stops. It happens often, also the other day in was pulling off and heard a grind for about 2 seconds then stopped never beard it again, it sounds like its coming from the rear passenger side. It sounds like a bearing. This is the noise.
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I've got a 2002 Toyota Camry with 96,000 miles on it. Car has been running fine for years but on a recent 250-mile drive I noticed a whirring noise (almost like the engine of a remote-control electric car). The noise is faint, but definitely new. I'm fairly sure it's coming from the under the hood, or at least from the front half of the car. No vibrations. The noise is only audible at highway speeds, and really only present when I'm accelerating (or on cruise control). It seems to get slightly worse if the car is climbing a hill.
Some things that have been worrying me:*I left the car in a friend's driveway all summer. Could that have anything to do with it? (There were no noticeable problems when I got back, which was months ago--when I came back after two months, I simply re-connected the battery and the car started on the first try).*I had a transmission fluid change about 2K miles ago. It was at a Jiffy Lube. They "flushed" the old fluid. They claimed they used the correct Toyota brand fluid. (I've since read that flushing the old fluid can be a bad idea for older cars.) Could this have something to do with it?*I just had my snow tires put on two weeks ago (and this is the first long drive I've done with the snow tires on). The guy who changed my tires took about 2.5 hours to do the job, saying "this is only his second week." The car is steering fine, and not drifting or anything, but could that mechanic have done something to the tires that is causing this highway-speed, acceleration-only whirring noise?
My 2007 Hyundai Elantra SE (Automatic, 69,400 miles) makes a grinding noise when I start to accelerate from 40 mph. I sometimes hear a noise that sounds like an airplane wheel being activated when I'm driving at lower speeds driving around town. Could this be the transmission? Who should I take the car to?
View 7 RepliesI've noticed, maybe a handful of times in the 5k miles I've owned the car, that the engine will rattle excessively for maybe 30 seconds or so on a drive. This only happens during high load/low speeds and I think after the engine has been off for at least about 10-15 minutes. It doesn't happen on start up, only after the car is warm, but hasn't been using the engine for a bit. I'm thinking this is fuel enrichment (really rough running) because the cat has cooled.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1996 Ford Explorer (4WD model). Approximately 4 months ago I had a new set of tires put on it, and in the process of replacing the tires the shop noticed that I had a bad ball joint and one of my wheel bearings was going bad. They said the ball joints were known for completely failing, but the wheel bearings usually didn't, so they recommended that the ball joint be replaced first. That is what I had them do. I haven't had the money to get the wheel bearing replaced yet. This past week it got worse to the point where I can hear it now.
At low speeds I can hear a grinding/rattling-type noise from the front drivers side (that's the side that has the bad wheel bearing). At higher speeds the grinding/rattling-type noise fades away due to road noise, but I can still hear a humming-type of noise that is a bit loader than normal - this noise just started a couple of weeks ago so I'm suspecting that this might also be related to the bad bearing.
I won't have the money to get this fixed for another 2 weeks. In order for me to have the money in 2 weeks I will need to continue working at my job 2 days a week. It's approximately 2 hours round-trip from my home to my job. Obviously with the bearing sounding significantly worse I don't want to drive it any more than I have to, but the only way I can get the money to fix it is to keep driving it back and forth to work.
Here's my question. What risks am I running by continuing to drive this? Am I running the risk of the wheel falling off while I'm driving down the freeway at 70 mph? Am I likely to experience other damaged parts in that area of the vehicle?
2007 Sonata 3.3. Crunching, clunking noise at low speeds, braking or accelerating away from stop lights. Noise disappears at speeds over 25-30 mph. Noise can be replicated by rocking car forward and backward while in park, with engine turned off. Rocking side to side does not reproduce noise. Bouncing car suspension at all four corners does not reproduce noise. Hood open, rocking forward and backwards, noise seems to be coming from behind engine, and with hand on engine motion can be felt. I'm thinking engine mount, but how can I get a good look at it to check?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Celica GT with about 140k miles on it and a manual tranny.
Over the last couple months, the clutch or transmission has been making a weird rattling sound when in gear. It's mostly while not accelerating, and it's not a consistent rattle - kinda like something is loose in there. It's not super loud, just barely and annoyingly noticeable. When the clutch is in and you just rev the engine there is no noise. Driving down the road if you put the clutch in and coast there is no noise.
I recently checked the transmission oil. Oil level was fine, but it was smelly as heck, so I replaced it. No bits or metal or anything in the oil.
The clutch in the car has never been replaced and is on its way out - I'm just wondering if its worth it to repair the car. I took it to a local Toyota shop and they thought the transmission needed replacement. This was the same shop that diagnosed my spun rod bearing as a valve issue, so I'm kinda skeptical
Just recently the front of of my car starts shaking violently when I reach speeds of about 57-60-mph. It also feels unstable when I make sharp turns. I've noticed my alignment has gotten worse since this issue has begun. Tire wear looks normal except for small indentation on side wall of front right tire.
View 1 RepliesOur '91's speedometer needle wobbles +/- 5mph at lower speeds, but evens out and becomes steady at higher speeds.
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