Celica :: 2000 Toyota - No Dash Lights And Fuel Gauge Level Indicators
Jun 9, 2010
On my 2000 toyota celica I have no dash lights Including no fuel gauge level indicators. I can not find any bad fuses unless there is another hidden fuse box somewhere...
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2007 - I went out to start it and every light imaginable turned on. Fuel gauge and all gear indicators were lit and blinking. Headlights work. Is this a battery problem or something more major? It is the middle of winter where I live. It won't start up at all.
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I just bought a 01 Intrigue that the dash lights don't work and the gas gauge stays at fuel when you start the car. It goes to empty when you shut it off.
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I noticed for the first time today on my 2012 v that the fuel gauge level seemed to fluctuate. I distinctly remember seeing 4 "pips" and then a bit later on, the gauge showed 5, and then went back to 4 again.
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In the last 24 hours my fuel level sensor is failing intermittently. After filling yesterday the fuel gauge went to zero and the MFD read "---" for any range or fuel calculations. Rebooted the car ( ) and it came back on, then off again. today it seems to be working, but I'm waiting for the other shoe to drop.
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I recently just bought a 2011 LX 570, when is the fuel light supposed to come on? I drove it till it said 15 miles to empty and still nothing. Just want to make sure it works.
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe Limited with 112000 miles on it, and its having some issues with the fuel gauge. It doesn't tell me the accurate gas level in tank.. it's either half-full or on empty. The check engine light is also on. What could be the problem? Is it an expensive fix?
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I have a 2002 Toyota Celica GT and I seem to be getting horrible gas mileage. I have replaced the Sending Unit. Also, I have attached a collage of photos that I was able to capture on my cell phone of what its doing to understand what could be the problem/issue.
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My daughter texted me today to inform me that her gas gauge indicator no longer reliably displays the fuel level. She's filled it up 3 times this week and the gauge still shows 1 bar. There are no other display anomalies: the speedo and other indicators appear to be normal. This 2008 has never had the combo meter changed and it's out of warranty since it's a salvage title.
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My car is still at the dealer after having the recall done because they can't get the fuel gauge to start working after they performed the recall. But the gauge had nothing to do with the recall you might say. Correct. But prior to the recall being done the gauge was acting funny. Going from full to empty to 3/4 back to the current level.
I told the dealer about this and they looked into it as they were doing the recall. Now they said they replaced the fuel level sender unit, certain wiring connections but to no avail they still can't get it to work. So my question is, what is the type of Gremlin that could be causing this?
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2008 hyundai santa fe. 106,000
Bought the car six months ago.Found out 2 weeks later we couldn't put gas in it. Dealership refused to fix it because we bought as is. So we managed to find one gas station in a 20 Mile radius that we could put gas in it.It takes around 10 minutes to put half a tank in. Shortly after that the gas gauge started to fluctuate from full to empty. And the check engine finally came on. Had the the check engine light checked.Fuel level sensor A was faulty. Took it to a local Goodyear in stead of the dealer ship. The sensors were 119.00 a piece and the labor was 145.00 to replace both. Had both replaced .Fuel gauge is working correctly now. But still having issue putting gas in car.
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Yaris 2006 Fuel Gauge. How much fuel is in the tank begins to blink when the last (lowest) level indicator box? According to the manufacturer's technical data for the reservoir has a volume of 42 l so that, if the indicator is divided into eight levels, should mean that at the start blinking in a tank remaining 42/8 = 5.25 l. Checked this? And how much is left when you start "blinking faster"?
Statement of kilometers that still can not get the remaining fuel in the tank, at least for me, unreliable and virtually useless - probably was chosen because of those who drive hundreds of miles, with nearly constant spending on long highway tours. And to me it happens about once a year. The data in the display are obviously obtained by dividing the remaining amount of fuel consumption average. It would be more useful to Yaris, you already know that the remaining amount of fuel, the display and print it over to my calculations, I knew I would Ceme - by his calculations, we are rarely used.
Perhaps the simplest way to what the Yaris is calculated back to that from which it started and get what we are interested in:
For example. If the display says that the average consumption of 5 l/100km and that the available fuel may even exceed 150 km should mean that the left in the tank for 5/100 x 150 = 7.5 liters.
It seems to me that this sentence correct, I see no other way he could predict how many kilometers could go with the remaining fuel.
