Celica :: 2003 GT - Starter Turns Over The Engine But It Does Not Fire
Mar 14, 2013
What might be going wrong with my 2003 Celica GT? The problem is that it infrequently is taking longer to start. The starter turns over the engine, but it does not fire. It continues for a considerably longer time to crank the engine, then finally it fires and starts. Could it be that the fuel pump is beginning to fail?
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My 2008 F150 5.4l SCrew wouldn't start this evening. The engine turns over and the starter engages, but it won't fire. Oddly enough the starter stays engaged after I take my hand off the ignition! I have to physically turn the key off for it to quit (didn't want to burn out the starter). The culprit may be the wet weather....it's been a lot milder today and we've had some freezing rain that turned to drizzle. My truck has only done this once before (last year I think). I eventually got it to start tho.
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So my sister has a 2000 Ranger 2.5L. I put in a new starter today for her today, and the second I re attach the battery terminal it turns over but wont fire.?
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I replaced my starter with a new one from car quest yesterday, it was starting to turn the engine over slow. I checked the batteries, they were fine, so went for a new starter. After installing, the new starter turned fast and fine, started the truck ok, but I noticed a fast clicking sound from under the dash. Ran it home and tried to start it up this morning, turns over fast, the clicking sound is still coming from under the dash, but the engine won't fire. Just turns over. When it's turning over the check engine (and all the other dash) lights flash.
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I have a 99 F450 bucket truck. I was up in the bucket when the engine died suddenly. It turns over but won't fire. I have no dash warning lights now either but everything else seems to be working. Lights, radio, annoying beeping sound from the key left in the ignition, etc. There are roughly 5 or 6 fuses in the panel to the lower left of the steering column that don't have power to them. Are they all supposed to have power when the ignition is on? I checked the fuse panel under the hood and all of the fuses that have 12V to them are good. There are a few small ones that don't have power to them but I don't think they do all the time.
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I just got a 1998 F150 5.4l 4x4 autotragic. Was sold to me as needing trans, wouldn't start. Tossed in a new starter and solenoid, now I can hear the the starter turn crank pulley turns maybe a quarter inch and when I let off the starter it goes back to the same spot.
Fear is motor is locked, but question (i don't know automatics) is there any way that a bad trans could keep a motor from turning over? Truck rolls in neutral or drive, pulled the drain plug no water just oil. Tempted to just buy a running 5.4 with trans but if I can avoid that I'd prefer to.
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Yesterday my truck began to give me some problems starting. The engine turns over just a couple of times then it sounds like the starter disengages and winds up. it took multiple attempts but it finally fired up. Does this sound like the starter or could it possibly be the starter relay?
2002 F350 CCLB Lariat 7.3
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No indication if related problems other than a cam position sensor CEL a few months ago. I've run VAGCOM a few times with no engine or electrical issues. I simply turn the key, engine turns, but no fire. Turn ignition off, try again and it fires.
2004 4.2l ... 148000 miles ...
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I have a 1996 Toyota Celica automatic transmission with just under 160k miles. It's always been a great car, very reliable and very few problems. A few days ago, it started having trouble starting (engine would turn over and not fire, usually starts after four or so tries) and then will bog down considerably while taking off from a stop until it shifts into second gear. No problem idling, not stalling.
Mechanic changed fuel filter, checked fuel pressure, plugs, cam and ignition timing, catalytic converter - all okay. Thinks it might be the distributor but would take a few hundred dollars worth of work to diagnose, plus whatever expense if it is the distributor, and obviously more if it is not. Might it be the distributor?
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I have a 2005 Grand AM SE v6, 3.4 that I had purchased used in 2008 with less than 23,000 miles. It is now at 52,000 miles. My troubles started less than a year after I bought it. In the last 4 years I have viewed just about every forum on the issues I am having, but I have not come across any with the same issues, there is usually a slight difference. Here are the details.
Car has hard starting problems randomly. Engine always turns over but does not always fire. Sometimes it starts right up, other times it takes several attempts. Totally random.
Car randomly shuts off while driving. Just cuts power, no warning..no sounds. No specific speed, totally random.
When starting, with the key in the "on" position, if the "service engine" light DOES come on..the car will start 100 percent of the time. If the "service engine" light does NOT come on, the car WILL NOT start 100% of the time. This is totally random also, but the car will ALWAYS eventually start.
Once the car starts, it runs fine..sometimes it shuts off , sometimes it doesn't. I've had the fuel pump pressure checked ( right up to specs). Replaced the Ignition Module. Replaced the Fuel pump Relay.
No codes come up at all. Both my mechanic and a friend of mine ( and my own observations from reading forums) lead us to believe it is a PCM issue..but another thought I have is possibly the connections (fusible links?)
Is it possible for me to take the PCM to have it tested and would a local mechanic be able to so that or will I have to contact a GM guy?
