Celica :: 2003 - Missing On First And Third Cylinders
Jul 5, 2014
My car runs fine when it's cold, but once it warms up during idle it will try to cut out and start missing very, very badly. CEL came on and it wouldn't shift into third gear, so had the codes checked, and it said cylinder 1 misfire, cylinder 2 misfire, random multiple misfire. So, changed the spark plugs and air filter, but it's still doing the same thing. Almost didn't make it home, but once I turned the air conditioner off, it ran much better. What should I check next? what could the problem be?
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According to the OBDII, I have a misfire on #3 & #4 cylinders. Im getting codes PO300, PO303, PO304 and PO171.
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2003 Ranger (4.0 L-2wd)...
Codes - random misfire and cylinder banks 1, 2, 3, reads out lean fuel
Will be checking out injectors and rail pressure, however, trouble shooting in general for this issue.
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I run a 1984 Celica at my local short track in the mini stock 4cyl division.
I had a lot of hesitation & tons of overheating (especially later in the season) on the track late last year. Parked the car for the winter & a few sponsorships later, decided to tear the motor down. New intake and exhaust manifolds new water pump and new head gasket.
Everything came in over the past few weeks & we began to work. We got the head off smoothly and got to the head gasket, which we thought may have been the cause of the overheating. Didn't look THAT bad, but definitely needed replacing. Got it off, wiped the block down to just take a look at it and a half dozen fractures/cracks going from the cylinders themselves to the ports for the coolant.
What engine can I put in this car. Will the motor mounts take any 22r/20r block? Its a 1984 Celica. I'm trying to get the car ready for the track in April and don't have a huge budget. I've found some blocks, 86 pickup 22r, 91 pickup 22re.
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When I start my car it seems like some of the cylinders are missing for like 5 seconds then runs fine. Sometimes its quite violent and this morning it stalled the first time I tried. The colder it is outside the worse this becomes.
The car is still under warranty, but you have to wait a week to get the car into the dealer here and a battery wouldn't be covered anyway. Here is what I have so far.
Bad battery : The car has 45k miles on it and as far as I know the battery is stock. Also, when I did the 40k service I seem to remember something about the battery on the invoice (I will look), but I was too busy worrying about the bald tires. I do generally leave my ipod plugged into my car stereo (which charges it) over night, so that is putting a drain on it. I am going to take it out of the car tonight and see if that makes a difference. I suppose I could take the battery to O'Reilly's and have them test it, but it seems like it would be in their best interest to lie.
Coolant temperature sensor : The car was recently in the shop and they said they found a small coolant leak and fixed it, maybe the sensor became damaged? Most reports I see about this suggest the car runs rough for much longer than mine and must be fed gas.
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My 06 Sonata runs very rough at start up when the car is cold. It appears that it is missing on several cylinders. This last for about 15 seconds and then the car runs fine. What could be causing this problem? No check engine light.
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My sister has a 1991 toyota celica GT ITS 5spd with the 2.2L in it which is the 2200 twin cam and all that. Last week her alternater went out. I replaced it and got the correct belt tension good volts going everything but now when she is going down the road doesn't matter what gear anywhere from 1800-2800 rpms her car jerks like its missing i checked the plugs and they are white which means its starving for fuel but when its cold its no problem drives perfect i was thinking replacing new plugs new wire distributor cap and fuel filter and seeing if that solves it...
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I have a 2003 F250 7.3L. I put new injectors in my truck four months ago and all of a sudden, I have 2 cylinders not working correctly, making the truck to run really badly. I sent the 2 injectors from the bad cylinders back for warranty and they replaced both of the injectors but nothing was wrong. I put them in and the truck still runs badly. I have a new fuel filter, new ICP, new CPS and glow plug relay. I cannot drive the truck, it smokes white at idle. I can unplug each injector at a time and cyclinder 5 does not change how the truck runs
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My 97 F-150 has 208,000 miles on the original engine. It started misfiring originally on just 2 cylinders, 1 and 8, after pulling the codes. I also get a P0420, catalyst system below threshhold bank code being thrown, but I think it is because of the misfires.
