I have a 2000 Toyota Celica GT-S.
When ever it is idleing and i hit the gas it bogs like its going to stall but then revs up. Difficult to get out of first because of the bog might stall it. My check engine light came on and it said rich fuel as well as oxygen sensor. Do the oxygen sensor would cause this because their are 2 and are expensive if I change it and turns out not to be the prob.
I have an 87 ranger, 2.3 4cyl. 2wd 5 speed. When I start up the truck after it sits for a few hours it will idle fine but then it starts to bog down and wants to stall but after about 5 mins its fine and runs like a champ. I don't know if its a sensor or what.
View 2 RepliesI am having an issue with a Ford f250, 5.4L, granted this problem existed before and after new A/C compressor, dryer, evaporator, vent door switch, blower motor resistor, new evac and recharge, good pressures no leaks.........Now my problem is the truck runs perfect but when the ac engages at idle the engine bogs down and it seems the clutch is constantly engaging and disengaging........AC blows cold, no issues there, does this sound like an IAC valve problem????
View 2 RepliesI own a 1996 Toyota Corolla Manuel Transmission. Im currently experiencing an i idling issue. When i first start the car everything is pretty much ok. Until it finally heats up and reaches normal temperature. After that it boggs really low almost wanting to stall out. When I'm driving i have no issues it drives smoothly and shifts fine. This is a list of everything i have done so far:
Vacuum line cleaning
Throttle body and EGR valve cleaning as well as checked for cracks (After I cleaned this it seemed to work a little)
Tune up (wires, plugs, cap, rotor,)Changed the fuel filter
Ran lucas fuel injector cleaner
Cleaned the IAC
Not really sure what else to do.
I just purchased 8/1/2012 a GEM of a garage kept 95 Celica Hatchback ST with 5 speed manual transmission.
The car was registered and driven until 8/2008 and garaged until 8/1/2012. The proud owner started it and drove it around the block so the car has not been completely idle for 4 years but very little miles driven. 165K miles on this baby. The car started right up and drove like a dream during my test drive and on the sweet drive home.
This morning 1st and 2nd gear acted like it was not getting enough gas (bogged down) and jerked as if I did not know how to drive a stick. But once it gets going is fine on 3rd, 4th and 5th gears. The car idles fine and accelerates fine when not in gear. I reached 80 on the interstate with no issues at all. Once at the stop light the low gear issues persist. Not clear as to what it could be.
I have 95 ranger 3.0L revs up over 2000rpm at startup then comes down slowly to a little over 1000... Changed the IAC valve still does it... When I let it warm up I unplug the IAC and idles normal and smooth about 750 RPM so I don't think it's a vac leak... What else could it be???
View 5 RepliesSo.... here's my issue. I have a 2001 supercrew 5.4 and runs great all day long, no problem starting or anything. After I have driven it for a while and turn the AC on it cools off very good then after about a 1/2hr. the truck tries to stall. It almost sounds like a vacuum leak and really bogs down. I can wait about 2hrs and then with the AC off the truck starts and drives like it should. I am steering to the IAC valve but would like to know if this is it.
View 9 RepliesAfter driving my car for about ~15 miles it bogs, throttle doesn't respond, if anything makes it worse. And then she dies. I've cleaned my MAF sensor and checked for spark, cleaned the connectors.
The only symptoms it seems to have is-when my A/C is on, the idle will jump from ~1000 RPMs to 700RPMs to 900RPMS etc. Its all over the place every few seconds.-bad gas mileage
My culprits right now are maybe -the fuel filter getting clogged up, -or the fuel pump overheating? (even with a full tank) -or my O2 sensors. Do O2's overheat? I feel like it could be that, given the horrible gas mileage I'm getting.
My girlfriend has a 03 celica gt with around 126k on it. most resent it has had a problem of high idle its sits anywhere from 1100rpm to 2000rpm. I replaced the the tps sensor figuring it was the problems it seemed to get more consistent with the new tps it now sits at 1100 but it may still be high I don't drive it a lot. And I forgot to mention no engine lite. I've herd its not common with toyota. I also looked for vacuum leaks as well but found nothing.
View 5 RepliesI just got a 87 celica for $500. Anyway it runs at 2000 rpm's for an idle, could a valve adjustment be a possible problem? Also where is the best place to find some performance parts for this thing? Would like cams, headers, pistons......?
View 6 RepliesMy wife has a 1998 Windstar 3.0
Prior to going out yesterday, I noticed that the van seemed kind of 'jumpy' when idling - the timing was a bit sticky and inconsistent and kept seeming to try and right itself. I stuck the accelerator down and it ran perfect when it was getting gas but started 'stagering' again when I took it off.
So my wife went out to walmart - a 30 min drive (we are in the country) - and all was good till she was turning the corner into the parking lot and the engine stalled. It was your standard stall - power steering went out but all other electrics kept going etc etc.
She sat there for a minute - put it in park - then fired it right back up again. After running into walmart, she just drove home as fast as possible to reduce the length of time it had to happen again.....
So while there are, Im sure, a plethora of possible issues - I was wondering about the IAC value? How could that be responsible for the parking lot though - doesn't it only act when the car is stationary?
The sort of thing was happening about 3 months ago, and I ran seafoam through the fuel - which seemed to work for a while.
