Celica :: 1996 Started Hesitating And Popping
Feb 2, 2014
I have a well maintained '96 Celica 2.2 and for the first time in years it started acting up on the way home last night.
I got on the highway and was cruising at 65 and it started hesitating and popping and finally forced me to the side of the road. I was then able to start off again and reached about 60 all the way home but it was hesitating and not a smooth ride at all.
When I got to a red light at the off ramp, it died. I started it and it drove rough on local streets until I got home.
This morning I started it and it fired right up but then died immediately. Did that twice. Just tried again and it won't even start but just pops and makes noises like it's out of gas, even though 1/2 full.
Check Engine Light is on. I tried jumping E1 and TE1 but nothing happened.
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I had an engine transplant (JDM) and am now getting P0300, P0301, P0302 and P0302 OBD2 codes with my Check Engine light. These are all cylinder misfire codes. A post on Google suggested these may be due to a leaking intake manifold gasket and suggested a replacement. My 2001 Celica GT is stalling out from standstill, idling roughly and hesitating.
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Ok my 2000 Toyota Celica GTS is having 2 very bad issues.
1st - It is hesitating very bad when doing "cold starts" and nearly dies when I turn the A/C on (engine code reads : Random/Multiple Misfires on all 4 cylinders)
2nd - I have to put in 1 pint of Anti Freeze every single WEEK! It is not leaking on the ground as far as i can tell too.
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Here are the facts about my problem:
- 1996 Park Avenue 3.8 V-6
- 104,000 miles
Problem: When it warms up it begins to hesitate (at all speeds) when the accellerator is pushed s-l-o-w-l-y. It bucks and acts like it is kicking in and out. A typical example is rolling down a flat stretch of road at 65 mph with the cruise on. Here comes a small hill. As the vehicle begins going up the hill the cruise automatically tries to accellerate the engine to compensate for the hill. It begins to buck hard. I put my foot on the accellerator and can accellerate through the bucking and it smooths out. A few more facts.
- Problem ONLY happens when it warms up. Typicall this may be as much as 10 miles down the road.
- When it gets fully warm it will hesitate taking off from a stop light. Again, just small short hesitations. Even putting your foot into the accellerator it will not totally smooth it out.
- I have replaced all of the ignition coils, and the ignition module below the coils.
- One other very strange deal. When it was screwing up on me really bad and I was replacing the coils and the modules, I revved it up out of frustration. When I got to 4,000 rmp it began to cycle in and out. Almost like a 'whaaa whaaa whaaa whaaa whaaa and won't go beyond 4,000 rpm.
- The diagnostic guy at Autozone told me it may be the a MAP sensor, the throttle body sensor and my uncle suggested the crank sensor.
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I has just filled up my tank (91 octane...the highest we have in Phx), and while in cruise, I noticed my car started hesitating a little. About 10 miles later, EPC light comes on (and another icon lit up that I never saw before), and I lost all power. Had to pull over. Restarted the car and everything's been fine since. Happened just a day ago. My car has just under 10k on it and I just had it serviced.
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My 1995 honda passport ran great until a couple of weeks ago. I moved to North Carolina, and it sat for a few days as I was unpacking. When I started it back up, sometimes when I hit the brake, the lights on the middle dash come on for a split second, then go off. Also, my winter and power drive buttons don't work (anymore). As of yesterday, the lights didn't come on when I hit the brake, but it started hesitating when I started to drive.
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I have an 04 MDX it has over 100k on it, and about the time it was approaching that milestone, the transmission started "hesitating" when shifting into overdrive.... then it began to try to shift into overdrive way to early driving in town.... and it felt like we were riding across rumble strips every time it would do this.....We have found out.... that if we do not move the transmission selector lever into the overdrive position, but leave it in D4 [thus manually avoiding the overdrive] it does just fine....
We just suffer in the gas mileage dept., but it does not feel like the transmission is going to fall out while riding in town....My question is; is there a way to disconnect or disable the overdrive so that no matter what gear someone puts it in, it will not try to shift into overdrive by itself.When I am driving it; it is not an issue, I remember to not use overdrive every time; but when the wife or the children drive, they sometimes forget, and I am afraid it is going to do real damage beyond low gas mileage......
I have heard that this is a common problem with this vehicle, and that replacing the transmission is a very short-lived solution, as the problem is design related and will eventually happen again.
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So i have a 2005 Sonata GLS and it has been giving me issues. A week or so ago, the 'check engine' came on so I took it to the shop to have it fix. Problem fix, no more light popping up. Now two days ago, the car all of a sudden started stalling and hesitating while I was driving. I kept pressing the gas and the car will accelerate to 40 before slowing down to 20 and the acceleration will then drop as well. I had a mechanic look at the issue and he said it was the throttle position sensor. He changed the sensor and its still acting up. He said to buy the carburetor cleaner and it worked fine for a hour until we drove it again. The problem is still not fix.
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I recently crashed my celica into a curb and had to replace the ball joint and the lower control arm on the right side. everything went well for a while but now there is a really loud creek/popping noise. it happens whenever i accelerate and come to a stop which led me to believe it was the cv axel going into the differential. but it makes the noise when the car is not running and i push down on the strut. i took it for a suspension inspection but they said they found nothing wrong with it.
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I have a 2000 Celia gt with the 1.8l when I give it gas is bogs down an starts popping out the exhaust. I changed the plugs an I was told it could be the mass air flow sensor! What else could it be??
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Since our weather has returned to the cold side......my truck has started bucking and hesitating at 45 mph with EOT @ 130 and ECT @ 140. I can gas on it and it will clear up/let off and it would start up again once it gets below 50 mph. Once the deltas reach 150+ it clears up completely. Its never done this until this week. FICM volts are steady @ 48V. What is causing this or what to look for?
