Celica :: 1997 CEL Was On / OBD Reader Spit Out A Code
Jan 23, 2013
Me and the wife got in the ole '97 1.8. After may be 5 mins or so, I noticed the CEL was on.
I've only ever seen the CEL light on once, and it was b/c the gas cap was loose.
The car ran fine, nothing out of the ordinary. After getting home, I plugged in the dusty OBD reader thingy and it spit out a code, I can't remember. P401 or something like that. EGR emission low?
It appeared that my EGR valve is all cruddy with carbon deposits. So Is removal/cleaning terribly difficult? I'm thinking some carb cleaner and maybe a scraper would do the trick.
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2000 F150 V6 auto just bought it 140k. Check engine light on.. Code reader wont come on? has 2 lighter sockets in dash one on the left works right one dont? I hear one is inline with the code port? Checked 1 fuse #110? looked good...I don't have a manual so I"m lost.. or there are more fuses?
Also the speedo mileage sometimes will go blank? at start up then come back on ?? seems to be working even when blank? First I need to get the code reader port to put out..so i can see the codes....
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Truck had a rich on bank 2 code about a month ago, I cleared it and the service engine light stayed off for quite some time.
Last friday on the way home from work the truck started shaking badly right from idle, and at one point on the freeway the service engine started flashing. I couldn't pull over as I was on a bridge but once I dropped my speed the light stayed on but the flashing stopped.
I went to plug the truck in today and first shot it didn't communicate with the code reader at all, I talked to someone who told me that the cigerette lighter fuse is also the OBD port fuse, I pulled a fuse from somewhere else and plugged the reader in again. This time it started communicating with the truck but didn't display any codes while all the while the truck is miss firing and the service engine light is lit up on the dash.
One other weird thing: The fuse had an LED indicator to show that it is blown, when I push the cig lighter in the led gets a hell of a lot brighter, if there is always power drawn through the circuit shouldn't the LED be constantly bright all the time? I'm wondering if there is a short somewhere. Where to look next??
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I have a 2004 chevy silverado 1500 ext cab with a 5.3 L 4X4 , I tried to plug in a code reader and I'm not getting any readings . The reader is working , My question is can this be fixed by me or do I have to take my truck into the dealer?
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I am getting the code for the camshaft position sensor. Erase code, comes back immediately. I don't even think this car has a camshaft position sensor.. I guess the first step would be locating the little bugger. Crankshaft position sensor is new and seems to work fine. Car is running btw.
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I am trying to find out how many o2 sensors are suppose to be on my 2003 excursion? I am getting two codes on my OBD reader, an "o2" and an "o2 heater" code flashing...... I have replaced both the o2 sensors i found, both were at the exhaust manifolds.
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Ok, did a quick search, found nothing. Is there a way to get CEL codes without a reader on '01 F150? I know the way on 80's stuff, is there on newer stuff?
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I am told I am possibly having some engine misfires and I need to get my error codes read. The problem is I don't want to drive the car to an auto parts store to get read because the engine is really rough and bumpy. So what kind of code reader to get, OBD I, OBD II, CAN..etc??? I have a 2000 Buick Park Ave. I have a mechanic coming over tomorrow, and it seems he doesn't have a code reader off hand, so I gotta pick one up...
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I drove my truck 2 times the day it stopped running. The 3rd time I tried to leave it started moved about 2 ft, spit and sputtered and died. It had blown the fuel pump fuse. I changed it and checked the fuel shut -off in the cab, passenger side. It was not tripped. Tried to start it and as soon as I turned the key it blew the fuse again. I changed the fuse again and this time I changed the fuel relay and the switch in the cab. Turned the key and it blew the fuse right away. Went to AutoZone because they are close to the house described what it was doing to them and they said sounds like a short in the fuel pump.
I purchased a new pump put it in turned key blew the fuse, pump just clicked...I found this site and my son noticed a thread where it said wires under the cab are good for wearing through and grounding out. I looked and it did wear through one wire coating. We taped it up, put extra cover over it and now it does not blow any fuses. Fuel pump still just clicked. Took fuel pump back for an exchange.....same thing. Turns over but fuel pump will not pump fuel. What am I missing?......
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I was just driving and suddenly i had my CEL pop on. I went to pepboys to have them read the code for me and it Came up P 0420. I have been looking up the code and got a few emissions issues but not sure what one to do first. Any link with Main issues for CEL Codes? Or know what it could be?
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i have 1992 v6 olds cutlass ciera. it likes to spit and sputter sometimes. no matter if it's hot or cold, up a hill or on flat, slow or stop?
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I have a 2001 Celica GT and the CEL just came on. Went to Autozone and had the code read (PO420) - they said it could be O2 sensor or bad catalytic converter. Is there any way to narrow it down before I just start buying parts to replace? Car has 140,000+ and runs great...surprisingly one of the few that doesn't seem to burn oil! PO420 diagnosis?
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I have a 2000 acura tl with almost 200,000 miles on it. When I drive it for more than an hour, park to run errands then get back in after say 15 minutes the car will spit and sputter and die. In order to leave I have to hold my foot on the gas and break to force it to stay running. I run premium gas and in the winter I use seafoam additive with every fill up but it doesn't seem to work. This problem is more prevalent during the winter months; my mechanic is telling me the fix will cost 1200 for a full ecu reflash to fix it.