To remedy this I've done the following:
1. Spark plugs are relatively new and were changed completely a few months prior to issues.
2. Coil Packs were changed on both sides. Additionally, Cylinders 1 and 8 are on separate coil packs.
3. Spark Plug wires were changed
4. Did a resistance test on each fuel injector and they all passed.
None of this has worked. Am I missing something obvious? From my friends I've heard everything from my exhaust is plugged to I need to change all my injectors. Injectors are costly and I'm not even sure how to check if my exhaust is partially plugged, but it seemed to be flowing fine. Also, I pulled plug one since it was simple to get to and noticed it was slightly brown, like it had oil on it.
I got frustrated and continued driving my truck until the problem degenerated into severe misfiring and now I cannot get it started at all (Wrong move). I bought a car and haven't drove it since, and have it sitting behind my house. Now the cops want to tow it because the registration is has expired so I've decided to move it into my garage so I can work on it. Part of me wants to junk it, but I've put a lot of time, money, blood, sweat, tears, and curse words into this truck and am motivated to get it back up and running since the transmission and front suspension had been replaced recently.
What to do!?!?
1. Go to the Ford dealership and have them diagnose the issue and then try to fix it? (I have little confidence in them from the stories I've heard)
2. Pull the engine, tear it apart, and rebuild it?
3. Drop a used/rebuilt engine in?
4. Call me crazy and say junk the truck and buy a different one?
Currently leaning towards option 3...
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I started out with misfires in cylinders 1 and 7. Replaced all spark plugs (used autolites, i know i know). While replacing them I found that the boot on coil 8 was beat up with a chunk missing. It was working before I replaced plugs. After I changed everything out the 8th quit working completely and I still had a miss in cylinder 1.
Replaced coils on both of those and put a new wire connector on for 8th cylinder because it no longer clicked in correctly anymore. Truck runs infinitely better than it did prior to this, but according to OBD2 I still have misfires in 1 and 8.
Mostly in the 50-60mph range. What else could be causing this??? Injector maybe or is there some other sensor or timing problem? My dad has a compression test kit, but he lives several hours away so I can't just get to that right away.
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My aunt recently gave me her 02 f150 for free because it got flooded and she didnt want to fool with it. she said it ran great before it got flooded. I flushed everything. oil, gas, and tranny. I blew water out the cylinders and replaced the spark plugs. I took the fuel injectors out and cleaned and cycled some b12 threw them. The truck starts and gets spark to every cylinder and is only running on 3. I can pull 3 plug wires off and the idle does not change. Idk what it could be but dead cylinders. I am afraid I am going to have to find a new engine. I am going to do a compression check later this week when I have time. I am new to fords so if there is anything I should check...
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97 F150 4x4 XLT 5.4L... I had two cylinders misfiring, removed COP, injectors and plugs. Reinstalled all parts and reconnected all sensors. Now I am not getting fuel to the injectors. Double checked for disconnected wires and hoses, checked all fuses and relays, also the inertia switch. Fuel pump does not hum when key turned on. Tried hitting bottom of gas tank. My question is, before I pull the tank again, is there something under the hood I may be missing. It does get quite crowded at the rear of the motor.
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2001 7.3L 307,000 miles.... I have a couple of injectors pretty close to failing the buzz test.
I'm a shade tree mechanic - I've done the oil cooler, changed the radiator and belts etc how easy is the injector change? The bit that bothers me is the oil draining into the rear cylinders and ensuring that I don't hydraulic lock something. Do I need any special tools? Should I just take her to Diesel Innovations in Houston and let them get on with it ....
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2000 f450, truck has been running great and then all of a sudden starts running really rough. I check the oil and its dry! it was 9 quarts low! i checked the oil 2 weeks prior as i often do. i change the oil every 4500 miles and now this. i had driver side injectors done about 5 months ago. I take it to my mechanic and he said he thinks it has low compression on 2 cylinders but didn't do a compression check( not sure how he knows). He told me to run it until it pukes , keep putting oil in it with lucas oil additive. Then i will have to have the engine rebuilt. The truck only has 175000 miles! i thought these things were supposed to run forever! Does this seem right to you guys? I bought the truck a year and a half ago and have always kept up with it. has dp tuner but everything else is stock. Smoke comes out of the oil fill tube slowly but doesn't send puffs like a locomotive. mechanic said the turbo is fine.