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Okay so I have the cigar lighter issue. The problem was before it wouldn't work. Went and bought a new one, and manually installed with limited knowledge of how they work. The cigar lighter came with a light on it to illuminate it, but this light never turbo off. It would make the lighter part get hot and red to light a cigar so I would think it worked.but my issues were the light staying on with the car off and the plug killing 2 gps's and an ipod plug in. seems like it's overpowered but I don't see why. when the ipod plug went out there was a popping noise. The fuse is still fine though. Also when I got the car the light was unplugged from the back side.
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I have a 1.8l 1zzfe that has been rebuild because of the oil consumption problem. Right before it was rebuilt, it became extremely sluggish and was popping po300, po302, and po171 constantly. When the motor was torn down #2 cylinder had a burnt valve, rings were stuck, and carbon everywhere. All bearings were in spec, but they were still replaced. Pistons, rings, timing set, and plugs were replaced. I am still getting a sluggish acceleration, and popping codes po171, and po300. I have tested the injector resistance, seemed ok. Tested spark, seems ok. Tested the wiring harnesses, cleaned the maf, intake, and checked all of the vacuum lines. Not sure what to try next?
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I recently purchased a 1996 Celica. The car looks amazing and drives well. On top of it's reliability, the vehicle is an absolute blast to drive!!!!! However, it seems to be burning oil. I was told to switch from 5w-30 oil to 10w. A thicker weight would work.
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My 96 Metro for some reason is popping the 15 amp ignition fuse randomly. First time it happened I disconnected the alternator and replaced the fuse and it got me home. Pulled the alternator and had it tested and it tested fine. Put it back in and everything worked for about a month. It popped the fuse again while driving down the road. I disconnected the alternator again but this time the fuse still blew. I disconnected the coil replaced the fuse turned on the key and the fuse did not pop. I reconnected everything and it worked fine. Hasn't repeated itself in a week. I think there is a short somewhere. Just can't find it.
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recently purchased a toyota celica gt (96), a couple days ago i went to unlock the doors with the fob, and nothing happened. I then unlocked the doors with the key and the alarm went off! i managed to drive my car home, but the alarm was still going. I was told to disconnect the positive connection on the battery to stop the alarm going off through the night. the next day i replaced the battery in the fob, but every time i reconnect the positive the alarm goes off!
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This has the 2.2 engine with the ignition coil mounted on the firewall, not inside the distributor.
Original not start condition seemed to be fuel related because it tried to sputter on time after it died in the middle of the intersection.
Changed fuel filter, primed and no start.
Checked for spark at the plug wire using a solid wire and touching a ground - no spark on any cylinder.
Tested for voltage at the center distributor cap - have 12 volts - replaced distributor - no spark
Replace ignition coil and ignitor - no spark
The wires all test with the right ohms so I'm not sure what is left to replace.
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I bought the car a month ago and went to pick it up today and there was 3 inches of water in the left front and rear footwells. I drained the water from there but can still hear it sloshing around in the quarters. Probably the drain holes are clogged. Where are they and how do I get to them? Do the rocker moldings have to be removed?
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I have a 1996 Celica GT and I am having problems with the service reminder indicators within the instrument cluster panel. I recently had the car inspected in Pennsylvania and I was told that some of the service indicators were not working so they failed the cars inspection. Some of these indicators should illuminate when the ignition key is turned to the ACC or ON position(s). Currently, the only indicators that light up when the key is turned to the ACC or ON position are the SRS Airbag Warning light that stays lit for about six seconds, the BRAKE indicator, the low oil pressure warning light and the bing bing bing sound that my seatbelt is not fastened with no indicator light showing up in the instrument cluster. The CHECK ENGINE and the ABS lights do not light up either.
I removed the instrument cluster and found the CHECK ENGINE bulb was blown so I replaced the bulb and reinstalled the instrument cluster. Per the manual, I checked the 7.5 amp fuse labeled 'instrument panel lights' in position #22 per the diagram and found the fuse to be in good working order. I also checked the 10 amp fuse labeled 'gauges and meters' in position #32 per the diagram and found the fuse to be in good working order. No change to the status of the lights as described above. My daughter did assure me that these lights worked at some point over the past year (she was away at college).
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I just recently replaced the timing belt and water pump on my toyota celica 1996 st205 (5sfe engine) and now my car is overheating after roughly a 30-60 minute drive. the radiator seems to be overheating and boiling/forcing the reservoir tank out through the overflow hole. when refilling the coolant i had to use some water as the 5L bottle of 50/50 coolant i had wasn't enough. I cant see any leaks, i did see bubbles in the radiator with the cap off and engine running however i think that may be due to the reservoir tank being empty. I had never had this problem prior to the timing belt/water pump change.
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I recently was given a 96 Toyota Celica 1.8L Auto 7AFE and I have been trying to troubleshoot some problems.
It started a year ago when my brother drove it to work and then after work it would not start back up. It sat for a while and now its mine. Problem is I was not getting any spark at all a while back when we tested it. I thought maybe the distributor. The other day it happened to just randomly start after a year of not starting. It made a small pop in the cylinder then boom ran just great until it warmed up and proceeded to shut down, would not restart. Checked the spark and it was very weak (yellow) and just seemed to be a slow spark, not firing as fast as I would think. Today I put a new distributor with a new cap and rotor in and boom she fires up immediately. Let it warm up fully shut it down, restarts fine, shut it down again and now it will not restart. Last time I tested fuel was fine, seems as if I am getting an intermittent spark and usually starts when it cools off.
Not sure what to do now, where to look. The wires seem ok with no corrosion but I have only worked on the 2.2L and I am lost!
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