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I have a 1996 Celica GT and I am having problems with the service reminder indicators within the instrument cluster panel. I recently had the car inspected in Pennsylvania and I was told that some of the service indicators were not working so they failed the cars inspection. Some of these indicators should illuminate when the ignition key is turned to the ACC or ON position(s). Currently, the only indicators that light up when the key is turned to the ACC or ON position are the SRS Airbag Warning light that stays lit for about six seconds, the BRAKE indicator, the low oil pressure warning light and the bing bing bing sound that my seatbelt is not fastened with no indicator light showing up in the instrument cluster. The CHECK ENGINE and the ABS lights do not light up either.
I removed the instrument cluster and found the CHECK ENGINE bulb was blown so I replaced the bulb and reinstalled the instrument cluster. Per the manual, I checked the 7.5 amp fuse labeled 'instrument panel lights' in position #22 per the diagram and found the fuse to be in good working order. I also checked the 10 amp fuse labeled 'gauges and meters' in position #32 per the diagram and found the fuse to be in good working order. No change to the status of the lights as described above. My daughter did assure me that these lights worked at some point over the past year (she was away at college).
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The backlight for my fuel level and oil pressure dash gauges are out. Would that require a simple bulb replacement or if there is something more difficult to replace, i.e. entire panel? The red needles illuminate, it's just the gauges themselves that are dark. The truck is my 05 Super Duty in the siggy.
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I've been having a very erratic fuel gauge issue as of about 2 months ago. My fuel level would register full, when in fact I knew it only had 1/2 a tank or so. Then 5 minutes later it would be pegged on full. Under a 1/2 tank the gauge would read any where from 1/2 to empty from 1 minute to the next. So last week I decided to drop my tank and take a look. I was thinking maybe my fuel sender was broken, maybe a loose wire in the tank, or even that my float had dropped off in to the tank.
After dropping the tank, I removed the PK-Up and sending unit and everything was intact. I placed my ohm meter on the sending unit and it checked out fine. So I took the Pk-up and rolled back up underneath the truck and plugged it back in. I had my son turn the key on and off while I moved the float to different levels in order that it would register. It registered empty, 1/4/, 1/2, 3/4 and full just fine as I moved the float to those levels. If you leave the key in the run position and move the float, it won't register or better said, the in cab gauge will not adjust with the movement.
You have to turn the key off move the float and hold it there, then have your assistant turn the key on and the gauge will show the position that you've moved and held it at. I simply removed the plastic cover from the sending unit, and sprayed it down real good with electrical contact cleaner. I didn't scrub the copper contact area at all.
I was concerned that scrubbing might remove more than I wanted to, and really mess things up. I attached an Ohm meter and checked resistance thru out the float travel. All checked out good and I reinstalled it. So now my fuel gauge is working as it should be. I did make a video while I ohmed the Sender Unit thru it's travel, but for some reason it won't load.
[URL] ....
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I have a 1992 toyota celica gt with the 2.2L motor. i need to know where is the fuel pressure regulator location? I keep looking and I can't find it.
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I have Toyota Camry 2005 LE, 180.000 miles ( first owner )
Few months back I noticed that my Camry is sputtering on low RPM below 2000 ( but never when engine is cold )
Car is driving perfect on the highway but in the city sputtering get very annoying when on low RPM and high gear.
My remedy for that is to press overdrive off button after this sputtering always goes away.
My transmission fluid level when HOT is 1 inch above HOT mark
And when in cold next ( morning ) label is still above HOT mark
Fluid level never goes down to COLD mark
What are the cause of the tran fluid be on same level and can sputtering be the symptom of it?
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05 RX330 AWD, which we use only 2-3 times a week. All of a sudden, the dash lights up with low tire pressure, ABS, and 2 other lights. What could that be?
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How to reset the trip gauge on the dash? I would like to reset it to figure out what kind of mileage I am getting. I am a new owner of a 2010 Prius III.
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I have a 90 toyota celica st. I was driving it the other day and it died on me while driving... twice! The second time was going down a steep hill and it was freaken scary for a minute as the breaks were not working, the car started again and I was able to stop! Anyway I know enough about cars that once your car starts it should not die. Could it be the alternator? It seems to start up just fine. I did notice though that when the car died on me both times I was taking a pretty sharp right turn. And when it died every thing blinked twice then out went everything. Im sure that it is a code for something but I do not have the owners manual as I was not the original owner. I just started it up today again and it makes a weird clicking noise before I even turn the key.
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I have a problem that has being going on with my 2000 toyota celica gt has been sputtering/jerking when going at a constant speed of about 60 mph. The problem is interment. I have changed everything from cam sensor when it came up on the scanner. Also changed the fuel filter and fuel pump. I changed the spark plugs. No luck the problem went away for about 2 weeks when I changed the fuel pump and filter but it came back. I got it scanned and the only code that comes up is P0420 which is a catalytic converter code. I have no clue where to go from here.
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