Celica :: 2003 Toyota Stalls When Outside Temp Is 90 Or Above
May 31, 2015
2003 Toyota Celica GT-5 speed. I live in South Florida and last summer, when the temp got above 90 and the car was driven for about an hour and half, it would act as if it were out of gas. After pulling over and waiting for about and hour, the car would start up and run fine for about another hour, and then the same thing-stalled. I had fuel filter cleaned, injectors cleaned, did not work. Next mechanic- said the gas cap was bad, replaced it-3 times! Did not work. 3rd Mechanic- Replace coil packs. That was in September. The car ran fine. Drove it to Denver, Pennsylvania-twice and various other road trips. Ran like a champ. Thought, great, its fixed. Didn't think much about it again until two weeks ago.
Was driving to PA and the temp spiked 90 in Virginia and here we go again. 4th Mechanic- replaced the catalytic converter $1,000.00 Assured me 100% that was the problem. Picked it up earlier this week. Drove from Virginia to Jacksonville- 8 hours, no problem until it got hot out and again it began to sputter. I nursed it to the side of the road, sat until dark and drove it 6 hours home in the dark at 80 mph and no problem. It's only when it's hot out and I'm driving further than an hour. I just dropped it off at Mechanic 5. I don't want to replace more parts and continue to have the same problem. Codes read gas cap problem?!?!?
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So I have been tying to find out what the Temp rating for a 7A-FE for so I know what thermostat to get. How impossible is it too find this info sometimes?
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I have a 2000 Celica GT and I suspect the coolant temp sensor has gone bad....the fans are not turning on and I'm not getting any hot air out of the heater.....where is the coolant temp sensor located on this thing?
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1990 Celica 2.2 liter, 5SFE manual trans car with 239k miles.The car occasionally stalls after it is warm and won't restart. When is is cold she fires right up as it does most of the time when she is warm. To restart he sprays starter fluid in the intake or waits until it cools down. Also as the car gets warm the idle decreases to around 650. Adjusted idle speed to 750 but no effect. The only code is 1-2, low or no RPM, measured the RPM sensor air gap and within spec, measured the sensor resistance and within spec. sensor wiring and connector looked good, measured the temp sensor and within spec, disconnected the EGR vacuum line and no effect. Problem occurs once or twice a week but at the most embarrassing place.
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My 1986 celica gts stalls only after the engine has been off for approx. 10 to 20 minutes. It starts fine, but stalls as soon as it starts, unless i keep my foot on the gas for about 5 to 10 seconds. After that it starts and runs fine at all other times. I've changed the coolant temp. sensor, but condition still exists.
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1994 celica GT 2.2L
Just happened last night, i was driving on the highway when i noticed my temp needle was reading about a 1/4 of an inch higher than normal. That's never happened before. It's always been rock steady right in the middle. I was doing about 80 miles an hour. i slowed down to about 65 and the needle went back to the middle. I sped up to 70 and the needle went back up again. So i slowed down again and it went back down.
Tonight i was on the highway again, but due to the freezing rain and hail, i was doing between 40 and 60. Tonight the Gauge never moved from the middle. It was steady all the way until i got on the off ramp at the light, Then it went up and came back down by itself. I didn't hear the fans come on. I went to a local parking lot to do some tests. I parked the car (gauge was in the middle), and reved the engine to raise the temperature. It went up and then came down. Fans did not come on. Strange. I them went back to my house. parked the car, put the hood up and tried to make the fans some on. Here's where it gets interesting...
while in my drive way, the needle goes up, both fans come on high speed, needle drops. I then tried to do it again. Reved the engine for a second, i hear both fans come on high speed, but the needle is in the middle. It did the same thing again with the needle in middle again.
There are no external leaks. engine oil is full. Both fans work, but on high. There is no debris covering the radiator. I replaced the thermostat around april 2011,( it was not a genuine toyota part and didn't have jiggle valve. is that ok? it's been fine all this time.) Timing belt and water pump have not been replaced (so i've been told).
Tomorrow i will check the coolant in the radiator, ignition timing, and check the radiator cap. What are the odds of it being the cooling fan switch or a relay? i only ask because it hasn't come on low speed since this happened. Will warm car up in drive way and see tomorrow.
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I have a 1993 Celica and replace the radiator about 2 years ago. Tonight I notice my temperature gauge going from the center up to the red, but then it would slowly come back down to the center. And this continue for about 30 minutes until I reach home. What this could be?
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I have a 1993 Celica GTS 2.2L manual trans. A hose blew on the way to work, got it towed home and repaired the hose. I also checked the Thermostat, it worked fine, replaced it anyways with a new one.
