I have a 2000 Celia gt with the 1.8l when I give it gas is bogs down an starts popping out the exhaust. I changed the plugs an I was told it could be the mass air flow sensor! What else could it be??
View 6 RepliesI have a well maintained '96 Celica 2.2 and for the first time in years it started acting up on the way home last night.
I got on the highway and was cruising at 65 and it started hesitating and popping and finally forced me to the side of the road. I was then able to start off again and reached about 60 all the way home but it was hesitating and not a smooth ride at all.
When I got to a red light at the off ramp, it died. I started it and it drove rough on local streets until I got home.
This morning I started it and it fired right up but then died immediately. Did that twice. Just tried again and it won't even start but just pops and makes noises like it's out of gas, even though 1/2 full.
Check Engine Light is on. I tried jumping E1 and TE1 but nothing happened.
I recently crashed my celica into a curb and had to replace the ball joint and the lower control arm on the right side. everything went well for a while but now there is a really loud creek/popping noise. it happens whenever i accelerate and come to a stop which led me to believe it was the cv axel going into the differential. but it makes the noise when the car is not running and i push down on the strut. i took it for a suspension inspection but they said they found nothing wrong with it.
View 1 RepliesOkay so I have the cigar lighter issue. The problem was before it wouldn't work. Went and bought a new one, and manually installed with limited knowledge of how they work. The cigar lighter came with a light on it to illuminate it, but this light never turbo off. It would make the lighter part get hot and red to light a cigar so I would think it worked.but my issues were the light staying on with the car off and the plug killing 2 gps's and an ipod plug in. seems like it's overpowered but I don't see why. when the ipod plug went out there was a popping noise. The fuse is still fine though. Also when I got the car the light was unplugged from the back side.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1.8l 1zzfe that has been rebuild because of the oil consumption problem. Right before it was rebuilt, it became extremely sluggish and was popping po300, po302, and po171 constantly. When the motor was torn down #2 cylinder had a burnt valve, rings were stuck, and carbon everywhere. All bearings were in spec, but they were still replaced. Pistons, rings, timing set, and plugs were replaced. I am still getting a sluggish acceleration, and popping codes po171, and po300. I have tested the injector resistance, seemed ok. Tested spark, seems ok. Tested the wiring harnesses, cleaned the maf, intake, and checked all of the vacuum lines. Not sure what to try next?
View 2 RepliesI replaced my exhaust manifold gasket, which also required replacing the cat and flange gaskets. For the first hour or so when I first fired up the engine, there was smoke coming from all three gaskets and i though "I'm such a loser. They are all leaking".
Today I looked and they don't seem to be doing that anymore. Was that just the gaskets curing or something? My fingers couldn't tell if anything was coming out of the seems. How do you definitively determine if there are any small leaks? Do I need IR goggles or something?
Also, looks like I need to replace the pipe between cat 1 and and what appears to be cat 2.
All I did was cut off the straight section of tailpipe and install a 2.5" inlet, 4" outlet exhaust tip. It sounds a bit deeper at idle and a little louder when I rev it, but when I let off the gas it pops pretty loud.
I remember hearing popping on decel on videos of trucks where aftermarket exhaust/mufflers were installed, but not just from a new tip.
My 2000 alero was WAY low on oil so I added a quart then drove for about 45 mins at 40 mph the car seemed fine. the following morning when I went to start it the car turned over but would not start when it finally started the engine knocks and it is putting out a lot of white exhaust. obviously I need to see a mechanic but what might be wrong. my neighbor said one of the cylinders isn't doing what ever it is supposed to do he said it passed a compression test but I don't know what that means...
View 3 RepliesSo I just wanted to ask 2 things.. Am I the only person who purposely shifts at certain rpms from 1st-2nd just to hear the burble/popping out of the exhaust.. I hold it around 3k and the shift and let off the gas and it's a Orchestra of amazing noises that are Oh so addicting. Secondly, are there any negatives to doing this... Or that sometimes I hear the loud thud/pop when slowing down but not every time... What is the true cause of these glorious noises.
View 8 RepliesOkay so with my old Accent I had the same Magnaflow exhaust I have now on the Elantra. Sounds identical with one exception; When I'd down shift with my Accent I'd get some popping coming from the exhaust. I get no such sound with my current set-up. Now I know some people don't like it but I do.
So my question is simple... Would removing the resonator (assuming the Elantra's have one) or doing something else to the exhaust give me back my wonderful popping sound?
Here is a video of my sonata exhaust running rich and "popping" when i ease off the gas when in P/N (haven't driven it enough to recreate it on the street in gear). I also included a teaser pic of my plasti dip project which is almost done and ready for me to enter the Ride Of The Year.
3.3 V6 Hyundai Sonata Rich Exhaust Popping Sound - YouTube : [URL] ....
For over 1 year I've had a problem with my 2001 Volvo S60 only giving a "click" when I attempt to start it. Often when I repeat multiple times, it DOES START, but more often than not, it doesn't (at least right away).
I've replaced the battery, starter/solenoid and starter relay. Twice I've had it to the local Volvo dealer, and both times the mechanics said the problem was associated with "corrosion" on the solenoid blade. Once the mechanic just "wiggled" the connector, and the other time the blade was sanded to remove potential oxide/corrosion.
