Celica :: 2001 GTS Won't Crank All The Way Over And Smells Like Gas In Oil
May 24, 2015
I just had the engine rebuilt on my 2001 Toyota Celica GTS (2zz engine) also had a new crankshaft put in new battery, alternator, and starter. For the first 20 miles I had no issues. I get up the next day and my car won't crank all the way over and it smells like gas in in the oil/engine chamber what could possibly be wrong is there a way I can get it to start to take it to Toyota to have them check out.
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2001 Celica, battery dead after seeming to crank more slowly each time it was started during the day (wife was driving). I disconnected the battery to charge/test it, after reconnecting it started immediately but after 1-2 seconds engine dies. RPMs can be coaxed up to 3,000 in that time, but even though it seems to be running fine it shuts completely off, no coughing or sputtering. Won't start at all unless key is turned off and then back on, then it will do the same as described above.
It's giving a P1300 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 1 error code. Possible causes listed are:
- Ignition Coil No. 1 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil No. 1 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Ignition Coil No. 1
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Seems to me a lot like the last, the ECM.
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I am mostly a domestic car guy, but recently been working on some Toyotas for friends. The situation:
'95 Celica ST, 2.2 5 speed, 200K miles. Died when coming to a light. The car was towed to my friend's house. Battery was completely dead. Replaced battery and checked alternator and starter at Advanced Auto. Both checked good.
Car would not crank or even click the solenoid. Changed out both positive and negative cables. No start. Checked solenoid terminal, 0 volts. Replaced starter relay in fusebox. Still so volts at starter solenoid terminal. What else should I check other than the ignition switch? Not familiar with the wiring, how should I check?
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It's a 2000 Celica gts 6sp manual and it won't crank from its own battery. The alternator and battery are both fine. It cranks and drives fine when jumped from another car, but the dash lights wont even come on unless it's being jumped even after having the battery tested and freshly charged. Could a lost ground or a short cause this?
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Its a 2001 jetta vr6, 5 speed, electronic seats all leather with wood trim panels, and I am having quite the issue. When you turn on the car it has a rough idle around 600rpm but doesn't die out. it smokes like a banshee, white smoke. if you come back later and start it, no smoke until you give it gas. some times it doesn't smoke at all. misfire cyl 6 and 5, used to have 4 misfires but spark plugs did me justice, maf sensor low voltage output, bank 1 sensor 2 02 something or another, when i first got it, it would just chug and not smoke at all. the better its running, the more smokes it produces it seems. none of my coils have the rubber graumet around them anymore and all seem to be pretty shot regardless. I have no leaks underneath the car, coolant has no oil mixture in it all all, no visible leaks on the headgasket, and most of the time the smoke smells like gas, but its purely white. I am just wondering what could cause it, im trying to feel out more options before getting drunk and doing a headgasket. no oil loss, no coolant loss.
[URL] .....
video of the smoke.
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I have a 2002 celica after sitting for a hour or so car has very long crank....
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Installed a "new" battery in my celica (it was used but tested good) went to start up the car to see if it was good and the car started right up
Shut the car off cleaned up my throttle body a bit the went to start the car again it it would just crank and crank
I just put in a new fuel pump, so that cant be it, I have not checked for spark yet ( car is stuck at work )
I heard that the ignition coil likes to fail on these would that be causing this problem?
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We recently took our 2001 VW Jetta TDI in to a body shop to have a dent in our fender repaired that occurred the day after. The body shop we selected quoted us 5 days to repair the dent. Little did we know they'd also drop a toxic chemical bomb on the car's leather and vinyl interior as a courtesy.
When I picked the vehicle up I was greeted by the manager who told me the four-month-old, battery recently installed by one of Michigan's two trusted TDI specialists was dead (it wasn't). He told me I should just head over to the VW dealer to get it looked at (he said there had been an issue with the battery since I dropped it off a week earlier... when I questioned why he was just now telling me about this issue, he said he "just found out about it." Needless to say we got off on the wrong foot. I then noticed there were scuffs all along the bumper from the wax not being rubbed in properly and the red paint they'd sprayed on the repaired (and poorly reassembled) fender has also sprayed onto the black plastic below the bumper. But none of this matters compared to the significant loss of brain cells due to the chemical odor that my husband and I, as grad students, simply could not afford to lose.
As I was driving the vehicle the two miles back home, I noticed a strong smell that was not your typical "new/clean car" smell. While I got a little light headed, I didn't think much of it. Until the next day, after the car had been sitting in the sun, when I got in the vehicle to go grocery shopping and I noticed our beautiful, shiny black leather and vinyl had a white-ish residue that had dripped, smudged, smeared dried and crusted all over it. Further, I couldn't drive the car without the windows completely open without my eyes burning and throat getting sore and a severe headache.
I asked my husband to call the manager (he and I were already not on good terms). After convincing the manager the smell was definitely not from bike grease, the manager conceded that "MAYBE his new cleaning crew had used the wrong chemical when wiping down the interior of the car." Because the vinyl is now sticky and tacky, we were pretty sure it was a pretty strong solvent. The manager agreed to "go above and beyond and clean the car" himself - which he did attempt to do - and when I picked it up he did show me the solvent he thinks his cleaning crew used. Unfortunately, while much of the staining is now reduced, the smell is still very strong and is not only in the cabin but also very strongly permeated throughout the trunk.