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1990 GMC with 4.3, 6 cylinder. He saw no spark so after checking on prices for things like rotor, cap, module, he just bought a rebuilt distributor. Installed it and it still will not start. If we run the coil wire to a plug, we get a spark. Check an individual plug, no spark. Yes, the rotor is installed ! I would think module, but rebuilt distributor came with one. Crank position sensor? I don't see one. Does a 90 year have one? How bout ECM? When it stopped working, he was driving it and it spit and sputtered and stopped. And, just in case....where is the ECM on this truck?
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On my 97... Last summer my compressor started to spit out metal shavings and when i took it to be recharged one of the hoses had a leak and there were shavings in the line. I replaced the compressor, that line that leaked and the can looking thing (accumulator?). I also got the orphase tube but I didnt know where it went and told the guys that were going to charge it to replace it. Well it was still sitting on the console and they didnt put the new one in. Well it worked fine last year but now its acting up. It will blow cold air when the motor is over 1000rpms but cuts out at random times and blows hot air. Im not sure if I need to get that orphase tube replaced and have it charged again or if its some vacuum issue. What I should do?
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I have a stock 1994 Celica GT with the 5sfe M/T .... I do have a headgasket leaking, and I am having another motor rebuilt and put in next month. I just need to nurse this one along for now. Right now it cranks but will not start. does not even fire up at all.
Code 12 - so I got another dizzy from the salvage yard, the pickup coils ohm out like they should as does the ignition coil. and I bought a brand new condenser for it as the old one tested bad. and when I first got the dizzy i put it in and it fired right up and ran for a couple days, then began doing it again. I went back to the salvage yard and grabbed another one that tested good, and when I put it in it fired up the first time but then shut off and has not started since.
But is it possible for the distributor to still be the problem even though the coils test ok? the shaft doesn't have any play in it, and the air gaps are within spec. I can barely get a .2mm between them. I also grabbed a couple of igniters while I was there. When I get it to run it may die when its cold and give me a code 14.
So from there I'm down to testing the distributor circuit, and the starter signal circuit, and the ECU. What is the best way to go about testing this to be Certain of what I need to go buy instead of just replacing stuff.
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I've recently rebuilt my toyota celica gt and the engine management light was on , I wiped it and keep getting the same code 52 which I think is the knock sensor car drives terrible under load , idles up and down a little , I've actually replaced the sensor just now and wiped the ecu but as soon as I rev it , bang it's back and I'm getting the same code 52.
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I have a 1997 Celica ST 1.8 liter. Over the past month, it has developed an issue with starting up. It takes several attempts to start up- sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Once its started up, it runs fine. It usually has no problems starting back up as long as I don't wait any longer than 8-12 hours. Once I get passed that mark, it gives me trouble all over again. Some days it won't start at all, regardless of how many times I try or how long I try for. Now going on day 3 of it not starting at all, turns over and sounds like it's trying, but just won't do it.
The second I stop or turn the key off, it makes a noise like it was going to try to start; however, never actually does. It's a very weird thing. I've talked to a ton of people and a few thought it had to be the crankshaft position sensor. But, I just don't think that's spot on. I've done quite a bit of research and personally think it's the cold start injector or something along those lines.
Another thing I just remembered.. I read that cold start injectors are usually on older cars only, not sure if that's true or not because I read a problem on a 2003 that was a cold start injector, which could have just been a site with bad info. But having a separate injector for "cold start" threw me off in the first place. And what I see on my car that I'm thinking is it, is solely based off a few diagrams and pictures I have seen.
Just tried to hand choke it, way closer to starting than it has been the last 3 days. Tried to give it a little gas, but still didn't start. Thought I had it a few times there. Also, noticed some oil sitting on below the engine, but on part of my car not the ground. To the left if I was standing looking under the hood. Between the bumper and the engine, closer to the engine.
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Got my 97 celica GT 5 speed, the transmission took a crap, pops out of 1st 3rd and 5th gear, grinds into 3rd when cold even before it pops out. first off I read somewhere that this could be just linkage bushings, but the transmission will pop out of gear in first, then will grind going back into 1st and same with 5th, which linkage bushings do I check? is it the ones on the selector shafts? also the trans has 250k on it, and it looks like the fluid hasn't been changed in 200k.
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I run my 92 celica for a good 30 miles and check engine light comes on but after driving another 20-25 miles it turns off. I red the code it was the Egr (code 71) I took off egr valve and cleaned it out idk if its bad, how to test the valve?
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I have a problem that has being going on with my 2000 toyota celica gt has been sputtering/jerking when going at a constant speed of about 60 mph. The problem is interment. I have changed everything from cam sensor when it came up on the scanner. Also changed the fuel filter and fuel pump. I changed the spark plugs. No luck the problem went away for about 2 weeks when I changed the fuel pump and filter but it came back. I got it scanned and the only code that comes up is P0420 which is a catalytic converter code. I have no clue where to go from here.
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