I posted awhile back about my R not wanting to start. It will start, just not turn over right away, but it will start the first time. However, it feels like it's going to stall out because the revs don't climb very high at all (1k at best) when it usually goes just over 1k to start, then drops down to 5-600rpms.
Yesterday, after it sat in the hot sun for nearly 3 hours, it cranked but didn't start right away. It had started right up when I left my house to go to the gym, and I drove it 5 miles to the gym.
Then again, this morning, after it had been sitting outside all night, I went to start it and it just didn't sound right when it started, like maybe fuel wasn't getting to the engine.
The car has 31,500 miles on it, has had all recalls done, and the battery checked out last month. The battery was fine, so it's not the problem. I have been doing some research on this issue, and have come up with the following things to have the dealer check:
-fuel pump
-fuel pump relay
-coil packs
-crank position sensor
-fuel pump fuse
-fuel filter
-injectors
-alternator
-starter motor
-crank angle sensor
-cam sensor
-check all grounds
-check fuses
And to top it off, I just drove it down the road and the sunroof randomly opened on its own. I have never had that happen before! Do you think the two are related at all? I'm just wanting to make sure what to tell the dealer when I drop it off later this afternoon. I ran a vag-com scan last night and there were no electrical or engine fault codes found, so I don't know what is up with it.
What's going on with my '93 240. When I first go out to start my car in the morning, it starts up fine. After that, however, is when the trouble begins. If it's hot out, or if I've driven the car that day, there's a 50% I'll have trouble keeping the engine running. The engine will run rich, and chugs on startup, eventually stalling out after a few revolutions. During this time, the engine revs low, don't have a tac so I can't say how low, but definitely below idle.
If hold the accelerator to increase the RPM, the engine will run fine, but once I let off the gas, chances are it will stall out again. Eventually, after doing this a few times, something seems to catch the car as it begins to stall again, as in, just before the car is about to stall, the idle speed kicks up to normal. After that, the car runs fine.
I've had a code for the MAF for a long time. I tested the resistance across the meter, and it indicates the wire is still good. Even at that, I've replaced the MAF, but nothing has changed. Still have the same problem. What could be causing this?
I've just done an engine swap to my 2000 GTS Celica. The new engine seems to run nice and tight and smooth and everything but I can't seem to bring the idle down. It stays revving at about 2000 RPM and the check engine light is on. The engine is from Japan and only has 35,000 kms. on it.
View 14 RepliesMy brother was the original owner then passed it on to me. I then passed it on to my younger cousin about two years ago. The car is completely stock and has never been modified. Everything is OEM.Just a couple of weeks ago I was called by my cousin saying the car broke down on her .The problem is that we took it to a few mechanic shops but they still haven't fixed it ...
Problem with car: When pressing on the gas, the idle drops and then the car dies (a scary event that happened to us and on a main road). I do not wish to bring it to another fail mechanic shop.What the shops did: changed all fluids, distributor cap and plugs, new spark plugs, and replaced air intake piping with oem piping.
Why my car sometime start up really bad and even stall when the RPM drops down to 0.... This usually happens on a cold start up. What I should do?
View 4 RepliesI just bought a 2001 celica vvtl-i and am struggling with the throttle sensitivity. If I press it just a millimeter it revs to 3k and makes it hard to set off as I then lift off the throttle and stall it! It's a bit embarrassing in car parks. Is this normal or just mine? Also when dropping a gear with the windows shut I can hear a metallic rattling may be the exhaust but it's just after raising the clutch when shifting down a gear, not up though. Is there a way to alter the throttle? I can adjust the cable but that will just make it engage later and presumably still be as sensitive when it does.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 ranger, 3.0 and automatic trans
The truck runs fine until it is warm... runs great down highway... stopping at a light or stop sign is horrible, It will act like the (old term ) carb is flooding out.
I put it on a meter It said tps so I replaced it. then it said number 4 cyl no power so I put new plugs in.... I do not hear any vacuum leaks, and It runs like a top when cold.
I have a 2000 Silverado z71 5.3l my problem is intermittent bogging/backfiring after startup. The truck starts fine every time but it is when you put it in gear and hit the gas it stumbles and backfires through the intake for the first minute or so. If I baby the throttle it will eventually clear up and run fine after about a mile. It does this cold most of the time but often does it warm also. Fuel pressure is good it has been tuned up I cant find any intake leaks. After it clears up it seems to run fine but it is really irritating when I go to pull out of a gas station in traffic and I have to pull over and wait 30 to 60 seconds of idle then it runs normal.
View 1 RepliesMy 07 F150 has no power. I changed the timing chain, cam phasers, spark plugs and all 8 coils and still no power. Rough idle and bogs on acceleration.
View 3 RepliesI have recently bought a 2000 Grand Prix GTP sedan it has the 3.8 series 2 supercharged I believe it's the m90 supercharger when I bought the car I replaced tie rod ends gas tank fuel filter plugs ( AC Delco professionals) and plug wires ( dura last ) plastic elbows for coolant Water pump harmonic balancer and did and ac bypass because it had locked up on me and in doing so ruined the harmonic balancer I run nothing but 93 octane fuel but I'll get to the point when I had bought the car it sat for a year and It had no problems building boost that seemed evident anyways but not when I build boost there is a loss of power like a miss if I go to wot and hold it while it's doing this the SES light will come on and flash at me.
View 1 Replies