After replacing the starter/solenoid, it STILL didn't start, so I replaced the wire leading from the fuse-box, thinking that "wiggling" the connector may have degraded the crimp on it.
Now the car won't start AT ALL. I've tested the line from the fuse down to the wire to the solenoid, and the ECM only now gives a "pulse", rather than turning ON while the ignition is turned to START. I'm thinking that some other input is telling the ECM to NOT CONTINUE CRANKING.
Long story, I'll try to make this short, 2000 E250 5.4L What would or could happen if the catalytic converter was removed from the exhaust system?
View 5 RepliesA mechanic reports a "hairline crack" in the exhaust manifold, and that things there (what things???) are all rusted and there might be problems removing manifold. Son's Internet research turns up lots of cases of Volvos with broken bolts from trying to remove rusted manifold. (Of course, you only hear about the bad ones.)
Son says he does not hear any noise (popping) and he does not smell any exhaust. Can we let it go? Is there a stickum repair we could try? (I was thinking of the high temperature cement I used on furnace flue metal duct, but I suspect it would not hold the pressure of the exhaust.)
I have problem in my VW Passat v6 2002. When insert car key to turn on start Engine, The screen shows an error message: "immobil activated" That means: Immobilizer is activated! And after that car is auto turn off then the Engine shut down in one second with flashing key light! As the fuel tank is empty..
But When I try to start again after an hour / two hours it's works!! This situation comes up if the car was parked from last night until the moment of start on in the afternoon!!! What is strange that this problem does not occur only at the time of day warm, Between 5 and 11 o'clock in the afternoon hot days!!! Because this problem is not never happen in the evening and night.
I go to the Workshop for dellership Car Agency. They re-programmable keys, But the problem is still continuing.
I have a 98 with the 4.2.The troubles started with popping a little through the exhaust ,bogging down and bucking,rough idle and had the two codes together that deal with having bad intake gaskets don't remember the codes offhand.
I also noticed every plug in the truck was wet and black however it didn't appear oil wet.I have changed the fuel filter,spark plugs,lower intake gaskets,plenum gasket ,injector o rings,checked injector ohms all were 16.5,new EGR gaskets,all bolts are torqued to specs
Now I have a no run condition, it will crank but not run. I heard a pop in the engine one time. I cranked till the battery went dead.I also noticed as I was calling it a day last night the radiator reservoir was empty. I don't know if somehow I got a hydro lock even though I put new intake gaskets in it or i have some other issue like timing or something. I don't know where to look next....
I have '98 VW JETTA Wolfsburg and EVERY time after hard rain (cold OR warm weather), the next day my car is unable to start without giving it gas while turning the key. It only starts after a few tries AND it "bucks" when I give it a bit of the gas pedal early on (within 5-10 minutes) into the drive. After that time, it drives great like always. Just had the fuel system "cleaned" at a local oil change conglomerate, which yielded tons of white smoke out of the tailpipe.
View 2 RepliesMy 2000 celica is leaking engine oil from the rear of the motor on the driver side ( passenger side for the U.S). the oil drips are quite insignificant at the moment with only a small amount leaking on the garage floor, but a leak is a leak and i want it fixed. ive tried my hardest to find the source of the leak but i just cant squeeze my head in well enough to see where it is coming from as the engine bay with the 2zz motor is pretty tight! the car only has 116k KMS on the clock (72k MILES) and is regularly serviced so it doesn't make that a seal is on its way out already, but from the area that ive isolated it to, it looks like its the crank pulley or seal....
View 3 RepliesI have a 1996 Chevy Cheyenne pickup with a fuel injected small block that has 50k miles. Earlier this summer the truck developed a problem where it is very hard to start when cold (after sitting overnight or after sitting for many hours on my flat driveway). When the engine is cold (say the first start of the day) I can only get it to start by giving small bursts of cranking power to the starter. That is, it won’t start if I hold the key in the cranking position but is more likely to start if I give it a short burst of cranking power (when I hold the key in “start” position) for a second or two.After the first start of the day, the engine runs fine and subsequent starts are quick and normal. The “Check Engine” light is not on and there are no trouble codes…. Other than hard starting there are no issues with engine performance.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 F350 with the triton 5.4. For the last week it has been running like crap. I just did my plugs about a month ago. I don't know if it's a miss fire or bad fuel or I don't know what it could be. It's a popping sound coming from my exhaust and when it happens I lose power. It happens off and on. One second it will run fine and normal and the next runs bad. What it could be. Today I just changed my fuel filter and added STP octane boost and fuel injector cleaner. Haven't seen a difference yet.
View 4 RepliesI am having a issue that my transmission is popping out of 4th gear on my Accent, particularly on inclines. Have had the transmission (gear) oil checked and filled (was low) and thought that may have been the issue. Got it back from the mechanic and less than an hour later is popped out of 4th 2 times in a 5 minute period. It has only popped out of 4th gear, has not happened from any other gear. I have no check engine light or any other 'idiot' lights that come on when it happens. (Other than replacing the clutch...which I hoping I don't have to do ) cause that's a trip to the mechanic again...
2000 Hyundai Accent
1.5L 5 speed manual
240k miles