It's been about a month and we've tried scattering baking soda throughout the trunk to no avail; I'm about to go to an auto parts store and see if there's anything else we can get to clean it out.
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I have a 1995 Celica GT, 5sfe engine, 5 speed manual. Front main crank seal appears to be leaking. I've replaced transaxles before but no timing chains or oil seals. Is the access from the wheel well and fairly straightforward?
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I have a 2001 Toyota Celica gt and the high beams will not come on. No high beams no indicator light on gauge cluster either. I looked at all the fuses on interior and engine bay and they all are fine. Replaced the dimmer switch and still no high beams. If the headlight relay was not working would both high and low beams both not work?
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Not sure what the deal is. I checked the fuses and they all look fine. I've changed out the bulbs and still nothing. Is there anything other than the fog lamp fuse by the shifter that could affect the fog lights? I've gone through every fuse (2 boxes under the hood and the one by the shifter) box and I just don't know where to go after those two easy things failed.
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Had to stop working on my car's cosmetics because the tail lights stopped working a few weeks ago. Radio, headlights, and brake lights all work.
10A fuse blows when I turn the headlights on. Tail relay is good. Bulbs and bulb sockets look good. Ground is good. I purchased an ECT2000 by Power Probe to diagnose the issue, but it's running me all over the car.
Mechanic couldn't find the issue. What should I try next?
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I have a 2001 Celica GT and the CEL just came on. Went to Autozone and had the code read (PO420) - they said it could be O2 sensor or bad catalytic converter. Is there any way to narrow it down before I just start buying parts to replace? Car has 140,000+ and runs great...surprisingly one of the few that doesn't seem to burn oil! PO420 diagnosis?
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I got a Toyota Celica 2001 recently from my dad and when I put the throttle all the way to the grown it barley speeds up as if it has some kind of throttle limiter so I can't speed everything else is fine it's a manual I just can't give it gas if I want to speed up really fast or race whatever the case is. How to remove the limiter or whatever else it is ?
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During the summer, my Celica runs just fine. Now, the temps are as low as the single digits outside (Fahrenheit). While I'm out driving, it can easily take 30 mile or more miles of driving before the engine finally warms up to the normal operating temperature, according to the dash gauge.
My mechanic is quoting me $135 or so to replace the thermostat. I haven't heard of thermostats getting stuck open and resulting in "under" heating conditions too often though.
Any thoughts on what the likely cause of this cold engine condition is? My gas mileage has also taken a good sized hit. Lost 5 mpg or so.
Can I just put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator for the winter and call it good?
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I need to remove the power steering pulley on a 2001 Toyota Celica GTS to replace the pulley shaft's seal. I've got several pullers, so I figure one of them will work. But, I'm concerned that when I pull it out it could damage whatever it messes with inside. Also, I'm going to try doing this with pump on the vehicle.
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I had an engine transplant (JDM) and am now getting P0300, P0301, P0302 and P0302 OBD2 codes with my Check Engine light. These are all cylinder misfire codes. A post on Google suggested these may be due to a leaking intake manifold gasket and suggested a replacement. My 2001 Celica GT is stalling out from standstill, idling roughly and hesitating.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Celica gt, and I had a accident on the front of the car. The only things needed to be replaced was the radiator and the Intake manifold.The car wasn't drivable for about 3 months, but within those 3 months I was able to work on replacing the radiator and the intake manifold ( which a crack on it). Now that I finished working on the car, the engine turns on but then it shuts off immediately. Everything was replace properly, I just don't understand.
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I just had the engine in my 2001 Toyota Celica replaced with a rebuild at 145,000 miles (the original engine was burning oil). It runs fine but now every time I fill the tank with gas and start the car it runs for about 15 seconds then dies. This goes on about four times then it runs fine. After the initial dying eposoide the car runs fine until i fill-up again (i usually fill-up when i have avout 1/4 tank left). Before the engine replacement I had no problem like this. The mechanic thought the problem was the fuel pump and replace it and the filter and inspected the tank for debris. I am still having the problem
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My 2001 Toyota Celica GT was put through a smog test and it was running rich on the idle only. It has been tagged a gross polluter and so i finally got a code reader to try to diagnose why. When i plugged in the code reader it kept stating no codes. It does not have a check engine light on and has not had a tune up for a while now. I am in real need of my car now more than ever.
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I have a 2001 Toyota celica GT auto. It has 120k miles. I seem to have an issue that really is not causing a problem except for annoyance. After coming to a stop the car seems to exhibit the signs of stalling (car idles rough, shakes a bit) however the car never stalls. Once I start driving all is well. Now I took it to the dealer and they replaced the Idle Air Control Valve which is under the throttle body. They said it was getting stuck and due to the higher mileage possible. It was replaced and the problem is still there. The funny thing is even though the car exhibits these stalling symptoms the idle does not drop below 500 rpm (both dealer and I have verified this).
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