Celica :: 2000 - Left Lower Control Arm Removal
Aug 22, 2010
I am needing to replace a bent drivers side lower control arm, but it looks to me the 'front most' control arm to frame bolt is situated right next to the auto transmission! How can I snake this bolt out? Do I really have to raise the engine/tran up to clear this bolt on the control arm?
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Alright, after taking everything off and replacing all the joints/bushings, I am left with the control arm. (it hasn't been easy either)
I am at the control arm (Passenger side) and i got the rear bushing loose. I managed to brake the front one loose, with a lot of force, but it spins. I see in HMA that it has a bolt, or so it appears, but how on earth do you get to that?
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The cruise control switch on my 2000 Ranger just broke. It looks like you have to remove the airbag to access it. How is that accessed? It looks like there are 2 plugs on the back of the wheel that need to be removed.
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I did a search and I can't seem to find anything on how to remove the 2 side lower grills for fogs. I wanted to know if the whole bumper need to be removed?
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I have removed the 12mm bolt and disconnected the speed sensor. The problem is that the speed sensor will not come out of the transmission. Is there a pin or something else that needs to be done to remove this speed sensor?
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I have a 1987 Convertible Celica GT, with Manual Transmission. The car will not idle at lower RPM. I had someone look at it, and they have it where it will idle at 2000 RPM, but anything lower than that, and the engine will die when not giving it gas.
The engine accelerates great and runs great at any speed, but if you push in the clutch without giving it gas, it will die, unless the idle speed is cranked up like it is now. What this might be?
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What are some of the limits of the gt 1zz engines like boost and stock lower end limits? Are like new rods and Pistons ok to upgrade with the stock crank? What can the crank take hp wise. What are the engine common issues? Celica GT 00-06 ....
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I an taking out a 7afe engine (1.8L) from my 96 Celica ST to replace it. I have everything off the engine and all bolts removed from the engine to the transmission and there is no room to remove the engine. Does the transmission have to come out with the engine? I pulled them apart with what little room that there is and the clutch/pressure plate is stuck to the flywheel (the flywheel would clear by itself). This is a manual tranny.
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Our '91's speedometer needle wobbles +/- 5mph at lower speeds, but evens out and becomes steady at higher speeds.
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Mine managed to become partially dislodged by a piece of retread on the way home from WitW '13.
It's not flapping around or hitting the exhaust or anything, but I want to get it back in place. I tried to just jam it in there but it didn't want to stay. I'm thinking full removal and reinstall is my best option at this point.
I know one of the clips on the painted bumper section is cracked, so that may be some of the problem.
Hoping I can get it back in place and then use some plastic epoxy on the clip, trying not to glue the valance to the clip but repair the clip itself...
I've heard it can be a huge PITA to remove? To be fully clear here -- I'm just talking about the black plastic stuff around the exhaust. All of the painted parts are intact (other than a cracked clip that I can see on the lower plastic painted section).
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How to get the plastic exterior molding on the base of the doors off. I see 2 screws and thats it. Is there a trick to it? I need to replace the passenger side or epoxy one of the clips back on then remount it.
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I purchased a 1985 celica GTS, convertible, rear wheel drive. I am having a problem with the drivers side power window. I can raise and lower the window with a direct 12v battery hook up to either the lift motor or from the terminals that connect to the switch. The switch will lower the motor but not raise it. When activated to raise the window you can hear the motor enterguise but will not lift. I check the voltage at the switch and I am getting 12 volts. What should I check next?
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Trying to remove all the lower trim on the dashboard. Have everything but the lower right portion on the drivers side. The carbon trim on there seems to be tucked under the upper part of the dashboard itself and I can't remove it. I assume there is one final screw under there?
I can pop it loose a bit on the left corner but feel if I force that trim something is going to break.
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I know that to remove the lower knee panel under the steering wheel all that has to be done is to pull it off and the attachment snaps will pop free. However, How do I go about removal of the dash panel to the left of the steering wheel? This would be the narrow panel that also houses an ac vent, headlight and I believe it is the adjustable pedal control.
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Evertime I turn left the brake light, traction control and stability control lights come on and the car starts dinging. Mechanic says it could be front wheel bearings because they are tied to the ABS system??? But I have been seeing alot about wheel speed sensors?
Second, everytime I brake suddenly, a cloud of smoke comes from the front end and there is a burning oil smell. The oil is fine and no leaks. Again mechanic says it could be a cracked CV boot throwing grease?
Lastly everytime I put in reverse or when I lightly put pressure on the brakes when driving I get this noise like a humming (errrrrrr) noise. Its not the grinding/squealing noise you would get when brake pads needs replaced. I only have 60k miles on this.
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My 2000 celica is leaking engine oil from the rear of the motor on the driver side ( passenger side for the U.S). the oil drips are quite insignificant at the moment with only a small amount leaking on the garage floor, but a leak is a leak and i want it fixed. ive tried my hardest to find the source of the leak but i just cant squeeze my head in well enough to see where it is coming from as the engine bay with the 2zz motor is pretty tight! the car only has 116k KMS on the clock (72k MILES) and is regularly serviced so it doesn't make that a seal is on its way out already, but from the area that ive isolated it to, it looks like its the crank pulley or seal....
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I have to pull the left front axle shaft on my 95 250 4X4 to replace one of the axle ujoints. Before I get into this project, I'm going to replace all wheel bearings and related seals while I'm at it. Are there any seals that go into the differential that would be accessible after the axle is removed? Any quirks about getting it apart?
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I just got my car back from a smashed bumper replacement and it looks like my electrical systems were disconnected and reconnected during repairs. My radio presets were default and the clock was also reset. There is a red blinking light on the lower left panel, below the steering wheel, left side. Next to the VSC/TRAC on/off button. The manual has no indication what this light is. It blinks even when the car is turned off. I have attached a picture also.....
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Brought the Tig in for an oil change & while it was on the lift the tech noticed that the subject bushings are cracked/separating...Tig has about 43,400 mi...is this a common issue?
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my problem is this: my lower control arm bushing, front but (rear bushing) unfastens alright but i cannot get the bolt out no matter what i do. it just keeps spinning and will not come out the control arm has snapped itself so needs to be replaced. now is there a secret way (lol) to get this out iam about to become on nerve pills because of this lol. it just keeps turning on me and will not come out the other nut/bolt came out without any problems.
and from the manufactures book the actual gm book 375.00 paid for this darn book
anyway it says that these bolts have got to be placed back in from the inside (both of them) meaning they aren't supposed to be placed back one one way the the other way. a guy has told me its okay to be doing it the way where i place it back in to wiggle it back and forth to get it back in but the gm manual says to put both bolts back in the exact same way from inside the control arm out and the both nuts to be facing outside. and even when i took them both off the one was bolt end from the outside in and the other from the inside out? i have a 1997 3.1 front wheel drive. and i have only 1 lower control arm on each side
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Is it a big deal to remove the left rear interior door panel? The dealer replaced the door glass and, naturally, the tech didn't align the glass correctly. I'll align the glass myself.
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