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My wife and I received her father's 2002 F150 4.2 5 speed 2 wheel drive truck after his passing. He purchased new plug wires and wanted to replace them. So, this weekend I put in new plugs, plug wires, changed the air filter, and changed the oil and filter. Started up and ran really rough. Threw my code reader on after taking it around the block and found the following codes...
P0316 Misfire detected in first 1000 revs,
P0302 Cylinder 2 misfire,
P0305 Cylinder 5 misfire,
P0306 Cylinder 6 misfire.
New plugs were Motorcraft plugs, but had skinnier center compared to the ones that came out of truck.
Where do I start? What do I do? I am really confused as I have changed plugs and wires before and always had vehicle run better or same as before change.
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i have a 1999 F-150 2x4 witha 5.4 liter v-8 with 151,000 miles. Last week the truck began to run rough when i accelerated (ideled fine)and felt like it wasn't fireing on all cylinders and was puffing white smoke. A few minutes later the battery light came on and the truck lost all power and shut off. I replaced the battery and alternator and everything ran fine for a week. Now the issues have come back but i'm not sure the alternator and batter have gone bad again. What could be going on? Have the coils gone bad?
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Recently bought 98 f150 xlt 3 door 5speed 4x4 4.6l 230k miles for $1k was throwing misfire codes on 1,8,4,3 cylinders. Usually throws two cylinders at a time and never the same cylinders consecutively
Parts replaced:
coils...msd blaster
belden wire
motorcraft plugs...when i did these it ran perfect for a tank of fuel...18mpg no stumble
two cans seafoam through the tank
tank was dropped and drained
fuel filter
one can seafoam intake cleaner
3" exhaust from the Y pipe back
MAF cleaned
Previous owner said to have tested and cleaned injectors but I am not positive it was done... I don't think its mechanical because it wanders through the cylinders and when i changed the plugs it ran spot on. it gets worse the warmer the truck gets also.
injectors?
clogged small cats?
sensor?
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I have a 2003 ford ranger edge with the 3.0l engine. It started acting up today so i brought it to get checked because the check engine light came on. Three codes where pulled p0300, p0306, and p0313. They were multiple/random cylinders misfiring, cylinder 6 misfire, and first misfire at 1000 rpm. I have replaced the plugs and coil and still have the trouble.
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So the past few weeks my truck has been sputtering a lot. It seems to do it more so in low RPMS but when I lay on the throttle I didn't really notice it. I haven't had time to look into the issue but yesterday the issue got drastically worse and the CEL finally came on. Registered P0174 as well as a number of other codes including misfires on 7 of the 8 cylinders.
So far I have replaced the fuel filter. Spark plugs are only a few months old. I didnt think it would make sense for all of the coil packs to go out at once so I was thinking either a fuel issue or vacuum leak. Why would it only spit out P0174 (Banks 2) and not show P0171 (Banks 1) along with it? Fuel pump? Vacuum leak? Where should I start? 2002 F150 5.4L...
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I had an HPOP line burst and soak the engine compartment with oil. I replaced the line and degreased the engine and rinsed it off. I started the truck and let it idle for 15 minutes or so before driving it. On the way home right after a shift it started chugging and running terribly. The check engine light was on as well. I limped it the mile or so home and shut it off. I restarted it and it runs just fine. I checked the DTC's with Forscan and there were a bunch of things that were mostly related to the HPOP and the MAT sensor that was shredded when the line blew. I left the hood open to dry out today and I'm hoping it is just some water in a connector. Does that sound plausible?
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Recently bought a 2001. In the process of reading about this engine I discovered there is a some what regular breakdown of head gaskets causing water to leak into cylinders and oil pan, all of which is serious.
Given the vehicle is 12 years old and has 89K miles it appears it is in the age and range of where this leakage can occur. Any knowledgeable engine rebuilders that are familiar with this issue on the 4.2 have any comments???
1. Can this issue be avoided by replacing head gaskets now rather than waiting for future failure???
2. Are there new and improved head gaskets for this motor???
3. Does the problem occur on both heads gaskets?
4. Is that all that needs to be done or are there other seals that need replacement???
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