The problem is when it is under stress, in any gear, it will heat up past regular operating temp (all the way to red if left long enough) but as soon as I engage the clutch and put it in neutral, it drops back down to normal operating temp. It will never overheat at idle, only under stress.
I have checked the Radiator, done a flush, it seems to flow fine with no blockages. Also checked the rad cap, no issues. I have gotten the air bubbles out of the cooling system, that did not work either. The only other thing I can think it could be is a degrading water pump. It is still pushing coolant through, but not at a fast enough rate due to degraded blades??Or maybe I have missed something on the Radiator and it could be not cooling the water enough? By the way, this whole engine was re-built 42,000 kms ago, ran like a dream until this happened.
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I rebuilt the engine on my toyota celica. After putting everything back together there are a few bizarre symptoms I am hoping to get sorted out.
1) It only starts with starting fluid, but once it starts it will run continuously without dying.
2) The temperature gauge goes up relatively quickly, and also moves with the throttle. For example if it is as the 1/3 level and I apply throttle it will bump up. It continues to jump along with throttle play.
3) When I remove the coolant sender and/or sensor plugs, the gauge still reads the same (is this normal).
4) The fans don't turn on unless I remove the sender cable (the one with one wire and not two)
If I understand correctly the sensor with one wire is the sender and the sensor with two wires is the temp sensor. I am having a hell of a time determining the difference. The one with a single wire contact is plugged into the thermostate cover/pipe. The one with two wires is in the thermostat housing.
Did I fry the ECU somehow? What is going on?
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When I start my van first thing in the morning it starts fine when it reaches t2he normal operating temp on my gauges, it begins to stall and dies. Then after Restarting it once or twice it runs great the rest of the day.
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Well I have a 93 Explorer and when the air temp gets over 100 it stalls. It sounds like it starves for fuel. The fuel pump was replaced. A year or so. Ago but it sat. For a year I replaced the fuel filter.
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Coolant temps getting much higher than oil temps under load. Is there any problem that could cause this other than a bad temperature sensor? Reading temps with an Edge CTS 2 monitor. Think I'm going to hook up a mechanical gauge in the morning and see what it shows.
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I have a Suzuki Esteem on which I have recently had following work done from a suzuki dealer on their recommendation.
1) Throttle body repair and Cleaning.
2) Idle air control valve cleaning.
3) New fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs.
4) Engine tuning.
5) New battery.
6) New power steering belt.
PROBLEM: (Only when AC is OFF)
When my car reaches operating temperature the engine stalls out after three seconds at idle.
Suzuki dealer does not seem to know the reason behind this and they want to keep it for a few more days however i think they will just keep replacing parts one after another.
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95 ford f250 with 5.8l. I have currently replaced the battery, alternator, distributor, cap, rotor, icm, coil, plugs, wires, act sensor, ect sensor, fuel pump, fuel press regulator. I got it to start today by messing with timing at distributor it ran to operating temp and died. Would crank but not start.. So I replaced the act tensor today.. Now it still won't start... koeo test gives code 327... I am stumped and about to tow it away...
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'95...feels soft shifting, now won't go in reverse, shifter sometimes trouble with 1st also?
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My 1987 Toyota Celica ST will not seem to turn over. When it has the push button addition that takes the power from the battery straight to the seloniod it works. But when i set the starter back up to the ignition switch and set it up factory style it will not spin over. it sends the 12 volts needed to start it but yet will not turn it over.
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I would like to install headers on my 95 GT, but have never done this on any vehicle before. Is it just a matter of removing the old exhaust manifold, and reconnecting the new header? Any tricks, or surprises??? Also, any recommendations on brand, and or website to order from. I do not want to drop a lot of money, but do want to get at the very least a decent quality product. Also, can this be done without getting under the car? I can get under the front end for oil changes, etc., but do not have access to a lift at all.
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I recently purchased a 1996 Celica. The car looks amazing and drives well. On top of it's reliability, the vehicle is an absolute blast to drive!!!!! However, it seems to be burning oil. I was told to switch from 5w-30 oil to 10w. A thicker weight would work.
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It turns over but won't start. also makes a metallic sound it didn't do before while cranking.I changed battery a week ago and replaced air filter right before this started.Is it related or could it still be the starter even thou it's turning?
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recently purchased a toyota celica gt (96), a couple days ago i went to unlock the doors with the fob, and nothing happened. I then unlocked the doors with the key and the alarm went off! i managed to drive my car home, but the alarm was still going. I was told to disconnect the positive connection on the battery to stop the alarm going off through the night. the next day i replaced the battery in the fob, but every time i reconnect the positive the alarm goes off!
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I have a 1992 toyota celica st204 i got my dignosis and it come up with 12rpm signal cranking just wondering what it is and if it will cause my car to lose a bit of power .
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