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I am trying to start up my '57 Plymouth belvedere after 5 years of sitting up. Engine turns over but not getting fire to turn on. has points...
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My 01 F150 5.4 with 208K miles is having a starting issue. Did it again today, turns over, but won't fire. Problem has occurred a couple times in the past, but started after just a couple time of trying. Today however it took many times of turning it over I would say 5 or 6 times before it started. Seems like it's turning over kind of fast as well (faster than normal). Runs fine after it starts.
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All of a sudden wouldn't start Saturday morning. Turns over fast. No fire. Waited a while and tried again and it started and ran fine. It did it again Saturday afternoon, so I changed the fuel filter. Gas from filter was very dirty. Still did it after filter change, so I replaced the fuel pump relay. Still did it twice on Sunday. Once it starts, it runs perfectly. Drove it 200 miles without a problem until I killed it. Then it wouldn't start.
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1998 F150 with 4.6L Windsor SOHC. I just completely rebuilt the engine including pistons, rings, timing chains (timing is good; compression @ 180 psi), 2 new coils, wires, plugs etc. and there's no fire at the plugs when I crank it. It turns over good but doesn't start. The fuel pump comes on and there's fuel up to the injectors. Before I disassembled the engine, it still ran good except for one piston. The 2 new coils, wires, plugs were replace before I rebuilt it. I was very thorough when re-installing the electrical etc... and triple checked it all after the engine not firing. Fuses are good. I know it's hard to trouble shoot without seeing the truck? The battery has been disconnected for months as I started a long time ago. Computer maybe?
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Camry 2002 LE (4 cyl Auto), 140K mi
This morning, for the first time I can recall, the car would not start right away. Had been sitting in the garage for 2+ days. Starter would crank just fine, but engine would not fire. No lites were left on overnite. Finally (after about 6+ attempts), engine started -- runs fine now.
Took it to TOY dealer. Their diagnosis: weak battery, alternator low output.Happy, had recently (6 mos) replaced battery after 4 years of use, so got a new battery N/C.TOY ran a charging system check and it shows "Alternator Condition: OK" (midway between shitty and great I recall).
Funny, but my first thought when it would not start was the fuel system (fuel pump) or dirty ignitors. I did ask my regular mechanic for an opinion, and he thinks it might indeed be the fuel pump -- perhaps a clogged filter.
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I run my 92 celica for a good 30 miles and check engine light comes on but after driving another 20-25 miles it turns off. I red the code it was the Egr (code 71) I took off egr valve and cleaned it out idk if its bad, how to test the valve?
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I have a 2001 Toyota Celica gt, and I had a accident on the front of the car. The only things needed to be replaced was the radiator and the Intake manifold.The car wasn't drivable for about 3 months, but within those 3 months I was able to work on replacing the radiator and the intake manifold ( which a crack on it). Now that I finished working on the car, the engine turns on but then it shuts off immediately. Everything was replace properly, I just don't understand.
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My friends cavalier stopped running about a week ago. It is a 98 with the 2.2 liter. When she turns the key you can hear the starter kick out but it wouldn't turn the engine. I figured it was the starter solenoid, but just to play it safe I took the starter off and had it tested. the starter passed. I put it back on but I left the flywheel cover off, I had her turn the key and you can see the flywheel turn a little bit, so I am pretty sure the starter is fine. I am not sure where to go from here, everything seems to be working fine but the engine just wont crank. I can turn the engine by hand so it doesn't seem like its stuck.
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The car has 175,000 miles on it and is having issues starting but only sometimes. The starter turns over but the engine doesn't catch. Usually if I open the hood, pretend to know what I'm doing, and wait a bit, it will start within 10 minutes or less (sometimes it takes a few tries.) I hear a click when the starter is going and the engine isn't catching, very much like the click I hear if I'm driving with the AC on and the AC needs to draw power. I've recently had a tune-up including new fuel filter, spark plugs and wires. The mechanic can't figure out what's wrong (doesn't seem to be the battery or the battery terminals). The car even started up FINE at 40 below. I can't really see a pattern to it.
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I have a 1995 Ford Ranger, manual shift. It always starts when cold, but sometimes -- very sporadic -- it will not start after I've gone somewhere. This has happened maybe 8 times over the past 18 months or so. Always, after sitting a while, it starts right up as though nothing happened. Several months ago I left it with a mechanic for an entire week, but he could never get it to act up. Of course.
In browsing through these discussions, I've seen the "starter/clutch interlock switch" mentioned. Here is my question, though. Would the starter still crank if that was the problem? or does that switch stop the starter from engaging?
When mine acts up, the starter cranks, the engine turns over ... it just acts like it's not getting fuel. Is that a starter/clutch interlock switch issue? Or something else?
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The engine turns and air blows out of the throttle body. My fuel pump and TPS is good. What else could it be?
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